Beef Wellington

Looking very nice Jason, some good 'fixes' there to get around making those tricky little fittings.
The cutter is a great little addition to the deck, beautifully made.
 
B.E.

Cheers everyone, grateful for the continued interest to keep some wind in the sails...
 
@Kevin - I think you and I have similar workstyles, the difference though is that you get a lot more done!
 
Rigging Update...
 
As previously mentioned, rigging just does not lend itself to updates as there always seems to be just one more job to complete before an update would be appropriate.  Pretty much all rigging in the main and mizzen mast areas is complete.  This definitely required some planning ahead to ensure room to work.  The main topgallant braces were the last added as the place seriously limits access in an already tight space.  Also redid a few completed rigging items in the bowsprit that have been bothering me, but before starting rigging in earnest, I felt the old girl needed a fairlead saddle.  After trying, unsuccessfully to make something out of wood, I found that gluing a couple of styrene strips together and then bending around a dowel while steaming kept the styrene with the right curve.  The profile could then be better approximated and the hole drilled...far from perfect but looks OK to the unaided eye (the paint was used at this point only to get some contrast on the surface).  One item that continues to annoy me is the application of a single 'bee' as per the plans.  I can find no other example of this and it just doesn't seem correct, and means that a fore topmast preventer stay cannot be rigged, but sadly that is just not fixable at this point...

Bowsprit rigging:
The bowsprit rigging shown on the plans has to be the least clear of any on this model, and it seems to have been significantly simplified to the point of non-utility/confusion in a couple of cases.  I've decided to follow Lever and Lees (an excellent reference!) and leverage Petersson.  Any mistakes in interpretation and execution are of course my own...
 
I also felt that Snake deserves a 'traveller' (the jib stay being completely omitted from the plans) which needed to be installed before the jib boom horses.  This was made from a single brass wire ring, a spare PE rigging hook, and mutilated PE swivel mount.  This was my first attempt at soldering, which let me know in no uncertain terms that I have much to learn!  The hook is a little big, but looks acceptable to my eye once fully installed.
Moving on to the various rigging elements...
Spritsail sling:  The sling was made of a served line and fitted according to Lever and Lees - essentially the same as for the yard slings. Spritsail stirrups and horses: These were all fitted in situ once the spritsail yard was installed to ensure the stirrups hung vertically Jib Boom Horses: (Lees P51) Secured to eyes in the bowsprit cap, and lashed around the end of the jib boom Inner/Outer Martingales:  There does not seem to be single definitive reference to help, and it seemed necessary to piece together info from a variety of sources.  Lees indicates the late 18th/early 19th century was period of rapid changes in dolphin striker/bowsprit rigging over a pretty condensed 20yr period.  I decided to rig 2 martingales.  The inner martingale was seized around the traveler, and the outer martingale seized around the jib boom end.  Both were taken through blocks lashed to opposite sides of the bowsprit to lead them over the spritsail yard, and secured using a gun tackle setup to a timberhead. Jib Stay: (Petersson P19) A block was added to the fore topgallant mast to carry the jib stay, one end lashed to the traveler and the other secured via a tackle to inboard starboard pin rail. Fore Topgallant Stay: (Petersson P61) Led through an eye seized to the bowsprit end and secured to the stay using thimbles, a collar and a lashing which was frapped. Jib Outhaul: (Petersson P21 & P62) One end seized to the traveller, led through a sheave cut into the bowsprit to a tackle.  Petersson indicates use of a violin block, Lever suggest use of both a violin and a double block system.  For a bit of variety (and because I’ve become increasingly unhappy with the look of the supplied items), a double block system was used and this was secured to a timberhead. Jib Boom Guys: Seized around jib boom end and secured using a gun tackle to a cleat on the capping rail Spritsail Yard Halliard: (Petersson P59) Secured to a timberhead per Petersson, rather than pin rail as called out on the plans. Spritsail Braces: (Petersson P47) Plans are reasonably Spritsail lifts: (Lever Ch40, Petersson P64 and plans) Secured to timberhead per Petersson, rather than pin rail as called out on the plans. Bowsprit horses and netting: (Petersson P91, Lees 84) The location of the eyebolts seems to be shown both on the front face and top of the timberheads, and settled on the top mounted option.  These were simplified a little to and simply seized to the eyes rather than using an eye and lashing. The bowsprit netting was made from two brass wire pieces fed through the line, which were secured with some fine thread.  This was then suspended using a couple of clamps on the keel former offcut from "Jason", which allowed the ropes to be secured and wrapped around the wire.  Each turn was secured before moving onto the next.  It helped having this under slight tension throughout.  

The following show how everything ended up....

And finally...the overall state of where things stand:

 

Cheers everyone, grateful for the continued interest to keep some wind in the sails...
 
@Kevin - I think you and I have similar workstyles, the difference though is that you get a lot more done!
 
Rigging Update...
 
As previously mentioned, rigging just does not lend itself to updates as there always seems to be just one more job to complete before an update would be appropriate.  Pretty much all rigging in the main and mizzen mast areas is complete.  This definitely required some planning ahead to ensure room to work.  The main topgallant braces were the last added as the place seriously limits access in an already tight space.  Also redid a few completed rigging items in the bowsprit that have been bothering me, but before starting rigging in earnest, I felt the old girl needed a fairlead saddle.  After trying, unsuccessfully to make something out of wood, I found that gluing a couple of styrene strips together and then bending around a dowel while steaming kept the styrene with the right curve.  The profile could then be better approximated and the hole drilled...far from perfect but looks OK to the unaided eye (the paint was used at this point only to get some contrast on the surface).  One item that continues to annoy me is the application of a single 'bee' as per the plans.  I can find no other example of this and it just doesn't seem correct, and means that a fore topmast preventer stay cannot be rigged, but sadly that is just not fixable at this point...

Bowsprit rigging:
The bowsprit rigging shown on the plans has to be the least clear of any on this model, and it seems to have been significantly simplified to the point of non-utility/confusion in a couple of cases.  I've decided to follow Lever and Lees (an excellent reference!) and leverage Petersson.  Any mistakes in interpretation and execution are of course my own...
 
I also felt that Snake deserves a 'traveller' (the jib stay being completely omitted from the plans) which needed to be installed before the jib boom horses.  This was made from a single brass wire ring, a spare PE rigging hook, and mutilated PE swivel mount.  This was my first attempt at soldering, which let me know in no uncertain terms that I have much to learn!  The hook is a little big, but looks acceptable to my eye once fully installed.
Moving on to the various rigging elements...
Spritsail sling:  The sling was made of a served line and fitted according to Lever and Lees - essentially the same as for the yard slings. Spritsail stirrups and horses: These were all fitted in situ once the spritsail yard was installed to ensure the stirrups hung vertically Jib Boom Horses: (Lees P51) Secured to eyes in the bowsprit cap, and lashed around the end of the jib boom Inner/Outer Martingales:  There does not seem to be single definitive reference to help, and it seemed necessary to piece together info from a variety of sources.  Lees indicates the late 18th/early 19th century was period of rapid changes in dolphin striker/bowsprit rigging over a pretty condensed 20yr period.  I decided to rig 2 martingales.  The inner martingale was seized around the traveler, and the outer martingale seized around the jib boom end.  Both were taken through blocks lashed to opposite sides of the bowsprit to lead them over the spritsail yard, and secured using a gun tackle setup to a timberhead. Jib Stay: (Petersson P19) A block was added to the fore topgallant mast to carry the jib stay, one end lashed to the traveler and the other secured via a tackle to inboard starboard pin rail. Fore Topgallant Stay: (Petersson P61) Led through an eye seized to the bowsprit end and secured to the stay using thimbles, a collar and a lashing which was frapped. Jib Outhaul: (Petersson P21 & P62) One end seized to the traveller, led through a sheave cut into the bowsprit to a tackle.  Petersson indicates use of a violin block, Lever suggest use of both a violin and a double block system.  For a bit of variety (and because I’ve become increasingly unhappy with the look of the supplied items), a double block system was used and this was secured to a timberhead. Jib Boom Guys: Seized around jib boom end and secured using a gun tackle to a cleat on the capping rail Spritsail Yard Halliard: (Petersson P59) Secured to a timberhead per Petersson, rather than pin rail as called out on the plans. Spritsail Braces: (Petersson P47) Plans are reasonably Spritsail lifts: (Lever Ch40, Petersson P64 and plans) Secured to timberhead per Petersson, rather than pin rail as called out on the plans. Bowsprit horses and netting: (Petersson P91, Lees 84) The location of the eyebolts seems to be shown both on the front face and top of the timberheads, and settled on the top mounted option.  These were simplified a little to and simply seized to the eyes rather than using an eye and lashing. The bowsprit netting was made from two brass wire pieces fed through the line, which were secured with some fine thread.  This was then suspended using a couple of clamps on the keel former offcut from "Jason", which allowed the ropes to be secured and wrapped around the wire.  Each turn was secured before moving onto the next.  It helped having this under slight tension throughout.  

The following show how everything ended up....

And finally...the overall state of where things stand:

 

Cheers everyone, grateful for the continued interest to keep some wind in the sails...
 
@Kevin - I think you and I have similar workstyles, the difference though is that you get a lot more done!
 
Rigging Update...
 
As previously mentioned, rigging just does not lend itself to updates as there always seems to be just one more job to complete before an update would be appropriate.  Pretty much all rigging in the main and mizzen mast areas is complete.  This definitely required some planning ahead to ensure room to work.  The main topgallant braces were the last added as the place seriously limits access in an already tight space.  Also redid a few completed rigging items in the bowsprit that have been bothering me, but before starting rigging in earnest, I felt the old girl needed a fairlead saddle.  After trying, unsuccessfully to make something out of wood, I found that gluing a couple of styrene strips together and then bending around a dowel while steaming kept the styrene with the right curve.  The profile could then be better approximated and the hole drilled...far from perfect but looks OK to the unaided eye (the paint was used at this point only to get some contrast on the surface).  One item that continues to annoy me is the application of a single 'bee' as per the plans.  I can find no other example of this and it just doesn't seem correct, and means that a fore topmast preventer stay cannot be rigged, but sadly that is just not fixable at this point...

Bowsprit rigging:
The bowsprit rigging shown on the plans has to be the least clear of any on this model, and it seems to have been significantly simplified to the point of non-utility/confusion in a couple of cases.  I've decided to follow Lever and Lees (an excellent reference!) and leverage Petersson.  Any mistakes in interpretation and execution are of course my own...
 
I also felt that Snake deserves a 'traveller' (the jib stay being completely omitted from the plans) which needed to be installed before the jib boom horses.  This was made from a single brass wire ring, a spare PE rigging hook, and mutilated PE swivel mount.  This was my first attempt at soldering, which let me know in no uncertain terms that I have much to learn!  The hook is a little big, but looks acceptable to my eye once fully installed.
Moving on to the various rigging elements...
Spritsail sling:  The sling was made of a served line and fitted according to Lever and Lees - essentially the same as for the yard slings. Spritsail stirrups and horses: These were all fitted in situ once the spritsail yard was installed to ensure the stirrups hung vertically Jib Boom Horses: (Lees P51) Secured to eyes in the bowsprit cap, and lashed around the end of the jib boom Inner/Outer Martingales:  There does not seem to be single definitive reference to help, and it seemed necessary to piece together info from a variety of sources.  Lees indicates the late 18th/early 19th century was period of rapid changes in dolphin striker/bowsprit rigging over a pretty condensed 20yr period.  I decided to rig 2 martingales.  The inner martingale was seized around the traveler, and the outer martingale seized around the jib boom end.  Both were taken through blocks lashed to opposite sides of the bowsprit to lead them over the spritsail yard, and secured using a gun tackle setup to a timberhead. Jib Stay: (Petersson P19) A block was added to the fore topgallant mast to carry the jib stay, one end lashed to the traveler and the other secured via a tackle to inboard starboard pin rail. Fore Topgallant Stay: (Petersson P61) Led through an eye seized to the bowsprit end and secured to the stay using thimbles, a collar and a lashing which was frapped. Jib Outhaul: (Petersson P21 & P62) One end seized to the traveller, led through a sheave cut into the bowsprit to a tackle.  Petersson indicates use of a violin block, Lever suggest use of both a violin and a double block system.  For a bit of variety (and because I’ve become increasingly unhappy with the look of the supplied items), a double block system was used and this was secured to a timberhead. Jib Boom Guys: Seized around jib boom end and secured using a gun tackle to a cleat on the capping rail Spritsail Yard Halliard: (Petersson P59) Secured to a timberhead per Petersson, rather than pin rail as called out on the plans. Spritsail Braces: (Petersson P47) Plans are reasonably Spritsail lifts: (Lever Ch40, Petersson P64 and plans) Secured to timberhead per Petersson, rather than pin rail as called out on the plans. Bowsprit horses and netting: (Petersson P91, Lees 84) The location of the eyebolts seems to be shown both on the front face and top of the timberheads, and settled on the top mounted option.  These were simplified a little to and simply seized to the eyes rather than using an eye and lashing. The bowsprit netting was made from two brass wire pieces fed through the line, which were secured with some fine thread.  This was then suspended using a couple of clamps on the keel former offcut from "Jason", which allowed the ropes to be secured and wrapped around the wire.  Each turn was secured before moving onto the next.  It helped having this under slight tension throughout.  

The following show how everything ended up....

And finally...the overall state of where things stand:

 

Cheers everyone, grateful for the continued interest to keep some wind in the sails...
 
@Kevin - I think you and I have similar workstyles, the difference though is that you get a lot more done!
 
Rigging Update...
 
As previously mentioned, rigging just does not lend itself to updates as there always seems to be just one more job to complete before an update would be appropriate.  Pretty much all rigging in the main and mizzen mast areas is complete.  This definitely required some planning ahead to ensure room to work.  The main topgallant braces were the last added as the place seriously limits access in an already tight space.  Also redid a few completed rigging items in the bowsprit that have been bothering me, but before starting rigging in earnest, I felt the old girl needed a fairlead saddle.  After trying, unsuccessfully to make something out of wood, I found that gluing a couple of styrene strips together and then bending around a dowel while steaming kept the styrene with the right curve.  The profile could then be better approximated and the hole drilled...far from perfect but looks OK to the unaided eye (the paint was used at this point only to get some contrast on the surface).  One item that continues to annoy me is the application of a single 'bee' as per the plans.  I can find no other example of this and it just doesn't seem correct, and means that a fore topmast preventer stay cannot be rigged, but sadly that is just not fixable at this point...

Bowsprit rigging:
The bowsprit rigging shown on the plans has to be the least clear of any on this model, and it seems to have been significantly simplified to the point of non-utility/confusion in a couple of cases.  I've decided to follow Lever and Lees (an excellent reference!) and leverage Petersson.  Any mistakes in interpretation and execution are of course my own...
 
I also felt that Snake deserves a 'traveller' (the jib stay being completely omitted from the plans) which needed to be installed before the jib boom horses.  This was made from a single brass wire ring, a spare PE rigging hook, and mutilated PE swivel mount.  This was my first attempt at soldering, which let me know in no uncertain terms that I have much to learn!  The hook is a little big, but looks acceptable to my eye once fully installed.
Moving on to the various rigging elements...
Spritsail sling:  The sling was made of a served line and fitted according to Lever and Lees - essentially the same as for the yard slings. Spritsail stirrups and horses: These were all fitted in situ once the spritsail yard was installed to ensure the stirrups hung vertically Jib Boom Horses: (Lees P51) Secured to eyes in the bowsprit cap, and lashed around the end of the jib boom Inner/Outer Martingales:  There does not seem to be single definitive reference to help, and it seemed necessary to piece together info from a variety of sources.  Lees indicates the late 18th/early 19th century was period of rapid changes in dolphin striker/bowsprit rigging over a pretty condensed 20yr period.  I decided to rig 2 martingales.  The inner martingale was seized around the traveler, and the outer martingale seized around the jib boom end.  Both were taken through blocks lashed to opposite sides of the bowsprit to lead them over the spritsail yard, and secured using a gun tackle setup to a timberhead. Jib Stay: (Petersson P19) A block was added to the fore topgallant mast to carry the jib stay, one end lashed to the traveler and the other secured via a tackle to inboard starboard pin rail. Fore Topgallant Stay: (Petersson P61) Led through an eye seized to the bowsprit end and secured to the stay using thimbles, a collar and a lashing which was frapped. Jib Outhaul: (Petersson P21 & P62) One end seized to the traveller, led through a sheave cut into the bowsprit to a tackle.  Petersson indicates use of a violin block, Lever suggest use of both a violin and a double block system.  For a bit of variety (and because I’ve become increasingly unhappy with the look of the supplied items), a double block system was used and this was secured to a timberhead. Jib Boom Guys: Seized around jib boom end and secured using a gun tackle to a cleat on the capping rail Spritsail Yard Halliard: (Petersson P59) Secured to a timberhead per Petersson, rather than pin rail as called out on the plans. Spritsail Braces: (Petersson P47) Plans are reasonably Spritsail lifts: (Lever Ch40, Petersson P64 and plans) Secured to timberhead per Petersson, rather than pin rail as called out on the plans. Bowsprit horses and netting: (Petersson P91, Lees 84) The location of the eyebolts seems to be shown both on the front face and top of the timberheads, and settled on the top mounted option.  These were simplified a little to and simply seized to the eyes rather than using an eye and lashing. The bowsprit netting was made from two brass wire pieces fed through the line, which were secured with some fine thread.  This was then suspended using a couple of clamps on the keel former offcut from "Jason", which allowed the ropes to be secured and wrapped around the wire.  Each turn was secured before moving onto the next.  It helped having this under slight tension throughout.  

The following show how everything ended up....

And finally...the overall state of where things stand:

 

Cheers everyone, grateful for the continued interest to keep some wind in the sails...
 
@Kevin - I think you and I have similar workstyles, the difference though is that you get a lot more done!
 
Rigging Update...
 
As previously mentioned, rigging just does not lend itself to updates as there always seems to be just one more job to complete before an update would be appropriate.  Pretty much all rigging in the main and mizzen mast areas is complete.  This definitely required some planning ahead to ensure room to work.  The main topgallant braces were the last added as the place seriously limits access in an already tight space.  Also redid a few completed rigging items in the bowsprit that have been bothering me, but before starting rigging in earnest, I felt the old girl needed a fairlead saddle.  After trying, unsuccessfully to make something out of wood, I found that gluing a couple of styrene strips together and then bending around a dowel while steaming kept the styrene with the right curve.  The profile could then be better approximated and the hole drilled...far from perfect but looks OK to the unaided eye (the paint was used at this point only to get some contrast on the surface).  One item that continues to annoy me is the application of a single 'bee' as per the plans.  I can find no other example of this and it just doesn't seem correct, and means that a fore topmast preventer stay cannot be rigged, but sadly that is just not fixable at this point...

Bowsprit rigging:
The bowsprit rigging shown on the plans has to be the least clear of any on this model, and it seems to have been significantly simplified to the point of non-utility/confusion in a couple of cases.  I've decided to follow Lever and Lees (an excellent reference!) and leverage Petersson.  Any mistakes in interpretation and execution are of course my own...
 
I also felt that Snake deserves a 'traveller' (the jib stay being completely omitted from the plans) which needed to be installed before the jib boom horses.  This was made from a single brass wire ring, a spare PE rigging hook, and mutilated PE swivel mount.  This was my first attempt at soldering, which let me know in no uncertain terms that I have much to learn!  The hook is a little big, but looks acceptable to my eye once fully installed.
Moving on to the various rigging elements...
Spritsail sling:  The sling was made of a served line and fitted according to Lever and Lees - essentially the same as for the yard slings. Spritsail stirrups and horses: These were all fitted in situ once the spritsail yard was installed to ensure the stirrups hung vertically Jib Boom Horses: (Lees P51) Secured to eyes in the bowsprit cap, and lashed around the end of the jib boom Inner/Outer Martingales:  There does not seem to be single definitive reference to help, and it seemed necessary to piece together info from a variety of sources.  Lees indicates the late 18th/early 19th century was period of rapid changes in dolphin striker/bowsprit rigging over a pretty condensed 20yr period.  I decided to rig 2 martingales.  The inner martingale was seized around the traveler, and the outer martingale seized around the jib boom end.  Both were taken through blocks lashed to opposite sides of the bowsprit to lead them over the spritsail yard, and secured using a gun tackle setup to a timberhead. Jib Stay: (Petersson P19) A block was added to the fore topgallant mast to carry the jib stay, one end lashed to the traveler and the other secured via a tackle to inboard starboard pin rail. Fore Topgallant Stay: (Petersson P61) Led through an eye seized to the bowsprit end and secured to the stay using thimbles, a collar and a lashing which was frapped. Jib Outhaul: (Petersson P21 & P62) One end seized to the traveller, led through a sheave cut into the bowsprit to a tackle.  Petersson indicates use of a violin block, Lever suggest use of both a violin and a double block system.  For a bit of variety (and because I’ve become increasingly unhappy with the look of the supplied items), a double block system was used and this was secured to a timberhead. Jib Boom Guys: Seized around jib boom end and secured using a gun tackle to a cleat on the capping rail Spritsail Yard Halliard: (Petersson P59) Secured to a timberhead per Petersson, rather than pin rail as called out on the plans. Spritsail Braces: (Petersson P47) Plans are reasonably Spritsail lifts: (Lever Ch40, Petersson P64 and plans) Secured to timberhead per Petersson, rather than pin rail as called out on the plans. Bowsprit horses and netting: (Petersson P91, Lees 84) The location of the eyebolts seems to be shown both on the front face and top of the timberheads, and settled on the top mounted option.  These were simplified a little to and simply seized to the eyes rather than using an eye and lashing. The bowsprit netting was made from two brass wire pieces fed through the line, which were secured with some fine thread.  This was then suspended using a couple of clamps on the keel former offcut from "Jason", which allowed the ropes to be secured and wrapped around the wire.  Each turn was secured before moving onto the next.  It helped having this under slight tension throughout.  

The following show how everything ended up....

And finally...the overall state of where things stand:

 

Glad that plan was useful. Those tops look great. When I came to put the futtock shroud in I found that the extra height the planking added meant that I couldn't use the amati deadeye strops I bought for the purpose but thread knotted above and below the top has proved a neat and effective substitute.
 
I've taken some photos and I'll try and put up a post on my progress tomorrow on my log.
 
You going to zip past me at this rate

Some more snaps of the various mast sections.  all to be glued and straightened in due course. I think I may have fitted the blocks on the topgallant masts incorrectly - I have glued them laterally - i.e. 90degrees to the keel when I sense they should be fore and aft!  Hmm. Will now finish the driver gaffs on the mizzen mast and a few bits outstanding on the bowsprit.

Having finished the main sections of the lower masts I moved onto the mast tops and the various crosstrees and trestle trees.  I first planked the mast-tops with 0.7mm box wood to match the overlook of the ship and to I'm indebted to Rob D for his computer generated plans of the various batons - really useful. I made the top rail with 1.5mm wood attached to 4 brass stanchions (stand alone pack from Caldercraft) and painted black.  Blocks attached as normal. 

Cheers Guy's  glad you like it.
Post 35
Riding lamp completion
 
Before I cleaned up and blackened the lamp I wanted to make sure I could fit the lamp glass.
I did eventually settle on using a fine paintbrush cover, slightly opaque and of 3.5mm ø.
Several attempts later I managed to get a 1.5mm slice of the tube that fitted snugly in the lamp.
 

8615(2)

8620(2)
With the lamp ‘glass’ looking ok I could move onto the blackening.
 

8627(2)
The glass was removed, and the body cleaned using micro files, fine wire wool, and acid, before immersing in the blackening fluid.
 

8640(2)
Came out a lot better than I had dared hope, given the small size and delicate handling required during cleaning.

8637(3)

8634(2)
 

 
Time to get back to the main event.
 
 
B.E.
09/11/20

Post 34
Riding lamp
 
Having made the Riding light stanchions I was committed to at least having a go at the lamp.
 The basis of the lamp is small brass Billing Boats masthead lamp bought from CMB. At (6x4mm) it was the smallest I could find and is a good fit for scale.
 

8565
To convert it to the riding light I first had to mill thro’ the back of the part to give a 360 degree light.
The strap and top handle were then added using brass strip silver soldered to the sides. I use a high melt point (690 degrees) paste to allow for adding further items.
 

8580(2)

8586
Holes are drilled in the straps to take the retaining eyebolts.
 

8596(2)
The eyebolts of necessity are very fine. I used Caldercraft etched versions of 0.25mm thickness with a 0.7mm ø hole.
The danger in soldering these in place is that the flame may melt the eyebolt before the solder flash. A test piece was made before committing to the lamp.
A lower temperature paste of 671 degrees was used for the eyebolts.
 
 
I scratched my head for a while as to how to produce the shaped oil container at the base of the lamp.

8575
The answer came in the form of a small brass countersunk screw head.
 

8607(2)
The completed lamp in its unfettled state fitted into its bracket.
 

8612
… and as would be used onboard, final height yet to be determined.
 

8610(2)
The final hurdle is how to represent the clear glass cover of the lamp.
My first thought was a section of one of those clear plastic covers that protect fine paintbrushes.
Ideally a clear cover would be inserted thro’ the hole in the bottom of the casing, but when it came to soldering the base on, the obvious would occur.
I have one or two ideas about creating the ‘glass’, but the subject bears more thinking about before I commit.
 
 
It has been interesting making this little ‘extra’ if only as an exercise in silver soldering tiny parts.
Still the finishing to do but I’ve rather enjoyed the process thus far.
 
 
B.E.
09/11/20
 
 

Thank you Thomas, here's a few more. 😉
 
Post 33

I can’t quite decide what to do next on the build so I decided to play around with some optional fittings, namely the riding lights.

I suspect that these lights were only used during fishing when the boat was drifting, mast and sails lowered.


8549
The aft riding light slots into brackets on the aft side of the mast crutch.


8538(2)

8542
Not too difficult to construct with brass tubing, wire, and a spot of silver soldering.

 

8562
Will be trimmed to size once I have sorted out the lamp.


 
The forward light sits in a similar forked stanchion that fits in a socket set against the forward coaming of the fish hatch.


8550

8559

8558(2)
That is the easy bit, what to do about the lamps is the tricky part.

At scale these hurricane style lamps are a mere 6mm high x 3.5mm wide. 🤔


 
B.E.

06/11/20

 

Hi Greg, when I started looking at the finish joinery and bulkheads, it began looking like more familiar territory for me. Besides the human factor, I realized that much of the detail was inspired by Classical architectural design, in the columns and pilasters on the bulkheads particularly. Some contemporary models and drawings I looked at were pretty fanciful in their interpretations of the traditional Classical orders (like Tuscan, Corinthian, Doric, Ionic), while others were pretty accurate. The rules in architecture are very precise in proportions and shapes of mouldings. I suppose the officers came from an upper class used to living in Classical houses, and wanted something like that in their own quarters.
 
So finally moving on from drawing, I fabricated more beams while the garage is not too cold to work on the router table. I refined my jig, and it worked like a charm to crank out all of the upper deck, forecastle and quarterdeck beams. 
 
The jig has to do several things: 1) cut a smooth arc on the upper surface; 2) cut a smooth arc on the lower surface concentric to the upper surface; and 3) cut these surfaces with the correct angle at every beam location, which gets increasingly steeper towards the bow and stern due to the sheer.
 
Getting the right curvature for the beams on each deck level starts with finding the rise at the center of the beams at their widest point on the given deck. This comes from the drawings or specifications. I then drew this curve on blocks of wood. I was fortunate to obtain an old set of drafting curves, which makes this simple; but arcs can also be constructed by traditional means.
 

 
I then cut the curves on the bandsaw, and rubber cemented sandpaper to one side. I used this to smooth the opposite side, then put sandpaper on the smooth block to clean up the first block. When this is complete, you have a set of convex and concave blocks at the correct radius, which are very accurate and smooth arcs because rubbing one lengthwise against the other cleans up any irregularities and forms a perfect arc of a circle. I use these all the time for sanding edges of planking, leveling decks, etc.

 
 
For the deck beam jig, I used these to form a convex and concave edge on a piece of plywood, I did this by attaching them to the plywood with double sided tape, and then running them against a piloted router bit on a router table. I then installed spacers, first one with a straight edge for cutting the initial convex edge, and then a curved one for cutting the concave edge (because the beam now has a convex edge after the first cut, which is placed against the concave stop for the second cut). You see below that I also rubber cemented sandpaper onto the jig, to provide more holding power so the blanks don't slide around when they are being cut.
 

 
I then hinged this template to another piece of plywood, also cut with the concave and convex edges, but recessed well enough away from the template above so it would not run into the nut on the router. Its job is primarily to provide a smooth and stable surface for sliding on the router table.
 
 
 

 
Two nylon screws allow me to adjust the angle of the template relative to the router table, thereby creating the angle needed for each beam due to the sheer. I used to use an angle gauge held against the drawings and then against the jig, but now I can get the angle off the CAD drawings, and use a digital angle gauge to measure as I turn the nylon screws.
 

 
And then finally, a third piece of plywood is screwed down with the black plastic knobs, to provide a clamp to the workpiece (a scrap strip of wood the same thickness as the beams is put in the clamp at the opposite side to keep the upper plywood piece parallel to the template). We see it set up here with the first cut ready to go.
 

 
And then the template is run against a piloted router bit in the router table.
 

 
It took a bit of work to get all of the jig parts to work, but once set up, it allows a very rapid and precise cutting of beams, each one tailored to its unique location in the sheer, and with parallel surfaces of the correct radius. Here are (from top to bottom) the beams for the forecastle, the quarterdeck, and the upper deck, including the half beams at the aft end of the upper deck.
 

 
I took extra care in marking out on each beam which edge should be convex, and also the direction of the angle on the end. The danger of a jig is that you automatically cut, remove, add next, cut, remove, etc. and it is so easy to get things turned around if you are not scrupulous about keeping everything in the same order. Having a visual clue to the correct orientation when putting in a blank helps keep things straight.
 
Once each set of beams for a given deck was complete, I took the jig apart, recut the concave and convex edges with the radiuses required for the next deck, and then put it all back together again.
 
Those with a mathematical outlook will realize that my upper and lower surfaces are not exactly concentric, since they are the same radius but the moulded distance of the beam apart. I decided at this scale that it would not be significant.
 
 
So my only remaining challenge is how to store all of these beams so they don't warp. How does one sticker so many small pieces?🙂
 
Mark
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

good evening everyone
Day 60
most of the after 1/2 deck bulkheads are now made up, although they seam ok, nut im so very tempted to do it all again, 
 
to get a feel for the finished look, im adapting the deck beams to make it all fit

good evening everyone
 
day 61 still on after 1/2 deck
 
i dont think i have ever been on a small project for so long, well not since the copper plates and the gun ports, (i still loose sleep over them) on the 1/72 Victory, lol, that seams so very long time ago, infact that was april 2011
it was make or break time this afternoon, commit to the work that i have prepared, or do the bulkheads again, this time with a bit of depth to them
the reason for not doing that, was that very little of the bulkheads will be seen, and in a few months time none of this will be either, unless i remove some of the frames 
the adapted lower deck beams that will be fitting over the area were checked
paper tape removed and i started to put the bulkheads in place, test fitting the deck beams as i go along, and adapting where necessary
 

Cheers everyone, grateful for the continued interest to keep some wind in the sails...
 
@Kevin - I think you and I have similar workstyles, the difference though is that you get a lot more done!
 
Rigging Update...
 
As previously mentioned, rigging just does not lend itself to updates as there always seems to be just one more job to complete before an update would be appropriate.  Pretty much all rigging in the main and mizzen mast areas is complete.  This definitely required some planning ahead to ensure room to work.  The main topgallant braces were the last added as the place seriously limits access in an already tight space.  Also redid a few completed rigging items in the bowsprit that have been bothering me, but before starting rigging in earnest, I felt the old girl needed a fairlead saddle.  After trying, unsuccessfully to make something out of wood, I found that gluing a couple of styrene strips together and then bending around a dowel while steaming kept the styrene with the right curve.  The profile could then be better approximated and the hole drilled...far from perfect but looks OK to the unaided eye (the paint was used at this point only to get some contrast on the surface).  One item that continues to annoy me is the application of a single 'bee' as per the plans.  I can find no other example of this and it just doesn't seem correct, and means that a fore topmast preventer stay cannot be rigged, but sadly that is just not fixable at this point...

Bowsprit rigging:
The bowsprit rigging shown on the plans has to be the least clear of any on this model, and it seems to have been significantly simplified to the point of non-utility/confusion in a couple of cases.  I've decided to follow Lever and Lees (an excellent reference!) and leverage Petersson.  Any mistakes in interpretation and execution are of course my own...
 
I also felt that Snake deserves a 'traveller' (the jib stay being completely omitted from the plans) which needed to be installed before the jib boom horses.  This was made from a single brass wire ring, a spare PE rigging hook, and mutilated PE swivel mount.  This was my first attempt at soldering, which let me know in no uncertain terms that I have much to learn!  The hook is a little big, but looks acceptable to my eye once fully installed.
Moving on to the various rigging elements...
Spritsail sling:  The sling was made of a served line and fitted according to Lever and Lees - essentially the same as for the yard slings. Spritsail stirrups and horses: These were all fitted in situ once the spritsail yard was installed to ensure the stirrups hung vertically Jib Boom Horses: (Lees P51) Secured to eyes in the bowsprit cap, and lashed around the end of the jib boom Inner/Outer Martingales:  There does not seem to be single definitive reference to help, and it seemed necessary to piece together info from a variety of sources.  Lees indicates the late 18th/early 19th century was period of rapid changes in dolphin striker/bowsprit rigging over a pretty condensed 20yr period.  I decided to rig 2 martingales.  The inner martingale was seized around the traveler, and the outer martingale seized around the jib boom end.  Both were taken through blocks lashed to opposite sides of the bowsprit to lead them over the spritsail yard, and secured using a gun tackle setup to a timberhead. Jib Stay: (Petersson P19) A block was added to the fore topgallant mast to carry the jib stay, one end lashed to the traveler and the other secured via a tackle to inboard starboard pin rail. Fore Topgallant Stay: (Petersson P61) Led through an eye seized to the bowsprit end and secured to the stay using thimbles, a collar and a lashing which was frapped. Jib Outhaul: (Petersson P21 & P62) One end seized to the traveller, led through a sheave cut into the bowsprit to a tackle.  Petersson indicates use of a violin block, Lever suggest use of both a violin and a double block system.  For a bit of variety (and because I’ve become increasingly unhappy with the look of the supplied items), a double block system was used and this was secured to a timberhead. Jib Boom Guys: Seized around jib boom end and secured using a gun tackle to a cleat on the capping rail Spritsail Yard Halliard: (Petersson P59) Secured to a timberhead per Petersson, rather than pin rail as called out on the plans. Spritsail Braces: (Petersson P47) Plans are reasonably Spritsail lifts: (Lever Ch40, Petersson P64 and plans) Secured to timberhead per Petersson, rather than pin rail as called out on the plans. Bowsprit horses and netting: (Petersson P91, Lees 84) The location of the eyebolts seems to be shown both on the front face and top of the timberheads, and settled on the top mounted option.  These were simplified a little to and simply seized to the eyes rather than using an eye and lashing. The bowsprit netting was made from two brass wire pieces fed through the line, which were secured with some fine thread.  This was then suspended using a couple of clamps on the keel former offcut from "Jason", which allowed the ropes to be secured and wrapped around the wire.  Each turn was secured before moving onto the next.  It helped having this under slight tension throughout.  

The following show how everything ended up....

And finally...the overall state of where things stand:

 

Its been tough with shrouds and deadeyes. Half of the i had to redo. Cant get them to align perfectly.
Heres the progress so far. 
I hope after 1-2 days i can see if they will stay as i put them and i can seize the ropes.
 
For next update they should be done  

And what is this calamity?  I'm coming to that, but before I do there is the vexed issue of deck planking layout.  As @BenD explains, the original ship did not have evenly spaced deck beams, and if you look at his, or just about anyone else's logs, having the joins in the deck planks line up gives a very pleasing effect, but they are meant to line up where the beams are.  So, choose an arbitrary beam spacing - and then struggle that the implied positions seem to go straight through the hatch openings - or try to recreate the original?
 
I printed out the plan from the NMM (or RMG as they want now to be known  - bah!).  Measured the distances of the beams from the bow then scaled that to the length of the deck of the model.  For the fore-part of the ship that worked just about perfectly and the lines drawn on the deck below are pretty-much what I calculated and give excellent registration with the hatches and masts.  The beam at the main mast was a little off and things got further off from there on.  However a little bit of adjustment gave a reasonably uniform pattern as shown.  With 22 spans and a deck length of 32 m, that gives a span of 1.45 m, and using the 1-3-5-2-4 pattern shown, that's an average plank length of 7.27 m or 23.9 ft, which the historians on this site seem to think reasonable
 
So, deck marked up, I'm good to install

 
Fits tightly, but well.  Doesn't lie snug against the bulkheads without downward pressure, so at least 3 pins per are needed.  Which is a lot of 0.5 mm holes to drill, and I only have one drill bit.  Fortunately there's a tool for that:

It's an attachment for a Dremel - or should I say the Dremel is an attachment for it -  making what I would call a drill press, or the English, a pillar drill.  33 perfectly vertical hoes drilled, no bits broken.  Compare with my last project where I went at about one broken bit per hole, this is progress.

And there they are.  Note,  I put in a few extras without drill, and each went in crooked emerging from the side of the ply bulkheads

And so here comes the calamity and the consequence of the slight kink in the level of the false keel, or rather, the other way round.
 
When doing the first rough sanding of the bulkheads I did the inevitable present-a-strip of planking, and something towards the stern was not quite right.  At first, as many who have come before me have said,  I thought frame 9 was toolow.  But after prodding it for some time I came to the view that in fact frame 12 was too low - which I now attribute to the false keel being slightly too high at that point.  Anyway this shows clearly enough that on a smooth curve, the strip sits away from the frame.

 
But there's a simply remedy to that.  Attach a couple of strips of wood either side, sand down to the correct thickness.  Easy. But not quite.  The tightness of the curve meant that the strips needed to be pinned in place, and, for whatever reasons the pins did not want to go in (I have a theory that 0.5 mm diameter in wet wood was not large enough, or that I was cocky after the success of drilling and pinning the deck), one of the pins bent, the PIN PUSHER SLIPPED OFF THE PIN, DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BULKHEAD AND SMASHED A HOLE THROUGH THE DECK.
 
I may have called out as the Admiral came running upstairs to enquire after my health, and when I explained, she asked what the second noise was - err, throwing the tool across the room.  I was so distressed I couldn't bring myself to photograph it until I was half-way through repairing it.  The result was a jagged hole about 20 x15 mm with the layers of ply torn apart.  I pulled most of the plies out, coated each with PVA, re-inserted them and then clamped the whole mess between two piece of scrap, each wrapped in sticky tape.  The result, amazingly, is this:

 
Lucky boy - larger drill bit next time, and a gentle touch with the pin pusher.
 
So to complete this post, the extra thickness on frame 12 has done the job,


 

Nice update, some nice rigging you have going on there.  I would definitely echo Joe's good advice, especially with the variable quality of kit supplied rope you are using.  In my experience, the kit supplied rope can continue to stretch after it is placed in constant tension.  As I'm finishing up rigging Snake, I've been taking the approach of installing the various rigging elements and leaving them under small amount of tension for at least a day or two before finally securing.

Thank you Glenn, Erik, and John.
@ Glenn - The losses suffered by those small fishing communities make for sobering reading.
In one notable storm in October 1881 189 men were lost, 129 from one community leaving 263 children fatherless. No social security in those days.
The possibility is real that many of the boats lost were rendered unmanageable owing to crews being weakened  through  men washed overboard.  Losses overboard were an ever present danger.
 
@ Erik - I think I'll leave the stem plate unpainted, I do like the look of blackened metal.
 
@ John -  Coming from an old salt like you, that's good to know. 😀
 
Post 32
Bobstay sheave
 
Situated on the starboard side of the stem is a sheave to carry the Bobstay.
 The kit provides a simplified etched piece (PE11) referred to as a stem cleat.
 I replaced it with a scratched version based on the Underhill drawings.

8487(2)

8493(2)
 Silver soldered together from thin brass strip and micro tubing.
 

8504

8501

8507
Competed and chemically blackened.
 

8512(2)
In checking over the inboard fittings I realised I had forgotten to make the Mizen halyard sheaves so two of these were made in the same fashion as the Bobstay sheave.
Rope stopper
 
The Underhill plan shows these lines spliced around the stringers both port & starboard ahead of the Fore and Mizen halyard sheaves.
 

8532
In use they are bent to the falls of purchase with a rolling or stopper hitch and take the strain while the running end of the fall is taken off the capstan and belayed to the cleat.

8515
In the absence of any other information I have used Syren 0.63mm ø line. which looked about right to my eye.
 

8529
Not an anchor chain but the Bowsprit necklace chain that will be trimmed to length once the Bowsprit is fitted.
 

8535
All the Foredeck fittings are now in place.


 
B.E.

04/11/20

Masts are in place. Didn’t glue them as they fit quite tight and thought maybe there is a reason in future to remove those then its easier.
 
before that i went trough once again all rigging drawings tonsee if ik miasing something-found few blocks and predrilled holes for eyelets. Will add those little later together with blocks.
 
Started with shrouds and then ship really started to become alive. Also put 2 deadeyes to test how it goes-real time consuming. But henerally good for first try i would say.
 
QUESTION: how stiff should the shrouds be? Like quitar string and just a slight tension?
 
Admirals orders were to clean up shipyard - did that also. Looks much more nicer now  
 
Any feedback appriciated about shrouds etc.
 
 

Those look fine. 
 
I would have left the lanyards long/un-cut for now until after you install the stays in case you need to balance tension. 
 
Just make sure when you put the stays on you don't slacken the shrouds. 

I always marvel at your updates Thomas, such a beautiful model...thanks for sharing.

Fascinating research and excellent execution, the usual perfect combination.  I to very much like weathered/grimy look on the funnels, and the colour tones blend very nicely and look very authentic.  Very impressed with your silver soldering results, dipping my toes into that a little myself...safe to say still at the bottom of learning curve.