Beef Wellington

I think it looks perfect and very realistic.
 
Yves

Thanks a lot for your comments and likes! 
I will remove the flag pole. It is there Just temporarily, not glued. 
 
My First attempts with rope coils. I need to play a bit with the size and shape but I think this could work..... What do you think? 

This kit really looks like a gem and you are doing such a beautiful job building her.  Love the colours, and the crispness of your work is exceptional.

The rest of the Fir planks have been added, at least as far as I want to go with them.

Test to see how it all fits.


The first layer of oil (or wax or whatever it is) has been applied.

On the bottle it says: apply one layer with soft brush (did that), wipe away excess with clean cloth (did that), repeat three times. Leave one day between each coat/layer.
Ho-hum...
...I think I’ll go and watch Master and Commander

Hey Mike, can definitely relate!  The CC Diana kit predates the precut strip approach and is exactly what you are dealing with.  What I found especially tricky was keeping the sides of the gunport vertical (parallel with hypothetical frames), but the top/sill parallel to the sheer of the deck.  Can't tell from your photos whether the rearmost ports are completely square or not from your photos.  Anyway, congrats on reaching this stage, looks more like a man o' war now than a bathtub, very satisfying I'm sure.

Hi Barbossa, OC, 
 
Thanks for the likes and encouragement. Yes, I was really pleased with how the contrast worked out. Having looked at the AOTS book and seen the planking marked, it seemed like a good choice.
 
A little progress to report on the tops. I've added the eyelets, and the cross trees with holes for blocks underneath. 
 
I may have mentioned that I was a little concerned because the fore and mizzen tops had a bit of a twist in them that was about 3-4mm from side to side... enough that it was irking me. Well, I've recently acquired a rib-bender to help me in a new hobby I'm dabbling in - making a violin... and it turned out to be perfect to steam these parts straight.
 
At 250 Celsius, with water applied to the underside of the top, I could infuse the part with steam, and it became malleable and I was able to hold it flat until it cooled. Not sure I'd recommend it just for fighting tops, though! (I've included two sneaky pics of my first bash at bending violin ribs... It's rough and ready, but I'm learning! Amazingly, once the ribs are bent, they simply hold their shape. There's no force at all necessary to get them to stay put.)
 
Anyway - back to Ethalion!
 
I've also continued making up the training tackle for the quarterdeck armament.
 
 
The tops dry-fitted in situ.

Rib bending iron used to flatten out the misbehaving tops...
\
My first attempts at something new!


The main top with eyelets and swivel gun bases added. Also, the paint has been touched up around the edges.

The view from above gives a little idea what it must have been even only at the top of the main mast when working these ships!
Holes drilled for the blocks... And more blocks for the quarterdeck armament... 24 pairs to do, of which 14 with rope, and 7 without rope are complete so far... I've lost count of how many times these have pinged out of my fingers. A real exercise in patience, but I'm on the home stretch with the guns now.
Right. That's it from me for this evening. 
 
Rob

Hope everyone is enjoying 2020.  With the holidays, work, and a diversion into plastic models, I haven't been devoting as much time recently to the LAR.  I did manage to line out the gunports on the gun deck level.  
 
All I can say is this took forever!  The gunport patterns on other European kits like Caldercraft and Amati are a godsend.  Given that there are 14 gunports per side, I thought it was important that there be smooth line to the ports, that they be square, and that they be even with each other.  Hopefully the pictures below show clearly my particular method.  Essentially, I spent many hours marking out the 10mmx10mm gunports by transferring measurements from the plans, drilled a 2mm hole in the center, and ran a brass rod through to make sure that the gunports on either side were square to each other and level with one another.  Then after cutting out the 10mmx10mm gunports, I ran a square 10mmx10mm through to make sure that everything was still lined up.
 
Since I'm lining the ports, i went ahead with adding 2mmx2mm sills, opening the gunports to 14mmx14mm.  This was fairly easy using a micromotor with a small cut off wheel.  The cut off wheel made for quick, straight work.  The sills ultimately will be about 1mm, so I have an extra 1mm to overlap them with the second outer hull planking.
 
I'm using padouk that I picked up from Woodcraft.  It's an interesting wood - nice color (though will dull to an orange-brown over time, interesting smell when worked, and machines fairly easily.  It does have pits in it like mahogany, but these fill up pretty nicely when sanded.  Hopefully when I apply a finish there will be no visible pits.  You have to be careful with the dust as it can be an irritant, so I worked using a respirator and a shop vac going at all times.  It also can stain very light wood, so you have to be a little careful with that as well.
 
To get ready for the inner bulwark planking, I decided to remove most of the gunport-level bulkhead frames.  That was not at all easy but took lots of micromotor work.  I was a bit nervous doing so, but I had rubbed PVA all over the first planking which kept the planking very stable.
 
Next up will either be the inner bulwark planking or the exterior planking.  Given that the interior bulwark planking will largely be invisible, I might start with it, so that when I do the outer hull planking, clamping and pinning issues might be easier to deal with.





 

 

 

 

Same kit as I just finished  - some suggestions  -  use wood dowels where ever you can, inside the two piece masts  (lowers)   and  for the mast  higher sections,   also  make wood dowel  yards  instead of the plastic ones  (they will  be far stronger for tying ropes against them)   try  to fit a  wood deck  if you can  (far more realistic in my opinion)  square off the rear cabin  front area  (thats if you intend to build her as the wicked wench   or  latter black pearl)   also  if you can  try to use wood  deadeyes  and blocks   - they all help to make a more substancial  build.
 
Just a few ideas for you.
 
OC.

Finished   (at last)  -  I  painted  and added the last  of the figures  including an unlucky guy who was left to hang  from the main upper mast  (he just bones).
 
Also  I fitted  two  flags that I sent off for to get  fabric ones, they were trimmed  then had the rope trapped and secured,  I got the drupe  by applying pva  and shaping when wet  - then  heated with a hairdryer  to catch the shape.
 
Its been a really enjoyable build   and I can Highly recommend the kit  to anyone.
 
Thank You to Every one  who followed  and commented.
 
Here's the gallery  light wasn't to good though indoors with just an over head light.
 
OC.





 









 

Carrying on with the saga  -  On the poop deck  general quarters is called using the ships bell,  while still on the poop deck  another pirate  checks the map,  on the main deck  peg leg joe  comes over sword in hand , and  at the same time  another  brings a  chest  up the  front  ladder  from the main gun deck.
 
OC.

Very slow progress. After the January fires we now have floods.  Locusts must be next.  At home we had 350mm of rain over the weekend before my rain gauge overflowed. The cleanups have been time consuming, but we are far better off than many.
 
Here is progress.  The ratlines continue unfortunately.  The other side is done to the same level.
 

As a break from the ratlines I have made up the main stay.  The plans specify 1.3mm thread.  The Syren thread comes in either 1.37mm or 1.14mm sizes.  In fact, the 1.37mm is closer to 1.5mm and the 1.14mm appears to be just over 1.0mm.  I have made up both.  I'm afraid the serving on both is only adequate.  This shows the difference in the thread sizes.
 

Here is the1.37mm in place ...
 

and the 1.14mm.
 

At the moment I lean towards the narrower thread.  The thicker thread looks just a bit too thick.  Comments welcome.
 
 
 

Mounted the model on the travelling base.
Used a heavier clamp at one end as a counter balance as I made adjustments to align the drill bit with the mark then clamped it to the drill press base.
Drilled the holes.  #29 thru, #15 1/4" deep.
Set it on the build table and drilled thru the table.
Made up lengths of threaded rod, chased the threads after cutting the lengths (borrowed my son's tap and die set for this).
Installed the helicoil inserts as described earlier.
Now it sets up and cures.
I left one of the original wooden clamping bars on the table as I can set the keel to it/align to it, and it holds the plan in place on the table.

It’s been a bit since I posted but I managed to get all the mast components completed. Still need to stain the upper components to match the lower ones. There was a lot more work making them than I originally thought but all came out pretty good for my first scratch build. Everything is still in the dry fit stage until I can go through the rigging plans to determine what blocks go where on the tops, crosstrees etc. 


Tom

First, thanks everyone for their help ful comments and likes and a special thanks to Jim (Bluto 1790) for all the insights on some of the rigging issues he is currently going through and that will be part of my somewhat near future. 

Decided to get started on some of the mast work. Nothing is glued yet, just dry fitting as much as possible right now. Probably start on the top masts and fitting them to the existing masts and add the railings to the tops. 

Tops still need rear railings. 

Still need to figure out what blocks need to be attached to the underside of the tops. Easier to do that now instead of after they are set in position. 

Still have some work left on the bow sprit. 

 
Tom
 

Hi Chris, think its definitely worth planking the lower deck, I think the only hatch that will only be slightly visible is the lower fore-hatch, the center one in your layout.  I did add this myself, even painting black it takes some craning to glimpse it once the companion ladder is in place.  The lower main hatch is totally obscured by the main hatch ladder.  Definitely agree with the lighter caulking.  Starting to come together now, looks good.

The Showcase Models of Australia Kit
The HMAS Vendetta kit comes in a sturdy cardboard box with an artwork of the ship at sea in 1917 .
You get 5 five sprues , and 3 sheets of photo-etch including etch anchor chain .
I found all the details of the Model to be lovely , and were on a par with a Tamiya or Trumpeter kit
- it was that well made and also surprisingly well-designed ( a real tribute to Australian Showcase Models )
and it above all fitted well together with no flash or any awkward injection-ports visible on the Model when made .


HMS Walker
Admiralty W-Class Destroyer ordered from William Denny of Dumbarton under the 10th Order of the 1916-17 Programme on 9th December 1916.
The ship was laid down on 26th March 1917 and was launched as the first RN warship to bear the name on 29th November 1917. Build was completed on 12th February 1918 and included facilities for use as a minelayer. She served briefly in WW1. After the Armistice she was deployed in the Baltic was in action against Russian warships.
In 1921 she was in 1st Destroyer Flotilla, Atlantic Fleet and went into Reserve after 1930. HMS WALKER was not deployed operationally after the end of hostilities and was Paid-off.
The ship reduced to Reserve status and was placed was placed on the Disposal Lost.
Sold to BISCO for breaking up in 1946 she arrived in tow at the breaker’s at Troon on 15th March that year.
 
Note - the Showcase Models of Australia kit only came out at the start of 2017 and is produced as a 1917 era ship - so it needs work to make it a 1939 era ship = ( it needs a wider and taller rangefinder , director control and an extended bridge - with a 2 pounder AA gun needing to be fitted instead of the Kit 3 inch AA gun , depth charge racks and depth charge throwers ) .
I would also sadly stress that Showcase Models went out of business last year - due to the death of the owner / designer -
but his memory is carried on with this lovely model kit - I think the only way now to source one of these models - is to buy one second-hand off Ebay ( I bought mine in 2017 direct from Showcase Models as soon as it became available for sale ) .

The Prior Research
I had the National Maritime Museum plans of HMS Walpole ( cost me £ 70 ) scanned specially for me -
this was necessary as it had never ever been done before by the NMM so it cost me a lot more than normal -
but I got state of the art scanning of the Plans for HMS Walpole in 1/46 scale -
This was of the same class of Destroyer as HMS Walker  , to allow me to get the fine details
so I could get parts designed by Shapeways .
I would estimate that research and buying special Model Kit aftermarket parts from abroad - took 3 months -
and took longer than I first thought would be necessary - due to waiting for replies from Glasgow University and the National Maritime Museum , and then getting parts designed , printed and shipped to me but the hard effort finally paid off .

I must explain I first tried Glasgow University ( as HMS Walker was built by William Denny of Dumbarton ) but discovered that what they had was just described by them as ' nuts and bolts ' drawings - and not detailed line drawings and ship plans suitable for my purposes .

I needed a clear idea of the stern and the bridge as these were vital to understanding what to change from the Kit Model and detailed exactly what HMS Walker was actually like in 1939/1940 after she had a Refit Bridge fitted in the late 1920's .
Note that the Director Fire Control Hood that the ships had fitted in 1917/1918 during completion and was used throughout their careers , but is not present on the Showcase Model !!
 
I knew from my personal collection of Original interwar Postcards that proved HMS Walker had her extended ' Refit ' Bridge fitted much later than other V & W Class Ships ( often in the early 1920's ) and as always research is vital to discover for your own choice of ship , and the timeframe you wish to portray for the particular V & W Class Ship you wish to Model .

This made completely obvious through the looking at the marked changes to the plans , in 1928 and 1929 with refits added in different coloured pen marks to the original 1917 plans for HMS Walpole -
These were that -
Firstly , the original 3 inch HA gun was replaced with a single 2pdr pom-pom AA gun
Secondly , the Galley Exhaust Pipe was moved and trunked into the existing exhaust pipe at the front of the forward funnel .
Thirdly , the Compass Binnacle was moved forward ( when the Destroyer had a Bridge Extension at the Front )
and the new 9 Foot Rangefinder was moved aft - with the Bridge based semaphore moved to the bridge wings instead .
The HMS Walpole plans ( when they arrived as a huge JPEG scan ) solved the Bridge details puzzle -
and luckily I found on the internet , a line drawing of original plans for the stern of a V & W Class Destroyer
that had the mine rails fitted - this was HMS Vanquisher .

I got a Shapeways Designer to make me Mine Rail fairings ( or sponsons ) for the Model ( in the first photo attached to the stern and made in white plastic ) which you can see , are very realistic , and I made special mine rails in photo-etch using 1/350 railings as the ship I will make was constructed as a minelayer with 60 mines on deck - I could not source etch 1/350 Royal Navy Mine Deck Rails .

I also sourced the Polish made AJM Models single mounting 2 pounder pom-pom AA gun set and also added to it to replace the plastic gun barrel - a separate 2pr brass barrel from Master Models ( from another Quadruple Mounting pom-pom AA mounting set ) 2 pounder pom-pom gun barrel ( This Single 1/350 Gun brass 2-pdr pom-pom gun barrel has a hollow end ) .
The Deck was given NorthStar 1/350 Royal Navy Cable Reels - and Alliance Destroyer Bollards
( made for IJN 1/350 Destroyer ships but at that scale not a big deal ) -
The White Ensign Flag was printed off and originally I planned to use a fabric BECC Flag - but the print quality was not good enough .


I also show the finished stern showing the completed mine deck rail section , and the aft mine rail sponsons .
Note , also the aftermarket Metal Flag Pole ( by Orange Hobby - my only source of 1/350 Jack and Ensign Flag Poles ) - for the Bridge was added two 1/350 NorthStar Royal Navy Signal Searchlights - and 4 Brass IJN Voice Pipes - which all added to the realism .
The 2 Funnels were given added photo-etch grilles ( designed for a different Resin British G/H Class Destroyer ) to the tops ,
and then it was given the new Refit Ships Bridge - where it had fitted aftermarket items to add super detail .

I found the model to be well fitting and I would point out in this review that it is a lovely Model .
1/350 Scale HMS Walker Refit Bridge from Micromaster ( Shapeways ) .
Highly detailed part for those wishing to model the HMS Walker using the Showcase models 1/350 HMS Vendetta model, created to sit atop the model bridge. Accurately created using plans and reference photographs (which were specially supplied by me , to him from the National Maritime Museum HMS Walpole Plans ) .
Details include: Binnacle , Canvas texture around bridge railing , Inset Map reading tables , Bow lights and Bridge instrumentation .
I finally also bought for the Model , a bespoke nameplate made for me on the Shapeways site to replace the Kit Supplied Nameplate - which was well worth the expense .

several important points to note -
( 1 ) - The Model does NOT have etch railings provided for the 2 ' bandstands ' for the two 4 inch gun positions ( B and X guns ) -
so you need to remember to fit that , as the kit instructions do not mention this -
above all , I recommend you source and fit the ' Master Model of Poland ' HMS Repulse gun barrels set
for four examples of 4 inch guns to replace the kit examples .

( 2 ) There are NO Funnel photo-etch grilles , provided with the model kit - so again you need to source some - I recommend the
( originally made for the resin G and H Class Destroyers ) by White Ensign - the G and H Class Destroyers etch set -
https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/coll ... destroyers
which have 4 different sized etch grilles - and they also offer extra railings and above all , the semaphores for the 2 bridge wings
( the kit provides a horrid plastic semaphore - located on the upper 1917 era bridge )

( 3 ) you will need to source 1/350 Depth Charge Throwers as there are none in the kit provided -
I realise that the V & W Class had two per side but I frankly struggled to locate where they would have been exactly 
fitted at the aft part of the ship - so just went for one as a compromise .
I sourced Rainbow ( 1/350 Rb3545 ) IJN Depth Charges
I had mine made with no Depth Charge loaded ( an empty thrower )- and used Brass aftermarket IJN Depth Charges
that were fitted on top of these and also fitted inside the White Ensign photo-etch depth charge racks at the stern .
This was well worth the effort and you get 40 Metal Brass Depth Charges so you have plenty spare for other projects !
The effort was well worth it , as you don't get any depth charges provided separate with the kit - and the 4 depth charges with the kit
are correctly ( for 1917-18 ) moulded onto the deck - but they are needed to be removed - if you want an inter-war or WW2 Ship .

( 4 ) As stated earlier if you want 1/350 depth charge racks , rather than the kit paravanes at the stern - you need to source some -
( the WEM G & H set provides them ) and you will need to remove the 4 x 1917 era depth charges at the stern in the little deck racks - as kit plastic - as mentioned earlier .

( 5 ) the aft mast - is 1917 era - and has no upper pole provided - so you need to ideally source suitable brass rod and make it yourself

( 6 ) the Shapeways 3D HMS Walker Refit Bridge had the Bridge windows moulded on , but these need to be removed and replaced
using the White Ensign etch set 1/350 Deck Railings adapted to size ( necessary as sadly the etch supplies H Class 1/350 Bridge Windows are to wide and also don't fit neatly onto the HMS Walker Bridge - this is important to note !!

( 7 ) I highly recommend this Book above all others for research and modelling purposes -
Raven, Alan & Roberts, John (1979). 'V' and 'W' Class Destroyers. Man o'War. 2. London: Arms & Armour.
This is a Soft-Back Booklet that has some wonderful line-drawing detail and original Shipyard photographs found nowhere else !

Hopefully my first ever Ship review on this site is not too bad , but I will happily take any constructive criticism .

Made some more progress this weekend, got the rear superstructure PE all done and painted:
 

 

 

 
Something I did that I don't see many other Bismarck builders do is paint the roof of the main hangar in dark grey (the same color as most all steel deck areas of the ship). I decided to do it because you can see it was painted likewise on the actual wreck... makes sense as this area would be walked around on to access the smaller boats that will eventually take residence here. I also put a huge amount of tedious work in on the many PE vents here; they were a bear to complete but look good. Here's the scariest one before installation:
 

 
Anyway, there will be some touch-up to do still on this section but the next project is going to be the funnel and forward hangars. After that I'll return to do the smaller details such as the guns, railings/stairs and storage boxes that litter the superstructure. 
 

Hi again folks, yet another issue I am trying to resolve (well several actually) relating to the bowsprit and Jibboom (noting 1855 time frame)
 
Q1.  From Kipping I have sufficient information to dimension and shape the spars.  What is not given, and not shown in any plan, is what ratio is used to determine the housing lengths (bed to step of the bowsprit, and the doubling of the jibboom onto the bowsprit.  Is anyone aware of these ratios?  As best I can determine the inner end of the bowsprit was only 5 feet - is this too short for a 23 foot bowsprit?
 
Attached is a drawing I am doing which is superimposed on the profile photo of the ship.  The profile and photo do not fully align as the photo is taken with the sip laying with a slight stbd bow inclination so the angles (and lengths change).
 
Q2.  You can see where I have circled or called out possible joints for the heel chock/jibboom.  From what I can make out of this photo (not great quality as it was taken in 1867/8) is where I think the heel chock ends, but not sure where the butt joint is.  Both options are viable according to Kipping and to Underhill, whereby some ships of this era still employed a small/short chock, whereas other ships, especially clippers, used a longer version.  see other attached drawing from Underhill.  I am leaning towards the latter (longer version) as there appears som rounding down (more than the proportioned shape of a jibbom) evident.  that said though, this would leave a shorter housing?  Hence Q1 (part 2)
 
Q3.  the last question relates to interpreting the  bopwcap as shown in the image.  My read is that as it is so close fitting it is more likely to be an iron cap rather the squarer and larger wooden (old style) cap?
 
All comments ans suggestions most welcomed.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
  
 

Hi folks, another quick update.  I have been side tracked with research of late but have managed to make a start on the broadside guns.  These were 32 pounder 25 cwt guns to the Dundas pattern, mounted on rear-chock carriages.  As usual close ups show more dust, lumps etc than to the naked eye, so I am going to have to clean them up a little more yet
 
As you can see these are small at 1:72, only 22 x 12mm at the widest, and the prototype  is a rough 3D print barrel.  The ones I will fit will be printed to a much higher fidelity and include the sights and gunlock - won't be as 'rough'.  The prototype was used to ensure it fitted the ports etc correctly, and work out a way to run the production line.  The rear worm drive elevating mechanism still has to have the handle added and the striker plate on the chooch will be a little more refined.
 
The production version wheels are only dry fitted as I am still trying to determine whether to blacken the outer hub.  the photo I am using as a reference (of the actual ship's gun) and contemporary information suggest these, and the wheel rims /rollers were made from gunmetal and not iron.  They just seem a little too bright but my attempts to dull them have produced inconsistent results - I may just live with them
 



 
cheers
 
Pat
 
 

Hi Again Folks .... Well I found my Notes and decided to put The Ballier onto my new Build Table at long last !  .. 😎😁
I discovered that I had left off at putting eye Bolts in the Transom area,  so I got the 0.5mm Black wire out (a recent purchase to avoid having to chemically blacken) and twisted up 6 eye Bolts .. Needless to say my first one went flying across the room when I came to trim the excess off, Hmmmm.. I wasn't gonna let the wee devil escape that easily so I hunted it down and found it lurking under the Ballier Plans 🙂
 
Six holes drilled later and the glue came out ..  all going like clock-work so I decided to call quits on my First Day (cough cough ..Hour) Back ..  
 
Oh by the way there are actual Photos coming up here ... Try to contain the excitement there folks 😉
 
All The very Best From Glacial Boat Yards
 
Eamonn
 
PS latest additions are the 2 eye Bolts on the Transom Taff Rail & the 4 on Deck at the Transom itself
 

The Ship Alice with a couple of inshore fishing boats of a coast.
w/C 14” X10”
Jim

The Schooner 
watercolour 14” X 10”

Same ship later on. Main Top sail blown out.
Jim
W/C 10” x 7”

Afternoon Quickie 
A 'Ship Sloop Of War' and a Cutter on patrol in the Napoleonic era.
Watercolour 10” X 7”

Task Force
Going places. A CVL, CC, two BB's and some DD's roughing it a bit in WW2
w/c 15” X 11”