Beef Wellington

Marking of decks and gun ports opening is on the way.
 
To do the marking of the top rails,  the stick which keeps all the frames close to each other, had to be lowered. The lower  the stick is, the greater the distance between frames has the tendancy to want to expand. This is why tie wrap were added temporarily and this is why we always set these sticks at the top.

Glad to see you back Ferit.  Nice clean work as to be expected, the replacement grating looks much better.  Nicely done!

Very nice result, well done.  As for the photo, look for a very feint greyish 'x' in the bottom corner that allows you to delete photos that have been uploaded, but not inserted.

Beautiful work Tiziano

And a small update. Shrouds have been completed...

Thank you Michael, Mike and who liked...
A small update.
I do not know if I've done the right thing about the ropes of the anchors but there isn't any guide on the plans, in fact there isn't any rope in this area... It's my decision, right or wrong... :-/
Grating is now on its own place...
And there are somewhere some few blocks fixed on the masts...

Thank you Zappto and for the likes...
A minor update
Home made vs kit supply...

Update...
It's crude now and not glued...

Hi,
A very small wood work...
After B.E.'s and Jason's (Beef Wellington) advice and instruction at October 2013 (how does life flow?!)
I had decided to close the channels...
Now it's time to do it... First step...
(Comparison)

Very nice result, well done.  As for the photo, look for a very feint greyish 'x' in the bottom corner that allows you to delete photos that have been uploaded, but not inserted.

Thanks, druxey.
 
When I started working this morning, I noticed that where I left off last night shows just how much the hooked scarphs interlock. I was initially skeptical that those relatively small hooks would make a difference, but modeling the joint has shown me the exceptional strength this joint has created.
 
Mark

Thanks, everyone, for your support. I was taken away from the shop for a few days, to rig up a hoist for kayaks--real rigging.
 
I am starting on the lower two strakes of the wales. I originally cut the foremost planks at the round of the bow according to my CAD drawing. But when I spiled to the strakes already installed, I discovered that the upper curve was much more dramatic than my original piece. The photo below shows the original piece at the top, and the card with the spiled edge below, showing the difference in curvature. In hindsight, I realize that I assumed the wales would be dead straight vertical, since they are so at midships; not so at the bow or stern! I made xerox copies of the spiled card for port and starboard. A couple of more pieces for the mistake box.
 
I had spent a great of time on the first two strakes sanding and filing the edges of the planks. I did this freehand with shaped sanding blocks. The challenge was to keep the edge square, or tapered slightly where needed to tighten up the joint. It was a little hit and miss. So I am trying a little jig shown below, which clamps into my jeweler's vise block. The two hold downs secure the plank, and then I can run the sanding block against the edge, keeping it exactly perpendicular. When I need to angle the edge, I will slip a thin spacer under one edge of the plank to change its angle to the table.
 
Mark
 

I have spent a tedious weekend fairing up the lower edge of the upper two strakes of the wales. I had made each plank a bit oversize in width, concerned that the careful fitting of the hooked scarphs could throw off the outer edges slightly, and this proved to be the case. The upper edge is fair because of the batten, but the lower edge wavered a little from plank to plank. A simple matter to draw a line parallel to the top with the compass, and a not so simple matter of then fairing to the line. I had to use a coarse riffler in places, followed by a sanding block cut to the radius of the wale. For some reason, sanding was very slow, perhaps because I was not keen to use a coarser sandpaper and risk marring the lower edge.
 
Oh, well, who is in a hurry?
 
Mark

Good morning Mark,
 
these ties I have already, but not always installed. They are alway in the way if you would clamp down a plank.
 

 
One other problem is, that you could sometimes press a planks into the wood with your clamps. Also sanding is't easy, because the wood bents a little between the plywood and later you have there a bump. The wood would wait, until you are ready with your rulers, before coming out again  Also scribing is a problem. But problems are there, to be solved 
 

Very nice result, well done.  As for the photo, look for a very feint greyish 'x' in the bottom corner that allows you to delete photos that have been uploaded, but not inserted.

Including last night, I’m four rounds of casting into this process, but I think the first round (top row) is a total discard:
 


It’s hard to see, but there were a lot of air pockets in the volutes of the scrolls, and also at the tails of the scrolls.  After this first round, I found it helpfull to first prime the mould with resin, and then press the resin into the mould with a gloved finger.  Then, I would top off with just enough resin to get a good cure.  Lastly, I lightly drag a tooth pick into the crevices of the mould to draw out any remaining air bubbles.  You have to work quickly because the resin really does cure rapidly.  You have three minutes from the time you start mixing.  A little low heat from a blow dryer ensures a thorough cure.
 

The other good reason for discarding the first castings (left line) is that, initially, I was mixing twice the amount of resin that I really need.  That produces blanks that require a lot of wasting, just to remove the ground.
 
I found that even with the Dremel, the wasting step is a bit time consuming.  Drum sander, first, to reduce the perimeter and then roughly reduce thickness from the back of the blank.  Next, I use a cylindrical burr to get a little closer to the margins of the ornaments.  Finally, I take each blank to a board that I’ve double stuck 100 grit paper to.
 
This whole process has been trial and error for me, but that’s what learning is, I suppose.  The resin sands briskly, which is great.  My plan, however, to sand until the ground just falls away, was not so good.  The unnevenness of a single finger concentrating pressure in the center of a smaller carving, reduces the center faster and thins the carving too much in an effort to free the ends:
 

The ornament in the lower left corner is notably thinner than the others because of this.  Its bottom port corrollary was too thin to even use, so I threw it away.  I found it better to sand from the center until I just broke through between ornaments.  Then, I’d apply a little sanding pressure on each end, for a few strokes, but not breaking through.  Finally, I freed the carvings from their ground with an Exacto.  What you see above looks pretty decent, but I still had to do a significant amount of cleanup and a little re-shaping with blade and gouge.  The necessity for this varied with each port location:
 

Here, to the left, you can see the thinner top ornament.  Even though the weight of the ornament is noticeably lighter than the others, it works here because the available space for the ornament is smallest in this location.  Fortunately, this is a location above the new location for the main channel, so losing the bottom ornament didn’t matter.
 
Similarly, the aft most port cuts significantly into the wale, leaving only a small ledge for the lower port enhancement to sit on.  This is why, to the right, this lower port enhancement has been noticeably reduced. For the aft-most three ports, I found it useful to hedge a little bit and to split any overhang of the ornament between the bottom edge of the wale and the lower edge of the port frame.  I don’t think this is too noticeable.
 


On the whole - despite small variations - I am pleased with the results.  I may, yet, swap out a few ornaments for better balance, and I might extend a few ears that look a little short.  It’s more work than I anticipated, but the results justify the effort for me.
 
 

Hello BE ( and all the likes) ,
 
Well here's the pics.
The captain and me agreed for a console furniture as we were anxious that a solid cupboard probably might turn out to be boorisch inside our living space.
So I'd like to be sure if this console can carry 30 kilograms ( the frames are made of iron).
Aside from this : I'm looking for another -less plump- stand.
 
 

Looking good BE.  Looks like I'm a bit too late, but one thing I found  that works quite well for planking between the ports is to edge glue some planks together for the height needed and then shape/trim these back as a whole.  This allows the interior edge to be nicely aligned. without needed to scuff up any paint.

Good morning 

Hi
 
 

Hello
Work inside the hull

Alan - I take my hat off to you, you really are doing an amazing job and overcoming challenges.  I would love to tackle something like this one day, and its all the more impressive because you drafted the plans as well!  I'll keep looking in and learning.

Hello,
 
a smal update. Now I have planked the hull up to the waist rail.
 
What I have learned about this technic till now is, take better plywood and not balsa wood. For the under water ship it is may be ok, but now above the upper wales it's beginning to be too flexible because the walls here are too thin.  
 

 

Alan - I take my hat off to you, you really are doing an amazing job and overcoming challenges.  I would love to tackle something like this one day, and its all the more impressive because you drafted the plans as well!  I'll keep looking in and learning.

Um, maybe re-read post made by me last Sunday? See you tomorrow!