Beef Wellington

Not much progress, but I want to ask a question, so felt obliged to post  a few photos 
 
Progress made on the upper and lower counter rail.  These need to follow quite a curve, more so than they appear, and were pre-bent to shape using a failed counter template I had kept.  Seems very important visually to get a smooth curve.  The ends of these rails will need to butt up against the side gallery rails and so were angled to approximately 45% in preparation.  Using a single pin amidships proved to be the ticket here ensuring that the rail could be consistently placed while the ends were fine tuned - the small hole should be pretty easy to mask afterwards with filler.  The top rail is not glued in place yet, but its possible to get a feel for the run of these rails.  Overall, I'm rather relieved and pleased with how this turned out with the name placement.  
 

 
So, to my question.  The Diana kit provides two 'ladies' at either side of the stern fascia which are pretty good castings (represent the goddesses Hera and Athena from Jason's story) which I'd like to use.  The tafferal is quite thick, and when compared to the AOTS diagram, the female figures appear to have some depth.  I thought that by this time, complex carvings in the round would not be in vogue for economic reasons, so I'm wondering if what is illustrated is a simpler relief carving on an angled corner.  If so, then the approach could be to simply angle the corner.  The hesitation here is that after so much work on the stern, I'm wary of making a mistake...but I do like the more 'fitted' look in the AOTS picture as it seems to gradually transition the thickness of the tafferal in a visually pleasing way.  Angling the corner would be easier with the upper counter rail off, but until that's decided its a roadblock to moving forward with the rest.
 
Opinions, thoughts and recommendations sought...
 

Not much progress, but I want to ask a question, so felt obliged to post  a few photos 
 
Progress made on the upper and lower counter rail.  These need to follow quite a curve, more so than they appear, and were pre-bent to shape using a failed counter template I had kept.  Seems very important visually to get a smooth curve.  The ends of these rails will need to butt up against the side gallery rails and so were angled to approximately 45% in preparation.  Using a single pin amidships proved to be the ticket here ensuring that the rail could be consistently placed while the ends were fine tuned - the small hole should be pretty easy to mask afterwards with filler.  The top rail is not glued in place yet, but its possible to get a feel for the run of these rails.  Overall, I'm rather relieved and pleased with how this turned out with the name placement.  
 

 
So, to my question.  The Diana kit provides two 'ladies' at either side of the stern fascia which are pretty good castings (represent the goddesses Hera and Athena from Jason's story) which I'd like to use.  The tafferal is quite thick, and when compared to the AOTS diagram, the female figures appear to have some depth.  I thought that by this time, complex carvings in the round would not be in vogue for economic reasons, so I'm wondering if what is illustrated is a simpler relief carving on an angled corner.  If so, then the approach could be to simply angle the corner.  The hesitation here is that after so much work on the stern, I'm wary of making a mistake...but I do like the more 'fitted' look in the AOTS picture as it seems to gradually transition the thickness of the tafferal in a visually pleasing way.  Angling the corner would be easier with the upper counter rail off, but until that's decided its a roadblock to moving forward with the rest.
 
Opinions, thoughts and recommendations sought...
 

Not much progress, but I want to ask a question, so felt obliged to post  a few photos 
 
Progress made on the upper and lower counter rail.  These need to follow quite a curve, more so than they appear, and were pre-bent to shape using a failed counter template I had kept.  Seems very important visually to get a smooth curve.  The ends of these rails will need to butt up against the side gallery rails and so were angled to approximately 45% in preparation.  Using a single pin amidships proved to be the ticket here ensuring that the rail could be consistently placed while the ends were fine tuned - the small hole should be pretty easy to mask afterwards with filler.  The top rail is not glued in place yet, but its possible to get a feel for the run of these rails.  Overall, I'm rather relieved and pleased with how this turned out with the name placement.  
 

 
So, to my question.  The Diana kit provides two 'ladies' at either side of the stern fascia which are pretty good castings (represent the goddesses Hera and Athena from Jason's story) which I'd like to use.  The tafferal is quite thick, and when compared to the AOTS diagram, the female figures appear to have some depth.  I thought that by this time, complex carvings in the round would not be in vogue for economic reasons, so I'm wondering if what is illustrated is a simpler relief carving on an angled corner.  If so, then the approach could be to simply angle the corner.  The hesitation here is that after so much work on the stern, I'm wary of making a mistake...but I do like the more 'fitted' look in the AOTS picture as it seems to gradually transition the thickness of the tafferal in a visually pleasing way.  Angling the corner would be easier with the upper counter rail off, but until that's decided its a roadblock to moving forward with the rest.
 
Opinions, thoughts and recommendations sought...
 

Not much progress, but I want to ask a question, so felt obliged to post  a few photos 
 
Progress made on the upper and lower counter rail.  These need to follow quite a curve, more so than they appear, and were pre-bent to shape using a failed counter template I had kept.  Seems very important visually to get a smooth curve.  The ends of these rails will need to butt up against the side gallery rails and so were angled to approximately 45% in preparation.  Using a single pin amidships proved to be the ticket here ensuring that the rail could be consistently placed while the ends were fine tuned - the small hole should be pretty easy to mask afterwards with filler.  The top rail is not glued in place yet, but its possible to get a feel for the run of these rails.  Overall, I'm rather relieved and pleased with how this turned out with the name placement.  
 

 
So, to my question.  The Diana kit provides two 'ladies' at either side of the stern fascia which are pretty good castings (represent the goddesses Hera and Athena from Jason's story) which I'd like to use.  The tafferal is quite thick, and when compared to the AOTS diagram, the female figures appear to have some depth.  I thought that by this time, complex carvings in the round would not be in vogue for economic reasons, so I'm wondering if what is illustrated is a simpler relief carving on an angled corner.  If so, then the approach could be to simply angle the corner.  The hesitation here is that after so much work on the stern, I'm wary of making a mistake...but I do like the more 'fitted' look in the AOTS picture as it seems to gradually transition the thickness of the tafferal in a visually pleasing way.  Angling the corner would be easier with the upper counter rail off, but until that's decided its a roadblock to moving forward with the rest.
 
Opinions, thoughts and recommendations sought...
 

One side of wales continuously bolted:
 

 
The spacing is not absolutely perfect and uniform, but it would not be so, in life.  I worked the wales in consecutive pairs, four bolt heads per glue application, so that there would be a general sense of uniformity about the thing as a whole.

Not much progress, but I want to ask a question, so felt obliged to post  a few photos 
 
Progress made on the upper and lower counter rail.  These need to follow quite a curve, more so than they appear, and were pre-bent to shape using a failed counter template I had kept.  Seems very important visually to get a smooth curve.  The ends of these rails will need to butt up against the side gallery rails and so were angled to approximately 45% in preparation.  Using a single pin amidships proved to be the ticket here ensuring that the rail could be consistently placed while the ends were fine tuned - the small hole should be pretty easy to mask afterwards with filler.  The top rail is not glued in place yet, but its possible to get a feel for the run of these rails.  Overall, I'm rather relieved and pleased with how this turned out with the name placement.  
 

 
So, to my question.  The Diana kit provides two 'ladies' at either side of the stern fascia which are pretty good castings (represent the goddesses Hera and Athena from Jason's story) which I'd like to use.  The tafferal is quite thick, and when compared to the AOTS diagram, the female figures appear to have some depth.  I thought that by this time, complex carvings in the round would not be in vogue for economic reasons, so I'm wondering if what is illustrated is a simpler relief carving on an angled corner.  If so, then the approach could be to simply angle the corner.  The hesitation here is that after so much work on the stern, I'm wary of making a mistake...but I do like the more 'fitted' look in the AOTS picture as it seems to gradually transition the thickness of the tafferal in a visually pleasing way.  Angling the corner would be easier with the upper counter rail off, but until that's decided its a roadblock to moving forward with the rest.
 
Opinions, thoughts and recommendations sought...
 

Not much progress, but I want to ask a question, so felt obliged to post  a few photos 
 
Progress made on the upper and lower counter rail.  These need to follow quite a curve, more so than they appear, and were pre-bent to shape using a failed counter template I had kept.  Seems very important visually to get a smooth curve.  The ends of these rails will need to butt up against the side gallery rails and so were angled to approximately 45% in preparation.  Using a single pin amidships proved to be the ticket here ensuring that the rail could be consistently placed while the ends were fine tuned - the small hole should be pretty easy to mask afterwards with filler.  The top rail is not glued in place yet, but its possible to get a feel for the run of these rails.  Overall, I'm rather relieved and pleased with how this turned out with the name placement.  
 

 
So, to my question.  The Diana kit provides two 'ladies' at either side of the stern fascia which are pretty good castings (represent the goddesses Hera and Athena from Jason's story) which I'd like to use.  The tafferal is quite thick, and when compared to the AOTS diagram, the female figures appear to have some depth.  I thought that by this time, complex carvings in the round would not be in vogue for economic reasons, so I'm wondering if what is illustrated is a simpler relief carving on an angled corner.  If so, then the approach could be to simply angle the corner.  The hesitation here is that after so much work on the stern, I'm wary of making a mistake...but I do like the more 'fitted' look in the AOTS picture as it seems to gradually transition the thickness of the tafferal in a visually pleasing way.  Angling the corner would be easier with the upper counter rail off, but until that's decided its a roadblock to moving forward with the rest.
 
Opinions, thoughts and recommendations sought...
 

Thank you Martin, Mike , and Thomas.
@ Martin - I don't think I did anything special with the Breast railings, although I did drill sheave holes in the lower parts. The lathe extension really comes into its own for the  larger scale models, and it came in very useful for the Pegasus masts and yards..
@ Mike - I love all the Proxxon machines, they're perfect for my level and range of ship modelling.
@Thomas - I doubt you need any tips from me having looked at your Syren build.  I've also got the Long boat kit, along with 'Cheerful' but I'm very much drawn to Chuck's latest offering the 'Royal Barge'
 
The Rudder
Before I attend to the Splashboards and thole pins I think it better to make and attach the Rudder.
I used the kit provided piece as a template to make one out of Boxwood.

0377
The tiller is cut from Boxwood sheet and shaped with files. For the ball on the end a Boxwood parrel bead was brought into service.

For the Gudgeons, pintles, straps, and iron band around the tiller head I used brass strip chemically blackened.

0371
Speaking of gudgeons and pintles I have deviated from the kit.
Lavery (Arming and Fitting) indicates a different approach to hanging the rudder to that suggested by the MS kit.

0379
The rudder was hung on the sternpost by only two gudgeons and pintles. Unlike the rudder on a ship it was likely to be hung and unhung every time the boat was used and it needed to be easily removeable. The lower pintle was fitted to the sternpost rather than the rudder. It was very long and extended almost up to the waterline. The upper one was shorter and fitted to the rudder.
This makes quite a lot of sense if you imagine trying to ship a rudder in a pitching boat with the gudgeon below the waterline. Having a long pintle at the lower end would make for easier and quicker location of the rudder.
Looking through some of the drawings in the AotS Books – The Frigate Diana, Endeavour, show the ships boats with long pintles on the sternpost .

The arrangement is clear to see on Victory's Barge.

0383

0391
From a modelling aspect I find this method of hanging the rudder somewhat easier that the other method of having both pintles fitted in the rudder.
 
B.E.
 
 

Good morning, another pictures

Good day, indoor hull finishing and first adjustment of the outside and first cut in height of the excess part

As an example, here is a photo of a limber way on a ship.
The notch does not need to be very big.
http://www.atlasponant.fr/fiche/icono/Site/056KER001/#3
The building plank was 24 inches wide.
Reduced it to 19 inches.
It is now possible to work even closer to the work.

Hi mates & thanks for looking in. A little more progress  made - I have finished installing the main & mizzen mast back stays & the mizzen stays. The crowsfeet at the mizzen top are also done. The shroud cleats provided  are really nice,but looked a little large on the mizzen stay,so I had one a little smaller that I used. I will use the kit ones on the other areas where they are needed. Just about time to install that fragile bowsprit & hope I don`t snap it off while turning the ship back & forth.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Mark

This looks ghastly, but all of this will be covered with exterior wood later anyway.  Here, I'm going for accuracy and strength.  The stern "risers" have random pieces of basswood glued between them for strength.  The counter section also shows basswood pieces which have been inserted between the pieces from the actual templates, which have been sanded to shape.

I've been whittling away at the internal "structural" planking back to the bulkheads in order to allow the deck templates to seat properly.  The midsection is fitting well on each side, but I do have a worry about the bow section. There is quite a gap from the edge of the template to the side (same for the other side).  The internal vertical bulkhead template fits well in this area, so I'm a bit confused. 
 
Alan

Little progress - making and instalation of belaying pins.

-> GB: Despite your very unpleasant comments about my drawings, I post this sketch for the understanding of this forum members.
 
It can be seen that the transverse hole must be raised in the filling pieces in order to remain efficient. This also implies that the limber way must be able to collect the water, it must also be raised but especially staying under a strake.
 
Gérard Delacroix
 

Somehow completely missed this Hamilton, despite all the challenges to get to this point you should feel good that the first planking looks to be going so well.  Looking great.

Somehow completely missed this Hamilton, despite all the challenges to get to this point you should feel good that the first planking looks to be going so well.  Looking great.

Hello there!
 
I'm happy to say that I've officially gone (more or less) past the framework stage and am now planking the hull of the Bluenose! It's a very exciting time...particularly since I started this project about a year ago (when I first cut the out-of whack keel pieces and the bulkheads)....at this point it still looks a bit rough around the edges, but it's nice to feel like things are progressing.
 
I installed the middle waterway strip on the fore deck and the main waterway on the aft deck and then began planking downwards from there - thee strakes completed tonight before I had to take care of some chores before bed and watch Game of Thrones. Tomorrow will be more productive, I think....here are a few photos. I'll likely not post more until the hull planking is done, unless there's something interesting to note in it....In the meanwhile - enjoy!
hamilton

I've been moving along a little more quickly than usual, This has been for two reasons: first, there has been some rain that's cut down on golf time; second, and more importantly, I've been enjoying this build as much as any that I can remember, and I'm finding it hard to stop whenever I start working on it.
 
As a result, this past week I've done the interior bulwark planking, the forecastle deck planking (to the extent that it will be done), the stove pipe and the forecastle scuttle.
 
The bulwark planking was done with boxwood strip of various sizes, but all 1/32" thick. This was pretty straightforward, with the exception of the compound curves at the bow, which required considerable bending and twisting using wet heat. I have chosen to leave the bulwarks in natural wood (as did Hahn in the book), and they were finished with Wipe-on Poly.
 
I began the forecastle decking by cutting the margin planks from holly sheet using card templates. The remainder of the limited planking was done with holly strip. In order to do the deck planking, I needed to make up the stove pipe and scuttle coamings. I simulated the deck treenailing with golden oak filler in drilled holes. Halifax had an unusual arrangement where the the anchor cables came up through the forecastle deck. I drilled holes in the decking for these and then added pieces of drilled boxwood strip as reinforcement.
 
The coamings were made from boxwood strip and formed around the grating and the stovepipe base. The grating was done from some precut grating material I had on hand. The stovepipe base was styrene sheet and the stovepipe itself was made from two sizes of styrene tube. These were painted black. The last photos show the stovepipe and scuttle temporarily in place and also a dummy bowsprit which i used to fit the deck planking.
 
Bob

To gorington: The caulking is simulated with black paper glued to the planks.
Steering whell - the quarter deck is finished.

Time for my weekly update:
I did some decoration and I am very satisfied how it looks now
 
Hennie
 

In between filling a skip with a couple of tons of rubble and digging up the back of my garden, I have managed to get a bit more done.
 
The 7" armour belt has now been added to both the port and starboard sides. Hopefully I can smooth out the joins when it comes to painting and sanding.
 
A couple more pieces of brass etch have been added to the superstructure,  as well as construction of part of the second level. Not yet fixed in place as it will stand on a brass etch piece of decking yet to be fitted.
 
I think a few pieces of brass etch and castings to be added to the lower level of the super structure, and then I can think about painting the hull.
 
 
 

Hi all, trying to get the shipyard going again.  Decided to put some additional paint friezes on the lower finishing pieces which are all now glued in place and touched up.  Tried to make these a bit subdued, and mirrored a design appearing in one of the moldings at the stem.
 
Also made up what I think is technically the 'drop' proper, or alternatively the "round thing" which I'd been pondering for a while after committing to not to use the kit white metal parts.  The technique devised proved to be pretty easy to execute by simply gluing some 2mm think spare stock onto the end of some 4mm dowel. Using that as a guide to shape to be round and domed - these were then soaked in rubbing alcohol to separate again.  I'm waiting to glue these on as I suspect they will be too easy to knock off with the other work remaining to do at the stern.
 
Next up, I think I'm in a position to start getting some trim on and find out if there are any issues with the placement of the painted letters...

 

Looking great Carl, I still don't know how you deal with all those tiny pieces.