Beef Wellington

It's been a while since my last post because I’ve been on holiday in Scotland and The Orkneys for the last 3 weeks. On the way up we stopped off in Dundee and went to see HMS Unicorn, a Leda Class Frigate launched in 1824. Unfortunately it wasn’t open on the day we visited so were only able to look around from the dockside. The hull seems to be in a pretty poor state of repair as these shots show but then it is nearly 200 years old; and it's fitted with a strange-looking cover where the masts should be to keep out the Scottish weather.

 
Back to Diana. Before I went away, I had made a start on building up the deadwood to match the thickness of the modified sternpost. Now finished and sanded back, I’m hoping that it will be OK when it is covered in copper.
 

 
I have also made some of the fixed blocks for the tacks, sheets and main brace from boxwood strip.

 
I've fitted the  all but the main sheet block but I want to check its position. The AotS has it  sited just forward and about halfway up the second carronade port on the quarter deck. I’m not building up the quarter deck sides as it is shown in the book, so I am assuming that this block would just sit lower down nearer deck.

 

 
As well as the repair, the paintwork on the wale had taken a bit of a battering so I have applied another couple of coats of matt black.
 
Marking the waterline caused me some trouble, which I finally realised was because the base of my homemade version had to made more stable. Once I had added a piece of scrap mdf, it was quite straightforward.
I have added a beading strip at the waterline to give me a border to copper up to, using some black boxwood strip from Original Marquetry. It’s only 0.5 x0.7mm and very delicate a but with careful handling it went on OK.
 

 

 
So that’s where I’m up to and with a vapour mask just delivered (thanks for the recommendation Rob) and a bottle of acetone, I guess I can’t put off the coppering any longer. I will be using the Caldercraft plates as replacing them with PE sheets of tiles would be just too expensive.

I don't believe it!  Well done indeed sir, you've done her proud and she's looking mighty fine.  Really fine model Eamonn.

Good Afternoon Folks .. Well Ballier Is Just About Finished...    I just have a few trimmings to complete (still haven't cleaned her properly nor trimmed off excess rope etc) and the Anchor Cable has to be set into a more pleasing 'swoop'.. That said she is 99.9% Complete .. 😊
 
I have taken a load (for me that is) photos of her for you to get a proper looksie (see how nice I am 😉😆)
 
As usual if you have any questions please fire away..
 
Cheers
 
Eamonn
 
 

Hi Folks.. Well it has been a few weeks since my last update, but I haven't been slacking off !  I have completed my Rope Coils and fitted them..
The general 'feel' of my Ballahoo build is not the 'formal just off the builders blocks' look, where all ropes and trim are near perfect, instead She has a look of being just out of a 'refit' where the running rigging isn't all in place yet and the ropes are being made ready for use.. A slightly informal look if you will ..
 
And on that note Ballier is just about Finished ! 😊😊  I just have to fit the Anchors and order the Glass Case (I rang my local glass company a while back and asked if they can do it.. I asked for something like a smallish Fish Tank and they said they can do it.. cheap too!, as I already have the Base sorted.. you can see it in older photos above)
You may remember from a few posts ago I was having trouble with my Home Made Anchor Cable (it being very stiff & inflexible) but my Wife Karen suggested soaking the cables in Fabric Softener .. well I can report it seems to have worked a treat..  simply hot water in a small container with some of the Softener poured in (enough to 'discolour the water' as Karen phrased it) Pop the rope in and leave for a few mins.. dry overnight and Presto much more flexible rope ..  I have rinsed the rope in water to remove the Softener, as I have no idea what the long term effects would be, but the floral scent from the rope is enough to make me do it ..🤣
 
Today I added an Anchor Cable Stopper on the Port Side and the bare Ring/Eye on the Stbd Side as this Anchor will be stowed on the rail.
(You cab just about make them out in the photos attached)
 
As Always, Thank You All for Liking and Commenting on my Ballahoo..
 
Eamonn
 

And Finished the Buoy ..
 
 

forgot about the last one

continuation

About time for an update, progress is slower compared to kit building ( those were the days...)
 
First of all  I'd sincerely wish to thank all members who replied to my topic "3D drawings 18pdr at 1/64 scale", posted last Februari 11. Among those generous offers, one in particular caught my attention as it exempted me from the necessary drawingwork as well as the production of the guns  itself. The final acquisition was the result of old fashion interchange. I can assure, guns are state of the art.
 
Aside from modelingmatters I find it very pleasing to chat with a fellow- MSW-member regarding other subjects and life in general. We agreed about the life-necessity of chocolate .  For the interested in 3D expertise: please contact "puckotred".
Regarding the painting :
- overall : AV RAL 7021, Black Grey 70.862.
- edges and reinforcement rings were covered with AV 70.863 Gun Metal.
Although the pics may not show, the effect is very pleasing to the eye.
A modest attempt to scratchbuild the ship's stove is also included in this post ( + continuation )

... which was the most practical posture, given that they often put their chest into it to push the bar. Oddly, though, the  contemporary pictorial record frequently depicts seamen carelessly pushing the bars with their hands. Perhaps this was a casual approach used to take up a slack cable before the real work began. 
 
The guy on the right in the black cap is definitely a slacker, but then again, there's nothing on the drum!

 
The men to the left are doing it right. The men to the right aren't. Likely "artistic license" in this engraving.

 
It seems the Finnish Navy did things differently, but there doesn't appear to be anything on the drum in this apparently posed photo. I mean, really, who mans a capstan in their dress blues?

 
Doing it right, but again, everybody's in their Class A's and this steam screw vessel appears underway at sea with white-painted anchor chain secured, clean and Bristol fashion, so what are they hauling, anyway?

 
 
Germans, correctly putting their backs into it like they actually might be doing some real work.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Love the way all the details are coming together in such a detailed, authentic and harmonious way!

Love the way all the details are coming together in such a detailed, authentic and harmonious way!

Love the way all the details are coming together in such a detailed, authentic and harmonious way!

So here is the new look. It looks appropriate although if you look at the model on the box it does have the 1+6 strakes. The above picture  has 4 of the 1x3 mm strakes and is less curved than the model plan so will stick with the real thing as outlined by our gracious expert. Pardon the copper paint but I was prepping the back ground before I had to make the adjustments so will remark out the copper lines later.
 

I continue painting the parts.

Model hull before painting.

Tin anchors are copper plated.

As skills and experience in working with metal appear, this time decreases.

A little more progress folks; some dusting, removal of glue (when properly dry) etc still to do but here is the result for the Gallows and Belfry.  In hindsight, I wish I had not secured the Elliott riding bitts in place as they need to be a little more forward, but in reality there is still room to work the cable around them if needed.  I couldn't move the gallows further aft as I have to preserve room/space for the capstan bars when fitted.  I still have to add the simulated bolt heads on the legs of the belfry.  
 
The bit of brass at the top is a breather pipe.  The tank is 3D printed resin airbrushed with Mr. Metal 'iron'; although not clear, the bit bottom central is a cock for drawing fresh water which I think should no be at the back - too late now though.
 
Sorry the challenge was not taken up re fitting a bell rope - the thing was just to small.  I could not drill a small enough hole in the clapper's end without the drill bit wandering around (only 0.3mm  end below the round part).  I may end up just gluing a bit of twisted cotton (3 colours)  on there.
 
 
 
 
 

 

 

 
cheers
 
Pat

OK folks, a little more digging around has found something that may work and sort of conforms (roughly) with the lithograph detail.  The NMM Collections holds a belfry and bell (items EQA0462_1 and EQA0462 respectively) that was fitted in the Yacht Fox (also built 1855) that is metal, and has projections - just a little different to the profiler in its upper parts.  Close enough for it to work though I think?
 

 
cheers
 
Pat
 
 

Hi Steven, remembering, like you (but not as small as yours) I am working at 1:72, so these will be quite small.
 
The imagery I have of the belfry infers that it is a timber rather than a metal frame, however, a valid argument could be made for either.  The belfry appears to be fitted on top of another structure otherwise it would not be visible above the roughtree rails.  It is therefore possible that it forms part of the gallows structure (only place the gallows could be based on other equipment etc).
 
HMCSS Victoria Lithograph (Crop) - original from State Library of Victoria (SLA)

 
If the belfry was constructed with a metal frame, these were usually a single-arch (as shown below), and a relatively thin structure.   However, the profile of the curves for such a frame conforms much tighter to the shape of the bell as depicted in the lithograph, and it is much thinner than what is shown by the artist.  The version shown below sat on the riser timbers and would have been more conically depicted by the artisist if this type was used?
     
Typical Metal Frame Belfry as fitted to MV Coho
 
David Steel, ‘The Elements and Practice of Rigging and Seamanship’, Volume 1, 1794, - Folio XXXIV – for a wood structure, informs that for a Sloop of War, the belfry should stand 2’ 5” above the beams.   This ties in well with the scaled version of the lithograph when underlain with the CAD plan and use the gallows end boards in lieu of the deck beams (i.e. 2' 5" above the top of the end boards).  
 
My interpretation so far is shown below which shows the 100 gallon freshwater tank which will be braced by the gallows end boards (and two rails - I have yet to completely draw/finish the gallows structure ) - the front timbers go down to/through the deck and will fasten to the deck beams in similar fashion to the bitts.  I know the lithograph shows them more slanted, but the artist's perspective used had the ship on a slight bow on aspect, which may have influenced/skewed his depiction (well that is my current story  )

 
cheers
 
Pat

Ok folks, another small update.  This shows current progress of what I have actually fitted  but there are a lot of items already made up (such as davits) that are yet to be added.    The new updates show the bitts and fore pinrails fitted (but belaying pins still to be added) and the 'charlie noble'.  I am in the process of designing the gallows, which incorporated a 100 gallon freshwater tank and the belfry, at the moment.  This will be fitted just abaft the foremast. 
 

 

 

 

 
In the meantime I am also working on the bowsprit which can also be seen in the first photograph.  The gammoning (chain) with its scotchman (iron sheet nailed to the top of the bowsprit) has been added.   
 
I am also working on the stay (fore, main and mizen) tackles which I am pre-fitting and will add the stays later as there won't be much room to fit the forestay tackles in particular.  As you can see these were made up from the more modern style internally iron bound blocks (sourced from Chuck - Syren).  The lower block is fitted to the deck eyebolt with a ring.  The eyebolts have a thread applied so they will grip the wood better when glued in place.  I have based the tackle on some detail extracted from a photograph taken in 1865 which provided confirmation of the type of block and allowed me to calculate the size of the block (13")  - Chuck's block equates to just over 12.5" at 1:72 so is pretty close.  I have still to clean the stain from the iron eyes etc - this is just a proof/trial of how to make them up.  From the eyebolt to the eye of the treble block is 22mm.  For those intrigued, I am using one of Michael Mott's excellent third hands, fitted with hook arms kindly made for me by Eberhard Falck.  The block shells are 4.5mm long.
 

 

 
cheers
 
Pat

Another small update; the watch bell has been added to the binnacle.  This was turned by another club member; it is only a few millimetres in size (5 x 3 if I recall).  This bell was called for in the Specification/Contract, in addition to the ship's bell,  but only stated that it was to be in the vicinity of the helmsman.  We thought this to be an appropriate place?  The compass cover has not been glued down yet as we are think of making one from copper/brass.  This is a white metal one that has been adapted and painted brass.
 

 
cheers
 
Pat

Sorry for the long delays and spasmodic posting of updates, but I have been somewhat distracted from the build by research.  I am at the point I cannot progress until I finalise the rigging and belaying plans, and noting the unique rigging arrangements, this is taking a lot longer than I anticipated.  Progress is good and I and in the final stages of that which has allowed me to make some small progress on the build.  I have completed the lower spars  and adding the fittings now.  I will post some photos of them soon.
In the meantime I have progressed the sheet bitts as shown below.  I must thank Mike Shanks for his assistance in CNC cutting these for me.  I drew up the plans for these and for the PE.  Even at 0.2mm the PE looks slightly oversized, but the best I could get done locally.  For reference, the brass strips along the cross-piece is only 1mm wide and I tried to simulate the screwheads (not that successful though).
 
The single bitts are placed , one each side abaft the mizen, while the two sets with cross-pieces are placed before the fore and main masts.
   
 

 

 

cheers
 
Pat

That rope looks fantastic Ben, looking forward to you opening your store?  Hard to tell in the photos, are the colours similar to Chuck's rope?