Stuntflyer
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Beef Wellington in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Finished the bowsprit today. I painted all the parts off the model to keep things looking as clean as possible.
I glued the "bowsprit step" in place as per the instructions. After sliding the end of the bowsprit into the step I slid the smaller brass band up against the stem. Once I was sure that there was no play fore and aft I spot glued the small brass band to the bowsprit. I then removed the bowsprit from the "bowsprit step" by pulling the bowsprit gently forward. Once removed, I applied more glue to the brass band and painted the bowsprit behind the brass band black. I then glued everything permanently into place.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Pete Jaquith in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Finished the bowsprit today. I painted all the parts off the model to keep things looking as clean as possible.
I glued the "bowsprit step" in place as per the instructions. After sliding the end of the bowsprit into the step I slid the smaller brass band up against the stem. Once I was sure that there was no play fore and aft I spot glued the small brass band to the bowsprit. I then removed the bowsprit from the "bowsprit step" by pulling the bowsprit gently forward. Once removed, I applied more glue to the brass band and painted the bowsprit behind the brass band black. I then glued everything permanently into place.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from samueljr in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Finished the bowsprit today. I painted all the parts off the model to keep things looking as clean as possible.
I glued the "bowsprit step" in place as per the instructions. After sliding the end of the bowsprit into the step I slid the smaller brass band up against the stem. Once I was sure that there was no play fore and aft I spot glued the small brass band to the bowsprit. I then removed the bowsprit from the "bowsprit step" by pulling the bowsprit gently forward. Once removed, I applied more glue to the brass band and painted the bowsprit behind the brass band black. I then glued everything permanently into place.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from fnkershner in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Finished the bowsprit today. I painted all the parts off the model to keep things looking as clean as possible.
I glued the "bowsprit step" in place as per the instructions. After sliding the end of the bowsprit into the step I slid the smaller brass band up against the stem. Once I was sure that there was no play fore and aft I spot glued the small brass band to the bowsprit. I then removed the bowsprit from the "bowsprit step" by pulling the bowsprit gently forward. Once removed, I applied more glue to the brass band and painted the bowsprit behind the brass band black. I then glued everything permanently into place.
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Stuntflyer reacted to fnkershner in 18th Century LongBoat by jburchfield1 - Model Shipways - 1/4" scale - SMALL - 1st ever build
Pops - You should be happy with the result. and you should be pleased with your accomplishment. You are over the hump and now have the understanding for the next project. You are non longer a novice.
For your final coat may I suggest Wipe On Poly. You can get it is a Satin finish and it is easy to use. I always have a can of it handy.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Chuck in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Some photos of the mast. The sheaves are there but not seen from this view.
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Stuntflyer reacted to fnkershner in 18th century Longboat by fnkershner (Floyd Kershner) - Model Shipways - 1:48
Dave - Thanks for the tip. I thought I would post some pictures of my variation of your solution. Besides what else can I do while waiting.
As you can see I put some Alcohol is a squirt bottle and then I kept the Q tips wet for about 90 min.
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Stuntflyer reacted to Nirvana in 18th Century Longboat by Nirvana - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48
Pops, Thank you for those words.
However, I think everyone in here will remember when one has done a repair or modification, even though it may not be visible to others.
Admiral is happy and impressed.
I also got a nice and tight fit with the smaller false keel part without any modifications.
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Stuntflyer reacted to Nirvana in 18th Century Longboat by Nirvana - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48
The new stem piece is in place, I preferred to attach the stem before the remaining piece from the false keel.
The stem piece has little "extra meat" which is sand-able.
On the other hand I got it perfectly straight!
I even got the connection between the keel and stem tighter this time.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from dcicero in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Made some progress over the past 2 days by completing the rudder and tiller. The tiller was made with the kit supplied 1/16" square basswood. It is thinned down to 1/32" at its narrowest point. I've never worked on anything this fragile so I had to be super careful. The pintles and gudgeons were made from kit supplied 1/32" x 1/64" brass strip and the pin was made using a tiny piece of 28 gauge wire soldered to the brass strip. As per Chuck's instructions, the cutouts in the rudder might need to be deepened slightly to ensure that the pintles lay even to the rudders edge. If they are not flush there will be a gap between the rudder and transom. The pintles and gudgeons were painted with Badger 16-05 Weathered Black.
Once everything was done a thin coat of Dullcoat(not seen in the photo)was sprayed over the entire structure. This has the added benefit of sealing the Weathered Black paint which has a tendency to rub off easily.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from samueljr in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Some photos of the mast. The sheaves are there but not seen from this view.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from fnkershner in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Some photos of the mast. The sheaves are there but not seen from this view.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from dcicero in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Some photos of the mast. The sheaves are there but not seen from this view.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from WackoWolf in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Some photos of the mast. The sheaves are there but not seen from this view.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Mike Y in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Some photos of the mast. The sheaves are there but not seen from this view.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from mtaylor in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Some photos of the mast. The sheaves are there but not seen from this view.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Ryland Craze in 18th Century Longboat by Ryland Craze - Model Shipways - 1:48
Scott, you can get the blocks here. . . http://www.globalindustrial.com/searchResult?searchBox=&q=b891874
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Stuntflyer reacted to gulfmedic1 in 18th Century Longboat by Ryland Craze - Model Shipways - 1:48
Where did you get the L blocksGreat looking build by the way
Scott
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Stuntflyer reacted to Ryland Craze in 18th Century Longboat by Ryland Craze - Model Shipways - 1:48
It has been a while since I have posted to my build log so I thought I would update my progress on my Long Boat. I thought I had finished thinning down the frames until I had several modelers look at my Long Boat model at the Northeast Joint Clubs Show back in April. It was pointed out that my frames were still too thick as shown in the post above, so I thinned them down more and also worked down the frame at the bow. I am happy with the result now, as this will allow me to install a very narrow cap rail.
I gave the inside of the long boat two coats of Watco Danish oil (thanks Toni) and it really brought out the boxwood tone of the wood. I then jumped ahead in the instructions and installed the floorboards since the interior of the boat is very easy to work with. I plan to make the platforms next and hold them for installation in the future. Then I will make and install the caprail.
I have an advantage over a lot of other Long Boat modelers as I have spent hours studying the build logs of other Long Boat builds that are further along in their builds than I am. I thank them for their posts as they have given me different ideas and options to use in my build of the Long Boat.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Ryland Craze in 18th Century LongBoat by jburchfield1 - Model Shipways - 1/4" scale - SMALL - 1st ever build
Pops, I did my garboard like your bottom pic. All you have to do is edge bend the next plank(see photo below). If edge bending does not give you a perfect fit then you can sand from behind the curve, slightly, in order to pull the plank closer to the garboard. I believe that this it what Bob F. . .http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1465-18th-century-longboat-by-bobf-ms-148-tri-club/page-2 did on his build.
I just made this up a few minutes ago so you can see how I did my edge bending. Soak the wood in warm or hot water for 15 minutes, Apply a little hydrogen peroxide with a Q-tip and bend very slowly in the jig. The wood here is a little under size so it doesn't fit tight at the front of the jig. All the planks that I used on the Longboat did. Normally, though not seen here, I would have covered the bend with a heavy weight with a paper towel under it until dry. That will flatten the wood thus removing the slight warp or bulge that you see here.
You could make the garboard like your top pic but it will be more difficult to shape the next plank. It will have to be shaped from a wider plank or spiled. You would not be able to just edge bend it into shape because the curve is too severe.
Although it worked for me, the Longboat is my first build so please get some confirmation on procedure as I don't want to steer you in the wrong direction.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from WackoWolf in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Made some progress over the past 2 days by completing the rudder and tiller. The tiller was made with the kit supplied 1/16" square basswood. It is thinned down to 1/32" at its narrowest point. I've never worked on anything this fragile so I had to be super careful. The pintles and gudgeons were made from kit supplied 1/32" x 1/64" brass strip and the pin was made using a tiny piece of 28 gauge wire soldered to the brass strip. As per Chuck's instructions, the cutouts in the rudder might need to be deepened slightly to ensure that the pintles lay even to the rudders edge. If they are not flush there will be a gap between the rudder and transom. The pintles and gudgeons were painted with Badger 16-05 Weathered Black.
Once everything was done a thin coat of Dullcoat(not seen in the photo)was sprayed over the entire structure. This has the added benefit of sealing the Weathered Black paint which has a tendency to rub off easily.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from WackoWolf in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Finally got most of the inner hull details completed. I used Blacken-it on all the metal parts. 15 minute baths in acetone and vinegar in that order and then 50% reduced Blacken-it with distilled water. The windlass and handle where made next. I could not get each end super close to the riser because the riser is at a slight angle. Though everything looks good, if I did the model again, I would sand the frames slightly more vertical so the risers would be more perpendicular. Handle is not glued yet. I was hoping to get wooden belaying pins of the right scale but they are not available according to Chuck. I painted the brass ones from the kit after applying a gray primer coat first. I used yellow ochre Acrylic paint with a touch of orange, white and burnt orange. After I place the oarlocks using 24 guage wire I will clean up the red paint on the cap rail and paint them red as well.
Transom frieze
Augie told me about this product which he uses to flatten glossy acrylic paint. It's very easy to use and works great. Just a light spray is all that's needed. I will use it on the red paint later.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Ryland Craze in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Made some progress over the past 2 days by completing the rudder and tiller. The tiller was made with the kit supplied 1/16" square basswood. It is thinned down to 1/32" at its narrowest point. I've never worked on anything this fragile so I had to be super careful. The pintles and gudgeons were made from kit supplied 1/32" x 1/64" brass strip and the pin was made using a tiny piece of 28 gauge wire soldered to the brass strip. As per Chuck's instructions, the cutouts in the rudder might need to be deepened slightly to ensure that the pintles lay even to the rudders edge. If they are not flush there will be a gap between the rudder and transom. The pintles and gudgeons were painted with Badger 16-05 Weathered Black.
Once everything was done a thin coat of Dullcoat(not seen in the photo)was sprayed over the entire structure. This has the added benefit of sealing the Weathered Black paint which has a tendency to rub off easily.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from mtaylor in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Made some progress over the past 2 days by completing the rudder and tiller. The tiller was made with the kit supplied 1/16" square basswood. It is thinned down to 1/32" at its narrowest point. I've never worked on anything this fragile so I had to be super careful. The pintles and gudgeons were made from kit supplied 1/32" x 1/64" brass strip and the pin was made using a tiny piece of 28 gauge wire soldered to the brass strip. As per Chuck's instructions, the cutouts in the rudder might need to be deepened slightly to ensure that the pintles lay even to the rudders edge. If they are not flush there will be a gap between the rudder and transom. The pintles and gudgeons were painted with Badger 16-05 Weathered Black.
Once everything was done a thin coat of Dullcoat(not seen in the photo)was sprayed over the entire structure. This has the added benefit of sealing the Weathered Black paint which has a tendency to rub off easily.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from jburchfield1@wowway.com in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Made some progress over the past 2 days by completing the rudder and tiller. The tiller was made with the kit supplied 1/16" square basswood. It is thinned down to 1/32" at its narrowest point. I've never worked on anything this fragile so I had to be super careful. The pintles and gudgeons were made from kit supplied 1/32" x 1/64" brass strip and the pin was made using a tiny piece of 28 gauge wire soldered to the brass strip. As per Chuck's instructions, the cutouts in the rudder might need to be deepened slightly to ensure that the pintles lay even to the rudders edge. If they are not flush there will be a gap between the rudder and transom. The pintles and gudgeons were painted with Badger 16-05 Weathered Black.
Once everything was done a thin coat of Dullcoat(not seen in the photo)was sprayed over the entire structure. This has the added benefit of sealing the Weathered Black paint which has a tendency to rub off easily.
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