Beef Wellington

Ahhh - tab on the keyboard activates send!  A garbled partially complete message!
 
The routine:
 
a.   I attach a deadeye to the line, seize and wash with dilute PVA - cut the line to an approximate length.
b.   I hold the deadeye in position with the 15mm wire; and place a second deadeye on a wire spacer on to the adjacent deadeye.  Loop the black line over the masthead and tension it around the second deadeye.  Don't pull too hard as it easy to unlodge the lower deadeye. 
c.   A dab of CA is applied, just enough to hold the line in place whilst removing the wire spacer.
d.   Seize the second deadeye and trim the shroud neatly. 
e.   Once the glue is dry, re-secure the deadeyes with the wire spacers and tie off the shroud at the masthead.  This creates the tension in the shroud. 
f.    Insert the lanyards and tie off. 
 
Looks okay.
 

With the various sections of the mast complete and a number of blocks fitted, I have moved onto the shrouds.  I haven't made a model this large before so it has been a bit of an adventure, however, once I settled my routine, they were comparatively straight forward.  I cross checked the various details with a book called 'Rigging Period Ship Models'  by Lennarth Peterson which I picked up in a second hand book shop; it shows in really straight forward diagrams all the  various configurations of the masts, spars, standing and working rigging and is a good complement to the kit plans. 
 
Blocks were attached to the 1.25 and 1mm lines in the normal way; treble seizing and then, having correctly aligned the block, washed with dilute PVA.   I attached the Burton pennants  - straightforward. 
 
I then began assembling.  I started with the mizzen as the kit supplied was missing the 1.25mm line which I had to reorder.  Forward starboard first, then alternate with the port shrouds.  I followed this routine:
 
a.I used the wire spacers to hold the blocks in place and to get the correct shroud  length, and thus tension, I looped the 
  whilst I tensioned the line and tied it off at the mast head
 
 

You're welcome, Jason.
The colors are a bit of a lucky shot.
Applying some coats of (water-)dilluted PVA-glue made painting of the windowframes redundant.
The arch above the windows = same story. This is a decorative thread which I firmed up with cyano glue and guess what's happened ? A nice looking brown which was pretty close to a warm (woodish) color.
Talking about woodish effect : for painting purposes I often use AV New Wood 311.
For the pillars, the Artesiana Latina scrapping tool is an object of necessity.
The grey paper behind the windows was the only option left because obtaining a real window effect was far beyond my skills.
Regarding to the latter I'm giving it some thought using the same technique for the sternlamp.
 

Your stern looks fantastic, Christian.

@Mike - thanks for the kind words!
@Martin - I guess I'm located in the valley just over the hills from the Litchfield Hills of Connecticut 🙂
 
Rope Coils...
Before any more rigging can be completed, rope coils really need to be attended to.  Once the remaining braces, cluelines and sheets go on, access will be impossibly restricted.  I'm not a fan of gravity defying suspended circular coils which don't quite look right to my eye.  I really wasn't quite sure of the approach to take, but I knew I wanted to try to replicate the shear mass of heaps of rope often shown on period photos and try to give the rope some mass, but knew that doing so would be very difficult using the kit rope.
 
After many attempts, a mock up of the pin rail was made up and the rope stretched around a belaying pin and some wire.  Dilute PVA was then applied to ensure it kept its shape, and some extra rope wrapped around to keep the shape.  Once trimmed and the glue has dried, these can be hung over the desired location.  These still require some fettling and wanted to see how I feel about them in a few days with a number on position before securing or trying an alternative approach.  I'd welcome thoughts and suggestions...
 

 

Cheers everyone, grateful for the continued interest to keep some wind in the sails...
 
@Kevin - I think you and I have similar workstyles, the difference though is that you get a lot more done!
 
Rigging Update...
 
As previously mentioned, rigging just does not lend itself to updates as there always seems to be just one more job to complete before an update would be appropriate.  Pretty much all rigging in the main and mizzen mast areas is complete.  This definitely required some planning ahead to ensure room to work.  The main topgallant braces were the last added as the place seriously limits access in an already tight space.  Also redid a few completed rigging items in the bowsprit that have been bothering me, but before starting rigging in earnest, I felt the old girl needed a fairlead saddle.  After trying, unsuccessfully to make something out of wood, I found that gluing a couple of styrene strips together and then bending around a dowel while steaming kept the styrene with the right curve.  The profile could then be better approximated and the hole drilled...far from perfect but looks OK to the unaided eye (the paint was used at this point only to get some contrast on the surface).  One item that continues to annoy me is the application of a single 'bee' as per the plans.  I can find no other example of this and it just doesn't seem correct, and means that a fore topmast preventer stay cannot be rigged, but sadly that is just not fixable at this point...

Bowsprit rigging:
The bowsprit rigging shown on the plans has to be the least clear of any on this model, and it seems to have been significantly simplified to the point of non-utility/confusion in a couple of cases.  I've decided to follow Lever and Lees (an excellent reference!) and leverage Petersson.  Any mistakes in interpretation and execution are of course my own...
 
I also felt that Snake deserves a 'traveller' (the jib stay being completely omitted from the plans) which needed to be installed before the jib boom horses.  This was made from a single brass wire ring, a spare PE rigging hook, and mutilated PE swivel mount.  This was my first attempt at soldering, which let me know in no uncertain terms that I have much to learn!  The hook is a little big, but looks acceptable to my eye once fully installed.
Moving on to the various rigging elements...
Spritsail sling:  The sling was made of a served line and fitted according to Lever and Lees - essentially the same as for the yard slings. Spritsail stirrups and horses: These were all fitted in situ once the spritsail yard was installed to ensure the stirrups hung vertically Jib Boom Horses: (Lees P51) Secured to eyes in the bowsprit cap, and lashed around the end of the jib boom Inner/Outer Martingales:  There does not seem to be single definitive reference to help, and it seemed necessary to piece together info from a variety of sources.  Lees indicates the late 18th/early 19th century was period of rapid changes in dolphin striker/bowsprit rigging over a pretty condensed 20yr period.  I decided to rig 2 martingales.  The inner martingale was seized around the traveler, and the outer martingale seized around the jib boom end.  Both were taken through blocks lashed to opposite sides of the bowsprit to lead them over the spritsail yard, and secured using a gun tackle setup to a timberhead. Jib Stay: (Petersson P19) A block was added to the fore topgallant mast to carry the jib stay, one end lashed to the traveler and the other secured via a tackle to inboard starboard pin rail. Fore Topgallant Stay: (Petersson P61) Led through an eye seized to the bowsprit end and secured to the stay using thimbles, a collar and a lashing which was frapped. Jib Outhaul: (Petersson P21 & P62) One end seized to the traveller, led through a sheave cut into the bowsprit to a tackle.  Petersson indicates use of a violin block, Lever suggest use of both a violin and a double block system.  For a bit of variety (and because I’ve become increasingly unhappy with the look of the supplied items), a double block system was used and this was secured to a timberhead. Jib Boom Guys: Seized around jib boom end and secured using a gun tackle to a cleat on the capping rail Spritsail Yard Halliard: (Petersson P59) Secured to a timberhead per Petersson, rather than pin rail as called out on the plans. Spritsail Braces: (Petersson P47) Plans are reasonably Spritsail lifts: (Lever Ch40, Petersson P64 and plans) Secured to timberhead per Petersson, rather than pin rail as called out on the plans. Bowsprit horses and netting: (Petersson P91, Lees 84) The location of the eyebolts seems to be shown both on the front face and top of the timberheads, and settled on the top mounted option.  These were simplified a little to and simply seized to the eyes rather than using an eye and lashing. The bowsprit netting was made from two brass wire pieces fed through the line, which were secured with some fine thread.  This was then suspended using a couple of clamps on the keel former offcut from "Jason", which allowed the ropes to be secured and wrapped around the wire.  Each turn was secured before moving onto the next.  It helped having this under slight tension throughout.  

The following show how everything ended up....

And finally...the overall state of where things stand:

 

Final photographs. Just a few minor tidy ups to do so as far as here is concerned this build is complete. Base board for stand made out of an offcut from when i did my skirting boards. Brass plaque was from Engraving World
 
https://engravingworld.co.uk/brass.html?p=2
 

















 

She's looking great Sjors, nicely done.

Hello all,
I finished some of the standing rigging on the back half of the ship.  Now I need to find out more about the bow sprit rigging and what attaches to the fore masts along with the connections between the main and fore masts.  I spent the better part of  the last month learning the rigging.  One step at a time.  I can't believe how many blocks I will need to fully rig this ship with staysails.  I am sure Chuck will be getting another order soon.
 

 
Tom

Hi everyone,
I “had” to take a two week hiatus from modeling to build a mirrored wall shelf  (33 x 53 inches!) for my daughter (just can’t say no when they ask 😉)


I am back at it. I reviewed my pin layouts I made a while back. I sketched out a schematic for each mast area and developed a key as to where all the lines will be tied off. 

 

 
I also have been working on the yards. I have them rough cut to length and finished the octagon area on all of them. 

 

 
Finishing up some of the odds and ends to finish the standing rigging and get them installed as the masts are being assembled. 
 

 
There are quite a few things to think about when trying to anticipate what is coming up. I am working very hard to understand the rigging and when it will be the easiest to install. I am probably overthinking the whole thing but that is the engineering in me. 😜
 
Comments and suggestions are always welcome. 
 
Tom

@Mike - thanks for the kind words!
@Martin - I guess I'm located in the valley just over the hills from the Litchfield Hills of Connecticut 🙂
 
Rope Coils...
Before any more rigging can be completed, rope coils really need to be attended to.  Once the remaining braces, cluelines and sheets go on, access will be impossibly restricted.  I'm not a fan of gravity defying suspended circular coils which don't quite look right to my eye.  I really wasn't quite sure of the approach to take, but I knew I wanted to try to replicate the shear mass of heaps of rope often shown on period photos and try to give the rope some mass, but knew that doing so would be very difficult using the kit rope.
 
After many attempts, a mock up of the pin rail was made up and the rope stretched around a belaying pin and some wire.  Dilute PVA was then applied to ensure it kept its shape, and some extra rope wrapped around to keep the shape.  Once trimmed and the glue has dried, these can be hung over the desired location.  These still require some fettling and wanted to see how I feel about them in a few days with a number on position before securing or trying an alternative approach.  I'd welcome thoughts and suggestions...
 

 

@Mike - thanks for the kind words!
@Martin - I guess I'm located in the valley just over the hills from the Litchfield Hills of Connecticut 🙂
 
Rope Coils...
Before any more rigging can be completed, rope coils really need to be attended to.  Once the remaining braces, cluelines and sheets go on, access will be impossibly restricted.  I'm not a fan of gravity defying suspended circular coils which don't quite look right to my eye.  I really wasn't quite sure of the approach to take, but I knew I wanted to try to replicate the shear mass of heaps of rope often shown on period photos and try to give the rope some mass, but knew that doing so would be very difficult using the kit rope.
 
After many attempts, a mock up of the pin rail was made up and the rope stretched around a belaying pin and some wire.  Dilute PVA was then applied to ensure it kept its shape, and some extra rope wrapped around to keep the shape.  Once trimmed and the glue has dried, these can be hung over the desired location.  These still require some fettling and wanted to see how I feel about them in a few days with a number on position before securing or trying an alternative approach.  I'd welcome thoughts and suggestions...
 

 

@Mike - thanks for the kind words!
@Martin - I guess I'm located in the valley just over the hills from the Litchfield Hills of Connecticut 🙂
 
Rope Coils...
Before any more rigging can be completed, rope coils really need to be attended to.  Once the remaining braces, cluelines and sheets go on, access will be impossibly restricted.  I'm not a fan of gravity defying suspended circular coils which don't quite look right to my eye.  I really wasn't quite sure of the approach to take, but I knew I wanted to try to replicate the shear mass of heaps of rope often shown on period photos and try to give the rope some mass, but knew that doing so would be very difficult using the kit rope.
 
After many attempts, a mock up of the pin rail was made up and the rope stretched around a belaying pin and some wire.  Dilute PVA was then applied to ensure it kept its shape, and some extra rope wrapped around to keep the shape.  Once trimmed and the glue has dried, these can be hung over the desired location.  These still require some fettling and wanted to see how I feel about them in a few days with a number on position before securing or trying an alternative approach.  I'd welcome thoughts and suggestions...
 

 

Once work on the mounting hardware was done, moved onto the coppering (of course) and other finishings aspects.  I did not bother to copper the sternpost or the front side of the rudder as these cannot really be seen, and simply painted these copper.  Coppering the rudder was definitely a challenge due to the rudder mounting recesses. 
 
Overall pretty happy, and just the mounting straps to go before being able to move back to the deck with conviction.

Finally...pretty much completed the coppering on the hull.  Only have the leading edge of the bow to go and I want to think about how to approach that, no urgency and should be relatively easy to do.  I followed the coppering pattern as shown in the  HMS Pandora AOTS book as there seems to be so little information around on how this was done.  Result came out pretty close.
 
Only other coppering to be done is the rudder, but this should be straight forward now, but I need to deal with the gudgeons and pintles first.  I'm also running worryingly low on copper plates, my numerous "re-dos" have caught up with me but still glad I did.  I've ordered some more just in case to avoid any work stoppage.

Here is the method I used to get what I feel to be a consistent top camber on the gratings, despite extensive searching I just couldn't find anything on this site to help. In the end, I took the following approach:
 
1) Built a small frame and place a thin sheet of bass wood into the frame at what I thought would be an appropriate curvature, I simply glued a thin line along the center to secure it (I know this is really forms a parabola, but it is certainly close enough to circular in the center to pass muster)
 
2) After putting a fine grain sandpaper on the curve, I then used a couple of spare strips of lime wood to act as 'guides'. Its then just a simple matter of moving the grating back and forth carefully until the curve has taken. The guides ensure that the camber remains centered for consistent result.

Hello all.
 
Thanks for the thumps up 😃
 
I have make the stays..... and finished the shrouds and ratlines.
Because it is little and because of my big hands, it was a task but I managed it!
I can talk what I want but it is better to show the pictures.
 
Sjors
 

Promised no more updates until I was done with carronade rigging, still not done so this is a 'notation to self for the future' rather than an 'update'.  One lesson I'm learning is that I'm going through a lot of rigging line, and each spool seems different to the last.  The stuff supplied in the box was very nice to work with, new line bought separately, though allegedly the same is much springier and surface seems much rougher and prone to snagging so harder to work with.  Not sure why there is a difference, whether I was lucky with the kit supplied stuff, or unlucky with the replacement line.
 
These are far from consistent with the outcome, so I'm moving around the deck randomly to mix earlier and later efforts so I don't have a gradual transition from 'bad' to 'better' along one side.
 
Apologies for the photos not quite being in focus, I didn't notice when I took them...
 
Step 1:  Simply rigged using the blocks prepared earlier....

 
Step 2: Rig as taught as possible and thread through the eyes of the hooks, aft first and then the bulwark hook...

 
Step 3: Thread line around the line near where it is tied to the single block, care needs to be taken not to foul with any of the other lines.  Simple overhand knot and piece of wire to help position the knot and keep everything taught seems to work best.  Purpose of this is just to secure the line to allow the frapping to be positioned

 
Step 4: Wrap around the tackle 4 times and secure the end through the last loop.  Once complete, soak in dilute PVA to ensure everything stays positioned

Thanks BE - thanks for checking in, your builds really got me fascinated with the minutia of rigging, this was a continued learning exercise...and something that you really have to do to confirm your understanding makes sense.  Working with the kit supplied line is a frustration in many respects, but perhaps an apprenticeship test.
 
Matthew - to your question...I can probably only provide an opinion.  Access the deck is pretty good at that stage and a don't think you'd have too many problems.  The bulwarks are pretty vertical so see no obvious reason why you couldn't plank the deck off the ship, but not having done it I couldn't say definitively.  You've piqued my interest though and you should also check out the other Snake builds in progress.  If you do move forward with Snake, definitely start a build log and you'll have lots of interest, including me.

Cheers everyone, grateful for the continued interest to keep some wind in the sails...
 
@Kevin - I think you and I have similar workstyles, the difference though is that you get a lot more done!
 
Rigging Update...
 
As previously mentioned, rigging just does not lend itself to updates as there always seems to be just one more job to complete before an update would be appropriate.  Pretty much all rigging in the main and mizzen mast areas is complete.  This definitely required some planning ahead to ensure room to work.  The main topgallant braces were the last added as the place seriously limits access in an already tight space.  Also redid a few completed rigging items in the bowsprit that have been bothering me, but before starting rigging in earnest, I felt the old girl needed a fairlead saddle.  After trying, unsuccessfully to make something out of wood, I found that gluing a couple of styrene strips together and then bending around a dowel while steaming kept the styrene with the right curve.  The profile could then be better approximated and the hole drilled...far from perfect but looks OK to the unaided eye (the paint was used at this point only to get some contrast on the surface).  One item that continues to annoy me is the application of a single 'bee' as per the plans.  I can find no other example of this and it just doesn't seem correct, and means that a fore topmast preventer stay cannot be rigged, but sadly that is just not fixable at this point...

Bowsprit rigging:
The bowsprit rigging shown on the plans has to be the least clear of any on this model, and it seems to have been significantly simplified to the point of non-utility/confusion in a couple of cases.  I've decided to follow Lever and Lees (an excellent reference!) and leverage Petersson.  Any mistakes in interpretation and execution are of course my own...
 
I also felt that Snake deserves a 'traveller' (the jib stay being completely omitted from the plans) which needed to be installed before the jib boom horses.  This was made from a single brass wire ring, a spare PE rigging hook, and mutilated PE swivel mount.  This was my first attempt at soldering, which let me know in no uncertain terms that I have much to learn!  The hook is a little big, but looks acceptable to my eye once fully installed.
Moving on to the various rigging elements...
Spritsail sling:  The sling was made of a served line and fitted according to Lever and Lees - essentially the same as for the yard slings. Spritsail stirrups and horses: These were all fitted in situ once the spritsail yard was installed to ensure the stirrups hung vertically Jib Boom Horses: (Lees P51) Secured to eyes in the bowsprit cap, and lashed around the end of the jib boom Inner/Outer Martingales:  There does not seem to be single definitive reference to help, and it seemed necessary to piece together info from a variety of sources.  Lees indicates the late 18th/early 19th century was period of rapid changes in dolphin striker/bowsprit rigging over a pretty condensed 20yr period.  I decided to rig 2 martingales.  The inner martingale was seized around the traveler, and the outer martingale seized around the jib boom end.  Both were taken through blocks lashed to opposite sides of the bowsprit to lead them over the spritsail yard, and secured using a gun tackle setup to a timberhead. Jib Stay: (Petersson P19) A block was added to the fore topgallant mast to carry the jib stay, one end lashed to the traveler and the other secured via a tackle to inboard starboard pin rail. Fore Topgallant Stay: (Petersson P61) Led through an eye seized to the bowsprit end and secured to the stay using thimbles, a collar and a lashing which was frapped. Jib Outhaul: (Petersson P21 & P62) One end seized to the traveller, led through a sheave cut into the bowsprit to a tackle.  Petersson indicates use of a violin block, Lever suggest use of both a violin and a double block system.  For a bit of variety (and because I’ve become increasingly unhappy with the look of the supplied items), a double block system was used and this was secured to a timberhead. Jib Boom Guys: Seized around jib boom end and secured using a gun tackle to a cleat on the capping rail Spritsail Yard Halliard: (Petersson P59) Secured to a timberhead per Petersson, rather than pin rail as called out on the plans. Spritsail Braces: (Petersson P47) Plans are reasonably Spritsail lifts: (Lever Ch40, Petersson P64 and plans) Secured to timberhead per Petersson, rather than pin rail as called out on the plans. Bowsprit horses and netting: (Petersson P91, Lees 84) The location of the eyebolts seems to be shown both on the front face and top of the timberheads, and settled on the top mounted option.  These were simplified a little to and simply seized to the eyes rather than using an eye and lashing. The bowsprit netting was made from two brass wire pieces fed through the line, which were secured with some fine thread.  This was then suspended using a couple of clamps on the keel former offcut from "Jason", which allowed the ropes to be secured and wrapped around the wire.  Each turn was secured before moving onto the next.  It helped having this under slight tension throughout.  

The following show how everything ended up....

And finally...the overall state of where things stand:

 

Hi Christian, I'm ashamed to say that I have only just found your new build.  Great techniques and execution, will certainly be keeping an eye on you now!  I think your solution to the stern and lights worked very well, love the colour tones.

Hi,
 
At last some progress.
Mark, your remark refering to the stern shifted priorities.
As the stern at both extremities dictates the position of the quarterdeckgalleries, why not seize the stern gallery?
 
Well, after quite some trouble, hesitation, different approaches, here it is.
Still some finishing required, not perfect and most of all, not by the book but I an settle with it.
 
 
 

She's looking great Sjors, nicely done.

Cheers everyone, grateful for the continued interest to keep some wind in the sails...
 
@Kevin - I think you and I have similar workstyles, the difference though is that you get a lot more done!
 
Rigging Update...
 
As previously mentioned, rigging just does not lend itself to updates as there always seems to be just one more job to complete before an update would be appropriate.  Pretty much all rigging in the main and mizzen mast areas is complete.  This definitely required some planning ahead to ensure room to work.  The main topgallant braces were the last added as the place seriously limits access in an already tight space.  Also redid a few completed rigging items in the bowsprit that have been bothering me, but before starting rigging in earnest, I felt the old girl needed a fairlead saddle.  After trying, unsuccessfully to make something out of wood, I found that gluing a couple of styrene strips together and then bending around a dowel while steaming kept the styrene with the right curve.  The profile could then be better approximated and the hole drilled...far from perfect but looks OK to the unaided eye (the paint was used at this point only to get some contrast on the surface).  One item that continues to annoy me is the application of a single 'bee' as per the plans.  I can find no other example of this and it just doesn't seem correct, and means that a fore topmast preventer stay cannot be rigged, but sadly that is just not fixable at this point...

Bowsprit rigging:
The bowsprit rigging shown on the plans has to be the least clear of any on this model, and it seems to have been significantly simplified to the point of non-utility/confusion in a couple of cases.  I've decided to follow Lever and Lees (an excellent reference!) and leverage Petersson.  Any mistakes in interpretation and execution are of course my own...
 
I also felt that Snake deserves a 'traveller' (the jib stay being completely omitted from the plans) which needed to be installed before the jib boom horses.  This was made from a single brass wire ring, a spare PE rigging hook, and mutilated PE swivel mount.  This was my first attempt at soldering, which let me know in no uncertain terms that I have much to learn!  The hook is a little big, but looks acceptable to my eye once fully installed.
Moving on to the various rigging elements...
Spritsail sling:  The sling was made of a served line and fitted according to Lever and Lees - essentially the same as for the yard slings. Spritsail stirrups and horses: These were all fitted in situ once the spritsail yard was installed to ensure the stirrups hung vertically Jib Boom Horses: (Lees P51) Secured to eyes in the bowsprit cap, and lashed around the end of the jib boom Inner/Outer Martingales:  There does not seem to be single definitive reference to help, and it seemed necessary to piece together info from a variety of sources.  Lees indicates the late 18th/early 19th century was period of rapid changes in dolphin striker/bowsprit rigging over a pretty condensed 20yr period.  I decided to rig 2 martingales.  The inner martingale was seized around the traveler, and the outer martingale seized around the jib boom end.  Both were taken through blocks lashed to opposite sides of the bowsprit to lead them over the spritsail yard, and secured using a gun tackle setup to a timberhead. Jib Stay: (Petersson P19) A block was added to the fore topgallant mast to carry the jib stay, one end lashed to the traveler and the other secured via a tackle to inboard starboard pin rail. Fore Topgallant Stay: (Petersson P61) Led through an eye seized to the bowsprit end and secured to the stay using thimbles, a collar and a lashing which was frapped. Jib Outhaul: (Petersson P21 & P62) One end seized to the traveller, led through a sheave cut into the bowsprit to a tackle.  Petersson indicates use of a violin block, Lever suggest use of both a violin and a double block system.  For a bit of variety (and because I’ve become increasingly unhappy with the look of the supplied items), a double block system was used and this was secured to a timberhead. Jib Boom Guys: Seized around jib boom end and secured using a gun tackle to a cleat on the capping rail Spritsail Yard Halliard: (Petersson P59) Secured to a timberhead per Petersson, rather than pin rail as called out on the plans. Spritsail Braces: (Petersson P47) Plans are reasonably Spritsail lifts: (Lever Ch40, Petersson P64 and plans) Secured to timberhead per Petersson, rather than pin rail as called out on the plans. Bowsprit horses and netting: (Petersson P91, Lees 84) The location of the eyebolts seems to be shown both on the front face and top of the timberheads, and settled on the top mounted option.  These were simplified a little to and simply seized to the eyes rather than using an eye and lashing. The bowsprit netting was made from two brass wire pieces fed through the line, which were secured with some fine thread.  This was then suspended using a couple of clamps on the keel former offcut from "Jason", which allowed the ropes to be secured and wrapped around the wire.  Each turn was secured before moving onto the next.  It helped having this under slight tension throughout.  

The following show how everything ended up....

And finally...the overall state of where things stand:

 

Update time.
I make the shrouds and ratlines of the lower masts.
That's it!
Not much but something.....
 
Sjors