harvey1847

Hi federicoaa,
some pictures of the construction the barrels.
Karl

Hi friends,
correction / amendment of ballasting stones.
Karl
 
 
 
Teil  36

Hi friends,
thanks for the kind comments.
 
 
 
 
Greg,
 
Centring ruler by the company PROXXON.
 
Material for the hoops / rings is black paper carton.
 
Regards Karl
 

Ask and you shall get, Ben. Two photos of Triton in her case. The case was obtained from Collecting Warehouse ( the link is in Rusty's log). Quick service and a nice product -- thanks, Rusty for the reference.
 
Bob

As indicated earlier today, attached are the final photos of the cross section build.
 
 
This was a really fun build, made even more so by being part of a great group of talented builders and warm, encouraging and helpful friends. As with all builds the end is bittersweet -- nice to be done and looking forward to the next, but sad to part with a "member of the family".
 
This was also a learning experience for me. I learned that it was possible for me to do a framed scratch build with only hand tools, including tools like chisels, which I had never used before. On the other hand, I learned that it is highly unlikely that I will ever attempt a full framed ship -- simply too much time and effort at my age (I might consider another cross section at some point). I'm happy to be looking forward to a return to kitbashing (or kit enhancement as B.E. calls it). Essex is sitting here waiting and I'm starting to figure out how I'll "enhance" it.
 
Thanks again to all who have followed and supported this build.
 
Bob
 
 

In a burst of activity over the last few days, I completed all of the remaining work on the cross section. This included making and installing the gangway brackets, the gangways, the cap rails, the ladders, bits of deck planking for the gangway ladder landings, the skid beams and the tiny slivers of the quarter deck rail.
 
Because of my fear and loathing of working with metal, I made the brackets from wood, with the exception of the skid beam crutches, which are brass. The gangways were done with holly, with boxwood trim. The skid beams are boxwood, as are the ladders. The cap rails were made from laminations of ebony, sanded to create a molded outer edge.
 
The fussiest part of this work was mounting the brackets so that they aligned properly and were level for the installation of the gangway. It required a lot of time and even more bad language.
 
Later today, I will post photos of the fully completed model and my thoughts about the project.
 
Bob

I made another deck beam for the orlop deck bringing the total to 3 beams. I also made some temporary cross beams so I could see what it might look like when its done.

Hi All!
 
It has happened again. Two weeks doing nothing but making steps and a wood wall at the house. No time for the hobby... I will be here in Madrid for the next two weeks so I hope to start raising the frames. I´m willing to start. As Guy says this goes soooo slow, so slow but It´s something that one is allways thinking about. Time, time, time...
 
Richard yes I will leave lots of fat on the aft frames and much more on the fore cant frames. If I have to spent two weeks fairing the inside I will not mind. I have to make lots of different sanding tools like these I attach. Are from "recon 4".
 

 
Doc the log I FOLLOW is the Wang´s one. It has no literature but the pics talk by themselves.
 
I will not say again " Hope to post something in a week or so..." ha ha
 
Happy October!
 
 
Daniel.

Hi All!
 
It has happened again. Two weeks doing nothing but making steps and a wood wall at the house. No time for the hobby... I will be here in Madrid for the next two weeks so I hope to start raising the frames. I´m willing to start. As Guy says this goes soooo slow, so slow but It´s something that one is allways thinking about. Time, time, time...
 
Richard yes I will leave lots of fat on the aft frames and much more on the fore cant frames. If I have to spent two weeks fairing the inside I will not mind. I have to make lots of different sanding tools like these I attach. Are from "recon 4".
 

 
Doc the log I FOLLOW is the Wang´s one. It has no literature but the pics talk by themselves.
 
I will not say again " Hope to post something in a week or so..." ha ha
 
Happy October!
 
 
Daniel.

...

Thank you guys, I am happy that you find this build interesting.
 
Here are some more progress pictures.
 
There are two simple capstans under the quarterdeck which I turned from ebony. They are set between a beam of the main deck below and one of the quarterdeck above. In the middle between them there is a part of the deck that is a bit lower than the rest and is filled with sand to make fire on it for food cooking.
The quarter deck is planked with some planks running longitudinally and others athwartship - those in the middle (behind the mast) being mobile the rest were nailed and caulked. 
 
Alexandru
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 11 – Stem Pieces, Knightheads, Hawse Timbers
 
 
American Clipper Note:  The record sailing times logged by American clippers did not result from hull design and huge sail plans alone.  The transatlantic packet service, begun in 1818, in which ships advertised - and ran - to a published schedule, placed extreme performance demands on captains and crews.  Captains in this trade - many in their 20’s - learned to drive their ships relentlessly, at the expense of ships and men.  When the sleek clippers began to come down American shipways, there were captains, well prepared – and still young enough - to make them run.
 
 
In the last part I mentioned the stem piece fillers on either side of the stem.  These pieces, the knightheads, and the first hawse timbers were lofted, cut out and installed as shown below.
 
The first picture shows the stem pieces and knightheads placed in position on the port side,  Their starboard counterparts are to the right.  These have been pared back almost to the bevel lines on the patterns. (This picture was taken before cutting out the rabbeted area of the pattern as shown in the last part.)
 
 

 
In the next picture the stem piece on the starboard side is being pinned in place prior to gluing.  The square clamped against the keel in this picture assures that the back face of the stem piece is vertical.  It has been beveled on that face to match the first cant frame that will eventually be bolted against it.
 

 
In the next picture, the last piece – the port hawse piece – is being glued on, completing this stage of the assembly.
 

 
The next step is to fair these timbers into the stem rabbet.  The picture below shows just the preliminary pre-assembly beveling.  There is some work to do.
 

 
Much of the fairing work was done using the curved, flat-faced riffler shown in the next picture.  It is a coarse #0 cut Grobet.  The smaller riffler in the picture was used in the rabbet corners,  Curved scraper blades were also used. 
 

 
The small ruler in the upper right corner of the above picture was used to check the line.  The waterlines into the rabbet at this point are almost straight – very slightly convex.  Because the initial pieces were cut right to the forward profile, once the glue line is reached the work is finished, except for sanding and leveling out ridges – especially near the rabbet line.
 
The next picture shows the faired assembly.
 

 
The first cant frame will rest on the beveled back faces of these pieces.  The bevels are visible in the next picture.  The two vertical pencil lines in the apron show the location of the cant frame pair.
 

 
The remaining pattern piece in the above photo can be removed.  Another hawse timber or two will be bolted to this surface.  These will be cut by eye after the cant frames are installed.
 
 
Ed

I'm sure Webb and McKay were vast friends and competitors too.......and as you have suggested...probably said to themselves(If not out loud)...*He's(Webb or McKay), building another one*.  
 
As I too finish up my *Glory of the Seas* and prepare to finalize the plans for my *Donald McKay* on her open ocean display....I'm watching your build with great anticipation.  IMV Clippers are the pinnacle of fast ship design(under sail)...and remain my dearest favorite.
 
Here is a very nice picture of the Young America
 
Rob

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 10 – Stem – apron and rabbet
 
In an early post, I observed that interest by modelers in American clipper ships seems limited – at least judging by topics on the forum – being hugely eclipsed by interest in 18C RN subjects.  I am finding the history of the building, sailing and commercial exploits of these ships extremely fascinating.  To throw some light on the subject, I believe I will start inserting some interesting facts in these posts – starting with this one.
 
American Clipper Fact:  In December 1850, the extreme clipper John Bertram, 190 feet/1050 tons, was launched at the yard of Ewell and Jackson, East Boston, just 61 days after laying of the keel.  She went on to sail for 30 years. (Cutler, Crothers)
 
Back to business.
 
On these ships the apron reinforced the stem and supported the bowsprit.  Construction of this member varied, leaving me with another design decision to make.  On some ships the apron was cut from a single log.  On others it was sided to match the stem and reinforcing “stem pieces” were bolted to either side to make the breadth at the top equal the size of the bowsprit.  Young America had a large, 36” diameter bowsprit, so it seemed likely to me that the apron would be of the latter type, so that is the design I used.  It is a subtle difference on the model – perhaps not even visible.  This allowed me to proceed with the apron – sided 16”.
 
The first picture shows the three pieces of the apron during fitting.
 

 
The next picture shows the central piece being glued on.  This was done after the lower section had been installed – working up from the bottom.
 

 
The next picture shows the top piece – fit-up, but not yet glued.
 

 
In the next picture the apron is secured.  The filler piece behind it on the keel is also installed. 
 

 
Mirrored patterns of the assembly have been pasted to both sides in this picture so the stem rabbet can be accurately marked out.  In the next picture the rabbeted area has been removed from the starboard pattern and the line of the inside of the rabbet is being deepened with a hobby knife.
 

 
The rabbet widens toward the bottom.  Technically, it extends from its forward line to the bearding line – the line defined by the top cut on the pattern.  Both these lines were constructed on the drawings from the intersection of the waterlines with the inner rabbet and the side of the apron respectively.  The forward rabbet line was constructed from the intersections at the forward end of the planks.  The rabbet is very wide at the bottom because of the extremely sharp entry of the forward hull lines.
 
In the next picture the rabbet is being enlarged with a full-sized V-gouge after the center line was cut with a smaller tool of the same type.
 

 
The smaller gouge is to the right in the next picture, which shows the wide part of the rabbet being pared back with a straight chisel.
 

 
The front part of the pattern was removed to better see the forward edge of the groove.  This paring is only partially done at this stage.  Further shaping will be done after the stem pieces and knightheads are installed.  The last picture shows the assembly set up on the board after rabbets were cut on both sides.
 

 
I believe the next step will be the fitting of the stem pieces and knightheads – after some lofting of these highly curved and beveled pieces.
 
Ed

Hello Ferit,
 
thank you for your nice comment.
 
With a few pictures I explain today the soldering of the Flanges on the tube of the carronades.

 

 

 

Hello modelers,
 
thank you for the nice comments and the motivating words.
Here is a small update of the report on the construction of Carronades.

 

Hello,
 
here are a few more images for the production of carronades ...
 
 

 

 

 

I finished my new keel and have mounted it securely in the jig. Ready to begin the frames. The keel parts are made mostly of the dark inner wood of crab apple. The false keel is walnut. All are locally harvested.
 
The fish plate and horseshoe were tough because I had to do them freehand with no drawings with dimensions to assist me - they were both best guess based on an isometric view in an AOS book for the Pandora. I am satisfied though as these peices will not be seen much by the average person. They are mostly there because I wanted them there and also for a little accuracy - perfection not required.
 
 

Hello all!
 
Small update, I have been making the steps on the stem deadwood. It took me a while. I still have doubts about this piece. It seems to be beveled just a little bit, as seen in Wang´s Triton, so I will wait for the frames raised up (not glued) and try to imagine it out.
 
As you can see I stopped the step on the “W” frame. The hawse pieces will rest between the stem post and the “W” frame so I will not “weak” that zone by beveling where the W frame ends. (I do not know if this makes sense)
 
Another important thing about the device for the rabbet (see post #52). It worked superb when the fiber of the timber was straight but it did not work when the fiber was cross or not quite aligned. So I had to do it by hand using a small x-acto blade. Fingers cross with the keel…   
 

 

 
I also made the six patterns using CAD for the angles or the fore cant frames. The idea is to glue them to a piece of wood or cardboard and put them against the disc sander table to get the right angle. My table can tilt till 45º. Here is the pdf file just in case any of you are at that stage.
 
angles tilt sander_A4.pdf
 
Hope to post some more in a week or so.
 
 
Happy Autumn!
 
Daniel.

Helloo  Guy!
 
Here´s  a good video with a pretty good faniliar music of the Great Museum of Madrid. I did enjoy the one in barcelona but this one is bigger an nicer.
 

 
HU HA!
 
 
You´re going to overtake me with your log!! really nice frames!
 
 
 
Best wishes and happy modelling!
 
 
 
 
 
Daniel.

Hello all!
 
Small update, I have been making the steps on the stem deadwood. It took me a while. I still have doubts about this piece. It seems to be beveled just a little bit, as seen in Wang´s Triton, so I will wait for the frames raised up (not glued) and try to imagine it out.
 
As you can see I stopped the step on the “W” frame. The hawse pieces will rest between the stem post and the “W” frame so I will not “weak” that zone by beveling where the W frame ends. (I do not know if this makes sense)
 
Another important thing about the device for the rabbet (see post #52). It worked superb when the fiber of the timber was straight but it did not work when the fiber was cross or not quite aligned. So I had to do it by hand using a small x-acto blade. Fingers cross with the keel…   
 

 

 
I also made the six patterns using CAD for the angles or the fore cant frames. The idea is to glue them to a piece of wood or cardboard and put them against the disc sander table to get the right angle. My table can tilt till 45º. Here is the pdf file just in case any of you are at that stage.
 
angles tilt sander_A4.pdf
 
Hope to post some more in a week or so.
 
 
Happy Autumn!
 
Daniel.

Hello everybody! as i promised i´m going to show you some pictures of My Montañes.Everything there(accesories included) is 100% handcrafted. Remember to visit my blog where you can follow a step by step building of both My Santa Ana and My Montañés as well as a link to my website(from my blogspot):
 
http://modelismonavaldeinvestigacion.blogspot.com.es/
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I´ll upload some pictures of my Santa Ana in the "Gallery of completed scratch built models" very soon!

Hello friends and thanks to all for your "likes."
 
My day started great, had an early breakfast outside in our screen room on the back patio watching my koi fish frolicking in the pond and listening to the birds. Weather was just fenom      A little later the Admiral showed up to feed the birds and a couple stray cats.
Then with my first cup of morning coffee I sauntered around the yard and ended up in the garage where the build docks are.
 
I had been thinking about the two things that bothered me.
One, the lack of access to the deck torpedo doors for the hinges.
Two, whether to make hinges for the dingy "hangar" hatches or not.
 
So, I decided to try and make hinges for the hatches. I proceeded with cutting shallow slots for the hinges in the  longitudinal deck frame beams. The hinges will be made from file folder stock.  I also cut holes in the hatches for hand pulls.  I'll most likely tackle the hinges tomorrow.
 
Then I moved to the front and cut a part of the deck out over the torpedo lancher area. I was kinda procrastinating but necessity forced the issue. It is now much easier to work on the doors.  They need a lot of fitting because of the compound shape.  It's getting close to finally make and glue the hinges to the doors and frame.  Keep my fingers crossed.
The deck ahead of the deck gun has hatches in the center line of the deck for access below the deck for storage, I presume.  This will work out just fine for me, I need an opening anyhow to mount the torpedo launcher assembly.  The rest will be fake with only the outlines.
 
I also started to make the engine exhaust shroud on the sides of the rear deck structure.  I had to glue two pieces of box wood together to get enough wood to carve these things.  They will be made and installed after I'm finished with the current projects.
 
Okay, here are a few pics to show what I'm talking about.
 

Here I marked the area I needed to cutout. 
 

I laid one of the torpedo doors loosely on the ballast tank for show.
 

This shows the bottoms of the dingy storage area hatch covers. I had not yet made the handholds when this pic was taken. They will eventually be painted in gray.
 

I have laid the hatch covers loosely in.  I also decided to cut them into two pieces as shown on the photos. This may complicate matters for fit.
 

Here I am in the process of cutting the deck portion. I first started to cut through with an Exacto knife  and finished with my small saw to cut through the deck beams.
 

This shows the opened up area.
 

I temporarily placed the torpedo launcher doors in place.  Still needs a lot of fiddling to make them sit right.
 

Here is the approximate outline for the engine exhaust shroud.
 
Cheers,

more

Result of participation of model in the IV international competition "Open Cup of Kiev — 2013 on Cardboard Models Copies and Wooden Models of Sailing Vessels" - a silver medal.
The photo from competition can look here http://forum.modelsworld.ru/topic11245start120.html