Beef Wellington
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Everything posted by Beef Wellington
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Yes, I believe the bridle port would remain clear -
I can't speak from experience as I'm about to start this as well. The two block next to the wheel I believe should allow the tiller rope to go from vertically downwards through 90degs so it is travels parallel, and close to deck height as it heads out to the first bulwark tackle blocks. I'm assuming we'll need to fit some eybolts to secure these. Interesting you bring up the fore platform. I'm waiting for some more tanganyika wood before I can proceed with that, but I have shaped the ply already. I was going to plank this once the ply is glued into place to cover any gaps. I'm debating though whether it may make sense to install the foremost gun first as it looks to be a bit restricted once the plat form is installed. (I am diverting from instructions and will be using Caldercraft 9lb'ers, which are can duplicate the 6lb'ers in size as provided in the Cruizer kits) in the first gun-ports as it seems these ships carried 16 carronades and 2 6lb'ers - presumably bow chasers.
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Same as Jim. I tried to keep the overlap to a minimum, and found that if you lay the plate in place and simply use a fine marker pen to draw the profile,a dn cutting with scissors, you can get a pretty good initial fit with little effort. Definitely second Jim's comments, use gentle strokes once the plate is glued as it doesn't take much to pop one off - minimizing the amount you need to remove in this way really helps. Once you are very close, you can even use fine sandpaper to get a smoother edge if necessary.
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I think I'm rapidly approaching an 'ask lots of questions' phase, so please bear with me, first of many I suspect to come. I'm had thought about adding a false keel instead of coppering the keel bottom. Based on what I've read and seen in AOTS series, the false keel was installed to protect the keel from inevitable damage, was easily replaceable, and would have been attached on top of the coppered keel bottom. Pictures below show what I think this would have been like based on my research (I faked the scarf joints as they will not be very visible). Is this a reasonable representation?
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Agree with you, thats how I was thinking of tackling it as well as I think it may need to keep a bit of lateral strain in places to sit properly. Have you given any thought to the bulwark pinrails and whether you will fit before or after the capping rail? I'm also deliberating over the placement, on the plans they seem to be immediately below the capping rail, but it seems a little high, and looking at other ships it seems they are a little lower, maybe the same height as the foremast bits. I'm leaning toward lowering them which means it may make sense to do after installing the capping rail.
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Thanks B.E. - that helps tremendously. Think I'll give it a go if I can find some chain, will need to go shopping...
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Nice space, looking very tidy! I think the metal arc on the decks is a feature added much later when the size of the guns started to grow to make them easier to lay and prevent chewing up the decks. Haven't seen anything like this contemporaneous with the "Snake" period.
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Andy, Sjors - thanks for stopping by and the kind words B.E - the instructions are very limited, I went to the Jotika site and found that its possible to download the instructions for some of the newer kits (http://www.jotika-ltd.com/Pages/1024768/Manuals_Front.htm). For comparison, the Pickle instructions run to 58 pages, the Snake instructions have only 6 1/2 !! After a quick scan through I would definitley recommend this as even though they are kit specific, they have some nice pictures and more detailed explanations of some of the common steps. I would like to install a chain, any advice on how to do this or pictures to show the spectacle plate and rudder hancing - can't find any info on these. What size chain would be appropriate?
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Well, the straps took a bit longer than I had hoped, but I'm having bit of a whisky and cigar moment... Broke 2 small drill bits in the process but pretty happy with the way they turned out. I found getting the placement right to be a bit of a challenge on the hull as the the shine on the copper, the curve of the hull and the lines of the copper plates all seem to conspire to make you a little cross eyed - and even when they are perpendicular to the sternpost, they don't look to be. I found the painting to be a chore yet again. The Admiralty metal primer acrylic I'm using gives good coverage, but the copper paint like all metals required many many thin coats to get a solid look. QUESTION - any advice on whether the rudder should be secured to the hull in some way, or is it OK just to leave it gravity like real life?
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Hi Carl, I agree it is a nice contrast. The copper paint is supposed to have actual copper in the paint, and according to Caldercraft the paint is supposed to tarnish just as copper would. Interesting to see how this plays out...
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Glad you are back Alexey, I greatly enjoyed your previous log...will be following closely!
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Stergios, I'm taking the same approach as Jim, just leaving it to tarnish naturally. You're making good progress, looking nice, especially the contrast with the wood and the black paint.
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What is the best way to attach a block to an eyebolt in an 'authentic' way when a hook is not used. Seems like a basic question but can't find any good information anywhere. Any help would be appreciated.
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Not sure on pricing, but the wheels are sold individually. However 15 quid seems a little steep. Don't think I paid that much.
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Looks very nice already Ray, maybe I missed it, are you using maple for all the decking? It has a beautiful colour made only better by the sharp planking - curious whether you had any bleeding on the ends on the planks, I tried this approach and found even with an archival pen it bled into Tanganyika wood so ended up using a soft pencil. Did you seal the wood at all first? Either way, its a huge improvement - sorry for all the questions!
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Congrats Jim, looks great. I know what you mean about the sense of accomplishment!
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Very nice Kevin, one day I hope to tackle her as well. Will be following closely!
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Started to tackle what is really the last task to be done before I can safely keep the old girl permanently on her keel and start getting the deck fitted out...installing the straps. The instructions are very light in this area and it took me quite a while to figure out a system. I only have one side of the rudder complete at this point, but started on the rudder as I thought it would be easier to handle and build skills before tackling the hull straps. I was concerned with the pins protruding too far as I assume that these would probably have been flush, but I'm not sure its possible to achieve that with the supplied materials. I was pretty pleased with the result, the pins don't seem to be any more noticeable than the nail heads on the plates. Heres how I tackled it...hopefully I haven't made any newbie gaffs: Prepainted the straps with metal primer and copper paint Marked the center point of the rear of the strap and pre-bent on a piece of 3mm dowel Spot glued the strap to the pintle only Once I'd ensured the strap was perpendicular to the forward edge of the rudder, drilled a small (0.6mm) hole in both of the end holes (found the smaller bits drilled through the copper more easily). This seemed to secure the strap sufficiently to be able to work on the rest Enlarged the hole to 0.8mm (If positioned correctly, the hole from opposite sides will meet) Enlarged the strap hole further to 1.0mm to allow the pin head to be countersunk to some degree Using the brass pins supplied (couldn't find any others I should use), I cut these down approximately half the thickness of the rudder, put thick CA glue on the bottom of the pin and inserted into the hole Repeated this step for all the other holes and painted. Of course, my small diameter bit broke so will need to find a replacement.
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Thanks for stopping by and the kind words Kevin, your Victory build is looking very nice indeed.
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Wow, thanks for the fast reply gents, very interesting. Seems I have some options - I'm sorely tempted to have a go for the experience, but think I'll wait until I'm closer to that stage before committing as the I may be overwhelmed by the rest of the rigging. Thanks again!
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Stergios, here is the product I used on the copper. I've been proved a liar as it clearly states that it is a 'metal polish' on the bottle, but despite the promise to 'shine' it really didn't, which was good in my view. I just made sure to wipe down afterwards to ensure that no residue remained. I think the simplist thing for you to do is just to try what you have on a plate and see how it turns out before committing to the whole hull.
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Agree Mort, gald I made the choice to go with Caldercraft as a first build, and even though the instructions are a little light (this being an older kit), the support and help from this site is invaluable. Its taken me about a year to get to this point, but it really doesn't feel it and I've never felt the urge to rush. As for the query on the gunports, interesting question! I would agree that these would certainly be wet ships, but whatever resources I've seen (paintings, NMM plans etc) there does not seem to be any indication that they had them. I wonder if there was some sort of temporary cover that captains would have installed?
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Hopefully someone can help. I'm currently building the Caldercraft HMS Snake kit and planning ahead have purchased Lennarth Petersson's excellent book "Rigging the period ship model" for additional guidance. I notice that ship rigged models all seem to incorporate crowsfeet, yet the HMS Snake kit does not make reference to them. Would it be more accurate to include these on the ship rigged Snake, or was there a reason they would not have been used? Finally, what do the crowsfeet do?
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Don't worry, I'm still enjoying this enormously and moving onto fresh challenges. If it hasn't already been named, there has to be a fundamental law of model ship building that states that the amount of work completed in a given period of time follows an inverse square relationship to the fraction of a day worked. For example, it takes 4 times the amount of time to acheive the same result if you can only work of the ship in 1/2 day (4 hrs) sessions, and 16 times the amount of time if you can only devote 1/4 day (2hr) blocks of time. I need to give this some more thought ... but the statement by Caldercraft about the Snake that it can be built in 3 months with evening work has to be questionable!
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I'll post the info on my log when I get home, maybe it is also available in the great Hellenic Republic.
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