Stuntflyer

You are good to go...that one element (keel assembly) on the plans printed at the incorrect scale.  The laser parts are all correct so just keep going.   The plans have been corrected.  The guy at my printer must have grabbed the edge of that object in error and shrunk it horizontally (in Corel Draw).  At least that is what he said happened.  If you lay those pieces on the framing plan instead you will see they fit just fine.
 
Chuck

Thank you…i will continue making more.  I have no plans to limit production.  In fact I just listed two more sets of the first two chapters.  More will follow as time and wood supply permits.

Chuck and I like to use a number 2B pencil on one edge of the joined surfaces. It leaves a strong glue joint and a clean line once sanded out.

So nice, Chuck. Everything seems to be fitting together as planned. However, I know that there where several iterations in design to get there.

So nice, Chuck. Everything seems to be fitting together as planned. However, I know that there where several iterations in design to get there.

And nobody will ever see that detail once the deck beams and deck planking are completed.
 
Too funny Greg.  It actually takes a lot longer to design and draft these partitions than it does to build them.  Once they are actually laser cut,  it takes no time at all to clean them up and  install them.  
 
If only I could find someone else to do that front end work for me.
 
The sail room partitions wont be fun to design I can tell you that.  

Thank you guys...
 
I took a crack at the sailroom.
 
First I had to make the posts for the partitions.
 
There are thin laser cut strips that need to be glued to the sides of some 3/32" x 3/32" strips.   It might be hard to see but the laser cut strips are wider than needed.   You have to line up the open side with the edge of the 3/32" strip.  Let the other side hang over.   The upright on the left shows this.  Once the glue dries, you can sand that overhang down flush with the 3/32" strip.  This will leave rows of slanted slots for the louvers.   They should be open on both sides after sanding off the overhang.   There is also a long slot down the front edge that is created.  This is for the planked bottom of each partition.  
 
It is all shown on the plans.   The corner post gets two of these laser cut strips with the notches.  Just be careful when you glue them on so they are facing the right direction and the louvers will be able to slip into the slots easily.
 

Next I added the laser cut planked bottoms.  This essentially makes a nice two-sided partition.  The planking will fit into those long notches on the posts.  It is probably easier to see them in the photo below.  Keep a nice 90 degree corner with both sides.
 

Then its time to fit all of the louvers...for ventilation.
 
They are 3/32" x 1/64" strips.  Just cut them to length and start adding them.  Eight on each panel.
 

To finish off the sailroom..I made the door.  This is in two layers like all of the other bulkheads.   I made the door up and added the hinges and door handles.  Then I glued it to the louvered section of the sailroom.
 
Like this.
 

 
Now I could easily position the entire sailroom...hopefully.  It should line up and fit onto the 3/32" post already on the boatswains cabin.     And yes...we can finally glue the riding bitts into position permanently.
 

This pretty much finishes the cabins at the bow.   I was originally going to add a sail rack in the sailroom.  But after a lot of thought I realized it would never be seen.  The sailroom is pretty much covered up entirely by the deck planking and the deck beams.
 
In this photo I have fitted the deck beams as a test.  There will be several more between these larger deck beams too.   There are thin 3/32" deck beams...sometimes 3 or 4 between each of these larger deck beams.  They will obscure so much of the lower deck items.  But hopefully you will get a glimpse of some of this stuff as it is quite a bit of work to build it all.
 

 
The contemporary model with its many deck beams..
 

 
 

Rusty, great to see your building Speedwell. Looking forward to seeing your progress.
 
Rick, I think Rusty already put 2-1"x2" boards lengthwise.

Mike, I probably missed that in his post. The picture looks like the support is across the board, hence my comment. 
 
l’ll be starting my Speedwell log very soon. 
 
Best Regards …. Rick

Chuck and I like to use a number 2B pencil on one edge of the joined surfaces. It leaves a strong glue joint and a clean line once sanded out.

Rusty, great to see your building Speedwell. Looking forward to seeing your progress.
 
Rick, I think Rusty already put 2-1"x2" boards lengthwise.

Someone was looking for places to get copies of the plans in another thread.  I got 3 done at the local UPS store while I waited.  Only $4 per sheet.  I took the plans to them on a USB.
Worked out pretty good...   thought I would let everyone know....

Chuck and I like to use a number 2B pencil on one edge of the joined surfaces. It leaves a strong glue joint and a clean line once sanded out.

Chuck and I like to use a number 2B pencil on one edge of the joined surfaces. It leaves a strong glue joint and a clean line once sanded out.

Chuck and I like to use a number 2B pencil on one edge of the joined surfaces. It leaves a strong glue joint and a clean line once sanded out.

Yes thats what I figured.  I usually dont have so many original drafts or
contemporary sources as is the case with Speedwell.  And when they are so different it makes for too many choices.  LOL
 
But she will be pretty when all finished no matter which way you choose.
 
Chuck
 
 

Concerning the low/lack of bulwarks on the quarter deck, there would have been stanchions with man-ropes along the sides there.

Nice start, Steve. Keep up the good work. No hurry, we'll be following.

Weekend progress. Have most of the stem assembled. I used the ultimation sander to clean up the ends. I removed the 120 grit sand disc that came with it and replaced it with 220. The 120 is a little too much for this. I glued the two halves of the lower keel together and the first section of the keel which forms the boxing joint. The inner parts are just dry fit for now.
 

 

I didn't actually notice that the swivel stocks were not on the original model Chuck. But the swivels ("ten 1/2 pounder swivel guns") are clearly noted in Winfield's British Warships in the Age of Sail 1714-1792 as specified for the Cruiser class. Of interest to us modelers is that only enough swivel guns to fit out one side was required. As they were so light they could be carried to the other side as needed.

For me that is very true...But some folks do like to "kitchen Sink" a model.
 
 

More details inboard...sneak peak...

I pulled out some of my 25lb line and with a #74 drill bit on a piece of scrap I got a nice tight fit. 

Glad to see a build log.
 
Yes…i actually have a photo of that. Which you posted.  The circled areas (on one end or the other of a given joint) need to be sanded to close the gaps. The gaps are intentional and yes you will need to sand the end of the scarph on the opposite side to close the gaps.  This will be especially true with each frame segment as the thick wood when laser cut leaves a curved and bevelled edge  that wasnt easily remedied by just flipping the pieces on the laser cutter.  So each piece will have one end that needs just a hair of sanding.

See the page of the 1st chapter that explains this.
 
Just a few swipes should do the trick.
 
Chuck

Jeff,
 
It’s best to sand the laser burn off the parts while they’re still in the billets. No chance of rounding the edges that way.
 
Best Regards …. Rick