Beef Wellington

good evening everyone
 
not much more i can do to the main deck for the time being, i will need to do some/lots of hull work before that will be put into position, at least for now it has something to sit on
so its back to the bridge
 
Bridge rework
not so much re-work, but i bought a new set, i had to as the last one was never going to be presentable, however the bits will be kept for another project i have in mind
 
although not perfect, i am much happier with the outcome, 
the radar tower is at present from the old set, as the replacement has to be remade, all in all a recovery, for me anyway
 

Great result, night and day difference Kevin.  I really need to develop my skill soldering as well... 

My thoughts are with you Mark.

My thoughts are with you Mark.

Quick update.  Increasingly realizing I'm reaching a point that I need to attach the upper false foc's'l and quarter deck template before more progress can be made, but  a couple of items I need to finalize and figure out first.
 
Main and mizzen backstay stools:
Unfortunately when I made the channels I neglected to make the stools at the same time, In a moment of focus decided to just get these done.  These smaller items were definitely trickier than the channels when scraping the edge profile, other than that, these can be put aside for when I'm ready to install the quarterdeck drift rail.
 

 
Upper deck coamings:
As mentioned previously, I'd like to keep the option to have a few of the gratings be removeable.  First off, appropriately sized gratings were made up, and the coamings then sized accordingly.  I cheated here and used a simple butt joint as I didn't think the more authentic lap joint would really be visible.  These were made of 3x3mm strip and 2x3mm strip with the inside ledge added after with some slightly thinned 1mm strip.  The grating thickness had to be thinned quite a bit to make it them sit flush.  These will also be simulating actual practice and so the edges were rounded off to 1mm above the bottom to butt up against planking.  TFFM was used as a guide here.
 

 
Once the coamings were finished, the fake beams and cross pieces could be made up to the appropriate size.  The ends were sloped to ensure that the end of the face beam would not be visible for viewing angles.
 

 
Adjustments were made to the false deck to accommodate the larger openings and positions tweaked a little.  For the foc's'l, the coaming size does not match the deck cut-out or AOTS exactly due to the limited incremental options for the grating size.  The stove flue needs to sit equidistant between the steam grate and the forward grating which moved forward slightly.  The steam grating needs to be positioned appropriately to allow the belfy to sit on the aft end of the steam grate coaming.
 
The top tackle scuttles have been filled in to ease future planking - the instructions indicate that there should be coamings and gratings here, however, these will be modeled as flush scuppers without a coaming as described in AOTS and shown on contemporary models. Although the surface of the center deck is very slightly curved, it is a close enough approximation to a flat surface that the flat top of the fake frame seem to sit without issue.  Lighting is clearly an issue here, and the interior is a little more visible than the photo's suggest, and probably more so in a well lit room.
 
Of note is the fact that the stove, and especially the condenser, sits a little higher than ideally would be the case, although looking at the AOTS diagrams its still a tight fit there as well.  In retrospect, I would probably not have put wooden battens underneath the bottom plate to lower this by 1mm or so, but not going to risk damage at this point to redo.
 

 
Putting some scrap planking in place give a better sense for the final proportion and the above deck rounded edge.  Think these will be a nice contrast to the much higher coamings of the exposed upper deck below needed to withstand water ingress.
 

My thoughts are with you Mark.

Hi Nils, glad you posted in my log otherwise I wouldn't have known about your new Zeesboot project, quite the scale, I'm sure she'll be stunning and very interesting construction.  Also congratulation on the puppy, we seem to have got ours both at the same time!  Casper looks a real cutie!
 

good morning everyone thank you for the likes and comments
 
MAIN DECK
 
all the decks are brass and sit on top of the kit plastic ones (after all the surface detail has been removed
 

this is the main deck 18 inches long, to save metal, various parts have to be removed these areas are covered over later, by the forecastle and bridge
 
 
first all the rivets have to be knocked through from the other side (about 500 on this piece) marks are provided to show where they are and a centre punch is used to do the work



 
the sides are then folded upwards and soldered in place, im not sure ca would do this very well 




and then two long strips as long as the whole piece are soldered against the folded piece to represent rivet lines i did use ca for this
 


 

Looks great!

Great result, night and day difference Kevin.  I really need to develop my skill soldering as well... 

Great result, night and day difference Kevin.  I really need to develop my skill soldering as well... 

Great result, night and day difference Kevin.  I really need to develop my skill soldering as well... 

i copied this idea and it never worked for me,
 
i have no idea what was supplied to me  as 60/40 solder 
 
since then i have changed it and the flux, and getting much better results 
will post photo later  of what i am using
 
 

Post 14
Capping/Drift Rail (Part46)
Much as I liked the idea of the pre marked capping rails, when I came to fit them they just looked too broad to my eye. This would have been exacerbated by my desire to add even a very thin edging strip with a profile moulding cut into it.

1820
The provided strip measures 4.5mm wide which equates to 11.3". The scantlings table in the Alert book gives the Drift rail width of 7½" which equates to 3mm at scale.
I understand the over-scale width maybe a necessary simplification to incorporate the cut outs for the timberheads etc; and ease construction, but I have decided to go another route.
I recall that I had the same issue with the Pegasus kit where the Drift rails also had to be reduced in width.

1806(2)
For Alert I used Pear wood strip of 3x1mm which is a perfect fit for the drift rails, and add a  moulding to the outside edge.

1812(2)
The provided rails may come in to use  as a template to mark the cut out positions but for the dedicated kit basher they aren't really necessary as the positions are clearly marked on the plans.
 
New Paint job.
I wasn't really happy with the shade of blue I first painted the topsides with. On reflection it looked too bright, somehow at odds with the red internal scheme, perhaps too modern looking. These things are hard to pin down.
The revised scheme is based on Humbrol  Matt 96 which is RAF Blue. At a pinch I think you could get away with this on its own, it has a muted dusky blue/grey tone.

1800(2)
However, I thought it needed  making slightly paler and a tad brighter. To achieve this I added white paint by degrees, testing each sample, until I  arrived at the final shade I was happy with.

1811

1816
That's it for the outboard work for the present.
To reach this point has taken some seven weeks of fairly regular work time. Amusing to think how many models Chris Watton has completed in this time, I think he must have an army of Elves down in the Forest of Dean working night shifts.
 
I will now attend to planking the deck before I begin tinkering with the clinkering on the lower hull.
 
B.E.
16/08/2019
 
 

Looks great!

Looks great!

Looks great!

I have a new home for the pearl and others built,  I had to diss-assemble and re-assemble it  yesterday, it is a mainly glass unit with a wood back - top and bottom,  I have a few more kits to be built that will share the space when ready.
 
OC.

Windlas part2. Everything went fine to this stage. Time consuming as there are lot of pieces but smooth process. 

Until this small detail came. It is so tiny and will be made from 10pieces. Nice test for the nerves

after the disastrous first week of the build, i have made a few conclusions
 
i was totally overwhelmed by the amount of shiny stuff, in the addons, everything had to be opened and played with, im sure others can relate to this
 
Soldering, is my way ahead for this build, no i didn't know haw to do it and never had the right stuff, now sorted and will show in a later post
 
the hull
 
having made up the 4 sections the keel has to be removed and fared into the plates at the bow, also the hull plates are to thick and porthole eyebrows need to be gone,
a bulk of the work has now been done
 
but many more hours still required to make it presentable 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks so much for the advice!!
 
Jason, I really like your idea of the rabett at the bow! If I build another ship, I'll definitely consider using it, or trying to figure out filler blocks. I imagine that they would do similarly, Henrik, but I felt that was too far beyond my non-existent wood-working ability to try this time.
 
I did do some bearding on the false keel, but found out after my first planking that I didn't do nearly enough! I've therefore sanded down the planks at the stern as well to try make up for it.
 
This is after sanding down one side of the stern planks to show the contrast.

Thank you for the confirmation about fixing the dip; I went ahead with the lime plank fillers.

The result wasn't too bad

On the right side they worked really well!
 
On the left I didn't make them quite long enough so they end a little suddenly with a slight dip, but the walnut planks should have a good enough surface to curve over the remaining defect.
To answer your question, Henrik, my instructions said to go deck down but I was warned that I could run into lots of problems doing it that way with the curvature of the Bounty's hull. I therefore chose to ignore the instructions;P. I'd have to try again the other way around to know for sure which way was better though. Below are more before-sanding close-ups to give a better idea of what I did at the stern. The left ended up being different to the right as I was salvaging planks that I'd cut months ago in ignorance. (I ended up with only a single full plank to spare so was happy I had!) On the right side, the planks that terminated underneath bulkhead 12 were full width the whole way with a stealer to make up the difference. The planks terminating on the upper false keel tapered quite a lot by the 11th bulkhead; I even had to drop a plank. I then did something that may constitute cheating between the 11th bulkhead to the false keel: I cut the planks to widen again:0. I don't know how legit that is but it seemed to work pretty well!

On the left side, all bar one of the planks terminating on the false keel in that problem strip were tapered all the way (one I widened again after bulkhead 11). Then all the planks ending under bulkhead 12 tapered a little over 9,10 and 11, then widened out to 12. I didn't end up dropping a plank or needing a stealer this side. Weird, I know, but it worked and still looks sufficiently symmetrical;P!

Back to the present! I have finished sanding the hull. It's a process that really makes you acutely aware of all your planking imperfections! Next up, second planking!

Quick update.  Increasingly realizing I'm reaching a point that I need to attach the upper false foc's'l and quarter deck template before more progress can be made, but  a couple of items I need to finalize and figure out first.
 
Main and mizzen backstay stools:
Unfortunately when I made the channels I neglected to make the stools at the same time, In a moment of focus decided to just get these done.  These smaller items were definitely trickier than the channels when scraping the edge profile, other than that, these can be put aside for when I'm ready to install the quarterdeck drift rail.
 

 
Upper deck coamings:
As mentioned previously, I'd like to keep the option to have a few of the gratings be removeable.  First off, appropriately sized gratings were made up, and the coamings then sized accordingly.  I cheated here and used a simple butt joint as I didn't think the more authentic lap joint would really be visible.  These were made of 3x3mm strip and 2x3mm strip with the inside ledge added after with some slightly thinned 1mm strip.  The grating thickness had to be thinned quite a bit to make it them sit flush.  These will also be simulating actual practice and so the edges were rounded off to 1mm above the bottom to butt up against planking.  TFFM was used as a guide here.
 

 
Once the coamings were finished, the fake beams and cross pieces could be made up to the appropriate size.  The ends were sloped to ensure that the end of the face beam would not be visible for viewing angles.
 

 
Adjustments were made to the false deck to accommodate the larger openings and positions tweaked a little.  For the foc's'l, the coaming size does not match the deck cut-out or AOTS exactly due to the limited incremental options for the grating size.  The stove flue needs to sit equidistant between the steam grate and the forward grating which moved forward slightly.  The steam grating needs to be positioned appropriately to allow the belfy to sit on the aft end of the steam grate coaming.
 
The top tackle scuttles have been filled in to ease future planking - the instructions indicate that there should be coamings and gratings here, however, these will be modeled as flush scuppers without a coaming as described in AOTS and shown on contemporary models. Although the surface of the center deck is very slightly curved, it is a close enough approximation to a flat surface that the flat top of the fake frame seem to sit without issue.  Lighting is clearly an issue here, and the interior is a little more visible than the photo's suggest, and probably more so in a well lit room.
 
Of note is the fact that the stove, and especially the condenser, sits a little higher than ideally would be the case, although looking at the AOTS diagrams its still a tight fit there as well.  In retrospect, I would probably not have put wooden battens underneath the bottom plate to lower this by 1mm or so, but not going to risk damage at this point to redo.
 

 
Putting some scrap planking in place give a better sense for the final proportion and the above deck rounded edge.  Think these will be a nice contrast to the much higher coamings of the exposed upper deck below needed to withstand water ingress.
 

Hi Mark, I'm not very adventurous with colors, so have stuck to the Admiralty paints red and yellow ochre.  I like the look of them, but of course colour preference is a very personal thing.  I used the technique Druxey outlined, sealing the outside planking, painting carefully and then simply scraping off any excess - worked pretty well.

That's a really nice result Mark, looks great from here!

Quick update.  Increasingly realizing I'm reaching a point that I need to attach the upper false foc's'l and quarter deck template before more progress can be made, but  a couple of items I need to finalize and figure out first.
 
Main and mizzen backstay stools:
Unfortunately when I made the channels I neglected to make the stools at the same time, In a moment of focus decided to just get these done.  These smaller items were definitely trickier than the channels when scraping the edge profile, other than that, these can be put aside for when I'm ready to install the quarterdeck drift rail.
 

 
Upper deck coamings:
As mentioned previously, I'd like to keep the option to have a few of the gratings be removeable.  First off, appropriately sized gratings were made up, and the coamings then sized accordingly.  I cheated here and used a simple butt joint as I didn't think the more authentic lap joint would really be visible.  These were made of 3x3mm strip and 2x3mm strip with the inside ledge added after with some slightly thinned 1mm strip.  The grating thickness had to be thinned quite a bit to make it them sit flush.  These will also be simulating actual practice and so the edges were rounded off to 1mm above the bottom to butt up against planking.  TFFM was used as a guide here.
 

 
Once the coamings were finished, the fake beams and cross pieces could be made up to the appropriate size.  The ends were sloped to ensure that the end of the face beam would not be visible for viewing angles.
 

 
Adjustments were made to the false deck to accommodate the larger openings and positions tweaked a little.  For the foc's'l, the coaming size does not match the deck cut-out or AOTS exactly due to the limited incremental options for the grating size.  The stove flue needs to sit equidistant between the steam grate and the forward grating which moved forward slightly.  The steam grating needs to be positioned appropriately to allow the belfy to sit on the aft end of the steam grate coaming.
 
The top tackle scuttles have been filled in to ease future planking - the instructions indicate that there should be coamings and gratings here, however, these will be modeled as flush scuppers without a coaming as described in AOTS and shown on contemporary models. Although the surface of the center deck is very slightly curved, it is a close enough approximation to a flat surface that the flat top of the fake frame seem to sit without issue.  Lighting is clearly an issue here, and the interior is a little more visible than the photo's suggest, and probably more so in a well lit room.
 
Of note is the fact that the stove, and especially the condenser, sits a little higher than ideally would be the case, although looking at the AOTS diagrams its still a tight fit there as well.  In retrospect, I would probably not have put wooden battens underneath the bottom plate to lower this by 1mm or so, but not going to risk damage at this point to redo.
 

 
Putting some scrap planking in place give a better sense for the final proportion and the above deck rounded edge.  Think these will be a nice contrast to the much higher coamings of the exposed upper deck below needed to withstand water ingress.