Kevin

i have enjoyed the 4 or 5 episodes i have seen clever graphics

Thank you Kevin.
I have my main Sherbourne log here and my plastic kits on Flory site:) Just like your Victory.
 

Lol i have just left a comment on the flory site wrt your sherbourne build, love your aircraft, and very nice photo's

Lol i have just left a comment on the flory site wrt your sherbourne build, love your aircraft, and very nice photo's

To those who gave likes, thank you and thanks for stopping by.
 
Bill, that’s a great tip, thanks.
 
Steve
 
All together now, left hand to right toe.
Earlier I committed to trying the awning shown in this neat pic that Dean’s Marine sent along with the kit, so here goes.
The awning location on the aft bridge deck.

I started with a paper template with a roof frame pattern similar to the photo.  Mine will have some extra framing at the perimeter to help stiffen the assembly.

The test fit went well.  I cut a hole at the two lockers so the template would lay flat.  The hole has nothing to do with the framework.
I taped the template to a flat piece of wood, then wrapped it with wax paper.  I taped the frame parts securely in place and touched each joint with thin CA.  Since the real frame was demountable I overlapped the joints rather than attempting to butt them.  I plan to do the same with the posts to help with the temporary look.

The frame is quite stiff.  The perimeter posts appear to be tied to the railing in the photo so I plan to do that too.  The awning fabric will be my first attempt using silkspan.
I have also been working on deck fittings and furniture and most are in place except the rope reels which just got assembled this evening, and the carley floats which still need some green stripes.  A few progress photos are below.



 

been following your log, as my first trip into the dark side will be the Cutty Sark

been following your log, as my first trip into the dark side will be the Cutty Sark

Small progress on the battery compartment with a spin....
 
The batteries on the Type VIIc were connected in series/parallel to obtain up to 110 Volts DC:

Below is a schematic of the Batteries wiring. In this module, we are talking about Battery #2 (Battery #1 is located towards the stern of the boat). The switches are in the large electric frames sitting above the electric motors (see previous module for details).

Depending of the type of accumulators, there could be 5 or 6 parallel connections between the cells, as shown in the following pictures: 

The cells provided by Trumpeter are slightly over sized and as such we can only represent 4 rows instead of 6 that were available on the prototype (the fourth row has been omitted to allow a peek into the  compartment. Note that a detailed PE set could have been made to represent the connections bars between the cells. That would have been quite impressive.... to build and to display.
 These cells required a lot of maintenance (we are in 1939-40) and did not perform as well and as reliably as modern car batteries. A sliding platform was designed to allow a brave sailor to glide over the cells and keep them in good shape, by checking their electrolytes and cleaning any sulfate deposits on the connections: 

Let's keep in mind that the voltages could reach 110V DC with a total current capacity of 10,000 Amps. Touching the electrodes and connections was fatal in most cases as DC current burns irremediably. On my module, I tried to represent this interesting (although painful and tedious) aspect of the life aboard: 




The fellow uses the rope on his right side to move along the banks of cells. As you can see from the Trumpeter assembly plan, this is a little bit more involved and prototypical. It is always fun to try to improve on an existing kit.
 
Yves
 
 
 

As previously mentioned, I am now working on the Officers Quarters, starting with the Battery compartment, underneath.
 
The Trumpeter approach is somewhat simplistic, once again: 

The amounts of batteries does not match what was installed in the original boat. As you may recall, this section includes batteries but also ammunition, waste water tanks and fresh water tanks.
 
Here is a cutout drawing of the compartment, looking towards the bow: 
- To the left is a fuel tank, included inside the pressure hull.
- In the middle, the ammunition magazine and the waste/fresh water tanks.
- To the right, another fuel tank, slightly smaller but still located inside the pressure hull. The Port tank is bigger because they used the space under the officers' beds to increase its size. On the starboard side, there was the radio and sonar rooms.
You will notice that the bulkheads are also cut to represent the outside saddle tank ballasts. Of course, the Trumpeter kit totally ignores this aspect, even though it is clearly visible from the outside. So, we have to open some cuts, at least on the starboard: 

Matching cuts will have to be done on the other bulkhead, in the control room (left on the picture).
 
I have decided to improve on the Trumpeter implementation and make that compartment a little bit more interesting and descriptive. Therefore, we are starting from this: 

And adding the representation of the fuel tanks, on both sides. To allow a peek into the battery room and ammunition magazine, it is necessary to "wave" the starboard tank wall:  

It is starting to come together: 

and with the waste tanks and fresh water tank as well as the magazine: 


I started designing and cutting some parts to close some of the pressure hull and represent the Fuel tank: 

But I realized that I had some spare parts and decided instead to use the ceiling of that same compartment to represent my external pressure hull section. After cutting it to size, this is what we have: 

It is a lot more prototypical than whatever I could have done and come with the internal ribs of the pressure hull. Once painted, the result is not too bad: 

All the batteries (3 rows) in this compartment have been painted. I will need to dry brush them to represent some connections and the sulfate on the connections. The fourth row of batteries will not be represented for the reason that you will see later....(surprise).

Note that I have exhausted almost all the batteries included in the kit. It is a good thing, I have another set for the rear compartment.
 
Yves
 
 
 
 
 
 

Whilst on the subject of spot the changes-- I built the hull with the rub strip/weather board raised piece as per the instructions then I noticed this-
 
Built as per plans
As per the box picture

As per Steam Pinnace 199--- so something else to re-work

Port liners
 
Here's an update on the build, there is quite a lot of work to do before I'm planning on planking the hull. My focus has been on planking the decks and now taking a break to switch over to another task. Currently I am working out where the cannon hatches are to be positioned and build port liners around them as part of the ships framing to plank onto later for the hull.
 
A couple of blogs I have read recall the difficulty adding cannon hatch holes after planking, and finding sections of bulkheads that need removing. So I thought I would calculate this first and frame port liners as a guide while planking. Using the guides in parts #84, #85, & #86 (guides for rigging to deadeyes) the sections are marked out where the cannon hatches go. And from studying many images of the actual HMS Victory, the Corel plans and other models it is easy to place them from each mast hole in the deck.
 
My first thought was that there was a bulkhead in the way in the front of the ship, so I endeavoured to remove  sections of the bulkheads to facilitate locations for the cannons to be positioned. Upon further reflection of the plans however I discovered one of the gaps at the end of the rigging was not actually used for a hatch, but the area directly beyond. Plus by mathematical calculations I discovered the hatch if it had been there was not spaced out evenly from the other hatches.
 
So with this consideration, I relooked at positioning the guide to avoid cutting through the bulkheads and discovered there was a way to position it around the Bulkheads... Which is more ideal for planking, So I plugged up the holes with wooden coffee stirrers stacked up to fill each hole. Now I am much happier with the positioning of the first row of cannons on the top deck.
 
Check out the pic  to see my progress, and a first look at the oiled decks.
 
 

Position of port liners (spaced 25mm apart horizontally on the Corel 1:98 Scale, HMS VICTORY)
 
From reading another Blog, I reccall someone mentioned that the position of the cannon hatches are located either side of the bulkheads. I have found this to be true from the 5th bulkhead from the front of the ship and on alternate bulkheads with the other bulkhead being spaced about one hatch from the bulkhead. The thickness of the bulkhead is not quite enough to make the positioning on the second deck cannon hatches to be centered from the gap above between the hatches, however it is pretty close. I shall provide an update with the second row port liners later when I progress that far.

still needs a few more margins and then sanding, simulated treenails and weathering, lol then perhaps find it dont fit and i will have to do it all again 
 

Good afternoon everyone
 
Foredeck now needs attention, so i have again used 6mm x 1mm x 300 Lime strips, i ordered 100 of it knowing i would use about 50% of it on the deck alone
 
perhaps went to far wrt the nibbling lol (never heard of the word before this build) but now finding it difficult to get the margins fitted, and then the bow will be closed in with the waleback 
 
the  5 squares will be the the fish hatches, they are covered over and was no need to cut them out, but in my cutaway idea i left the option open, should i display what they look like within the hull
 
 
 
 

lovely work, great weathering effects

i have enjoyed the 4 or 5 episodes i have seen clever graphics

Just caught with your build,
its amazing how many logs i follow depending on what subject i am doing at the time, 
im looking forward to going to the dark side soon

Good afternoon everyone
 
Foredeck now needs attention, so i have again used 6mm x 1mm x 300 Lime strips, i ordered 100 of it knowing i would use about 50% of it on the deck alone
 
perhaps went to far wrt the nibbling lol (never heard of the word before this build) but now finding it difficult to get the margins fitted, and then the bow will be closed in with the waleback 
 
the  5 squares will be the the fish hatches, they are covered over and was no need to cut them out, but in my cutaway idea i left the option open, should i display what they look like within the hull
 
 
 
 

Good evening everyone
 
work continues as a when i have the opportunity, which is a lot more recently due to changes i have made with my free time, 
 
the superstructure  has now got the wheel house fitted, i used two part epoxy for that, to ensure i had time to line it up


 
bracing has been added under the boat deck, and more lighting, perhaps i am overdoing the leds but they dont all have to be on at the same time and they are adjustable brightness

 
the cod liver house has been made ready, but at present i dont know how much of the step has to be removed as the rudder cables come from under there 

 
the colours are the admirals choice, being built for her, i even like the yellow, it will appear on a few things like the funnel
 
gallows/otter boards still very much wip , the video explains it better than i could

 

 
 

good evening everyone
 
im happy with the way the two decks have turned out, the grain now shows with a matt clear varnish on top
 
 
the superstructure was quite rough using red primer, so has now been attacked with a hairy stick and painted red ochre


 
main deck fitted into the hull, sprayed red and brought into the man cave

 
main cowl vents made still to be painted

and tonight she looks like this
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

good evening everyone
 
superstructure masked off to indicate handrails and ladders 
after mast with wedge to rake it
the rudder control lines pass down each side of the superstructure through two blocks

 
and i added a load more leds for deck lighting

 
 
 
 

Well i went for B which was also mine and the admiral choice, it looks ok, grey with a tint of green (im colour blind) , i will do again after treenailing if i go ahead with that 

Been quite busy on the build recently so will update possibly tomorrow  night any have any thoughts on deck weathering, thes are the washes i have availble to myself also have oils and acrylics, but dont know how to use them yet

i need to get on with the wheelhouse, and although i have a couple of general phots the rest is artistic licience, But the divider between the chart house and radio room is removable so i could do it all again, to many light i know but it is all wireless remote so i have all different brightness and solid or flashing mode, also with different speeds
 

Good evening everyone
 
having asked a few people i have decided to change the way i post my updates for this build. i so wanted to keep it clean and tidy, but as it is quite a big build there are lots of little projects that can be progressed
 
Wheel house continues
to hide the wiring i am trying to put it behind panels, the three lights under the bridge are in a position of my choosing as it is being built for my wife, and thats where she wanted them

MAIN DECK
so far i have used 50m of lime strip 1x5mm and need about the same again to completed the fordeck
 
the hatched took me a while, as the kit just reuired them to be fixed the the lined deck, so i had to plank around them
 
paint used for the hatches is MIG IDF green i bought for the D9R that i never finished


 
they will later on fit like this


 

Steam winch
 
Just forward of the superstructure is the steam winch, which builds into a very nice module, but with a lot of cleaning up
it is 90% complete, but to finish the bits it will need painting, so will be done a lot later with all the other motors and winches that are sill in bags