Beef Wellington

Finally I bought those copper sheets of 0,3mm and 0,5mm. No brass sheet or strips in the area to deal with..
It;s better to handle and cut the 0,3mm using simple scissor, so tha's my choise.

The second method is by calculating the distance of every circle for the iron using the yard diameter and the rule of "3,14"...
Here without space or distance between the yard and stunsail dummies...
The iron for the yard first using clockwise turn

I've used a tape to stabilize the two dowels how you see

Here is the counterclockwise turn for the iron of the stunsail, from a posterior view

And the anterior view

 
Thank you for your comments in advance, just to help me how to proceed.

I have now completed the upper hull planking. Before beginning, I had to cut away three of the frames to allow for the small gunport openings. As with the previous belt, this was done with boxwood strips without taper, first edge bent and then bent again horizontally to fit the severe bow curve. This planking was done with a combination of 1/16" x5/32 ", 1/16" x 3/16" and 1/16" x 1/8" strips to fit the dimensions shown on the drawings. BTW, the Lumberyard provided pear strips to do this planking, but I didn't like the material supplied and chose to use boxwood that I had on hand. The treenailing was done as before. After treenailing, the area was final sanded and finished with a coat of Wipe-on Poly. No further work will be done on the outer hull at this point
 
The next task is to cut the hull away from the jig.
 
Bob

Before beginning the upper hull planking, I had one more task: framing the quarter window opening. I first cut down one of the aft frames and then added strip pieces to create the framing.
 
After that, it was on to the planking. The main belt consisted of five strakes of 1/8" x !/16" boxwood strip.I also added a 1/16" square strip as a base for the molding that will go above this planking belt. The good news was that the planks are of even width throughout their length and did not require tapering. The bad news was that the bow is extremely blunt and required compound curves to obtain a good fit. My method to do this was to first soak the planks in boiling water, then edge bend them and then use my old heated plank bending tool (an Aeropiccola product that I've had for decades) to make horizontal bends. Some beveling was employed where necessary to ensure tight fit. I used a carpenters pencil to simulate caulking on one side and one end of each plank and glued each in place using carpenters glue on each frame and the mating edges of each plank. I'm sure that some will laugh at my "clamping" method. I've always found it more difficult than useful to fit fancy clamps to planking, and rely on low tech "five finger clamps" (my hands) to hold the planks in place with pressure until the glue grabs sufficiently. After rough sanding, I drilled and filled for the "treenails", using a #75 drill and walnut filler. After final sanding, I applied a coat of Wipe-on Poly and touched up the black paint on the wales.
 
Now, it's on to the remaining planking.
 
Bob

A number of things have been accomplished. First, I added the single strake of holly planking that I intend to have below the wales. Then, I made the fashion pieces that border the counter at the stern. These were cut from boxwood sheet and sanded to shape to fit. They were painted black and mounted. Next, I added black painted moldings to the lower and upper counter. Lastly, I applied a coat of Wipe-on Poly to the counter and the lower hull from the wales down.
 
Next up will be the planking above the wales.
 
Bob

With completion of the framing, it was time to make some decisions. First, I decided that I would leave the hull below the wales unplanked, except for a single strake of holly directly below the wale. Second, the hull above the wales would be fully planked on both sides. Third, I would leave fairing of the interior hull until I have completed the hull planking and have cut the hull from the framing jig.
 
Having made these decisions, it was time to begin the planking process. The first item was the wales. Since they were to be painted black, I chose to use holly which is easier to bend than boxwood, and made them in two layers, again for ease of bending and fitting. When they were in place, I painted them using multiple coats of ModelMaster engine black (the former Pollyscale). 
 
Next, I planked the stern counter and the lower portion of the transom. This was done with boxwood and was treenailed using the drill and fill method (which I intend to use for all of the treenailing). I trimmed back the wales to meet the counter planking. I still need to add moldings, finish the counter planking with Wipe-on poly and paint the wale ends black. This will be done later, as will the remaining stern transom work.
 
Bob

I have now completed framing of the hull with the stern framing and fairing. First, the stern frames were glued into place between the slots cut into the wing transom and the template cut from the plans and glued to the framing jig. Then, I cut pieces of boxwood strip to fit between the stern frames in curves set out in the plans. Next, I added the framing pieces between last hull frame and the outer stern frames. Lastly, I faired the entire stern assembly.
 
I am now moving on to start the wales and then the planking.
 
Bob

I spent the first part of my time since my last update completing the fairing of the hull. This involved first adding boxwood strip shim pieces to the frames that were low as a result of the the jig slot misalignments. This was tedious work, but straightforward and uneventful. I've attached photos of the faired hull which don't look all that different from the prior photos, but there really is a big improvement.
 
After completing the fairing, I turned to the stern framing. This presented some challenges. I quickly realized that the laser cut wing transom and stern frames were simply not right. After wasting some time trying to figure to ways to "improve" them, I decided that the easiest solution was simply to cut entirely new parts from scratch. I started with the wing transom, which required multiple efforts to get any thing that was any good at all. The plans don't really show it in any way, other than it's position, and the book photos are are also somewhat vague. I cut the part from boxwood sheet, rough shaped it to fit and cut notches in the top side with small chisels for the stern frames. I then cut and shaped the other two transoms from boxwood sheet and mounted all three. I did some rough fairing of the lower two transoms, but left the wing transom until the stern frames are in place.
 
The laser cut frames were simply too small and didn't match either the plans or my construction. I cut them from boxwood sheet, but have not mounted them yet. I have attached a photo of the rough wing transom and the stern frames before mounting. The photo also shows a laser cut frame, for comparison. The final photo shows the three transoms mounted. 
 
Next up will be the mounting of the stern frames and the remainder of the stern framing.
 
Bob

Nice progress Mike,really nice work.  Interested how framing up the the bulwarks goes for you.  I'm sure it takes extra time to get right but help but feel that the planking will be a little more satisfying for some strange reason.  The waterway sure is hefty on the Morgan, guessing its the super heavy industrial design to cope with all the whale gore.

Mike - you really are a prolific builder, obviously I'm pulling up a seat!

Wow..Christian, Doug, Pat, Harvey, Carl, Tom, Wayne, VACorsair, Eamonn, and the likes, thanks guys for interest and the overly kind words.  Narrative below will explain more, but think I've irrevocably stepped off the 'being happy with kit parts' ledge...this can only mean even slower progress...but perhaps more fun
 
I know I'm bouncing around a bit so apologies for that, but continuing foundational aspects which seem easier with the ship careened over on a towel.
 
Challenging Cheeks:
 
The kit supplied cheeks are hair rail are not that great.  The cheeks themselves come nowhere near to fitting the hull, and I'm pretty sure the hull form is correct.  The only option was to scratch my own cheeks.  Aside from the fit, they are also seem rather undersized.

The next consideration was the hair rail and lower cheek, and decided to go whole hog and redo these as well.  Given that there needs to be two of everything, I cheated and sparingly glued with PVA glue some 3mm sheet together and then cut to shape.  The pieces were then separated using rubbing alcohol, and voila, 2 matching parts with the work of 1!  These parts are still very slighty oversized to allow them to be fine tuned once other parts are made - necessary given I don't have any true plans to work from and that these pieces form quite a complex shape. 
 
Photos below show hair rail prior to separation.  The difference in dimensions is quite evident to that appearing in AOTS which I used as a guide for the scratch piece.

As a side note, the quality of the walnut parts are just not good, the main/false rail would need a lot a work to get presentable so suspect these will also be remade at some point.

The cheeks themselves took a long time (days) to get right due to the angled concave curve and lack of plans.  Pretty happy with the results, though the parts still need some fine tuning as the rails are a little thick still I think.  I'm hoping to use a scraper to give a profile to the edges, and a quick test shows that this should work OK even for a quick test.  This also commits me to what will probably be my first simple carvings on the scrolls, but that's for another day.
 

Side by side comparison of scratch vs kit supplied pieces..

The brig is now moving along nicely, a few mishaps that need sorting will be sorted and I am now adding some rigging to the foremast, the stays and backstays. I have rigged the heart blocks as best as I could make out from reading about seizing ect, so hopefully this is reasonably ok. Am loving this build, the ship masters will see issues I'm sure but the learning kerb is wonderful. Pictures added up to now as to where I am. Cheers all.
 
terry
 
 

Don't quite understand why some of my much older posts have reappeared, I'm still around and again busy in the man cave, ship building, but not any of my threads here on MSW, its another 1/200 Trumpeter kit Sovremenny, and to put it bluntly it is an awful kit to build, and not worthy to be listed on here, it is being put together solely for experience in airbrushing
 
Looked at the Victory yesterday, she is fine, so here is where I left her off in September 2016

Home again and back to work, so time for an update. I've made up and mounted the three square half frames at the stern. Same procedures as for the full frames. I also did some fairing while waiting for glue to dry. This was primarily in the midship area and consisted of using various sticks and blocks with 60, 100 and 120 grit sandpaper. Final fairing will be done when the frames are complete.
 
I'm now working on the stern cant frames.
 
Bob

After a bunch of shaping and cutting away, I am able to temporarily get the rudder in.  Next up is making the gudgeon and pintles.  Which include soldering and blackening.... Yikes, will be my first time doing both. 
 


 

Start of small boats production

I reproduce the parts and prepare them for casting

And some more cognitive photos ...

My matrix and my workplace. I began to multiply the mass details.
My injector, very old, many times remade and modernized. However, it works very well despite the age ...
Мои матрицы и мое рабочее место. Я начал размножать массовые детали.
Мой инжектор, очень старый, много раз переделанный и модернизированный. Однако работает весьма исправно не смотря на возраст...

If you do not mind, I'll sometimes take notes on the photo ... In my opinion, it's more informative than the general text. This forum is also viewed by my compatriots (Russian-speaking colleagues), so I will make notes in two languages. I met copied photos from this forum in other forums. Let. This will take into account the interests and conveniences of more of our colleagues and adherents of our hobby, art, sports of our way of thinking and living at last.

Bob, looking forward to learning more from you in this ship and especially the lumberyard kits, they look very nice indeed.  Really nice clean start.

Nice fix Christian, looks great.   I think I'm going to go and put the seats of ease in, but of course I'm no-where near as far advanced as you.

Nice fix Christian, looks great.   I think I'm going to go and put the seats of ease in, but of course I'm no-where near as far advanced as you.

Filling up the gaps on the Gallion
 
Things went less easy then I expected. But other Diana builders may perhaps take some benefit out of this. As the pics show : on both sides an eyebolt that receives standing rigging coming from the bowsprit obstructed somehow the operation so I could not reach into the corners. So one may want to fore these holes ( for the eyebolts ) just one or a few mm higher, building instructions were not that clear to me. Nonetheless I'm quite satisfied : this awkward void is filled up and the lads may feel a bit more comfortable...
First pic show the necessary tools and a try out made out of card
 
Now back to the yards !

So here I'am again.
It looks if I have done nothing but.....there are so many decoration that need to be painted.
And also all the beams that goes over the ship.
Between the beams there are coming also a lot of decorations .
But those has still be painted.
I'm feeling a little like Vincent van Gogh at the moment 
But before you are thinking that I abandoned the model ,a few pictures.
Enjoy .
 
Sjors