Beef Wellington

Just found you again BE, thankfully before you're finished.  The small boats are fascinating and this is definitely one that has tempted me.  I'm amazed that the flying transom only became detatched once, and have no doubt that the silk purse is not far away...definitely agree on the replacement of the transom panel.

Just found you again BE, thankfully before you're finished.  The small boats are fascinating and this is definitely one that has tempted me.  I'm amazed that the flying transom only became detatched once, and have no doubt that the silk purse is not far away...definitely agree on the replacement of the transom panel.

Looks great.  Was the primer that you used matte?  That would make seeing any imperfections that mush harder, as it looks like the finish has a satin finish which would show these much more.

You have a very fine model coming together here Brian.  Especially like your photos of the stern, the colour combination is very pleasing to my eye!  Will be following along from here...

Hancing pieces and volutes....
 
I'm a little embarrassed that it has been so long that I've been away, somewhat from the shipyard but also this wonderful site.  With the weather starting to turn and a bit more available time it seemed a good time to get back into things and try to pick up from a point that I left a little disheartened so many months ago.  To be able to move forward, I had to come up with a solution for the hancing pieces which should then really allow much of the final hull form to be finalised.  The problem I faced stemmed from the fact that I had to come up with a hancing piece volute 6mm high (per NMM plans) to transition the upper rails into the waist, and following a profile already established for the other rails.  Although these are not large details, they are features that to my eye need to be sufficiently elegant and accurate to avoid detracting from the lines of the hull.  I tried many different approaches, but here is the one that worked best for me and provided a method of construction that allowed consistent results.  I'll apologize in advance for quality of the photographs, I was so focused on the work and forgot to check the photo quality as I progressed.
 
2.2 mm holes were drilled using a pin vise into some 2mm pear wood (actually 1.5mm + 0.5mm pear laminated together cross grain because I didn't have any 2mm sheet stock), this matches the starting thickness used for the upper rails which started as 2x2mm square strip.  (A 2.2mm hole was found through visual trial and error to introduce the gradual narrowing of the rail into the end of the volute).  A 1.5mm diameter recess was then carefully made at the edge using a round needle file at 45deg to the bottom of the hole.  Each 'blank' was then cut from the sheet, given a slight reduced profile using an exacto blade, and a thin cut made above the filed lobe (explanation below). 

Small sections of 1.5mm diameter pear dowel were then glued into the 1.5mm recess, so they very slightly protruded above the top of the block.  Sufficient PVA glue was used to ensure that these were well bonded.  Once dry, a the top of the blanks were gently cut back and carefully finished against a circular sander so that the top edge of the blank was tangential to the top of the 2.2mm drilled hole (the cut previously made above the recess allows this section to release easily as it will no longer be needed.

A length of 2x2mm pear wood strip was scraped with the same molding profile as used previously in the build, but care taken to leave an untouched section toward the end.  The volute blanks were then attached to the unfinished end of the scraped molding.  PVA glue was used generously, and left to dry overnight to ensure a full strength bond.  Once dry, the excess was then carefully cut away to give proportions pleasing to the eye (mine at least) and ensure that the final volute form would be 6mm high.  The rough cut was then very carefully reduced to its final shape using various grades of sanding sticks.

 
Once the final shape was achieved, a profile needed to be introduced to match, and transition as smoothly as possible from the molding strip into the curve of the volute.  To do this I needed to create a second scraper profile at the very edge of a razor blade to work on the volute curve effectively (the scraper profile used previously for strip had been centered to give best control on straight strip).  This was performed very slowly as catastrophic failure would be very easy!  While it is true that it took multiple experiments to get this method down, it did work well and the four needed volutes were all first time efforts with no rework, and despite the many imperfections highlighted by the macro lens, the results to the naked eye exceeded my expectations.

In position, the volutes will now allow final shaping of the hull profile.  Onto the next challenges!

You have a very fine model coming together here Brian.  Especially like your photos of the stern, the colour combination is very pleasing to my eye!  Will be following along from here...

You have a very fine model coming together here Brian.  Especially like your photos of the stern, the colour combination is very pleasing to my eye!  Will be following along from here...

So, I have attached the transom decoration over the stern lights with the light frames painted black.  The decorative rail is running across the bottom, having painted it walnut with a dark highlight in the middle.  Getting it attached securely was a victory, but upon close inspection, I see a lot of areas where I could have done a better job.  I realize it isn't great work (or even good work), but I am learning a lot on the Granado as my second model ship build, and will try to apply my "lessons learned" in the future.  I still need to put the 1x4 mm walnut taffrail capping in place over the transom decoration, after it is shaped and painted dull black, then I will do some touchup and cleanup of the whole area.  It is amazing how dust gets everywhere.  I am also working on the quarterbadges, and have usurped @Timmo's approach, where I am going to make frames for the lights out of scrap brass wire from the kit.  I will take some more pictures as I proceed.  Finally, thanks for visiting the build and offering sage advice.  It is encouraging to know people are watching and willing to help the novices!  

So, I listened to all suggestions in response to my question about how to align and glue the steps to the outside of the Granado, which I had already treated with Danish Oil.  I decided that instead of waiting to order and receive Super Phatic Glue (it is not sold at Lowes, etc. as far as I can tell), I would follow the advice of Glen @glbarlow and build a jig and use medium CA, a glue that I have had a lot of experience and modest success using.  However, instead of building a wooden jig, I made a photocopy of the plan sheet showing the steps position, alignment, and spacing.  I printed it out, then used a scalpel to cut a square of the area containing the steps, and then I cut the steps out of the square, again using a sharp scalpel blade.  Crazy, I know.  I put just a little blue tack on the piece of paper, and then tacked it onto the side of the ship in the correct location.  Now I had a template for the steps alignment and position right on the side of the ship.  I then took each of my stair steps (5 per side), that I had stained and finished with Danish Oil, and holding them with fine point tweezers, I put a thin line of Loctite Medium CA along the step, and then carefully glued it in the correct position as indicated by the paper template.  In most instances I surprised myself, and I didn't shake or spaz around....I just glued it right onto the side of the ship in the correct position as shown by the template.  I had one step that I spazzed around with a little, and when I pulled the step back away from the ship, the unthinkable occurred.  Basically, I heard the tips of the tweezers snap closed and a millisecond later the sound of the step bouncing off of something and disappearing into thin air.   Some wise man once said "PUT A TOWEL IN YOUR LAP", which is almost precisely the words of wisdom frequently used by the Admiral (she also suggests a sheet under the work area).  Do I listen to these suggestions.  NO.  I searched and searched, and now face the ugly future when one of our schnauzers goes up to the Admiral with a step stuck in her beard, and the Admiral gets to say "what is this, and why does a dog have it, don't you know it could make the dogs sick if they ate this!!!!!", and "other ugly words".  So, then I had to get the part number, and then refer to the parts sheet, to see if the kit manufacturer had predicted the "oh cr*p" flight of the stair step and included an extra one.  Good luck for me, they had.  Before I went to retrieve the part from the sheet in the other room, I searched one more time for the missing piece, trying to avoid having to stain and finish another step.  Miracles of miracles, I found THE SPARE STAIR, all unfinished and sitting there on the work table trying its best to GET LOST.  At my age, you forget you had removed all 11 of them, and for some reason, you only work with the 10, and let the 11th spare start to wander around to be lost and forgotten.  If I hadn't looked one last time, I would have gone to the other room, removed the parts sheet, and seen that I had removed them all....and then tried to find it.  Hah, I win, I didn't have an unnecessary heart attack in this instance.  So last night, I stained the spare, and will be glueing the steps to the other side.  I took one of the steps that was ready for use, and glued it into the template to finish the one side, and then attempted to remove the template from around the steps without removing the steps along with the template.  Guess what, it mostly worked.  There were just one or two places where the paper didn't remove as cleanly as I would have hoped, but I could get it cleaned up with some tweezer work (see photo).  I also got the anchor (Franken)lining and fenders in place on both sides, as you can see in the second picture.  None of it is perfect work at all, but it is "not bad" by my newbie standards.  Finally, it has been my strategy to build as much of the deck equipment, etc. as possible before installing it, so that the fragile pieces aren't all broken due to mishandling or finger spasms.  For example, the elm tree pumps with their teeny tiny metal handles seem like parts that if installed too early in my shop would take a beating over the remainder of the build.  So, I have made them, but not assembled/installed them yet.  Recently, I decided I would make the tiller housing.  As I am prone to do, I looked at what @Timmo and others had done in the past, and saw that he had etched some decorative figuring in the sides of his tiller housing.  It occurred to me that I could do the opposite, and decided to glue decorative panels to the sides to give it a little bling (little being the operative word here).  I have included a picture of the tiller housing, with my teeny tiny kit bash in evidence if you squint and look closely enough.
 
 


 

 
I have come to the conclusion that the only way to make small things like the tiller housing look "good" is to include a picture of a dime or something to show the small size of these items.  In the absence of an indication of scale, everything looks "bad".  Live and learn.
 
Thanks for stopping by, and a BIG THANK YOU to @glbarlow, @allanyed, @Peanut6 and everyone else for the advice, encouragement, and tips and tricks.  Without everyone's help and push in the back, I would still be frozen in thought/inaction/fear.  Stay safe and be happy!
 
Brian

Post Five
I continued to use the provided strip for the planking and there is more than sufficient for the need.
A representation of the Garboard is fitted first, followed by a final spiled plank.

9331
I terminated this one on the third bulkhead leaving just the forward part that meets the stem and abuts the Garboard.
A drop plank of sorts was then formed to complete the planking.
 

9332
I didn’t get away without a little filler in the bow area, but once the frieze is added, along with rails, and the waterline is painted in, it should look ok.

9335(2)

9341(2)
With the bulkheads twisted away there is not too much cleaning up to do.

9345(2)
During construction the Flying Transom detached so this needed to be re-fixed.

9339
There is a lot of fettlin’ to do to shape the extended planking to conform to the Flying Transom arms.
The aim is to achieve that elegant sweep typical of Barges (and Pinnaces)
 
I think a few extra photo close-ups would have been helpful in the blurb to show the set-up more clearly.

9350
An additional planking section is required to be fitted over the arms, and shaped. (still w-i-p)

9358(2)
A brass etch transom panel is provided, but there are no photos of this in place, and it is not mentioned in the blurb.

9361(2)
I have decided not to use it except as a template to make a wooden version on which an appropriate design can be applied.
 
The macros are brutal at this stage, but with a fair wind and following sea hopefully a silk purse will emerge from this sow’s ear.
 
Onwards,
 
B.E.
15/11/2022




 
 

Post Four
Planking and more planking.
It is a slow business planking at this scale.
Each strake has to be tapered, bevelled, wetted, edge bent, wet fitted, clamped in place, and blasted with the hairdryer, and left until formed.

9259
These sectioning clips are ideal for the purpose, applying the right degree of pressure on this fairly delicate hull.
After what feels like half a lifetime the planking nears completion.

9307(2)

9309(2)

9310

9308

9319
A week’s planking leaves two strakes left to finish.
These will be the garboard plank and a spiled plank that will sit on the bottom of the hull out of sight.

9314

9318
I have not found planking an easy job on this project and it looks pretty rough at this stage, a lot of fettlin’ to do to get an acceptable finish.
 
Hopefully it will look a lot better in the next post.
 
B.E.
12/11//2020
 
 

Post Three
Bevelled bow patterns have been attached.

9202
These are tricky to hold for bevelling, I use my toolmakers clamp which works very well.

9211
Before the fairing is started, I add support blocks to protect the Flying Transom; at this stage it is very vulnerable.
 
For the fairing I am using 320 grade paper attached to various width sanding sticks. Being mdf the fairing is quickly done, the four bulkheads from the bow and stern are the ones involved.
 
As with all this range of boats the first plank rests on the shoulder of the bulkheads to give the correct line and sheer.
 
More easily said than done at the bow in relation to the Barge.
The bows of Barges were fairly bluff so there is a tight turn from the stem around the first two bulkheads.

9213
Coupled with this there is a sharp drop in shoulder levels from Bulkhead 1 to bulkhead 3 requiring lateral bending also of a greater curve than is easily achieved.
The instructions don’t mention any need for lateral bending on the first strake, only referring to tapering from the second strake plank.
To secure the planks spots of ca are used from the stem to the third bulkhead, and pva thereafter.

9217
After a fair bit of fiddling around including breaking the end off the first plank, I am relieved they are finally fitted.
 
I derived a small amusement that the box contained the statement Not suitable for children under 36 months
Double that, call it years, and then some, and I still wonder if it’s suitable.😉
 
I don’t think this is going to be an easy planking job.
 
Close examination of the prototype pics indicate that stealers have been employed at the bow and what look like broader planks for some of the strakes towards the keel.

Prototype close-up – the pdf photos are a little small for detail, but it can be seen how James achieved the result.
 
This will get the job done and as the hull is intended to be painted such simplifications are perhaps less relevant.
However, I will try to attempt a more conventional arrangement.
 
From the second plank tapering is indicated.

9222
I opted to leave the plank full, but edge bend it to follow the first.
 
On the question of tapering, the planks used are 2mm x 0.8mm which makes it difficult to adopt the usual tapering method of cutting the line using rule and scalpel.
Tapering is done by means of scraping and careful sanding on a flat board to finish. Any tapering should not exceed half the plank width ie 1mm.
Fortunately, I do have some 0.8mm Pearwood Strips in varying widths, which will give more options.

9228
It is more difficult edge bending the kit lengths as it has to be done at the end of the strip which is obviously less flexible.
Having soaked the planks, the bend was induced by hand, fitted to the hull, held in place as above, and blasted with the hairdryer.

9236(2)
Spots of ca are used to secure at the bow, with pva along the edge joints, and sparingly on the bulkheads, which will eventually be removed.

9234

9237(2)
The sheer of the hull can be seen in these shots.

9241(2)
Note the blocks glued to the base board to protect the delicate stem.
 
 Hours of unremitting fun now to be had completing the hull planking.🙄
 
B.E.
06/11/2022
 
 
 

Post Two
Not the most exciting part of a build, but I don’t think James has covered the Barge in his build logs, so I’ll run thro’ the initial stage.
 
The bulkheads fit snugly into the building board to the underside of which a grip is glued to secure in a vice.

9165
In short order the next stage is to fit the delicate Pearwood keel.
This is a soft hands procedure and care must be taken not to force the keel slots into the bulkhead slots which are very fine particularly those at the bow and stern.
I tested each keel slot against its bulkhead partner before attempting the keel fit.
9170

9167
The keel is eased into position, and I ensure it sits fully down on the bulkheads.

9173
The keel is also checked for true. Once satisfied diluted pva was run into the joints.

9186
Unlike other boats in the range the barge has a sub-deck. To fit this four of the bulkhead bridges have to be removed to allow access.

9177

9189

9192
One of the advantages of the sub-deck is that it should help to counter twist in the bulkheads once the fairing begins.

9193
The arms of the Flying Transom are glued into place.

9199
Fitting the Flying Transom is a tricky business, I opted to glue the arms to the fixed transom first, and then slotted the Flying transom between before the pva hardened off.
 
The hull is now set aside for the glue to set.
 
B.E.
04/11/2022
 
 
 

Looks great.  Was the primer that you used matte?  That would make seeing any imperfections that mush harder, as it looks like the finish has a satin finish which would show these much more.

Looks great.  Was the primer that you used matte?  That would make seeing any imperfections that mush harder, as it looks like the finish has a satin finish which would show these much more.

I've been building a smit Rotterdam kit and have painted my hull now onto the super structure. 
 
I used epoxy to seal the wood and get an even surface. Then used primer. The hull looked great until actual paint went on and I could see flaws everwhere. So sanded it back till it looked smooth paint again and still flaws. Sand paint sand paint....fast forward 5 cans later and I'm finally happy with the result. Here are my results 
 
Surely I've been missing some key tricks here? Is there a way to get a good finish without using a million cans and hours of sanding? 

Looks great, definitely intriguing to see how this beauty develops!

Moving along to finish the boxing joint.  The first segment of the keel is also laser cut in two layers.   There are laser etched numbers on them.   Glue these two layers together with the numbers facing each other on the INSIDE of the joint.   
 

This does a respectable job of simulating the box joint.

Then tweak as needed to get a tight fit with the stem assembly.  The seams will darken of course when I apply a finish.   But it has all been sanded.   After tweaking the ends of the box joint just a bit to get really tight seams I went over them in pencil again to make sure they would be visible once I apply some wipe on Poly.
 
You will also note how the remaining two segments of the keel are also done in two layers.   It will be impossible to tell that these are done in layers once the rabbet strip and the false keel are added.   It was a good solution to making what could have been a very complex and challenging box joint.   Bolts will be added later. 
 

 
 

Let me dive right in...
 
Dont forget that if you eventually build this kit,  the two volume set from Seawatch will be a must have.   Yes you will spot the differences easy enough,  but the books along with my instructions absolutely compliment each other and you will want to have them at your side.
 
I always like to begin by building the stem assembly.   As was true with Cheerful and the Winnie,  All of the parts are laser cut.  In this case yellow cedar was used.  But there is one major difference.  On the Winnie, you could just punch out the pieces and glue them together with little or no tweaking.  But this model is being built at 3/8" scale.  That means the parts are much thicker than with Winnie.

 
The laser cutter as you know will not cut with the edges at a perfect right angle.  Normally I would just flip some parts and that would do the trick so everyone would get a perfect fit with the edges fitting nice and tight.  These parts however are so thick that even with the best of laser cutter settings, more than just an exaggerated bevel is produced.   When the wood starts to reach 5/16" or 3/8" thick, the laser starts to introduce a slight curve as well.   Most of this can be compensated for by doing my usual flipping of parts.
 
But where the edge is narrower, lets say at the end of scarph joint....the flipping isnt enough.  So each part has been strategically made a fraction longer on one end only so you can make adjustments for the tightest fit possible.
 
In fact...most edges still dont need to be touched and I recommend that you dont touch almost all of them.  I have taken the liberty of circling every edge in the stem knee assembly that should be tweaked.   I am talking about knocking off the char and sanding the edge very slightly to get a really nice fit.  Just a few swipes with a sanding stick along these narrower edges and you will have a perfect fit.  Not too much though.  Test the it regularly and flip it over to look at the joint on both sides.   
 
Just a quick hitting with the sanding sticks on the edges marked with red circles will make these parts fit nice and tight.
 

Also Note 
 
The lower end of the stem will form an actual and true boxing joint.   But to simplify the building process this segment of the stem needs to be built in two layers.  I will do this a lot on this project which you will soon see.  Make sure you assemble the two layers carefully and have the longer piece on the correct side.   The two halves were glued together first and then that segment was glued onto the completed head/stem assembly after tweaking the scarph joint for a tight fit.  Hope that makes sense.
 

Also note above the dashed red line where the boxing joint will be.  The top layer of the stem was left a bit longer than needed to assure it could be trimmed back flush with the end of the gripe.  I used a sharp #11 blade to slice it back so it was flush and neat.  You can see this was done on my assembly already but once you glue that segment of the stem on your assembly you will see its just a hair too long....that was done intentionally so you could get a great fit on your model and the boxing joint will have nice tight seams.
 
Once completed the thinner knee of the head was also sanded and installed...note how that is pre notched to receive head timbers much later in the project.  Just center it port to starboard.   Dont sand any laser char off at all until you test it on your assembly.   It will fit almost perfect from the get go so only the edges that are visible after gluing it in position should be sanded free of char.  This piece can be delicate so more than one laser cut piece is provided just in case.
 
Now it was time to thin down and taper the entire head assembly to receive the figurehead.  The fore edge of the stem was sanded so a graceful bevel was introduced.  Just like on the Winnie.   The forward edge was reduced to 4mm so the space between the legs of the figure will actually fit.  Otherwise the figurehead will not fit...I wont go nutty with the instructions here because so much of this is repeated from the Winnie and other projects.   But this completes the first part of of the project which means its truly official now.
 

While I have been continuing to research the rigging outfit, another member has completed a remake of one of the lifeboat-cutters.  The Victoria carried two, one of 27' the other 30' - the remake was to correct the length of the second one as we found that info a little later.  I have still to add a vermillion painted rubbing strake, the falls hook on/slinging points and a few details, such as boat badges, masts, ropes, bailers, etc. 
 
These boats had cork, covered with canvas, floatation in the bow, stern and along the sides which is why they look so 'full/thick'.  
 
cheers
 
Pat

Maybe it works better in the northern hemisphere where it was made😁😁  bath drain effect 😁

Hi folks, this post is one for those interested in just how much scale rope would be required to fully rig a vessel in the mid-19th century (steam/sail).  HMCSS Victoria was rigged as a three masted Barque with a full outfit of fore-and-aft sails).  After transcribing a copy of her Rigging Warrant into an Excel Spreadsheet, I used some background formulas and pivot tables to calculate the various sizes of thread I would need and was very surprised with the result.  This may not surprise the more experienced modellers, but needing over 71 metres of running rigging scale rope was somewhat enlightening for me   (and that doesn't include some of the extraneous stuff like lacings, some rigging tackles, gun tackles, boat rigging (5 x boats) etc. 

 
Please note that I am using silver grey thread to simulate the wirerope rigging - using wire would simply destroy the rigging fittings at this scale.  I am posting an example of one of the worksheets (that for the Bowsprit and combined Jib Boom) the spreadsheet.
 
The scary bit - how do I make 0.1mm rope  I think I will just have to find some suitable sized thread, or simply round these out a bit and use say only 3 or 4 sizes but stick to the principle of lighter ropes to the upper rigging etc.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hancing pieces and volutes....
 
I'm a little embarrassed that it has been so long that I've been away, somewhat from the shipyard but also this wonderful site.  With the weather starting to turn and a bit more available time it seemed a good time to get back into things and try to pick up from a point that I left a little disheartened so many months ago.  To be able to move forward, I had to come up with a solution for the hancing pieces which should then really allow much of the final hull form to be finalised.  The problem I faced stemmed from the fact that I had to come up with a hancing piece volute 6mm high (per NMM plans) to transition the upper rails into the waist, and following a profile already established for the other rails.  Although these are not large details, they are features that to my eye need to be sufficiently elegant and accurate to avoid detracting from the lines of the hull.  I tried many different approaches, but here is the one that worked best for me and provided a method of construction that allowed consistent results.  I'll apologize in advance for quality of the photographs, I was so focused on the work and forgot to check the photo quality as I progressed.
 
2.2 mm holes were drilled using a pin vise into some 2mm pear wood (actually 1.5mm + 0.5mm pear laminated together cross grain because I didn't have any 2mm sheet stock), this matches the starting thickness used for the upper rails which started as 2x2mm square strip.  (A 2.2mm hole was found through visual trial and error to introduce the gradual narrowing of the rail into the end of the volute).  A 1.5mm diameter recess was then carefully made at the edge using a round needle file at 45deg to the bottom of the hole.  Each 'blank' was then cut from the sheet, given a slight reduced profile using an exacto blade, and a thin cut made above the filed lobe (explanation below). 

Small sections of 1.5mm diameter pear dowel were then glued into the 1.5mm recess, so they very slightly protruded above the top of the block.  Sufficient PVA glue was used to ensure that these were well bonded.  Once dry, a the top of the blanks were gently cut back and carefully finished against a circular sander so that the top edge of the blank was tangential to the top of the 2.2mm drilled hole (the cut previously made above the recess allows this section to release easily as it will no longer be needed.

A length of 2x2mm pear wood strip was scraped with the same molding profile as used previously in the build, but care taken to leave an untouched section toward the end.  The volute blanks were then attached to the unfinished end of the scraped molding.  PVA glue was used generously, and left to dry overnight to ensure a full strength bond.  Once dry, the excess was then carefully cut away to give proportions pleasing to the eye (mine at least) and ensure that the final volute form would be 6mm high.  The rough cut was then very carefully reduced to its final shape using various grades of sanding sticks.

 
Once the final shape was achieved, a profile needed to be introduced to match, and transition as smoothly as possible from the molding strip into the curve of the volute.  To do this I needed to create a second scraper profile at the very edge of a razor blade to work on the volute curve effectively (the scraper profile used previously for strip had been centered to give best control on straight strip).  This was performed very slowly as catastrophic failure would be very easy!  While it is true that it took multiple experiments to get this method down, it did work well and the four needed volutes were all first time efforts with no rework, and despite the many imperfections highlighted by the macro lens, the results to the naked eye exceeded my expectations.

In position, the volutes will now allow final shaping of the hull profile.  Onto the next challenges!

Great result on the binnacle, and love those close in deck shots which really show the scale and detail authenticity.  BTW, love your statement "Everything I attempt is taking a lot longer than envisaged."...can certainly relate!

Flying operations from a QE class BB at Scapa Flow. Seaplane Carrier Ben my Chree about to secure to a buoy

 
w/c 16" x 11"