Beef Wellington

Just checking Derek, is the vertical planking on the transom correct?
I've not seen that configuration before, if you visualise the real thing, the stern frames are vertical, the planking is usually horizontal.
 
B.E.

I will add in a few more first planking strips in future kits, as I always like to add more than enough of the base materials. If you had told me, I would have been more than happy to send a few more strips.
 
For the sanding of the hull, I now use a small electric mouse type sander for most of the hull, finishing with hand sanding.

Cheers Jim and the likes, and thanks Mort - unfortunately I'm way beyond that decision but something to think about for the future...
 
Rigging seems to be a little bit of a neglected area on this site, so wanted to post few pics of progress, for things specific to this kit where may be of help to others and also to hopefully capture where I've deviated from the plans.  Petersson has been INVALUABLE!
 
As a side note, I also nearly had a heart attack when I brought Snake outside for a few photos - I normally work in artificial light in my basement, and the natural light made all sorts of sorts of previously unseen 'fuzzies' VERY apparent.  I vow never to use kit supplied line again, but am committed to making it work here for consistency.  Will probably try brushing on some dilute PVA to try to tame them at some point.
 
I've found the following 3 scenarios to be common:
Plans are not clear - in these cases I've tried to follow Petersson Plans are clear enough and are somewhat consistent with Petersson - in these cases I've followed the plans but tweaked in some cases where it seems to make more sense Plans are clear enough, but differ from Petersson - in these cases I've followed the plans, unless Petersson seems more logical/elegant.  
Foreyard and Fore Topmast
 
Fore yard prior to installation.  Jeers and slings also pre-rigged


 
Foremast installed.  I used thicker line on the jeers (.75mm) as this seemed more in keeping with pictures I've found and attached round the yard following Petersson.   As expected, I found lashing the slings rather challenging.


I found the trusses could be made following plans and Petersson, but was the devil trying to get in place with all pendants and catharpins.  Truss in place (sorry picture is little blurry), I did not even attempt to put in the knave line!

 
Fore-topmast in place.  Found the parrals very fiddly to do, but they can be done according to Petersson.  I gave the parral beads a couple of goes in the drum sander to take off the shine and it gave a very pleasing result.

The fore-topsail yard tie and lifts were taken around the fore-topmast with an eye splice as per Petersson.


Belaying items for the foremast is rather challenging on Snake as the for'd bits are very close to the platform and leaves very little room for maneuver.  I also didn't make this any easier by belaying the hawsers around the bits either.

 
And finally, where things stand currently...I added flemish horses to the fore-topsail which are not identified in the Snake plans, but seem pretty ubiquitous and covered in Lever.

Finally...pretty much completed the coppering on the hull.  Only have the leading edge of the bow to go and I want to think about how to approach that, no urgency and should be relatively easy to do.  I followed the coppering pattern as shown in the  HMS Pandora AOTS book as there seems to be so little information around on how this was done.  Result came out pretty close.
 
Only other coppering to be done is the rudder, but this should be straight forward now, but I need to deal with the gudgeons and pintles first.  I'm also running worryingly low on copper plates, my numerous "re-dos" have caught up with me but still glad I did.  I've ordered some more just in case to avoid any work stoppage.

A big step forward, have started on the coppering. This has caused concerns because mistakes will be much harder to correct. However, it seems to be easier than I expected. I found the first row along the keel to be a challenging start because I had to bend the copper plates to follow the hull.
 
I'm using thick CA glue and no obvious problems so far. It seems to be difficult to know whether there is enough glue but the plates seem firmly attached. Don't think I've had any 'CA seepage' issues like others have described. Once placed I've been rubbing the plates with a soft cloth for 10-20 secs until its set to try and get the appropriate curvature, it also seems to polish each plate - I will leave to tarnish naturally, the polished finish shows the most microscopic misalignments.
 
In general, I've found the coppering to easier than I expected, really where the plates require simple glueing to the hull. That being said, the areas of detail have been killing me. Particularly challenging has been the lower bow area. Trying to get the copper plates to bend smoothly to conform with the hull has been pretty challenging. Add to that the need to trim the plates to shape has resulted in a lot of thought and reflection. I wanted to reflect the coppering as depicted on the majority of referennce materials, basically the plates on the hull follow the lines of the hull, but the plates on the stem continue parallel to the keel. This causes a gradually increasing seperation in the horizontal joint lines, but this is how it should be. The lines of the Snake make this very difficult to do (for me anyway!) and bring back the struggles of this area when doing the second planking. The approach I finally took was to trim the hull plates to shape at the stem, leaving a little overlap, and then curring another plate to shape to butt up against the line of the stem. Hopefully this will speed up as I get more proficient, but I'm OK with how things are looking - whichever way you tackle it, these copper plates are a challenge and I can see why the copper tape is a popular alternative.
 

...and the result with the new bow grating angle.
 
I lost the close up photo, but one thing you can just see in the bottom picture was the enlargement of the slots for the gammoning.  As supplied, these slots were not long enough to allow the gammoning to be done properly but it was pretty easy to extend these using a needle file.

Had a chance to finish up on the interior bulwarks. After painting red ochre, there were a number of cracks and splinters around gunports I wanted to tidy up. Used a quick drying light wood filler, minor sanding and a fresh coat of paint it looks much better (hard to tell from photos unusually!). I'm not looking to have a compeletely smooth finish as these seem to be a little less finished on real ships. I'll probably do a final coat once I've had chance to tidy up the exterior, but more to come on that...befor eand after are reversed, haven't figured out how to fix that yet.


 

Deck after finishing.  I'm planning to adjust the layout of the deck using the HMS Gannet/Bellete plans freely available for download from the NMM.  Decidied not to do any treenailing as I didn't think it really needed it as the deck seemed a nice backdrop for all the furniture to come, and its questionable whether these would be very visible at this scale...personal opinion only.

Cheers gents,
 
Small update reflecting this weekend's work.  Have been unsure what to do with the fore companion ladder and whether to include the safety lines and whether these would look right, but approaching point where decision is needed.  I seem to recall reading in TFFM that the hand ropes would have been secured to small ringbolts in the deck below (there really should be a word for the situation where you remember reading something but then are subsequently unable to find the reference when actually needed!).  Small PE ring bolts were used in the lower deck and 0.3mm line secured to them with a false splice.  RB Models stanchions were used as they seemed a little more to scale, rather than the kit supplied items which appeared too tall - these may not be completely period accurate, but are close enough to my eye. 
 
I feel there should also be something around the main hatch companion ladder, but cant quite see what this would look like, as the iron supports for the pumps are obstructions.
 
The only way I could figure out to install these was to estimate the length of line needed and then attach the ringbolts off the model to - I was anticipating many redoes here but luckily seemed to get it how I was hoping on the first attempt.  The location of the ringbolts was determined by dry fitting the companion ladder, the ladder only being finally installed once the hand ropes were all in position.
 

Very ingenious solution to the mast hoops, they look great.

The answers to many of our questions are found in Ordnance Instructions for the Unites States Navy (1860) which can be downloaded here:
 
https://archive.org/details/ordnanceinstruc00ordngoog
 
First of all, gun and train tackles were not removed before the gun was fired (pages 45 -47)! Up to the Ready/Fire commands the side tacklemen held the falls taut. At the command "fire!" side tacklemen dropped the tackle and falls and let them run to slow the recoil. The train tacklemen pulled on the falls to take up the slack as the gun recoiled, and then held the gun until it was loaded. However, the train tackle could be unhooked before firing in calm seas and then attached after recoil.
 
Note: The text describes when the gun tackles are hooked to the bulkheads and to the rings on the gun carriage, and which of the gun crew does each task. It never mentions unhooking the gun tackle until the gun is to be secured and stowed.
 
The gun was pointed by hauling it in to the extent allowed by the breeching line, and then one or the other side tackle was hauled in to swing the gun left or right (page 46). Here is a diagram showing pointing, firing and loading:
Breeching must be long enough to allow the gun to clear the gun port at least one foot when hauled fully inboard. Neither breeching nor tackle can be blackened or treated in any other way that reduces flexibility. They are to be made of manila or another pliable rope. (page 150).
 
I haven't read it all, but I couldn't find any description of how the gun tackle falls were to be secured/stowed when not in use. However, at the command "cast loose" the tackles were to be removed from stowage and then hooked to the bulwark and gun carriage. So apparently they were not hooked to the guns while they were stowed.

****
 
As far as placement of the ring bolts for the gun tackle on the bulwarks, the diagram above shows the attachment points spaced far from the gun port to allow a significant angle of pull on the tackle for pointing the gun. But most photos and drawings do not show them  as widely spaced as in the drawing above. I have also see (somewhere) a drawing showing double ring bolts for the train tackle on the bulwarks, on each side of the gun port, spaced fairly close together, in case one bolt fails.
 
In the description of how to point the gun it says the gunners used the handspikes to lever the gun left/right to assist the tackle. So it wasn't necessary for the gun tackles to be spaced widely as shown in the diagram above. The tackle could be used to hold and fine tune the point. The handspikes were also used to raise the breech to free the quoin so it could be repositiond to change the gun elevation.
 
One other detail I had been wondering about - the port tackle (for the gun port lid) was secured to a cleat on the inner top of the gun port. The door/lid was to be raised high to prevent damage from the blast of the gun. After each shot the port lids were closed to provide protection for the gun crews while they were reloading.
 
****
 
There is a lot of useful information in this document. It was written in 1855 and amended in 1860, but gunnery practices probably had not changed much in centuries except as new gun types were introduced. The referenced text describes practices for smooth bore muzzle loading guns.

Took the decision to leave the yards as the last act of the model.
Nowdays I'm working on the bowsprit fittings...

Hey There Jason ..  Ermmm  I may have slightly oversold my knowledge re Main Booms,  just slightly !  LOL (I would deffo recognise one though 😄 )
 
...  Here are a few photos.. Yup! Actual Photos Woo Hoo.
 
They are of The End of the Main Boom, a Sample Mast Hoop and The Boom support on the Mast with Mast Hoop for scale..
 
The photo of the Mast Hoop by itself is of the Hoop in its 'raw' state, made from wood shavings wrapped around a suitable sized dowel, in this case a round profile pencil, then glued..  Once the glue has set I put the whole assembly into a mini wood lathe and holding (carefully at both ends!) a craft knife I gently lowered the blade to the revolving pencil till the rings were separated..  It is un-sanded and pretty much straight from manufacture, I lightly cleaned it up and sanded it gently on the other photo, it still needs further sanding cleaning and staining.  I made approx 15 with this method in very short time, I will use the best 8 or so (further research needed here lol)
Any Questions please ask away.. Particularly about Ballahoo Schooner Booms circa 1805 😉  Spoiler Alert.. They are Wooden !
 
All The Very Best Folks And Thanks For Dropping By And Giving A Like..
 
Eamonn
 

Hi Stergios, wondering if you are still progressing on Snake?  Looking forward to seeing some more updates.  I'm setting myself the goal of finishing mine within next 3 months or so...

Hi Eamonn,
 
Please share pictures of the main boom to which you are the main boom expert, may come in handy as about to go there myself, or indeed any pictures of progress as long as they involve pins and clamps 🙂
 
All the best

Hi Folks..  Update Time Again ..  I have almost completed the Main Boom (after much research, then some more research for good measure.. am now widely acknowledged as the local authority on Schooner Booms circa 1805..  conclusion.. I can confirm they are the bits that stick out from the mast in a front/back direction 😉 😐) and decided to revisit my Mast Hoops, the original attempt was done quiet some time ago and though satisfied I'm by no means fully happy with them.. I have as we speak some newer versions done and variations on same using Cream coloured paper and also some long wood shavings made specifically.. (Hopes are high for the wood shavings.. there I said it !... Of course this has just put a jinx on them 😖 😇 )  I will post some photos shortly, or as soon as I clean off the work table cos right now the words Blast Radius apply to it with wood shavings all over the gaff (sic)
 
All The Best For Now
 
Eamonn .. The Ballahoo Main Boom Expert

hope this comes out, rigging and aerials left to do, then ballasting
 
video-1583430167.mp4

Hi Stergios, wondering if you are still progressing on Snake?  Looking forward to seeing some more updates.  I'm setting myself the goal of finishing mine within next 3 months or so...

Hi guys.
Some pics from my recent workout...
Now its time to find the more right place to fix the tackle for the gaff boom topping lifts: on the channell or on the deck... 

Hi there,
all you steam-paddle-boat lovers
since I was a teen I had an eye on this lovely boat.  It is the long time already out of production vintage Billing Boats kit named "HJEJLEN" Golden Plover, German : Goldregenpfeifer.
A few days ago I could hardly believe my luck in finding this offered complete kit-built boat, on Ebay, a bit damaged, together with a suit-taylored glass case, so I invested a drive to the seller in the region of Bremen area, and picked it up.
 
After thorough inspection back home I determined the minimum of parts and components required to restore and overhaul the charming old lady. I shall show the sequences of recovery and restoration in the next weeks to come, here in this tread.
As this will be no complete new build, but certainly worth an shorter thread on this forum, as I`m sure that there is interest for this model by the one or other fellow member.
Credit goes to the late father of the seller who built this steamer many years ago. It is known to be the oldest live steam, still cruising boat with passengers in the waters of Silkeborg in Denmark
 
Nils
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 

name giver birdie, Hjejlen, Golden plover, Goldregenpfeifer
 
 

Welcome to this topic Mark and Lars/Peter, and B.E.
and many thanks for your kind comments.
Also thanks to the "likes"
For this kit I`m missing the 2 bullseyes for sidewise in the front section of the hull, and the golden plover figurehead for the upper bow post. Alternative parts are now ordered. The stand looks quite flimsy, so I decided to make pedestals from brass / wooden candle holders with a shaped outcuts for the keel to fit into. Small M3 screws hold these pedestals  firmly to the keel. they will fit directly to the baseplate of the glass casing.
The two ( meanwhile come loose) paddle wheels were glued to the hull. Now both paddle wheels have become an brass axis between outside spashguards segments and the hull. I am intending to place crew and passengers on board, like I did wth the Bohuslän steamer. Its not easy to find the right scale figures, and there are so many non occupied benches. I placed the benches on the upper aft deck, turned around, now back to back 180°, so that the passengers will face the water side of the rivers and lakes for a better view. The roof of the front well also requires some additional holding posts, as the current ones are quite flimsy, and therefore the roof quite instable
Also the ships boat is not in correct scale, so there will be an alternative boat fitted under the davits....
 
Nils
 

this is the "old" stand
 

the wood / brass new pedestals
 

New pedestals fitted to the keel (they had to be low in hight, due to the limited glass case hight )
 

the new brass axis for the paddle wheels, also to make them turnable
 

crew and passenger figures, prior to painting job
 

After paint job, now passengers and 6 head-crew boarded, ready for river- and lake cruise at Silkeborg
 
Nils
 

 
 

on port side the paddle scoops were mounted, facing to the wrong side. I dd`nt want to disassemble  the paddle wheel, as the failure is not so obvious to be seen anyhow
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

Progress is glacial.  The ratlines for the mainmast shrouds are now done and some progress has been made on the mizzen ratlines.  My computer went berserk with an update of Windows 10 which didn't help.  Here are the port ratlines for the mainmast.  Fortunately the ones on the other side are exactly the same.
 

Hi Mike, I'd really suggest you do a little research before you start     I think your approach to build the kit following the plans and your heart is definitely the way to go, people may have opinions but nothing can be proven.  Sure this will build up into a beautiful model.  Definitely following this one.  

Post 75

I have diverted from rigging the Bowsprit to fit the Cat Block and tackle to the catheads so I can assess the relative position of the anchor gear in relation to the Bowsprit shrouds.

 
Cat Block

This is traditionally a substantial iron bound block with hook used to raise the anchor.

4615
Steel indicates a 12” block which scales to 4.8mm. I have gone with a 4mm block, 5mm looked just too large in relation to the Cathead.

The ‘iron’ strapping is applied to the block and a hook inserted.

 
Cat Tackle

The tackle which runs between the Cathead sheaves and the block comprises 3” line. I have opted for Syren 0.3mm line.

This is attached to an eyebolt beneath the Cathead, rove thro’ the sheaves and belayed inboard to a cleat on the Cathead upright.
With the Shroud held in position as shown both in the Alert Book and the kit instructions, a problem is immediately highlighted.


4610
As can be seen with the Starboard anchor the whole arrangement sits behind the shroud and the anchor could not be worked without fouling.

 

4617
On the Port side the situation is the same except the angle of the shroud which is less due to the offset Bowsprit, is closer to the anchor.


Cheerful model
To confuse matters this shot of the Cheerful model does show the anchor tackle inside of the shroud lanyards, but the anchor is much smaller than on Alert, and looks to slip easily between shroud and stem.

 
Moving onto a stowed anchor


4621
This is a mock-up with the anchor in the only stowed position available. For the purpose of the exercise the anchor is a Caldercraft version which is close to the kit anchor size.

 

4619
In this shot the anchor ring is still attached to the cat hook, but the stopper is also deployed.

 
The Stopper, a heavier line, I used 0.63mm, is used to secure the anchor ring. It is knotted on one end, passes thro’ an eyebolt on the forward side of the Cathead, thro’ the anchor ring, thro’ the snatch block on the aft side of the Cathead and is secured to a timberhead.


4628
In this shot the Cat hook has been detached and the anchor ring is held by the stopper. This would be the normal arrangement once an anchor had been raised.

 

4626
With the anchor stowed the original position of the shroud connection just doesn’t work. The least impracticable position seems to be between the hawse hole and the Cathead bracket.

 
Time to see how the re-positioned shrouds work out.


4630(2)
The anchor cable running inside the shrouds is not an issue.

 

4633
This is the unprepped kit anchor which I will use but the stock will have to be replaced.

These anchors do look large for the model, but they are of the given scale dimensions.

With the re-positioned shroud the anchor can be displayed hanging from the Cat block.


4634(2)
That Bowsprit is some spar, they should have named the cutter Narwhal.


4635
I think the shrouds look ok in this position, the Alert book drawings are not very helpful, but the photo’s of Hawke do appear to show the shrouds closer to the position above.

4637
I suppose I could have winged it and simply lashed the anchors to the rail as per the kit, but for those with eyes to see, letting go of the anchor would have been very interesting.

 
 
B.E.

28/02/2020