Stuntflyer
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Hello, I am building the 18th Century Longboat http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4930-18th-century-longboat-by-stuntflyer-mike-model-shipways/page-3 Can anyone show me how to strop a block with an eye on the bottom of the block and seized to the boom on top of the block as in the photo below. The photo is from Chucks log. Thanks very much, Mike
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Thanks Rich, much appreciated. Your Constitution looks awesome! Do you have photos here of the Aluminum long boat?- 108 replies
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David - your idea sounds really good but I wanted to try something I used to do on the airplanes to strengthen glued wing joints. When doing aerobatics with 90 degree pullouts at 60 mph, 10-15g stresses on the airplane are common. 1. First step was to glue the mast together with epoxy glue. 2. Use 1/2oz or 3/4oz fiberglass cloth, I chose 3/4 oz, to strengthen joint. 0.0015 thick. 3. Attach the cloth to the mast by spraying the cloth with spray adhesive and wrapping the cloth around the mast just once. 4. Here is a photo of the wrapped and glued cloth. At this point the joint is stronger but still not strong enough. 5. Apply 4 to 5 thin CA applications lightly sanded between coats. After the first application the mast is super strong without any flex at the joint. The additional applications will fill the weave of the cloth. 6. Finished mast repair
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I'm trying to fix it now. It broke at the bottom sheave hole which is a weak spot. Will take pics of what I hope will be a working solution. Definitely don't want to make another one. But, I will if I have to.
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Just did my first ever seizing even though it took 5 attempts to get it halfway right.
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Floyd - Have you done any planking yet?
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Will do, Thanks
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Chuck, Sorry for so many questions. Being my first build I really want to do things right. Should I seize the block/horse and Mast block/hook the same way? Is there a link showing the way that you would do the seizing? Thanks, Mike
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Thanks! As always very helpful.
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Chuck, do you normally ca the seizing between a block and the "horse", for example? When I do, it turns the tan line dark brown and it just looks too dark. Thanks, Mike
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Mike, I know what you are saying but I don't see where the problem is. The gap between planks and the false keel is normal and won't have a negative effect on the final shape of the hull. By the "joint would be smooth" I'm guessing that you mean like on the Pinnace where the bulkheads flow into the keel. Again, I don't see where the problem is. Only 3 planks after the garboard are needed to get to all the bulkheads. Those 3 planks can easily be sanded into a smooth contour.
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Longboat 1:48 scale 1/4"=1ft Here is a good link on oars. . . https://sites.google.com/site/shipwrightsfaq/smf-qoars
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Mike, Page 4 of Chucks manual explains how to bend planks 90 degrees so they fit against the false keel. There are 3 after the garboard plank that need this type of bending. He also explains about beveling the edges where necessary to get a tight fit between the planks. I don't know if your using boxwood makes this impossible to do. With basswood it's quite easy. If it would be helpful for you to see photos of the process, I would be happy to post a few. Mike
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Thanks guys! Pops. . . Your coming along nicely and fast too. You will be where I am in no time. David B. . .Do you have any build logs I can follow?
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Finished the bowsprit today. I painted all the parts off the model to keep things looking as clean as possible. I glued the "bowsprit step" in place as per the instructions. After sliding the end of the bowsprit into the step I slid the smaller brass band up against the stem. Once I was sure that there was no play fore and aft I spot glued the small brass band to the bowsprit. I then removed the bowsprit from the "bowsprit step" by pulling the bowsprit gently forward. Once removed, I applied more glue to the brass band and painted the bowsprit behind the brass band black. I then glued everything permanently into place.
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Some photos of the mast. The sheaves are there but not seen from this view.
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Scott, you can get the blocks here. . . http://www.globalindustrial.com/searchResult?searchBox=&q=b891874
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Very nice Ryland. You're doing a great job. Looking forward to seeing what ideas and options you decide to use.
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Pops, I did my garboard like your bottom pic. All you have to do is edge bend the next plank(see photo below). If edge bending does not give you a perfect fit then you can sand from behind the curve, slightly, in order to pull the plank closer to the garboard. I believe that this it what Bob F. . .http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1465-18th-century-longboat-by-bobf-ms-148-tri-club/page-2 did on his build. I just made this up a few minutes ago so you can see how I did my edge bending. Soak the wood in warm or hot water for 15 minutes, Apply a little hydrogen peroxide with a Q-tip and bend very slowly in the jig. The wood here is a little under size so it doesn't fit tight at the front of the jig. All the planks that I used on the Longboat did. Normally, though not seen here, I would have covered the bend with a heavy weight with a paper towel under it until dry. That will flatten the wood thus removing the slight warp or bulge that you see here. You could make the garboard like your top pic but it will be more difficult to shape the next plank. It will have to be shaped from a wider plank or spiled. You would not be able to just edge bend it into shape because the curve is too severe. Although it worked for me, the Longboat is my first build so please get some confirmation on procedure as I don't want to steer you in the wrong direction.
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Per, I'm also sorry to see this but I do agree with Mike Y. and Chuck S. As long as the broken off pieces are not smashed then you should be able to glue things back together. Besides, the false keel will not show on the finished model. If you need a stem, I have one still in the laser sheet. I would be more than happy to send it to you.
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I tried seizing the blocks to the mast bands but for some reason the tan line keeps breaking at the band side with only a few light pulls, even though I 320 sanded the metal smooth. Could be a sharp edge or weak thread, not sure. Looks like I will have to go with hooks. Any suggestions regarding the shape and size? Thanks, Mike
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Chuck, thanks for the info and the link!
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Hi Chuck, I purchased a few books on rigging to help me out when needed. I couldn't find anything on securing the blocks to the iron bands on the mast. Do you have an illustration showing the path that the rope would take. Thanks, Mike
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