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Stuntflyer

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Everything posted by Stuntflyer

  1. Stuntflyer
    Hello Wes, Great to have you back. I might not be ready to take on a build like the Connie but I have been patiently awaiting your return to this excellent build log. Welcome back, Mike
  2. Stuntflyer
    Sure Mike, here it is. . . http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7971-us-brig-syren-by-stuntflyer-mike-model-shipways/
  3. Stuntflyer
    My next build, the US Brig Syren, should arrive sometime this week. There will be some interesting challenges ahead for sure. Again, thank you all for your support and taking the time to visit and comment on my first build. Mike
  4. Stuntflyer
    Great, I will contact Lee Valley next week. Mike
  5. Stuntflyer
    SpyGlass>>> Well, that's an interesting approach with a nice result
  6. Stuntflyer
    Druxey>>> I'm certainly willing to try. What would be a good brand of chisel? As of now I don't have any. Jud>>> I will give that a try
  7. Stuntflyer
    Jim, I don't think that I could get really clean joints doing it by hand. I would think there must be a way to jig this for manual work. A half-lap looks simple but getting it right is another thing. Mike
  8. Stuntflyer
    Now that I'm looking at it I don't think it will work. The strip wood would have to be held 90 degrees for an end cut. Mike
  9. Stuntflyer
    I hadn't thought about a router. I do have this. I don't know what kind of bit I would use though. Mike
  10. Stuntflyer
    Is there an accurate way to cut half-lap joints for things like deck furniture without having to use a table saw? I would like to use a manual jig setup if possible. Thanks, Mike
  11. Stuntflyer
    Thanks Kurt Mike
  12. Stuntflyer
    Hello, Does anyone know what these Model Shipways' Syren colors, hull/spar black and bright red would be in either Model Masters, Floquil or any other good quality acrylic paint that is still available? I realize that floquil is no longer in business but some colors are still available online. Thanks, Mike
  13. Stuntflyer
    Hi Gary, I'm about to start the Fair American by MS myself very soon. Your doing a really nice job on her. Your log is very informative and I have enjoyed reading it as well. Regards, Mike
  14. Stuntflyer
    My finished Longboat, a very rewarding and humbling experience. A big thank you to everyone for all your support over the past eight months. You have kept me going when I was seriously in doubt. I know that this wonderful group of people here on MSW will help me to move forward and I look forward to sharing thoughts and ideas with other members in the future. Now, if I could only decide on what to build next?
  15. Stuntflyer
    Thank you very much guys! It's been an amazing journey so far. David B., All the paints used were thinned with water. I did the red with Badger water based acrylic and a brush. Trying to spray this paint did nothing more than clog the airbrush. Brushing it on wasn't so great either. If you try and sand between coats, it tends to ball up and subsequent coats tend to bead on the surface of the previous coat. The black as well as the tan (for the belaying pins) were done with Winsor & Newton acrylic and a brush. The quality of the W&N paint is worth every penny and has none of the negative traits of the Badger paint. I will try to spray the W&N paint on the next build. All of the paint colors are over coated with Testors spray Dullcoat. The red looked very uneven until I used the Dullcoat which does an amazing job of evening out the color tone. The Dullcoat is useful in other ways as well. For example, I used CA to adhere the chainplates to the hull which leaves a tiny amount of shiny CA around the pin where the chainplates are attached. I lightly sanded the CA with the corner piece of #320 sandpaper to dull and partially remove the excess CA. A light spray of Dullcoat completely masked the area so that it blends perfectly with the rest of the hull. The "jib sail outhaul" kept moving along the cap rail and I was sure that any type of glue on the line or cap rail would show. After positioning the line, a light spray of Dullcoat adhered the line to the cap rail with no trace of it and no discoloration of the line.
  16. Stuntflyer
    Having completed the rigging it's on to the oars, anchor and stand to complete the model.
  17. Stuntflyer
    Chuck, I call the company that makes G-S HYPO cement and they say that it won't melt anything and is safe to use on nylon thread. Mike
  18. Stuntflyer
    Thanks Andy!
  19. Stuntflyer
    Thanks for reminding me. To be safe, I won't use the G-S glue on the MS line. After the Longboat is completed, unless there is some good reason to use nylon line, I'll use something else. Among other things, making coils out of this stuff is not fun. Mike
  20. Stuntflyer
    I haven't had a chance to try other PVA glues other than what I have been using which is Elmers Carpenter Wood Glue (thinned substantially). It definitely changes the color of the tan line to a darker tone and I think it takes away from the natural look of the line by giving it a smeared look. You can see this in the photo comparison below as well as other photos that I have posted on this page. Though not shown here, I have noticed that it leaves a whitish residue on black line. The photo below is test sample showing 3 different glues against a natural sample for comparison. I think that the best result comes from the G-S HYPO Cement. Yes, it's a little gooey and sticky, yet it appears to preserve the natural color and look of the line.
  21. Stuntflyer
    "Running Backstay" assembly completed. Almost! As per the instructions, the chainplates were made from 28 gauge wire, pendents from .018 black rigging line and running backstays from .018 tan. Additionally, the hooks were made from 28 gauge wire and the blocks are 1/8". I just need to add some rope coils.
  22. Stuntflyer
    Pops, Thanks for the kind words from one newbie to another. The "running backstays" are next and I will have to be careful not to break anything while making and fitting all the parts. Could be challenging as I am still training myself to move more slowly. I already broke the mast once. We'll see!
  23. Stuntflyer
    For the shrouds I used the kit supplied .021 black line and seized it with .012 tan line. White glue though better than CA still darkens the tan color more than I would like.
  24. Stuntflyer
    Thanks!
  25. Stuntflyer
    I understand what you are saying about the seizing. The kit supplied .021 rope is black not tan. Should I use this for the shrouds? The tan is .012.

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