Beef Wellington

Thanks for all the nice comments. Here are a couple of others shots from other angles. 

drjeckl... well i could had placed the gun ports slightly higher or the whale lower or other fine tune adjustments. I tend to measure on the closest distance on drawings and replicate that on the model. My advice is that you instead always think about the "bigger picture". What lines of the ship are most important to make perfect? What needs definitley to be in parallell etc for a nice look? Even though the fit of this kit is amazing, its still very much handmade and the kit will slightly vary against the plans. It might be a millimeter here and there.   So instead of simply measuring 6.5mm on the drawing and place the detail exactly there, think about how the detail is placed in relation to other things. 6 or 7mm might actually be better.   

I just realised that I been working on my Speedy for 1 year now. I hope I am able to rigg it more Speedily.... my problem is simply I do numerous of projects in parallel. And I bought an Airbrush which got me into plastics and I took a break from the wooden projects. 


 

Now I think the outside is done and its time to move on to the the deck. Still trying to decide how much rigging of the canons I will do...

Hmmm... minor mistake... when you measure and decide where to add things you really need to think about what lines of the model are most important. Should u measure against the whale or the canon ports or something else? Well later on you you see the consequences of your decisions...  

Details and photoetch... easy to loose these so be careful.

Believe it or not, HMS Dragon, a Daring class destroyer...

Believe it or not, HMS Dragon, a Daring class destroyer...

Just found you before you got to page 4, interesting subject matter.  These looked so futuristic when launched but I think they have some of the most beautiful lines - and now I find myself recognizing how quickly time flies... definitely in from here on...

Just found you before you got to page 4, interesting subject matter.  These looked so futuristic when launched but I think they have some of the most beautiful lines - and now I find myself recognizing how quickly time flies... definitely in from here on...

Just found you before you got to page 4, interesting subject matter.  These looked so futuristic when launched but I think they have some of the most beautiful lines - and now I find myself recognizing how quickly time flies... definitely in from here on...

Just found you before you got to page 4, interesting subject matter.  These looked so futuristic when launched but I think they have some of the most beautiful lines - and now I find myself recognizing how quickly time flies... definitely in from here on...

Just found you before you got to page 4, interesting subject matter.  These looked so futuristic when launched but I think they have some of the most beautiful lines - and now I find myself recognizing how quickly time flies... definitely in from here on...

So, been planking. This shows the results with no sanding yet.  I spiled with some care down to the waterline, and set a sheer line using a thin thread of masking tape.  I had planned to stop there and just slap them on, but thought this a good opportunity to improve  my skills so carried on.  I really should have put in another line at around the belly of the hold - but, well, I'm going to copper them, so thought I'd just use the one plank geometry and as a consequence  the line of the planks is not quite as graceful as I would like .  I inserted a couple of stealers, and I think it came out neat enough.  
 
I didn't plank the stern first, as I want to add the stern post and the keel after I have sanded - though I think it would look better to have the side planks ( there must be a technical term for those) overlapping the stern planks.  The Cruizer brig model in the NMM (photographs above) has a neat solution, but I'm not sure that I could execute it accurately enough.  We'll see.
 
I do regret not cutting a rabbet at the prow (or should I say stem?) since gluing the planks there was challenging - sanded, filled and painted or coppered probably means it does not matter.  I am pleased I did not cut a rabbet along the line of the keel or seek to plank the deadwood on the false keel as once sanded I think the lines will be smooth and pleasing to the eye.
 
The two holes showing on the false keel and the hex cutout s around them are for a pair of M3.5 machine screws that will attach a pair of brass columns once the hull and deck are done.  A pair of hex nuts will sit in the holes and be held captive between the keel and the false keel.  It was fun getting the spacing on the holes right (genuinely; and if you didn't enjoy that kind of fiddling around, model ship building would be a challenge) to give the keel the correct dip, and drilling the holes at the correct angle, was similar fun.  The only unknown is by how much the thickness of the second planking has changed the overall "elevation" of the keel on the columns since the planks are at different angles at the two hole.  I won't know the answer until I've sanded.
 
I think the sequence from here is cut out the gun and sweep ports (possibly cutting our a couple of frames where they get in the way) . Sand the planking completed so far.  Fix the keel and sternpost.  Plank the stern.  Sand some more.
 
 

 
 
 

Hi Vane,
 
I can't quite tell from your photos the alignment of the gunports.  The foremost gunport should be pierced perpendicular to the line of the hull (i.e. at an angle), all the others I believe should b eperpendicular to the centerline (the framing would dictate this).  I had angled the inner face more to try and keep the hull thickness constant in section, but did not agonize over this.   I don't think you should see much of a difference with the other ports.  You can build in some flexibility into this simply by setting the cannons so there is a gap between the from of the carriage and the interior bulwark (as would have been seen in practice).
 
Anyway the post below shows my tribulations in this area and mistakes made if its any help...
 
Cheers
 
 

I have deviated from the original plans and now the big question is if I will regret this later on?
 
I simply extended the inner walls fully to the front for a cleaner look inside. This area is not that visable but according to the plans, there are no inner walls for the last 15cm where the hull start to turn. 
 
The full width of wall gets abit thicker due to the gap increases between the layers. So the question is what will look best? With or without innerwalls?
 
If I keep the innerwalls i guess the canons wont stick out as much here.  

Mark am not sure where I found the information on that spacing and will look and see if I can find it.  I think you might have to be the ship wright in this case and I added a photo so you can see what I did on the ones I made. I think this is a better photo showing the space then the one above.

Hi Mark. the sholes goes on to the bottom of the standard. Here is what Fincham said. There were in general from nine to twelve standard on each side, fixed on pieces upon the deck, called a shole, from three to four inches in thickness. It was like the standard sat on the shole and then they sat down on the  deck.  They was just a plank that was 3 to 4 inch's thick that was attach to the bottom of the standard, length wise depended on the length of the bottom of the standard it self

The Christmas tree I built to my wife's design....

 
Now on to the real stuff. I started on the standards on the gun deck, which I remember Gary saying was really tedious. Now I know why.
 
It was a full week, making the patterns of individual pieces taped together--thanks Greg and druxey, I think this was your idea originally. Then siding and rough cutting the blanks, then measuring the angles of the deck sheer and the curving in of the hull side at each point.
 
And finally, shaping the first standard. It only took me about 4 hours, and just 21 still to go! I am sure it will get faster--won't it?
 
I was thinking about leaving them and the breasthook natural wood rather than staining red, but now I am not so sure. I will put in a few more, along with the gun carriages, to see the overall effect.
 
Mark
 
 
 
 

 
 

About time I caught up with myself...
 
@Ben - I'm going to have to stand guilty as charged!  Appreciate your post, this was something that I have been wrestling with for some time and fully recognize that the approach taken is a compromise.  My thinking has been as follows, and I suspect that every model builder will arrive at a different place.  Your coils are certainly excellently executed!  
Quality of rope used:  Having used the Syren line on 'Jason', there is just no comparison between good quality custom rope and the 'stuff' supplied in kits.  My skill levels are just not up to achieving consistent coils following a seamanlike practice (that look anywhere near acceptable). Scale:  This seems to be a variable from modeler to modeler, but to my eye many of the coils using this technique just do not look right at scale, especially when many pins are used on a rail adjacent to each other. Much of the rope used per kit instructions are much thinner than your prototype - mostly kit supplied 0.25mm line which is not very substantial and subject to gravity making floating 'ovals' distracting Quantity of rope (on the actual ships):  Looking at many older photographs of ships, the one thing that stands out to me is that the quantity of belayed rope used on contemporary working vessels just looks far more voluminous for whatever reason than that seen on modern 'museum' ships, maybe because of longer working lengths, necessity to be worked by many hands etc etc. The bottom line though is that there is enough on this build that continues to bother me (both mistakes and things that I have since learned) to push me to continue  with an eye to completion.  I'll apply for parole at the duly appointed time...
 
Rigging (almost) complete:
After nearly 7 years, with all the main rigging elements in place, I can start to smell the scent of completion.  The only outstanding rigging feature (in addition to some remaining decorative coils) are the spritsail sail sheets which will be added when I'm confident that the anchor placement won't cause problems.
 
Braces:
One of the bigger challenges were the braces, mainly because many of these are bent onto various stays.  At this scale the rope doesn't behave well, and preventing the stays being pulled into all sorts of unnatural alignments by the much thinner braces, and keeping the braces taught, meant taking this very slowly, ensuring line had time settle into place and in many cases using dilute PVA while attempting to keep the stays in position.  This proved to be especially challenging for the fore and fore topsail braces which bend to the main stay in one rather tight spot.

Sheets, tacks and cluelines:
Petersson was a big help here to illustrate how these worked in practice as the instructions are simplified.  Given that both the main and fore require these, with 3 belaying points for each, some planning is needed to ensure sufficient working room as once in position access is even more severely limited.  The tack is the most substantial of the running rigging used and 0.75mm rope was used as per instructions.  At this thickness, it proved necessary to coil rope on the deck after belaying to pinrails.
 
I took the same approach to BE on his Pegasus build in having the sheets and tacks go outboard of any standing rigging, although the sheets are yet to be finally secured.


And finally, some overall shots..

 
 
 
 
 
 

About time I caught up with myself...
 
@Ben - I'm going to have to stand guilty as charged!  Appreciate your post, this was something that I have been wrestling with for some time and fully recognize that the approach taken is a compromise.  My thinking has been as follows, and I suspect that every model builder will arrive at a different place.  Your coils are certainly excellently executed!  
Quality of rope used:  Having used the Syren line on 'Jason', there is just no comparison between good quality custom rope and the 'stuff' supplied in kits.  My skill levels are just not up to achieving consistent coils following a seamanlike practice (that look anywhere near acceptable). Scale:  This seems to be a variable from modeler to modeler, but to my eye many of the coils using this technique just do not look right at scale, especially when many pins are used on a rail adjacent to each other. Much of the rope used per kit instructions are much thinner than your prototype - mostly kit supplied 0.25mm line which is not very substantial and subject to gravity making floating 'ovals' distracting Quantity of rope (on the actual ships):  Looking at many older photographs of ships, the one thing that stands out to me is that the quantity of belayed rope used on contemporary working vessels just looks far more voluminous for whatever reason than that seen on modern 'museum' ships, maybe because of longer working lengths, necessity to be worked by many hands etc etc. The bottom line though is that there is enough on this build that continues to bother me (both mistakes and things that I have since learned) to push me to continue  with an eye to completion.  I'll apply for parole at the duly appointed time...
 
Rigging (almost) complete:
After nearly 7 years, with all the main rigging elements in place, I can start to smell the scent of completion.  The only outstanding rigging feature (in addition to some remaining decorative coils) are the spritsail sail sheets which will be added when I'm confident that the anchor placement won't cause problems.
 
Braces:
One of the bigger challenges were the braces, mainly because many of these are bent onto various stays.  At this scale the rope doesn't behave well, and preventing the stays being pulled into all sorts of unnatural alignments by the much thinner braces, and keeping the braces taught, meant taking this very slowly, ensuring line had time settle into place and in many cases using dilute PVA while attempting to keep the stays in position.  This proved to be especially challenging for the fore and fore topsail braces which bend to the main stay in one rather tight spot.

Sheets, tacks and cluelines:
Petersson was a big help here to illustrate how these worked in practice as the instructions are simplified.  Given that both the main and fore require these, with 3 belaying points for each, some planning is needed to ensure sufficient working room as once in position access is even more severely limited.  The tack is the most substantial of the running rigging used and 0.75mm rope was used as per instructions.  At this thickness, it proved necessary to coil rope on the deck after belaying to pinrails.
 
I took the same approach to BE on his Pegasus build in having the sheets and tacks go outboard of any standing rigging, although the sheets are yet to be finally secured.


And finally, some overall shots..

 
 
 
 
 
 

Well the niggle got the better of me - as I knew it would.  Doing it at this stage was a little fraught with anchors and other bits of rigging in the  way, but  I am now a little easier to live with.  I should complete rigging the anchors which more or less finishes the whole thing except for some tidying up and doing a few more rope coils. 
 
We go to the coast, south of Sydney for about 3 weeks on Monday, so that will be the finish of boating until the New Year.  By then I'm hoping to have a solution to the HMS Speedy problem.
 
This is how belaying the main tack now looks.
 

 
 

 

 

 
 

Hi Peter, just seeing your post now, hope this was an isolated incident.  This seems to me to be one of the most egregious design flaws on one of the earlier Caldercraft kits, having the joint of the brass wire directly where the tension from the chains is applied does not make sense.  Hope you haven't had any more failures, on my Snake build I put some spots of epoxy in the slot of the channel before attaching the shrouds to try and provide a little more structural integrity.  Merry Christmas!

About time I caught up with myself...
 
@Ben - I'm going to have to stand guilty as charged!  Appreciate your post, this was something that I have been wrestling with for some time and fully recognize that the approach taken is a compromise.  My thinking has been as follows, and I suspect that every model builder will arrive at a different place.  Your coils are certainly excellently executed!  
Quality of rope used:  Having used the Syren line on 'Jason', there is just no comparison between good quality custom rope and the 'stuff' supplied in kits.  My skill levels are just not up to achieving consistent coils following a seamanlike practice (that look anywhere near acceptable). Scale:  This seems to be a variable from modeler to modeler, but to my eye many of the coils using this technique just do not look right at scale, especially when many pins are used on a rail adjacent to each other. Much of the rope used per kit instructions are much thinner than your prototype - mostly kit supplied 0.25mm line which is not very substantial and subject to gravity making floating 'ovals' distracting Quantity of rope (on the actual ships):  Looking at many older photographs of ships, the one thing that stands out to me is that the quantity of belayed rope used on contemporary working vessels just looks far more voluminous for whatever reason than that seen on modern 'museum' ships, maybe because of longer working lengths, necessity to be worked by many hands etc etc. The bottom line though is that there is enough on this build that continues to bother me (both mistakes and things that I have since learned) to push me to continue  with an eye to completion.  I'll apply for parole at the duly appointed time...
 
Rigging (almost) complete:
After nearly 7 years, with all the main rigging elements in place, I can start to smell the scent of completion.  The only outstanding rigging feature (in addition to some remaining decorative coils) are the spritsail sail sheets which will be added when I'm confident that the anchor placement won't cause problems.
 
Braces:
One of the bigger challenges were the braces, mainly because many of these are bent onto various stays.  At this scale the rope doesn't behave well, and preventing the stays being pulled into all sorts of unnatural alignments by the much thinner braces, and keeping the braces taught, meant taking this very slowly, ensuring line had time settle into place and in many cases using dilute PVA while attempting to keep the stays in position.  This proved to be especially challenging for the fore and fore topsail braces which bend to the main stay in one rather tight spot.

Sheets, tacks and cluelines:
Petersson was a big help here to illustrate how these worked in practice as the instructions are simplified.  Given that both the main and fore require these, with 3 belaying points for each, some planning is needed to ensure sufficient working room as once in position access is even more severely limited.  The tack is the most substantial of the running rigging used and 0.75mm rope was used as per instructions.  At this thickness, it proved necessary to coil rope on the deck after belaying to pinrails.
 
I took the same approach to BE on his Pegasus build in having the sheets and tacks go outboard of any standing rigging, although the sheets are yet to be finally secured.


And finally, some overall shots..

 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks Everyone,
 
Work on the upper deck aft framing is almost complete and I just have to tie it in with the Wing Transom now.
Then there are the five trickier mid sections to complete the upper deck.

Thank you Rusty, Bob, and Richard.
 
@ Richard - I'm not too sure about the intricate workings of the capstan but I think there would be a pawl system on it. Sailing Drifters is a good read, so many snippets about life in a fishing community around the turn of the century, even down to the cost of a pint of ale! I have now bought the sister volume on Sailing Trawlers.
 
Post 48

The rigging Part Three

The Fore sheets also have an interesting configuration.

Fore Sheets 1⅞” manilla - 0.20mm ø line used.

The tackle consists of a 3mm Double block combined with a (lower) single block. (A deadblock according to the Underhill Plans).



9391
The top block is hooked to the clew, the lower block is attached by a chain necklace to the portside stringer with the running line passing thro’ a bullseye chained to the lower block, and the fall secured around a belay pin, and tied off at a cleat.

 

9396

9406

9393
 Fore sheet from the starboard side.

In the Fore ground is the ‘Tuckle chain securing the Mizen tack.

 

9404(2)
Burton Pendents

These were of 2” circ wire but I am using 0.3mm ø line.

I start with the Mizen as this falls inside the other rigging.

The Mizen pendent with a luff tackle (6” blocks) is secured in the deck adjacent to the mast partners (skegs) and the fall belayed to a cleat in the partners.

 

9400
The tackle comprises a 3mm double block and 3mm single hooked block. For the falls I have used 0.20mm ø line.

 

9403
Mizen Burton Pendent secured but not finally belayed.

9402(2)
 
Fore-mast Burton Pendent.

 
This has a different arrangement to the Mizen set up.

The pendent is of wire (.30mm line in my case)


 
Edgar March describes it as a runner and luff purchase, and there is mention of a sister hook, something new to me.

Sister block
 
I’ve heard of Sister Sledge, and Dr Hook, but that’s a different story.



9420
A 3mm single block is seized in the end of the pendent, a line runs thro’ this which also has a 3mm block attached to its upper end, and the running end is hooked to an iron bolt thro’ the stringer.


9421
A runner passes thro’ this block, one end is hooked to the bolt adjacent to the pendent line.

This is where the sister hooks come into play but I can’t quite see how the two lines attach.


At the scale involved I have used two separate hooks to secure these lines.

 

9417
The running end is secured to the stringer a short distance aft.


9423
 
Moving on to rigging the jib, the final element.


 

 
B.E.

17/12/2020

 
 
 

Congrats B.E
thats a beautiful built fishing vessel, a lovely boat that seems to realy have a soul. You`ve caught the scene well...
 
Nils