Stuntflyer
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Molding strip under friezes and some interior details completed. The red paint is much smoother than it appears here. I applied 4 coats thinned just a little bit with water. Used 1/64" and 1/32" shims to get the floor spacing as close to the plan as I could. The front platform required a lot of sanding and fitting to place it low enough thereby making room for the risers which I have yet to work on.
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David and Chuck, thanks! much appreciated. Chuck, you said in the Longboat Instruction Manual ". . take your time and treat each plank as a small milestone", which I think is great advice. I am trying to do this with each step regardless of how simple it may seem.
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First two friezes finished. Used Krylon Workable Fixatif 1306 to protect them and 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive. If you happen to get some of the adhesive on the out side there is a great product called UnStik (see below) that will easily remove any excess without harming the frieze or the planking. I used it for many years when I was in the picture frame business. You can even use it on glossy photos.
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Thanks Ryland!
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Got the cap rail sanded and shaped today. Average width is around 0.100 inch except where it flares slightly at the bow.
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Decided to fix the shear plank by redoing the planking once more. I realize that I could have left things as they where but I need planking experience anyway. After sanding the hull with 400 sandpaper to a near sheen I applied the stain, 1 part Golden Oak to 3 Parts Natural and a coat of Wipe-On-Poly. After removing the bulkhead centers I thinned the bulkhead tops to 3/64". 3/64" + 1/32" plank + 1/64" overhang will give a 3/32" cap rail. I stained the hull inside as well. I then added the cap rail which is now ready for sanding.
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Thanks! That explains it perfectly.
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If the cap rail width is 3/32" can the depth of the bulkhead at its upper most point be slightly under 3/32" or should its edge line up with the edge of the cap rail?. Hope this makes more sense.
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Hello Chuck, Can the bulkheads be slightly recessed where they meet the cap rail or are they supposed to be flush with the cap rail edge? Thanks, Mike
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Hello Chuck, Are the sheave holes for the ball truck the same 69 or 70 drill you recommended for the mast?
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Thanks, I see what you are saying.
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Looking at Model Shipways period ships 19th century, are there any in particular that have larger parts like dead eyes, blocks, canons, etc? I have read somewhere were some ships are easier to build than others because of this.
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Dremel sounds like a good way to go. Perhaps a little bulky and hard to get close to the hull when drilling so I ordered this from Ebay. Dremel 225-01 36" Flexible Flex Shaft Rotary Tool Attachment. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370943910461&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160
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Mike, I'm getting ready to treenail the Longboat. Did you drill the treenail holes by hand or use power? I have bits from Drill City and they tend to screw in if I try doing it by hand.
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Chuck, I would like to treenail the hull and paint below the waterline. After the Wipe-On-Poly Should I apply primer before applying the Badger acrylic water base Antique White? Do you think the treenails would be visible under the paint? Mike
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Mike, add one more "well done!" from me. I did some tests with stain and found that lightly applying the stain onto the basswood using gauze, as suggested, works quite well. Before staining I finish sanded the wood with 400 TRI-MITE sandpaper. The trick to getting the stain on evenly (at least for me) was to candle the test pieces, making sure that the wood was sanded consistent in sheen thereby showing no low spots. Hope this helps. Mike
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Drilling Sheave Holes For Masts
Stuntflyer replied to Stuntflyer's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Q A, That's just what I was looking for. I will pick up the bench block and centre drill. I'm sure that Russ's way would work too but I don't trust myself doing it that way. Thanks! -
Drilling Sheave Holes For Masts
Stuntflyer replied to Stuntflyer's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Wow, some very impressive tools you got there. Well, I'm no machinist, that's for sure. However, using the suggestions above, I have come up with an idea that I think will work. I have started on it but won't finish until I get back from vacation. I will put up a few pics then. -
Hello, using a drill press, is there a good way to center and hold dowels for drilling small sheave holes. Thanks, Mike
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Chuck, What size drill would you recommend for drilling the sheave holes into the mast? Thanks, Mike
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Thanks Mike, I just finished reading your Pinnace build log. Very nice work!
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Mark, I have found through some tests I have made that basswood looks better if I use a lighter stain. It's not as blotchy. See. . .http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4930-18th-century-longboat-by-stuntflyer-mike-model-shipways/. . post #12. So, if this is true, I would like to find out if other woods suitable for planking the hull would take a darker stain better while having the flexibility of or similar to basswwod for edge bending, etc. Also, I will look into using sanding sealer as a prep. Jaager, I will look into this too. So many different ways of doing things. Thanks!
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Sam, Great advice, I will keep that in mind when I start the staining process. Andy, One reason why I picked the Longboat was that it had both planking and rigging. I wanted to see if I could build it without making a mess of things. The planking was very challenging and I expect the same thing when I do the rigging. So, for sure, my next build will take rigging into the equation.
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Having stained a few small test pieces(roughly sanded)I noticed that using a 50/50 mix of Minwax Golden Oak and Natural produced some patchy spots whether I used the Minwax Pre-Stain or not. I decided to compare the 50/50 mix with a mix of 1 part Golden Oak to 3 Parts Natural like Ryland Craze did on his build. I Pre-Stained the sample and waited an hour before applying the stains. The picture shows the untreated(roughly sanded)wood of the same color tone above the stained sample. The 1 to 3 mix on the left and the 50/50 mix on the right. I appears that using a lighter stain on basswood gives a better result. However, what I found was sanding the wood very smooth with 400 sandpaper before applying the stain gives good results whether using a light or dark stain.
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I'm not familiar with using sanding sealer first. I plan on using minwax colors, Golden Oak and Natural mix. I have the Minwax Pre-Stain which some say will help the stain go on more evenly across the surface once it is applied.
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