Beef Wellington

Cheers everyone, grateful for the continued interest to keep some wind in the sails...
 
@Kevin - I think you and I have similar workstyles, the difference though is that you get a lot more done!
 
Rigging Update...
 
As previously mentioned, rigging just does not lend itself to updates as there always seems to be just one more job to complete before an update would be appropriate.  Pretty much all rigging in the main and mizzen mast areas is complete.  This definitely required some planning ahead to ensure room to work.  The main topgallant braces were the last added as the place seriously limits access in an already tight space.  Also redid a few completed rigging items in the bowsprit that have been bothering me, but before starting rigging in earnest, I felt the old girl needed a fairlead saddle.  After trying, unsuccessfully to make something out of wood, I found that gluing a couple of styrene strips together and then bending around a dowel while steaming kept the styrene with the right curve.  The profile could then be better approximated and the hole drilled...far from perfect but looks OK to the unaided eye (the paint was used at this point only to get some contrast on the surface).  One item that continues to annoy me is the application of a single 'bee' as per the plans.  I can find no other example of this and it just doesn't seem correct, and means that a fore topmast preventer stay cannot be rigged, but sadly that is just not fixable at this point...

Bowsprit rigging:
The bowsprit rigging shown on the plans has to be the least clear of any on this model, and it seems to have been significantly simplified to the point of non-utility/confusion in a couple of cases.  I've decided to follow Lever and Lees (an excellent reference!) and leverage Petersson.  Any mistakes in interpretation and execution are of course my own...
 
I also felt that Snake deserves a 'traveller' (the jib stay being completely omitted from the plans) which needed to be installed before the jib boom horses.  This was made from a single brass wire ring, a spare PE rigging hook, and mutilated PE swivel mount.  This was my first attempt at soldering, which let me know in no uncertain terms that I have much to learn!  The hook is a little big, but looks acceptable to my eye once fully installed.
Moving on to the various rigging elements...
Spritsail sling:  The sling was made of a served line and fitted according to Lever and Lees - essentially the same as for the yard slings. Spritsail stirrups and horses: These were all fitted in situ once the spritsail yard was installed to ensure the stirrups hung vertically Jib Boom Horses: (Lees P51) Secured to eyes in the bowsprit cap, and lashed around the end of the jib boom Inner/Outer Martingales:  There does not seem to be single definitive reference to help, and it seemed necessary to piece together info from a variety of sources.  Lees indicates the late 18th/early 19th century was period of rapid changes in dolphin striker/bowsprit rigging over a pretty condensed 20yr period.  I decided to rig 2 martingales.  The inner martingale was seized around the traveler, and the outer martingale seized around the jib boom end.  Both were taken through blocks lashed to opposite sides of the bowsprit to lead them over the spritsail yard, and secured using a gun tackle setup to a timberhead. Jib Stay: (Petersson P19) A block was added to the fore topgallant mast to carry the jib stay, one end lashed to the traveler and the other secured via a tackle to inboard starboard pin rail. Fore Topgallant Stay: (Petersson P61) Led through an eye seized to the bowsprit end and secured to the stay using thimbles, a collar and a lashing which was frapped. Jib Outhaul: (Petersson P21 & P62) One end seized to the traveller, led through a sheave cut into the bowsprit to a tackle.  Petersson indicates use of a violin block, Lever suggest use of both a violin and a double block system.  For a bit of variety (and because I’ve become increasingly unhappy with the look of the supplied items), a double block system was used and this was secured to a timberhead. Jib Boom Guys: Seized around jib boom end and secured using a gun tackle to a cleat on the capping rail Spritsail Yard Halliard: (Petersson P59) Secured to a timberhead per Petersson, rather than pin rail as called out on the plans. Spritsail Braces: (Petersson P47) Plans are reasonably Spritsail lifts: (Lever Ch40, Petersson P64 and plans) Secured to timberhead per Petersson, rather than pin rail as called out on the plans. Bowsprit horses and netting: (Petersson P91, Lees 84) The location of the eyebolts seems to be shown both on the front face and top of the timberheads, and settled on the top mounted option.  These were simplified a little to and simply seized to the eyes rather than using an eye and lashing. The bowsprit netting was made from two brass wire pieces fed through the line, which were secured with some fine thread.  This was then suspended using a couple of clamps on the keel former offcut from "Jason", which allowed the ropes to be secured and wrapped around the wire.  Each turn was secured before moving onto the next.  It helped having this under slight tension throughout.  

The following show how everything ended up....

And finally...the overall state of where things stand:

 

Its been tough with shrouds and deadeyes. Half of the i had to redo. Cant get them to align perfectly.
Heres the progress so far. 
I hope after 1-2 days i can see if they will stay as i put them and i can seize the ropes.
 
For next update they should be done  

And what is this calamity?  I'm coming to that, but before I do there is the vexed issue of deck planking layout.  As @BenD explains, the original ship did not have evenly spaced deck beams, and if you look at his, or just about anyone else's logs, having the joins in the deck planks line up gives a very pleasing effect, but they are meant to line up where the beams are.  So, choose an arbitrary beam spacing - and then struggle that the implied positions seem to go straight through the hatch openings - or try to recreate the original?
 
I printed out the plan from the NMM (or RMG as they want now to be known  - bah!).  Measured the distances of the beams from the bow then scaled that to the length of the deck of the model.  For the fore-part of the ship that worked just about perfectly and the lines drawn on the deck below are pretty-much what I calculated and give excellent registration with the hatches and masts.  The beam at the main mast was a little off and things got further off from there on.  However a little bit of adjustment gave a reasonably uniform pattern as shown.  With 22 spans and a deck length of 32 m, that gives a span of 1.45 m, and using the 1-3-5-2-4 pattern shown, that's an average plank length of 7.27 m or 23.9 ft, which the historians on this site seem to think reasonable
 
So, deck marked up, I'm good to install

 
Fits tightly, but well.  Doesn't lie snug against the bulkheads without downward pressure, so at least 3 pins per are needed.  Which is a lot of 0.5 mm holes to drill, and I only have one drill bit.  Fortunately there's a tool for that:

It's an attachment for a Dremel - or should I say the Dremel is an attachment for it -  making what I would call a drill press, or the English, a pillar drill.  33 perfectly vertical hoes drilled, no bits broken.  Compare with my last project where I went at about one broken bit per hole, this is progress.

And there they are.  Note,  I put in a few extras without drill, and each went in crooked emerging from the side of the ply bulkheads

And so here comes the calamity and the consequence of the slight kink in the level of the false keel, or rather, the other way round.
 
When doing the first rough sanding of the bulkheads I did the inevitable present-a-strip of planking, and something towards the stern was not quite right.  At first, as many who have come before me have said,  I thought frame 9 was toolow.  But after prodding it for some time I came to the view that in fact frame 12 was too low - which I now attribute to the false keel being slightly too high at that point.  Anyway this shows clearly enough that on a smooth curve, the strip sits away from the frame.

 
But there's a simply remedy to that.  Attach a couple of strips of wood either side, sand down to the correct thickness.  Easy. But not quite.  The tightness of the curve meant that the strips needed to be pinned in place, and, for whatever reasons the pins did not want to go in (I have a theory that 0.5 mm diameter in wet wood was not large enough, or that I was cocky after the success of drilling and pinning the deck), one of the pins bent, the PIN PUSHER SLIPPED OFF THE PIN, DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BULKHEAD AND SMASHED A HOLE THROUGH THE DECK.
 
I may have called out as the Admiral came running upstairs to enquire after my health, and when I explained, she asked what the second noise was - err, throwing the tool across the room.  I was so distressed I couldn't bring myself to photograph it until I was half-way through repairing it.  The result was a jagged hole about 20 x15 mm with the layers of ply torn apart.  I pulled most of the plies out, coated each with PVA, re-inserted them and then clamped the whole mess between two piece of scrap, each wrapped in sticky tape.  The result, amazingly, is this:

 
Lucky boy - larger drill bit next time, and a gentle touch with the pin pusher.
 
So to complete this post, the extra thickness on frame 12 has done the job,


 

Nice update, some nice rigging you have going on there.  I would definitely echo Joe's good advice, especially with the variable quality of kit supplied rope you are using.  In my experience, the kit supplied rope can continue to stretch after it is placed in constant tension.  As I'm finishing up rigging Snake, I've been taking the approach of installing the various rigging elements and leaving them under small amount of tension for at least a day or two before finally securing.

Thank you Glenn, Erik, and John.
@ Glenn - The losses suffered by those small fishing communities make for sobering reading.
In one notable storm in October 1881 189 men were lost, 129 from one community leaving 263 children fatherless. No social security in those days.
The possibility is real that many of the boats lost were rendered unmanageable owing to crews being weakened  through  men washed overboard.  Losses overboard were an ever present danger.
 
@ Erik - I think I'll leave the stem plate unpainted, I do like the look of blackened metal.
 
@ John -  Coming from an old salt like you, that's good to know. 😀
 
Post 32
Bobstay sheave
 
Situated on the starboard side of the stem is a sheave to carry the Bobstay.
 The kit provides a simplified etched piece (PE11) referred to as a stem cleat.
 I replaced it with a scratched version based on the Underhill drawings.

8487(2)

8493(2)
 Silver soldered together from thin brass strip and micro tubing.
 

8504

8501

8507
Competed and chemically blackened.
 

8512(2)
In checking over the inboard fittings I realised I had forgotten to make the Mizen halyard sheaves so two of these were made in the same fashion as the Bobstay sheave.
Rope stopper
 
The Underhill plan shows these lines spliced around the stringers both port & starboard ahead of the Fore and Mizen halyard sheaves.
 

8532
In use they are bent to the falls of purchase with a rolling or stopper hitch and take the strain while the running end of the fall is taken off the capstan and belayed to the cleat.

8515
In the absence of any other information I have used Syren 0.63mm ø line. which looked about right to my eye.
 

8529
Not an anchor chain but the Bowsprit necklace chain that will be trimmed to length once the Bowsprit is fitted.
 

8535
All the Foredeck fittings are now in place.


 
B.E.

04/11/20

Masts are in place. Didn’t glue them as they fit quite tight and thought maybe there is a reason in future to remove those then its easier.
 
before that i went trough once again all rigging drawings tonsee if ik miasing something-found few blocks and predrilled holes for eyelets. Will add those little later together with blocks.
 
Started with shrouds and then ship really started to become alive. Also put 2 deadeyes to test how it goes-real time consuming. But henerally good for first try i would say.
 
QUESTION: how stiff should the shrouds be? Like quitar string and just a slight tension?
 
Admirals orders were to clean up shipyard - did that also. Looks much more nicer now  
 
Any feedback appriciated about shrouds etc.
 
 

Those look fine. 
 
I would have left the lanyards long/un-cut for now until after you install the stays in case you need to balance tension. 
 
Just make sure when you put the stays on you don't slacken the shrouds. 

I always marvel at your updates Thomas, such a beautiful model...thanks for sharing.

Fascinating research and excellent execution, the usual perfect combination.  I to very much like weathered/grimy look on the funnels, and the colour tones blend very nicely and look very authentic.  Very impressed with your silver soldering results, dipping my toes into that a little myself...safe to say still at the bottom of learning curve.

Hi Folks,  have been away from the shipyard and this site for quite some time, and I've missed the friendly interaction.  Looking forward to catching up with everyone's builds soon!
 
@Martin - welcome to the neighborhood!  We got lucky and didn't lose power in the storms, hope you stayed safe.  We definitely need to connect at some point so I can pick your brains 🙂
@ Sjors - Good to hear from you old friend, its been a while!  Will check out your new model soon.
@ Stergios - the yards were rigged from bottom to top.  Not sure if that is the recommended way, but it made sense to me to do that way because the lower masts require quite a few items of rigging to be in place near the mast and it seemed that this would be harder if the lines from the top masts were getting in the way.  Maybe personal preference?
 
The cutter has finally been finished and the details of the final stages of construction are posted in my 'Jason' build log.  Figuring out where to place the cutter onboard Snake was a little bit of a challenge.  It seems inconceivable that a ship (sloop) like Snake would not have at least one boat, but there is simply no space to place one.  I could find no examples of solutions to this in practice (recognizing that other ships may well have had raised davits), and it seems somewhat logical to mount the supports on the coamings which would also be supported by the deck beams underneath.  Finally in position, its clear that even a modest 24' cutter has little room to spare.
 
With that done, now rigging can continue, hopefully some progress possible soon...
 

Finally the changes to the stern of my Syren are finished. The gun ports are closed (img 1), the long guns are back in place and rigged (imgs 2 and 3), and the jolly boat is in its final position (imgs 4 – 8).
 
Thomas
 

Img_01
 

Img_02
 

Img_03
 

Img_04
 

Img_05
 

Img_06
 

Img_07
 

Img_08
 
 

Thanks for looking in Moab and for your kind comment, and ditto Grant and John, much appreciated.


 
Thank you Jason and Bob.
I’m no expert on Silver soldering but using the paste in a syringe is a great help.

Basic silver soldering is quite easy, things like making strops and joining rings are quickly picked up.

The main things to consider are:

 Having the metals clean.

 Working out how you are going to secure the parts during the process.

Ensuring a close connection, Silver solder has no gap filling qualities.

As soon as the silver flashes, the job is done, remove part and dip.

If you want to join more than one part to another, you will need different melt point pastes, so that the first isn’t melted when the second is attached.

The piece I was most pleased with was adding two small rings at right angles to a stanchion for the guard rails on my Pegasus build.

Cheers,
 
B.E.

Fascinating research and excellent execution, the usual perfect combination.  I to very much like weathered/grimy look on the funnels, and the colour tones blend very nicely and look very authentic.  Very impressed with your silver soldering results, dipping my toes into that a little myself...safe to say still at the bottom of learning curve.

Fascinating research and excellent execution, the usual perfect combination.  I to very much like weathered/grimy look on the funnels, and the colour tones blend very nicely and look very authentic.  Very impressed with your silver soldering results, dipping my toes into that a little myself...safe to say still at the bottom of learning curve.

Post 29
Steam Capstan
 
The primary fitting on the Poop is the steam capstan, an eye catching feature which also is supplied with the Fifie kit.
 
Assembly is quite straightforward, built on a central spindle which represents the steam pipe running up the centre of the capstan.
 
For the colour scheme I have used Humbrol enamel (120 Light Green.)
I did chemically blacken the brass etch which provides a good  primer for the paint.
 
The steam capstan was introduced in 1884 by a company called Elliott and Garrood, a development that the crews of fishing boats must have been eternally grateful for when it came to raising that huge fore lug sail.
 

8296(3)
There is however a difference to the gearbox detail on the Underhill plans, compared to the kit, confirmed by photo’s of Muirneag.
 
Nothing to be lost by having a go to replicate the detail, if all else fails I can revert to the kit part.
 
Working at 1:64 scale presents more of a challenge and the most difficult task is fabricating the gear wheel guard.
 
 
Here once again 0.20mm brass fret came into use.
The pattern was cut out and a piece of narrow strip was silver soldered around the edge.
 

8299(2)
The Blu tack holds the parts in position for soldering.


8304(2)
This turned out far better than I thought it might and resulted in a strong bond.


8352(2)

8358(2)
The gearbox casing is chemically blackened.



8328
The large gear wheel was made from the brass etched end of a depth charge.

 

8376
 

8383(2)

8368

8342
This completes the Poop deck fittings for the present.


 
B.E.

26/10/20

 

Post 24
 
 
Fitting out the Poop
 
I am now into my favourite part of a build, fiddling with the fittings.
The Poop deck has a wealth of detail, the positions of which I now need to fix.
The kit contains all the right features but not necessarily in the right layout for Muirneag.(apologies to Morecambe and Wise)
The Mizen mast is square at the partners which were scratched to suit, and the other fittings positions were tweaked to reflect the layout on the Underhill plans.
The kit warp hatch rollers seem to be rather stylised and are represented by etched housings sitting above the level of the coamings covering most of the hatch space.
I was able to utilise the provided coaming which is about right for scale, but I had to enlarge the hatchway slightly to accommodate carlings below the coamings to allow for the rollers to be set lower within the hatchway.

8181
False carlings were glued beneath the hatch coamings which were drilled to take short lengths of 0.5mm brass wire passed thro’ 1mm brass tubing from side to side to secure the rollers.

8177
Completed Warp Hatch in place.
 

8174
Also in this photo the makings for slightly beefed up mast partners, the now defunct kit part can be seen on the Poop deck aft of the mast.
 

8215
The mast partners were remade using spare 3mm Pearwood from the kit fret.
 

8217
All the spare wood around the laser cut parts comes in handy for scratching alternative parts.
With the Warp hatch and partners glued into place, the position of the crutch can be determined.
 

8225
The crutch which supported the lowered Fore mast is nicely pre-made in Pearwood and on Muirneag sits immediately to the starboard side of the Mizen, rather than just aft of the partners as indicated on the kit.
The Underhill plan indicates a height of 8’ 2” = to 38.9mm at scale. The kit part is pretty much spot on for this.

8226
I used a section of square brass tubing to provide a socket to take the Crutch.

8229
These Swann- Morton micro chisels prove invaluable in cutting small holes.
The Boiler flue is provided in the form of Aluminium tubing and a circular etched brass base plate.

8224(2)
I have modified this to accord with the Underhill plans where the flue base is a concrete square set in a wooden frame.
The smaller stove flue was modified to fit a cowl over the top.
 
Blackening Aluminium doesn’t seem to work as well as on brass, and I do have a jar of Aluminium specific blackener.

8287
May need to re-visit the finish on the flues, but a part of me quite likes the weather beaten look.
 
 

8283
The partly completed capstan in place, I have been looking at photo’s of the capstan on Muirneag, and I feel the urge to have a tweak with the gearbox……
 
 
B.E.
25/10/20
 

Post 23
Detailing the internal stern area.


 
On the real boat a 1” thick iron strip ran from the stem along the keel and up the stern post where it was riveted to the head of the sternpost.

 
This was fitted as protection when grounding.

 
The kit provides a nicely etched Bow plate which replicates the stem iron but is not carried around the keel or sternpost.

 
The flange on top of the stern post would be visible so I replicated one.
8136
I used the 0.20mm brass fret from around the decoration etch of my Pegasus kit to make the plate. This was then chemically blackened.


8142(2)
The stern area nearing completion.

A coat of wip has been applied to the stern woodwork.

The iron stern plate has been pinned into position

Along the Starboard doubler at the stern are three iron plates which take sockets for items I’ve yet to understand the purpose of.

8155(2)
The kit provided Coal bunker hatch is inset into the deck.
A nice little item this, once blackened it looks the part.


8170
The smaller and plainer pump deck plate can be seen forward on the starboard side just aft of the mast partners.

 

8146(2)
At the bow there are two knees to be fixed.


8161(2)
Usually I seal the deck with a flat water-based varnish but I have decided to leave it unsealed.
The Boxwood planking will darken with age which is my intention.


8163(2)
Yet another fill, sand, and repaint job needed to improve the rail finish but hull completion is not far away.


 
B.E.

22/10/20

I attached the woolding by just seizing the line around the mast, leaving it loose to slide into position, tighten, trim ends and wash with dilute PVA. Job done. 

Okay - 6 weeks have passed from since my last update; I guess the fact that I just grab and hour here or an hour there is not conducive to regular detailed blog entries.  To be honest, I sit in the shadows watching the slickness of Rob's (ETHALION) and Jason's (JASON) efforts, complemented with stunning photos, that  I'm not sure I have that much to add!  
 
Anyway, I have finished the bulk of the hull - lots of tiddling up to do - so I have moved onto the masts...the boats can wait!  I haven't made masts of this stature before so it was a journey of discovery trying to work out how to make square ends, octagonal sections and to taper masts to the correct diameter size.  
 
I started with square ends at the mast head.  To cut? to plane? to sand?   I did the latter.  I found the centre of the dowel and then marked (using my little lathe) the parallel lines that formed the square., cutting the four shallow arcs with my razor saw to help guide the process    I then sanded carefully, constantly checking the line was not being overstepped and that the shape was correct.  Patience was rewarded and they came out okay.   

Thanks Jason, and to everyone who's spurred this project on with likes and encouragement!
 
The boats have taken a bit of a pause, but I do have a little progress to report.
 
The mainmast ratlines are complete *he pauses to celebrate!* - given how much my arms were aching, I may need to move the model down a little (or get a taller chair!) before I get too much stuck into the topmast ratlines!


  I've also spent a fair bit of time putting all the fittings and detail onto the the yards, along with the rigging blocks. I'm about half way through, but the most detailed yards - the main and fore mainyards are complete. I used black card on the studding sail booms, as this seemed more to scale than the chunky white metal rings. They were fiddly little blighters to get fixed in place, but I'm pleased with the end result. 
 

 

 
The stirrups are made out of jewellery wire. I've used it before, and it seems to do a nice job, and needs no painting afterwards, which prevents me making a goof-up.
 
Here's a final shot of how she stands as of yesterday evening... the captain wouldn't be pleased - the yards are just pinned, and are all ahoo (made worse with the wide angle) - but once the lifts get added, that'll improve a lot, I'm sure :)
 

 
Happy building, all!
 
Rob

Your rigging follows the whole nature of your build - clean, precise and extremely well done! It is a pleasure to follow your progress!
 
Thomas

Obviously progress has been very slow - largely self-inflicted.  The main yard has been a nightmare.  A few things that I did some time ago have come back to bite.  First, replacing the poor quality 1.5mm ply bibbs with 2mm strip.  This of course meant that the mast is 1mm wider than specified.  Second, the main stay is specified as 1.3mm thread.  The Syren thread comes as either 1.14or 1.37mm.  I originally chose the 1.14mm stuff.  It was suggested (rightly) that the thicker thread would look more authentic.  I then replaced the 1.14mm thread with the 1.37mm (which looked far better). However I eventually measured the 1.37 thread to be closer to 1.5mm.  I then served the eye and the mouse which made the stay thicker still.  All of this looked just fine.

Now come the problems.  The jeer  blocks had been installed earlier according to specification.  However with the extra thickness of the mast and the eye, the upper (double) block was fouled by the eye.  The top blocks therefore had to be lowered.  This meant that the blocks had to cut off, then replaced with longer drops - which turned out to be far, far easier said ....
 
Moreover the thread for the falls specified as 1mm (I used 0.88mm) did not seat properly (it's quite stiff) and had contributed to the fouling.  I replaced it with 0.63 thread which further improved things.  Fortunately the change is not noticeable.  In all, the overall result is reasonably adequate though I guess that's for others to judge.
 

 
I see I have just duplicated the photo.  I have no idea how.  In no particular order associated bits and pieces.
 
Below in the photo of the parrel, there is a small length of Tamiya tape attached to the thread which goes through the lower part of the parrel.  This both prevents the whole assembly coming off in the process of installation and identifies that is the lower thread. (It's easy to mix them up.)  With the crowded rigging around it, the installation is quite difficult.
 

 
 
The yard rings are really quite poorly designed.  To put top and bottom together reasonably securely and accurately, I ended up drilling holes in both, then inserting and gluing a piece of wire into the holes.  For the end ring, again a hole was drilled, wire inserted and bent to the appropriate shape.
 

 
Here is how they came out.  Incidentally, for the foot ropes, rather using wire for the drops, I used thread, consistent with anatomy of a ship.  Despite the photos the ropes now hang quite nicely.
 

 
 

 

 
 

Good evening everyone
Day 40 correction of transom, main deck and lower deck support beams
 
well i sorted the wrong bits out, and now everything is the same height (lol it may all be wrong, but the same wrong all over)

 
 
the main deck support is now right, i fully removed it to enable removal of cant 57, this allowed me to redo the lower deck support 

 
the 1/4 deck still needs to be adjusted but its ideal for keeping the after frames lined up
 
at present i am playing about with the 1/2 decks, but at the same time sorting the (limber boards) either side of the keel inside the hold

Bob, for what its worth, I'd vote for the thicker thread - purely because it may provides a little contrast to the other stays which will obviously thinner as they go up the mast.  Something that I find visually more satisfying for some reason.  Looking great BTW, don't beat yourself up over the serving!