Small Stuff

Sometimes, yes sometimes I hat me for what I am doing to myself ...
 
... example needed?
 
The worm hook to extract cartridge remains ...
 
... already I glued a nice long spiral onto a stick and just then looked into the literature ...
 
... bloody mental cinema ...
 
... it is not one long spiral but two short opposite spirals, which makes sense for the purpose.
 
First soldering trial with the 0,3 mm copper wires went bad until I remembered that there is a protection around :-(
 
Once removed, results became better, but still quite breakable, but then realised, the spiraling method does not work ...
 
... okokokokokoko ...
 
... back to start, rethink and resolder ...
 

 
... but how to do the double helix?
 
Took a fitting drill with the right lead ...
 

 
... and carefully embedded the wire into the grooves.
 

 
The lead still being too high, respaned the opposite way against a 1 mm mandral, and carefully readjusted the lead.
 

 
And here we are, it finally worked ...
 

 
... even fits for the bore :-)
 

 
 
That is why I sometimes hate myself, took me days to work this out until it fitted ...
 
... so I got really time enough to hate myself ...
 
... deeply contrited ... 
 
...yours dafi

it's not the same periode the "jacinthe" has builded in 1817 in brest  so  100 years later and it was made in series
 
in list:the "iris","la jacinthe",etc....
Agrandir cette imageRéduire cette image Cliquez ici pour la voir à sa taille originale.

 
 
here is a picture of the "recouvrance" if it can help u!!

a really beautifull ship!
my "recouvrance" had made whith the plan of your but  build.............in 1990 with all the new technical constructions!
 
a litle jewel of small britain

I always do the same thing Stan. Sometimes, you just can motivate even examine the plan.. And it's great feeling!

The most difficult part to do the windows was to decide to begin. 3 templates with grooves were made. Windows are dry fit for now. Next part will be easier to do, the gallery.
I cut the legs of the scroll saw so I can use it while sitting and did  a wood adaptor to use it while standing up.

I started work on the ship which is going to be HMS Sophie from Master and Commander by Patric O-Brian. The hull is made from some fine grained softwood I had left over from a previous project, the bulwarks are made from card.
   The HMS Sophie changed paint schemes throughout the book so I chose the one that I could make with the paint that I had.









 
 
Lextin.

Looks like a fine scratch boat.
 
Bob

Par l'Ingénieur De La Morandière 1823 HISTORIQUE DES GOËLETTES & MONOGRAPHIE METHODE DE CONSTRUCTION DU MODELE
 
this is the original title on the books cover but I'm working with my "working edition" copied from the english libary edition - because I can't spreak french and only guess some vocabulary by my rest of latin from school.
 
Some months ago I borrowed the english edition from the libary and figured out there are more than five schooners awaiting the reader inside.  I decided to buy the book because it is a very economical way to built a hand full of ships by one book - due to the fact that I'm not wealthy. And so I buyed the french edition pre-owned on the antique market with all the five plan sheets inside for all that I cannot speak french at all! So I payed again for the interlibary loan to get english-languaged copy again - copying it to be able to read it at all. I searched out three possible model ships for myself to get more difficult projects "to keep the challange alive" - going foreward step by step. So I followed the Monfeld's way of growng complexity in the chose of the paragon.
I wrote to the Ancre publishers to get some more details about the sweaps for the boats and the oars for the aviso - because I decided to build her in a clam towed by boats.
 
This type of model will give the possibility to me to show her full rigging of all sails and studdingsails set in an spiral order (after MacGregor "The square rigged sailing ships"). The spiral is the trial to catch any wind from any direction. And to use this moment also to give an idea of the size of the schooner to the viewer by using 1/48 figures at the oars in boat and on the deck. (I made mility modelbuilding for many years and so I'm used to alter figures to get them to fit to the situation they are placed in.)  
"La Jacinthe" is an aviso schooner built for the use in the colonies. The small armarment of two 12 pounder carronades shows clearly the were not built wor the battle line. The were built and used as dispatch vessels for collecting information and having an eye on the trade traffic. The schooner belonged to the Anemone-Class and the ships were in duty till the 1860th - some of them were altered and got an encloses bulkwalk and a one part gun lid from the hulls side up to the middle of the port. A problem I'm dealing with in my article about the  "La Munite" in her appearence of 1833 ( http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4810-la-jacinthe-building-a-variation-further-sources/ ). A picture added below.
The shistership "La Topaze" doesn't had a topgallant sail and yard. She may have used the two triangeled sails instead.
 
The dimensions are given in the original enlisting from the drawing below. A very good model was to see on the woldchampionship in Rijeka 2012 winning a C1 silver medal by the skilled builder Slavian Narlev from Bulgaria.
 
So I'm going to tell something about her and my thoughts about my first scratch project - I'm going to catch as much information before my start as possible.
 
Here are the plans sheets - all are scaled to 1/48! The very best point for the very beginning greenhorn like me is the planking is shown plank for plank in the sections drawing. Where to glue to the formers and how thick the pear has to be. 
Best for me may be to put a first planking of solftwood (lime/linden) on bulkheads and than to sand till the blood is coming out under the nails... to be able to add the second pearplanking on a smooth surface.
 
So I start now to collect some information, ideas and perhaps warnuings from all of you - long time before starting the building. So I'll have a look towards my copies and asks some of the typical greenhorn questions.

Par l'Ingénieur De La Morandière 1823 HISTORIQUE DES GOËLETTES & MONOGRAPHIE METHODE DE CONSTRUCTION DU MODELE
 
this is the original title on the books cover but I'm working with my "working edition" copied from the english libary edition - because I can't spreak french and only guess some vocabulary by my rest of latin from school.
 
Some months ago I borrowed the english edition from the libary and figured out there are more than five schooners awaiting the reader inside.  I decided to buy the book because it is a very economical way to built a hand full of ships by one book - due to the fact that I'm not wealthy. And so I buyed the french edition pre-owned on the antique market with all the five plan sheets inside for all that I cannot speak french at all! So I payed again for the interlibary loan to get english-languaged copy again - copying it to be able to read it at all. I searched out three possible model ships for myself to get more difficult projects "to keep the challange alive" - going foreward step by step. So I followed the Monfeld's way of growng complexity in the chose of the paragon.
I wrote to the Ancre publishers to get some more details about the sweaps for the boats and the oars for the aviso - because I decided to build her in a clam towed by boats.
 
This type of model will give the possibility to me to show her full rigging of all sails and studdingsails set in an spiral order (after MacGregor "The square rigged sailing ships"). The spiral is the trial to catch any wind from any direction. And to use this moment also to give an idea of the size of the schooner to the viewer by using 1/48 figures at the oars in boat and on the deck. (I made mility modelbuilding for many years and so I'm used to alter figures to get them to fit to the situation they are placed in.)  
"La Jacinthe" is an aviso schooner built for the use in the colonies. The small armarment of two 12 pounder carronades shows clearly the were not built wor the battle line. The were built and used as dispatch vessels for collecting information and having an eye on the trade traffic. The schooner belonged to the Anemone-Class and the ships were in duty till the 1860th - some of them were altered and got an encloses bulkwalk and a one part gun lid from the hulls side up to the middle of the port. A problem I'm dealing with in my article about the  "La Munite" in her appearence of 1833 ( http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4810-la-jacinthe-building-a-variation-further-sources/ ). A picture added below.
The shistership "La Topaze" doesn't had a topgallant sail and yard. She may have used the two triangeled sails instead.
 
The dimensions are given in the original enlisting from the drawing below. A very good model was to see on the woldchampionship in Rijeka 2012 winning a C1 silver medal by the skilled builder Slavian Narlev from Bulgaria.
 
So I'm going to tell something about her and my thoughts about my first scratch project - I'm going to catch as much information before my start as possible.
 
Here are the plans sheets - all are scaled to 1/48! The very best point for the very beginning greenhorn like me is the planking is shown plank for plank in the sections drawing. Where to glue to the formers and how thick the pear has to be. 
Best for me may be to put a first planking of solftwood (lime/linden) on bulkheads and than to sand till the blood is coming out under the nails... to be able to add the second pearplanking on a smooth surface.
 
So I start now to collect some information, ideas and perhaps warnuings from all of you - long time before starting the building. So I'll have a look towards my copies and asks some of the typical greenhorn questions.

Par l'Ingénieur De La Morandière 1823 HISTORIQUE DES GOËLETTES & MONOGRAPHIE METHODE DE CONSTRUCTION DU MODELE
 
this is the original title on the books cover but I'm working with my "working edition" copied from the english libary edition - because I can't spreak french and only guess some vocabulary by my rest of latin from school.
 
Some months ago I borrowed the english edition from the libary and figured out there are more than five schooners awaiting the reader inside.  I decided to buy the book because it is a very economical way to built a hand full of ships by one book - due to the fact that I'm not wealthy. And so I buyed the french edition pre-owned on the antique market with all the five plan sheets inside for all that I cannot speak french at all! So I payed again for the interlibary loan to get english-languaged copy again - copying it to be able to read it at all. I searched out three possible model ships for myself to get more difficult projects "to keep the challange alive" - going foreward step by step. So I followed the Monfeld's way of growng complexity in the chose of the paragon.
I wrote to the Ancre publishers to get some more details about the sweaps for the boats and the oars for the aviso - because I decided to build her in a clam towed by boats.
 
This type of model will give the possibility to me to show her full rigging of all sails and studdingsails set in an spiral order (after MacGregor "The square rigged sailing ships"). The spiral is the trial to catch any wind from any direction. And to use this moment also to give an idea of the size of the schooner to the viewer by using 1/48 figures at the oars in boat and on the deck. (I made mility modelbuilding for many years and so I'm used to alter figures to get them to fit to the situation they are placed in.)  
"La Jacinthe" is an aviso schooner built for the use in the colonies. The small armarment of two 12 pounder carronades shows clearly the were not built wor the battle line. The were built and used as dispatch vessels for collecting information and having an eye on the trade traffic. The schooner belonged to the Anemone-Class and the ships were in duty till the 1860th - some of them were altered and got an encloses bulkwalk and a one part gun lid from the hulls side up to the middle of the port. A problem I'm dealing with in my article about the  "La Munite" in her appearence of 1833 ( http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4810-la-jacinthe-building-a-variation-further-sources/ ). A picture added below.
The shistership "La Topaze" doesn't had a topgallant sail and yard. She may have used the two triangeled sails instead.
 
The dimensions are given in the original enlisting from the drawing below. A very good model was to see on the woldchampionship in Rijeka 2012 winning a C1 silver medal by the skilled builder Slavian Narlev from Bulgaria.
 
So I'm going to tell something about her and my thoughts about my first scratch project - I'm going to catch as much information before my start as possible.
 
Here are the plans sheets - all are scaled to 1/48! The very best point for the very beginning greenhorn like me is the planking is shown plank for plank in the sections drawing. Where to glue to the formers and how thick the pear has to be. 
Best for me may be to put a first planking of solftwood (lime/linden) on bulkheads and than to sand till the blood is coming out under the nails... to be able to add the second pearplanking on a smooth surface.
 
So I start now to collect some information, ideas and perhaps warnuings from all of you - long time before starting the building. So I'll have a look towards my copies and asks some of the typical greenhorn questions.

Par l'Ingénieur De La Morandière 1823 HISTORIQUE DES GOËLETTES & MONOGRAPHIE METHODE DE CONSTRUCTION DU MODELE
 
this is the original title on the books cover but I'm working with my "working edition" copied from the english libary edition - because I can't spreak french and only guess some vocabulary by my rest of latin from school.
 
Some months ago I borrowed the english edition from the libary and figured out there are more than five schooners awaiting the reader inside.  I decided to buy the book because it is a very economical way to built a hand full of ships by one book - due to the fact that I'm not wealthy. And so I buyed the french edition pre-owned on the antique market with all the five plan sheets inside for all that I cannot speak french at all! So I payed again for the interlibary loan to get english-languaged copy again - copying it to be able to read it at all. I searched out three possible model ships for myself to get more difficult projects "to keep the challange alive" - going foreward step by step. So I followed the Monfeld's way of growng complexity in the chose of the paragon.
I wrote to the Ancre publishers to get some more details about the sweaps for the boats and the oars for the aviso - because I decided to build her in a clam towed by boats.
 
This type of model will give the possibility to me to show her full rigging of all sails and studdingsails set in an spiral order (after MacGregor "The square rigged sailing ships"). The spiral is the trial to catch any wind from any direction. And to use this moment also to give an idea of the size of the schooner to the viewer by using 1/48 figures at the oars in boat and on the deck. (I made mility modelbuilding for many years and so I'm used to alter figures to get them to fit to the situation they are placed in.)  
"La Jacinthe" is an aviso schooner built for the use in the colonies. The small armarment of two 12 pounder carronades shows clearly the were not built wor the battle line. The were built and used as dispatch vessels for collecting information and having an eye on the trade traffic. The schooner belonged to the Anemone-Class and the ships were in duty till the 1860th - some of them were altered and got an encloses bulkwalk and a one part gun lid from the hulls side up to the middle of the port. A problem I'm dealing with in my article about the  "La Munite" in her appearence of 1833 ( http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4810-la-jacinthe-building-a-variation-further-sources/ ). A picture added below.
The shistership "La Topaze" doesn't had a topgallant sail and yard. She may have used the two triangeled sails instead.
 
The dimensions are given in the original enlisting from the drawing below. A very good model was to see on the woldchampionship in Rijeka 2012 winning a C1 silver medal by the skilled builder Slavian Narlev from Bulgaria.
 
So I'm going to tell something about her and my thoughts about my first scratch project - I'm going to catch as much information before my start as possible.
 
Here are the plans sheets - all are scaled to 1/48! The very best point for the very beginning greenhorn like me is the planking is shown plank for plank in the sections drawing. Where to glue to the formers and how thick the pear has to be. 
Best for me may be to put a first planking of solftwood (lime/linden) on bulkheads and than to sand till the blood is coming out under the nails... to be able to add the second pearplanking on a smooth surface.
 
So I start now to collect some information, ideas and perhaps warnuings from all of you - long time before starting the building. So I'll have a look towards my copies and asks some of the typical greenhorn questions.

Hey there Stan ! 
 
I'm planning to build this babe in future. But I've to finish 2 more before it.. During the time I'll bie watching you with an interest! 
 
Cheers, Bugra. 

More progress this time with the other side of the hull continuing to cut out the gun ports using my usual needle file set, i use a cutting action working down between the lines till i get to the line at the bottom, but making sure its square, then i have added the bulwark/gun port posts to hold the top rail.
I have also shaped the rear cabin window casting and undercoated it to bring out the detail, incase i use it, also i have cleaned up the front keel section and adjust for - figurehead etc...
 
Here's some more pics, and back to color as requested.
 
 
C.

Because they don't know it is the end of the world.

Stan,
 
Cannon did not have sights, the gunner aimed ”along the line of the metal”; when the target hove in view over the muzzle on the up roll, the cannon was discharged.
Because the carronade tapered towards the muzzle, this would put the shot about five degrees high, as opposed to a long cannon where the muzzle swell, the increased diameter at the muzzle, would put the shot only .5-1 degrees high. Even at the short ranges involved, this was partly the reason for the carronade's reputation for inaccuracy, and that’s why some carronades had a foresight on the muzzle or on the second reinforce.
”Around 1779 the tangent sight, similar in principle to the common rifle sight, was introduced but some years elapsed before it was universally adopted. Lord Nelson said he was prepared to try the new sight but was not very enthusiastic over it, because, he said, when he attacked he 'closed' with the enemy and sights were unnecessary.” W.L. Ruffell, "The Carronade"
Here are some photos of a gun lock you might find useful:
http://www.ima-usa.com/original-british-naval-cannon-flintlock-ignition-system-circa-1790.html
Per

Hello dear friends,
thank you for your nice comments and kind words, I appreciate them very much, and I'm glad you like my work.
Today I show the continuation of to the preparation of the door hinge.
I hope you enjoy the pictures.

 

 

Dear finds finding a drawing of a carronade I Can add some interstin features here for everybody how beliefs in targeting by special equipment as an intersind addition to a model ship:
 
Can anybody add intormation about the "diopter sight" and the "cap lock mechanism" to us?
 
Johann's article (picture No4) has some information - http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1029-la-cr%C3%A9ole-by-archjofo-scale-148-french-corvette-of-1827-scratch-build/%C2'> - perhaps he can help!

Thanks Russ...I snuck away for a bit and got the bow blocks carved but am done for the night for sure....shhhh ;-)
 
Edited to add pictures....OK so I couldn't resist at least finishing the bow blocks and final sanding...See you all after Christmas.
 

 

Hy Wayne!
 
As I have the same kit in the shelf I look here highly interested! Thanks for sharing! Looks well done and I'll use the mind-work done in here. Thanks for this to all the others, too.

A few odds and ends
 
Rudder coat and pendants.
 
I usually make rudder coats out of micro-porus tape as it has a sort of canvas finish to it and has the added advantage of a sticky back.
Rudder coats are a sort of bell shape in plan but cutting a pattern for a particular ship is a matter of trial and error.
 
There should be an element of ‘bag’ in the coat to allow free movement of the rudder
 
This is difficult to achieve without padding out the interior, I use a little cotton wool off a cotton bud for this purpose.
After this it is just a matter of teasing it into shape around the transom and rudder.

The canvas was tarred to waterproof it as much as possible and I have represented this with a black grey finish.

 
The Rudder pendants
 
Evidence is that even smallish vessels like Pickle would have had some system for retaining the rudder after all loss of rudder was no small matter.
I could not find any detailed information exactly how the pendants and chains would have been fitted on Pickle; similar smallish vessels are shown with the pendants taken up over the transom and secured to cleats on the inside. This method would foul the stern gunports in the case of Pickle.

I fitted chains to eyebolts secured in the rudder and to eyebolts in the lower transom, and contented myself with this arrangement for the present.
 
Anchor buoys
 
These too are an essential part of a ships equipment, they need to be clearly seen on the water, and the standard size is 54”x 30” with something in excess of 100’ of line.(475mm)
 
Smaller vessels such as Pickle would have had a smaller version and I scaled mine down to 36” x 20”
I made an egg shaped core from the cone shaped tips of two cheap bic prop pencils and planked these with styrene strip.
 
With the addition of eyebolts either end and 0.25mm line to form the slings and hoops and the job’s done.

I don’t normally adhere to scale lengths of line but in this case I have measured out 18 fathoms of line (scale of course) to coil on the shrouds.

 

 

Nearly there
 
 

The final bits of Standing Rigging
 
Now that the stun’sl booms have been sorted I can rig the Topmast Backstays and Main T’gallant stay.
 

Jotika suggest 0.25mm line for the backstays, but I consider they should be the same thickness as the Topmast shrouds, so I have gone with 0.5mm line. The tackle lanyards are of 0.25mm line as suggested.
 
Note:
The kit instructions suggest that the Fore T’gallant stay and Main T’gallant stay be fitted before the Topmast backstays.
If this is done the backstays will have to be fitted insitu, with more difficulty in getting a neat seizing and with attendant tired arms.
 
It’s much easier to form the backstay eye splice off the model and slip it over the masthead before fitting the T’gallant stays.
A bit of work in rigging these backstays, they end with a double block thro’ which a tackle is rove from a single block with hook that is attached to the backstay plate before belaying on bulwark cleats.
 
A lot quicker to write it than do it.
 

Attaching the blocks to the ends of the stays is an exercise in frustration, the same method has to be applied as with deadeyes, but without the nice groove around the block they take every opportunity to escape the noose of the stay.
 

 

Now the backstay tackles and Fore Gaff Vangs are in place there is even less room to swing a 19’ Launch, just about get the Jolly boat over the side without fouling the rigging.
 

All the loose tackles have now been belayed at the foot of the Fore mast.
 

 

The black lines attached to the cleats at the mast foot are temporary, to hold down the Crossjack yard against the pull of the lifts until the Topsail sheets are rigged.
 
One of the penalties of not pinning the yards is that they flop about until stabilised by the opposing forces of the completed rigging.
 

The Crossjack yard lifts are seen here rolled on the yard; I won’t fit them until I have the sheet blocks fitted so that I can balance the two.
 

 
The next phase will see the rigging completed.
 
B.E.

That looks really great!

Oh yes you're right, Ron: >>my woodworking skills have developed from none to "making good progress".<<

This brings us to the final stage of the build in the first folder. This section shows the start of the weathering process of the hull and the addition of the barnacles to the hull.

The next phase of the build, some more top side detail added.
 

 
Started the out hull planking. The first problem was the 2nd plank strips were not in the AL kit, so I had to order a new set from CMB.
 

 
The were no clear instructions or picture on how this bit should look, I don't think I got it right but with a bit more work I got to a workable solution!.
 

 
It took time and effort with the next section