Beef Wellington

The stern appears much more voluptuous with the deck hardware in place.

I'm at about 90% now with the front bridge, and should finish it up tomorrow as long as I don't get called into action on some unforeseen endeavor...and that's been known to happen. 
I may begin with the masts after the front bridge is finished, as it may be better to do some of the mast rigging before the deck areas get all cluttered up. It gets pretty busy with all the launches. Will need to carefully look things over before I decide for sure.

Painted

Once the 3" guns are glued in place, a deck will cover the guns so the only way one will see them is by looking inside the gun ports. No top view, and a very limited view from inside the ship looking out. 
Would you paint the guns or leave them natural brass? 

I wish everyone good and happiness!

I want to show a video of one sudomodelist from Russia - Alexey Vikulaev
He shows you how to make a boat 95mm that goes to our woodenkit "Brigantine Phoenix"
 
Enjoy
Eugene
 
 
 
 
 
 

One more photo of guns for the Russian fleet at the end of the 18th century.
L-45mm

Hi all, another small update,  I am being slowed with research at the moment but finding a little time to do a few small things such as making the hammocks for stowing around the funnel as shown in the photo.  I posted a photo of the railings earlier; these are only 11mm high with the hammocks 22mm.
 

 
I did these by rolling some washed drafting linen around a styrene rod (.8mm) then cutting them into lengths before attaching the marline hitch lashings.  The rolled linen was soaked with a diluted fabric glue (water) solution and I originally had intentions of removing the rod.  However, even with the stiffening from the solution it proved to keep these straight enough as shown in the photo so I left the rods in-situ.   I have just noted i need to tidy up some of the rod end (to hide them a bit better).

 
I also did try to add the clews and ring that would have been folded inwards (as shown below) but simply could not achieve it with my clclumsy fingers at this scale 🙂  As these faced in towards the funnel they would not have been seen anyway (well that is my poor excuse.
 

cheers
 
Pat

well as stated above i have gone back to the Victory, i quess i am a person with ideas way above my skill sets and dreams way above storage  arrangements, and that is partly the reason for this build being laid up for two years, perhaps some one will remember i was looking at a diorama, well like this one
but had the ships launch pulling her to find a light wind
well 7 years down the line reality has kicked in and i am just unable to complete that task, so i looks like, well a build without sails,

having accepted that fact i have spent the last day cleaning her off, repairing a little damage on the bowspit again (always getting in the way) and now setting the two yards fitted to it


   

Hello - the progress so far is some yards are up and in position.
Not exactly parallel as yet but hopefully will be once fully rigged.
 

 
Parral set up - seems slightly on the big size. For the top yards will use some left over from my Supply build which are smaller.
 

 
 
 

 
The Crossjack Tie on the mizzen mast was done slightly different from instructions. Took the centre block off and tried to copy what was illustrated in my book. the Thimbles were made from copper tubing.
 

 

 

 
 
An overall picture.
 

 
Thank you for looking and the ' Likes'
 
Doug
 
 
 

Nearly finished; I decided to put some more tarps on the ships launches

Hi 😊

Hi, and tanks 😊
 
 

Greetings all
                    Well I will be more than glad when I have all these gunports cut out and lined. I have only lined 12 of the starboard side. The strip is very brittle and the edges break away at times, and some of my work is more than poor, so it shall not be seen !!!.  So I now need to know the size of the second planking strip which will hide the edges of to aforesaid gun ports. Looking at the plans it could be  277 but as I have not located my manuals I do not know what 277 is.  BTW Jason is absolutely correct, the 6mm wide walnut strip is not wide enough to line the gunports. Regards . DAVID

OMG.😯
 
OC.

Now to compare Vendetta (1) to a battleship (both in 1/350)

Second Planking complete!  I stopped spiling the planks a little past the water line, then it all sped up a lot.  The last picture is with some sanding. Turned out ok.  Going to work on trimming the gunports next before planking the inside. 

 

Rob, you're cabin bulkhead came together really nicely done.  Its a shame the cabin area of this kit doesn't lend itself to opening up the deck, the last bulkhead with the gap the center still glares at me.  
 
I agree with you on the use of white, wonder if you've looked at the Admiralty 'Ivory' colour?  Its much less garish in tone and might really allow the detail to show through with the upper deck in place.  Deck shot looks great, and to think, "real" ammo!  🙂

Hi all,
 
Thanks so much for the likes. They're such an encouragement. A little update as Storm Bronagh blows. We live on top of a hill, so we're pretty much the first thing the wind reaches in about 30 miles... It sounds pretty impressive out there (for England any-how )
 
I've been working to finish off the 18 pounders. They're mainly there structurally on port and starboard now, with only the wedges, and the rigging to be done. (He says "only"!?!)
 
For a little diversion, I spent some time working out how to make the shot racks around the gratings. I'd been a little concerned that the colour of the boxwood I'd used was too close to the colour of the maple on the deck. The solution? Make the shot racks red ochre, like the gun carriages.

None of this is fixed to the deck at the moment, but I'm pleased with the overall look of it.  I don't have a mill, so I created a plasti-card template to drill through to make the little dimples for the shot to sit in, then I used that template to drill .5mm holes where the dimples needed to be, and opened them up with a spherical engraving bit in my proxxon hand drill. It isn't perfect, but I'm pretty pleased with it. The shot comes with the kit, and was fixed in place with a dab of superglue (using tweezers and patience...!)
 
Here's a pic of Ethalion with her teeth in!
Happy building
 
Rob

And a shot of the finished bulkhead temporarily placed in situ. The last step will be to glaze the windows. I've added the spirketting since my last post, too. Pleased with how it came out.

A couple of pictures of the bulkhead doors under construction. Because of the deck curve, each of the doors are slightly different in shape, so they were numbered in an attempt to help when it came to fitting.

I was looking at Ethalion yesterday evening and wondering why something was jarring. Earlier on in the build I'd decided not to have red bulkheads on the gun (upper) deck. Having just visited HMS Victory I thought I'd paint them white, but in retrospect, at 1:64 scale, it just looked jarring, and to my mind took away from the lovely yellow tone of the boxwood. So. After some careful masking, I decided to paint them ochre instead. The hope is this will tone them down so they sit more in the background. It will also be a good moment to add some of the detail on the deck.
 
This morning I decided I didn't like the look of the deck right towards the stern. I'm sure no-one will see it, but I know it's there. So, inspired by HMS Mercury, I drew up a bulkhead on QCAD, and have spent the day turning it into a reality.
 
Here's the pdf of the CAD drawing. (I make no claim to absolute authenticity, but it looks correct to my eye)
 
Artois.Gundeck_bulkheads.20180913.pdf
 
I pondered whether to use wood to make the bulkhead, but the details were so fine that I wasn't sure I was up to it. I didn't want it all to end up looking clunky and overscale... So I used a mix of 1mm plastic for the bulkhead shape, 0.5mm plastic for the uprights and top and bottom beams, and paper for the detailing. I still need to finish the doors (these will have boxwood windows as per the stern lights and quarter galleys. Having painted it ochre I'm pleased with the result so far (it still needs final fitting, and to have the doors attached - they'll be open a little). According to AOTS it should fit just behind the sternmost grating, and before the third gunports from the stern.



 
The white line along the bottom of the outer walls is where the spirketting will go (I've pre-painted some wood strip that will be fixed to neaten it all up)
 

I have now built and installed the rear cabin with it's companionway and skylight. This completes the deck items. The cabin was built up from boxwood strips, with some interior bracing to support the walls and roof. The skylight glazing is clear styrene sheet. The door handles are blackened pin heads.
 
The next thing to be done will be the lower deadeyes and chainplates.
 
Bob

Interim update:
 
Anchor chain is on finally, been putting this off but really had to get it done so I could permanently 'right-side' the model...its amazing how many configurations there are on models and there really doesn't seem to be a standard way.

 
Next up, as a break from the repetitious chore of the gun carriages, was to finish the pumps.  I'd been overthinking how to cover the curved surface of the pump covers.  In the end, 1x2mm strip was used, with one side angled - wasn't as bad as I thought.  Once attached, the thickness was sanded down to try to get a more scale look.  Winch bearingsfor the pumps were shaped from strip and painted 'dark iron'.  Brown paint was used to simulate the leather washer for the cistern plugs.  These will be a little obscured eventually, but I think these details will be visible.
 

 
Once the pumps were completed, the next logical step is to figure out how to support these at the main hatch.  The kits indicates using wooden strip for this, but contemporary models show an iron bracket and this is what I' like to try to replicate as it seems more appropriate.  The main part of the bracket was made using an RB models stanchion, bent to shape and with the hole enlarged with a 0.8mm drill bit to accept the winches that will eventually be installed.  The height of these needs to be the same as the winch bearings so that the winch will be parallel to the deck, and they need to be parallel to the deck and over the coamings so the main hatch is not obscured - so this essentially determines the lateral placement of the pumps.  I will add an additional bracket which would have been necessary for strength, and you can see a trial made up from some scrap PE to illustrate which I think will do the trick.
 
I found thinking this through all rather intriguing as there seem to be some obvious problems.  For anyone coming from the lower deck, the ladder feads directly over the main hatch grating, and the winch brackets definitely seem to get in the way a bit here here, in addition to having to navigating the pump winches.  I can't figure out for the life of me why the ladders don't lead up forward rather than aft as this would seem to be much more practical, but this orientation is clearly shown on the original plans, AOTS Diana, as well as contemporary models...if anyone knows why, please say so!
 
Now that the positioning of the pump winches is known, the placement of the pillars for the main topsail sheet and main jeer bitts can be determined...which will probably be the next diversion.
 

Lovely model Lin and great execution, shame you haven't shared progress up to now!  Will certainly be following you from here on, great subject matter.

Interim update:
 
Anchor chain is on finally, been putting this off but really had to get it done so I could permanently 'right-side' the model...its amazing how many configurations there are on models and there really doesn't seem to be a standard way.

 
Next up, as a break from the repetitious chore of the gun carriages, was to finish the pumps.  I'd been overthinking how to cover the curved surface of the pump covers.  In the end, 1x2mm strip was used, with one side angled - wasn't as bad as I thought.  Once attached, the thickness was sanded down to try to get a more scale look.  Winch bearingsfor the pumps were shaped from strip and painted 'dark iron'.  Brown paint was used to simulate the leather washer for the cistern plugs.  These will be a little obscured eventually, but I think these details will be visible.
 

 
Once the pumps were completed, the next logical step is to figure out how to support these at the main hatch.  The kits indicates using wooden strip for this, but contemporary models show an iron bracket and this is what I' like to try to replicate as it seems more appropriate.  The main part of the bracket was made using an RB models stanchion, bent to shape and with the hole enlarged with a 0.8mm drill bit to accept the winches that will eventually be installed.  The height of these needs to be the same as the winch bearings so that the winch will be parallel to the deck, and they need to be parallel to the deck and over the coamings so the main hatch is not obscured - so this essentially determines the lateral placement of the pumps.  I will add an additional bracket which would have been necessary for strength, and you can see a trial made up from some scrap PE to illustrate which I think will do the trick.
 
I found thinking this through all rather intriguing as there seem to be some obvious problems.  For anyone coming from the lower deck, the ladder feads directly over the main hatch grating, and the winch brackets definitely seem to get in the way a bit here here, in addition to having to navigating the pump winches.  I can't figure out for the life of me why the ladders don't lead up forward rather than aft as this would seem to be much more practical, but this orientation is clearly shown on the original plans, AOTS Diana, as well as contemporary models...if anyone knows why, please say so!
 
Now that the positioning of the pump winches is known, the placement of the pillars for the main topsail sheet and main jeer bitts can be determined...which will probably be the next diversion.