Beef Wellington

I ended up finishing the three quintuple torpedo launchers this weekend.  Only 36 pieces of PE per launcher 😳  All in all I think they came out ok.  
 

 
Since I'm planning on doing a diorama setting, I decided to make a few modifications.  First, I opened the hatch on one of the turrets: 
 

 
Second, I had found an aftermarket set of torpedo launcher covers, and decided to add them to the launchers as they had a little more definition than the kit plastic, and I was able to model one of the covers open:
 

 
 
Next I worked on the twin 25mm AA gun.  There is only one of these, and Infini has you build it completely from PE.  This time only 18 pieces.  I couldn't get a decent macro photo on my phone, but hopefully this gives an idea.  I'm really impressed by what companies like Infini can do with brass.  There's so much detail it's pretty amazing.
 

 

 
Thanks for looking in!

Quick update on the log.  I finished the three main gun turrets, and started work on the Type 0 quintuple torpedo launchers.  A lot of the detail on the kit parts is scraped off and replaced with PE, which adds a little more definition to the parts.  I would say that the railings and ladders are the biggest improvements, but otherwise, the kit parts are fairly nice:
 

 
There are three of these to build, then a whole bunch of AA guns, ammo boxes, etc.  These destroyers really packed a lot on their decks.  
 
Thanks for looking in!

For us working stiffs in the US, hope everyone is having a nice Labor Day!
 
Thought I was at the point where I could update the log.  Slow and steady progress here.  Got the hull and deck items primed and painted.  I used Mr. Surfacer 1500 (black) from a rattle can as primer, and then sprayed a coat of Tamiya XF-87 IJN Grey - Maizuru arsenal.  I have to say, while when first starting out I enjoyed the simplicity of using Vallejo paints, I'm now just about converted over to Tamiya and Mr. Color.  The finish just seems to be nicer, and the spray is more uniform.  Plus, Vallejo tends to gum up my airbrush which is annoying, so small price to pay in using thinners to clean out Tamiya from the airbrush which leaves it fresh.
 

 

 

 
Not a great picture, but here you can see where I replaced the kit molded-in vent on the starboard side with a better looking one from Black Cat:
 

 

 
I'm still trying to decide whether to attempt oil canning effects. It looks really cool, but I'm wondering how much of that effect will be noticeable if in a diorama setting.  I may just try it to get experience with it.  Looks like a lot of tape to paint the vertical and horizontal lines, but I'm not exactly clear on the technique.
 
The linoleum deck pieces come in molded brown plastic.  The Infini upgrade set has you scrape off the molded brass bars, and replace them with actual brass bars.  For this kit, Hasegawa sells a linoleum deck sticker that you attach onto the kit parts after scraping off the molded bars.  Since I had the sticker upgrade, I went ahead and used it.  It's very crisp looking, and fit like a charm.  My guess is that I can add a clear coat to it, and then weather it.
 

 
I've also done some work on the funnels.  Infini gives you quite a a lot to dress them up, from the rings around the funnels to the ladders leading up them. I'm planning to paint them with the white stripes, which is requiring a lot of planning and steps to get it right.  They are halfway done so hopefully I'll have a decent result to show soon.  In the meantime, here is a picture of the funnel tops dressed up in the Infini PE.  I've said it before, but Infini did a really nice job with this set.
 

 
Finally, here are two of the 12.7cm main gun turrets dressed up with the Infini upgrades, shown against the kit part.  Quite a lot of extra detail for sure!  Next to stairways, which I think I've figured out. railings like this are my nemesis as you have super tiny glue anchor points.  The trickiest part for me was to figure out how to glue the top rail, which comes in one piece and extends around the full top, coming down to the front and curving around.  Lots of movement had to be worked in, and it's hard dealing with a long PE strip like that.  For me, it was easiest to start by gluing the middle of the strip to the back side of the turret, then slowly working each side around.  Once the PE is anchored, it was easier to glue the sides down.  Even then, gluing the top rail probably involved close to an hour of work on each.  In total, there were 13 PE parts per turret, and took me the better part of the weekend to complete.  I also made the mistake on the first of sanding off two ridges on the sides, which I thought were the kit's attempts at railings, but turned out they weren't.  🤬  All wasn't lost as I ended up gluing some 0.2mm wire to replace what I sanded off, and they looks like the original thing.  All in all, a lot of work and I'm pretty happy how these came out.
 

 
I still have to do the actual guns part.  Infini has you remove the guns from the kit part and replace them with nice brass guns.  Haven't decided whether to completely assemble the guns, paint gray, and later come through and paint the blast bags white, or paint the turrets and the guns separately, then assemble.  I find it can be tricky painting white over very dark surfaces, which makes me lean towards painting them separately then assemble them.
 
Thanks for looking in!

It's been a while, but thought I should update the build log.  I've made slow and steady progress, and am just about at the point where I will paint the hull.  I'm mostly using the Infini upgrade set, but in some cases, the Hasegawa PE set offers details not in the Infini set or that seem a little better.  Took a while to sort out things out as to what I'm going to use, and the timing of when to use it (Hasegawa's instructions have you build things a bit differently, but maybe they aren't expecting one to paint, weather, etc.).  
 
I made a few modifications to the hull, adding aftermarket brass bollards, capstans, etc.  The kit ones weren't too bad, but I thought the brass items offered a little more definition and crispness.  I also noticed in the two build books that there was a small vent on the starboard side of the bow.  I managed to find an aftermarket set of extra vents from Black Cat that I added as well.
 

 

 

 
Also added some other PE details here and there that I aded to the hull.  I messed up the first set of Infini ladders, but found another Infini ladder set that gave me the replacements I needed.
 

 
I also added PE to a number of the deck structures.  I have a few other details to add to the bridge it looks like from the Hasegawa set.  I'll probably also replace the side vent on the bridge, which seem awfully squished, with the Black Cat vents.  
 

 

 

 

 

 
I have a few ladders and other add-ons to put on the hull, and then will paint.  I want to get as much done on the hull as possible to avoid having to glue on things later and address excess glue.  Of course that means I need to be a little more careful handling the hull, but I picked up a hull cradle that might give a little extra protection.
 
Thanks for looking in!
 

Steamship Heinrich Kayser
 
Introduction to this build log, by Nils Langemann
 
The steamship Heinrich Kayser was launched in 1898 baptized to its birthname „Elbing“ and was one of the typical new fast merchant vessels built for the D.A.D.G. (Deutsch Australische Dampfschiffahrts Gesellschaft) shipping company at the FSG shipyard in Flensburg, northern Germany. It served the trade route Europe via Cape of Good Hope or via Suez Canal and the red sea and across the Indian Ocean to several Australian Ports together with her sister ships on regulary basis for many years.
After WW1 and in compliance with the Treaty of Versailles demands the Elbing went under command and management of a british shipping controller, from which the “Elbing” was bought back again by the Hamburg based Kayser & Sohn shipping Company in 1921, which renamed the vessel to “Heinrich Kayser”. In 1922 my grandfather was appointed as the master in command on its last fatal voyage from England to the US eastcoast, down to Florida and back touching Norfolk Virginia as last port and thereafter went down with all aboard her in a heavy full gale and with broken rudderchain and broken hatchcovers. The last SOS radio signals came from position of the New England Seamount Chain, some 500 miles off the US eastcoast where the Atlantic is 5000m deep. No survivers, not a trace was ever found. This type of ship was a mere cargo steamer of 5600 tons, which may have been able to accommodate 2-3 passengers, midships. The Heinrich Kayser was capable of cruising at max. of 12 knots with her twin-boiler arrangement in tandem setup, and having appr. 20 firemen (stokers and heaters), working in shifts to keep the boilers at pressure accordingly.
I built this model, which is already completed to date, after a shipyard overview plan in honor to my grandfather and all its 43 souls crew and three passengers.
It is only a couple of weeks ago that per incidence, and 91 years after that foundering, on a raised web forum thread I was able to take up contact with an american lady, who`s great grandmother as well as her great aunt have been on board the Heinrich Kayser at that time and lost their lives as passengers way back in 1922
The build log shall comprise probably 21 individual parts due to limit of pics per post, and shall document all building sequences in pictures. Comments, questions, etc. shall be welcome and answered along with the build log as it grows.
The model took me appr. 1800 manhours to build over 2 years including the search for a plan, new modeling techniques like metal- plating /”riveting”, soldering, glass-case making, all trials, etc.
The fully completed model can be viewed in my album (steamship Heinrich Kayser) under topic : Gallery of completed scratch built models
Have fun and enjoy whilst studying this oldtimer steamer of 1898 in its buildup
 
Nils
 
Here it Begins.....
 
Build log part1
 

this is one of the ship under its birthname "Elbing"
 

this is one of the very last Pictures of the Heinrich Kayser
 

overview plan frontsection
 

overview plan aftsection
 

stringers and single-layer planking in pine
 

 

 

planking under way, propshaft built in
 

Frame plan, self drawn, not included in overview plan
 

planking nearly completed
 
 
 
Part 2 to follow....

The residual copper nails used to attach copper plating to the hull are probably the significant clue to the wreck being a Royal Navy vessel as this was universally adopted in late 18th Century.  I believe there were also a small percentage of British merchant ships copper plated in this period, but given the expense it would probably be more likely on those travelling in warmer waters.  Not familiar with Baltic Navy's coppering practices, but I suspect this would be far more limited due to coppering benefit primarily being protection in warmer waters, and the fact that these Navies would not have the same global cruising grounds.

Hi Jan!
   You are right in both cases: these are spare propeller blades and small ventilation cowls , there were a lot of them on the ship.

The residual copper nails used to attach copper plating to the hull are probably the significant clue to the wreck being a Royal Navy vessel as this was universally adopted in late 18th Century.  I believe there were also a small percentage of British merchant ships copper plated in this period, but given the expense it would probably be more likely on those travelling in warmer waters.  Not familiar with Baltic Navy's coppering practices, but I suspect this would be far more limited due to coppering benefit primarily being protection in warmer waters, and the fact that these Navies would not have the same global cruising grounds.

I think there are a number of somewhat misleading statements made in the article especially regarding the potential size and nature of the wreck, but intriguing none-the-less.  Will be fascinating to see how much is preserved and whether this is truly a 'warship'. 
 
https://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-10087485/Mysterious-40ft-long-shipwreck-Royal-Navy-warship-discovered.html

The two supervisors are doing a good job, because the one working seaman has tied those ratlines nice and neatly.
 
Cheers,
 
Martin

Standing rigging
 
 
Mizzen mast
Again I started low and aft at the mizzen mast with the standing rigging.
First I prepared the tackles and shrouds around the masthead. Then, after putting up the first three shroud pairs, I installed the respective stay and tried to balance the forces on those lines, while keeping the mast upright. Several deadeyes had to be reset to get an more or less even distance from the deadeyes on the channels. Then the remaining shrouds were set up. First priority always has an equal pull on all the shrouds and the deadeyes forming nice parallel lines only second. In fact I think that on real ships all those ropes constantly worked and resetting of the shroud lanyards probably was an constant process, keeping an even pull on all that shrouds during hot, cold, dry and humid weather. I doubt that every time the deadeyes were newly aligned as well. At least this is my excuse for the uneven line of my deadeyes.
 
To set up the ratlines (yay!) I used cow hitches at the ends and clove hitches between.
 
Finally the crowfoot was set up.
 
A first few corrections to the strength of some lines in the plans were necessary:
- the strength of the futtock shrouds on all masts is of course the same as that of the associated topmast shrouds.
- the catharpins in the plans are to fat. According to Lees they should be 25% of the main shrouds which are 1,3mm - I took 0,25mm line for the catharpins.
 

 
one seaman to set up the ratlines and two to supervise him - efficient would be different...
 


 
 
 
 
 
 

I think there are a number of somewhat misleading statements made in the article especially regarding the potential size and nature of the wreck, but intriguing none-the-less.  Will be fascinating to see how much is preserved and whether this is truly a 'warship'. 
 
https://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-10087485/Mysterious-40ft-long-shipwreck-Royal-Navy-warship-discovered.html

I think there are a number of somewhat misleading statements made in the article especially regarding the potential size and nature of the wreck, but intriguing none-the-less.  Will be fascinating to see how much is preserved and whether this is truly a 'warship'. 
 
https://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-10087485/Mysterious-40ft-long-shipwreck-Royal-Navy-warship-discovered.html

Hi 😊

I think there are a number of somewhat misleading statements made in the article especially regarding the potential size and nature of the wreck, but intriguing none-the-less.  Will be fascinating to see how much is preserved and whether this is truly a 'warship'. 
 
https://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-10087485/Mysterious-40ft-long-shipwreck-Royal-Navy-warship-discovered.html

I think there are a number of somewhat misleading statements made in the article especially regarding the potential size and nature of the wreck, but intriguing none-the-less.  Will be fascinating to see how much is preserved and whether this is truly a 'warship'. 
 
https://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-10087485/Mysterious-40ft-long-shipwreck-Royal-Navy-warship-discovered.html

I think there are a number of somewhat misleading statements made in the article especially regarding the potential size and nature of the wreck, but intriguing none-the-less.  Will be fascinating to see how much is preserved and whether this is truly a 'warship'. 
 
https://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-10087485/Mysterious-40ft-long-shipwreck-Royal-Navy-warship-discovered.html

Very nice looking stern Dunnock!  Its amazing how much work needs to go into this area but the results speak for themselves.  BTW, I think you are referring to the "rudder coat".

Completion of the Module #4: Galley and Smoke house + Dinghies: 
 

 
The dinghies were printed by a friend who is an expert with Resin 3D printers. I tried to print them with my PLA printer and the results were mediocre at best. With the resin printing, they came out really nice and smooth. Printing these dinghies required tilting the design, to allow for a smooth result as shown on the picture below:  
 

 

 
All the benches and floors are from the BENSWORX kit and have been covered with some 1/32 inch planking. The tillers are simply a tooth pick....
 

 
More pictures of the finished module: 
 

 
The davits again, gave a very poor result on the PLA 3D printer. I decided to just keep the bases, drill them and use a brass rod of 1.5 mm to build the upper part of the davits. They look a hundred times better.... The rope drums are the drums from the kit, but simply reduced at 75% during the printing process. These smaller units are more in line with the davits.
 

 

 

 

 
The dinghies are still missing the oars, being painted....
 

 

 
Notice on the above picture the two ladders (can we call these stairs?) going from the forecastle deck to the lower deck. Ladders are from the kit but the piece of upper deck was described in a previous post and is not part of the kit. Trying to get as much resemblance to Snowberry as possible...
 

 

 
A couple of overall views of the beast: 
 

 

 
With the deck in place, it is now really looking like a Corvette: 
 

 

 
Next will be Module #5, the engine room. The next module is a significant amount of work due to the numerous parts going on top of the engine room. I will be describing it in a little while.
 
Yves
 
 
 
 
 
 

Not that much done today but enough.. a bit more work later to be done later this evening.
 
The counter has been soaked and pinned (but not glued).  I wondering if this in right position .  Feels (mentally) like I"m too far astern and it needs to in the direction of the arrow.

Copper plating the rudder was challenging because of the changing angles and cut-outs but any small gaps I have covered with Tamiya copper paint.

 
 The pintles and gudgeons are made from 3x3 boxwood planed down to 2x2. The pintles proved relatively straight forward with holes for the pins drilled before cutting the strip down to size. I made the spectacle plate from leftover stanchions from HMS Fly cut down and twisted into the right shape. The position and sizing of the gudgeons needed more care, each being placed separately and alignment with the rudder checked. The top three gudgeons I pinned in place but the lower four are just ca’d.
 

The first two gudgeons fitted

 Completed and rudder mounted
 
The photo-etched straps were too thick to allow free movement of the rudder and anyway were not sized correctly for my boxwood version so I used black card cut into 2mm strips following the pattern given in AotS.
 

 

 
I will add the cloak (not sure of the proper term) that seals off the rudder from the sea and the chains at a later date.
 
I think the next stage will be to work on the lower/gun deck. The stern was complicated enough and judging from other logs, the head looks more so, therefore I’m putting off work on this area to another time in the hope of tackling something simpler.
 
David

There surely is, but not one I made.

 
Together with a 24-pounder long gun I found it in a small village shop many years ago. The barrels are cast iron and the woodwork Oak.

 
Nice items and very heavy, not sure of the scale but the long- gun barrel is 15½” muzzle to button, and the Carronade 11½”

The Breeching ropes I made myself at The Chatham Naval Dockyard on their demonstration ropewalk.
 
B.E.
 

Post twenty
 
That fairing business
Looking at the hull, the topsides have a subtle and rather elegant concave shape to the bulkheads and gunport frames.
On my model the gunport frames stand a little proud of the bulkheads, and I am concerned not to alter the shape of them.

0437
My first task is to sand the vertical gunport frames in the vertical plane, flush with the bulkheads.

0440
I then sand the longitudinal frames.
At this point you will see that all but one of the aft bracing jigs has broken off.

0445
Finger Sanders are used for this job.

0442
I then move onto sanding the whole side down to the point where the char is removed from the bulkhead edges.
For this I use the coarse side of a soft sanding block, moving along and downwards.

0447
I am now starting to use a test plank to check along the topsides. I check at different points down to the Upper deck level
What I am looking for is any indication of lumps or depressions as the plank passes across the bulkheads.
 
Moving on, below the lower deck, fairing the bulkheads continues.
Bulkheads 5- 7 only need the char removing, from 8 aft the chamfer increases as with from 5b forward to the bow.

0456

0458

0461
Again, a test plank is constantly used to check that full contact is made across all bulkheads.

0468(2)
 

0470(2)
I’ll faff around with this for a while yet, or at least until my patience wears out, but time spent on this not particularly enjoyable phase of a build does pay dividends later on.
 
B.E.
29/09/21
 

Post Nineteen
Fitting out the Foc’sle
A modest modification but one that cleans up the area around the bow.

0411
A paper pattern from the plan is used to mark out the area.

0420
Fairly straightforward, spare Pearwood from the bulwark and spirketting frets cut to fit.

0421
Frame 1-1 (with the notched extensions to take the carlings for the Fore deck) may yet be shaped to represent a  knee below deck level.

0426
I am pleased to note that Chris has taken into account the difference in size of the Bridle port, something I failed to modify on my Pegasus build, and it still niggles.
 
For the present that’s all that’s required for this modification.
 
Before I add any paint to the model or add the upper deck planking it makes sense to me to get the outboard fairing done, so this will be the next task.
 
Oh what joy.
 
B.E. 24/09/21
 

 

Post Eighteen
Modifications, Modest and Middling.
Waterways
I fitted waterways and scuppers to Pegasus, so there’s no reason not to do so on the larger Sphinx.
Rooting around my timber stock I found some 1mm Pearwood square stock, probably also supplied by Chris with one of his other kits.
The tricky bit is chamfering an angled face on this tiny strip to take part of the scupper.
I fitted the strip first and then used a micro chisel to cut the angle.

0400(2)
Scuppers are 4”ø  in the round, scaling to 1.5mm holes.
The pre-cut scupper holes on the provided etched deck are around 1.2mm ø.

0402(1)
The scupper is angled downward part thro’ the waterway and part on the Margin plank.
That’s it for the present, I will need to represent the lead flanges at some time later in the build.
 
What to do about the Bow space.
As mine is a modification build my eyes are constantly being drawn to that area of the Upper deck below the Foc’sle.

0399
This is an unfinished area, no internal bulwark planking, unfaired frames, and an engraved closed bridle port lid on the outer planking pattern, which closes off any possible view of this area.
 
What should be there is internal planking running to the stem and breast hooks with the hawse holes between.
What is provided is the Bowsprit step, the Riding Bitts, and the Fore Jeer Bitts.
 
Full modification is not possible because of the kit design but there is stuff that can be done that gives a more realistic impression.

0409(2)
To get an idea I put into place those fittings in this area.
Note: Stage 522/523 of the blurb covers the Fore Jeer Bitts(463) There is a note that the slot in the Gundeck on early batches of the kit needs easing to accept the shaft of the bitts which plugs into the lower deck.
One of the arms of this ‘Y’ shaped piece broke along the grain line whilst trial fitting, Glued together using Aliphatic Resin glue, but it remains to be seen how strong the repaired piece will be.
 
With the parts in place, I can see how to proceed.
 
The bulwarks will be faired, planked and spirketted with the intention of leaving the Bridle ports open.
Manger boards will be installed between the Bowsprit step and the forward side of the Bridle Port.
The Foc’sle will be planked to the extent that the forward Bulkhead is covered and obscured from view.
 
Better get on with it then.
 
B.E.
23/09/21