Beef Wellington

Finding a little time to update some (small) progress, thanks everyone for the interest, comments and likes.
 
@Eamonn, @Mike - One comment off the bat, certainly would not want to be claiming this approach as my own.  I think we all stand on the shoulders of others, and it was Rob's Ethalion build that inspired me to try this approach...how's it going?  Read on....
 
Before pressing forward with the deck, I had to decide how the companionway cover would sit.  While not being quite sure how much would be visible through the tiny windows, the decision was made to once again install some false beams and carlings for the companion cover to sit on.  This sits quite nicely in place, and is once again put aside for final detailing.

 
Jumping into planking proper, it quickly became clear that initial steps required a bit of fine tuning.  Once the various coaming are glued into position, quite a bit of  care is needed to ensure alignment to the centerline, and also address any potential symmetry issues.  It was necessary to re-attach the rear hatch coaming as it was clear that this was slightly off-center and the misalignment would have been emphasized by the run of the planks.  The only other slight complication was the need to cut custom planks to flank the hatchway, capstan step and rear grate coamings.  Not difficult, just time consuming to ensure a fit and keep the necessary curvature for the run of the planks.
 
Overall, pretty happy with how this is turning out.  The only other thing to comment on is that the decision was made to plank the top-tackle and pump scuttles which seems more consistent with the original plans, rather than the raised gratings suggested by the kit. 
 
Note - The planking lines drawn onto the subdeck are not 100% accurate, and they're there just to help plan the butt-shift and get a better sense for the how the alignment will eventually run into the waterway.  There's also a little bit of pencil lead smudging from the caulking which always seems unavoidable and hasn't been cleaned up yet...

 

Finding a little time to update some (small) progress, thanks everyone for the interest, comments and likes.
 
@Eamonn, @Mike - One comment off the bat, certainly would not want to be claiming this approach as my own.  I think we all stand on the shoulders of others, and it was Rob's Ethalion build that inspired me to try this approach...how's it going?  Read on....
 
Before pressing forward with the deck, I had to decide how the companionway cover would sit.  While not being quite sure how much would be visible through the tiny windows, the decision was made to once again install some false beams and carlings for the companion cover to sit on.  This sits quite nicely in place, and is once again put aside for final detailing.

 
Jumping into planking proper, it quickly became clear that initial steps required a bit of fine tuning.  Once the various coaming are glued into position, quite a bit of  care is needed to ensure alignment to the centerline, and also address any potential symmetry issues.  It was necessary to re-attach the rear hatch coaming as it was clear that this was slightly off-center and the misalignment would have been emphasized by the run of the planks.  The only other slight complication was the need to cut custom planks to flank the hatchway, capstan step and rear grate coamings.  Not difficult, just time consuming to ensure a fit and keep the necessary curvature for the run of the planks.
 
Overall, pretty happy with how this is turning out.  The only other thing to comment on is that the decision was made to plank the top-tackle and pump scuttles which seems more consistent with the original plans, rather than the raised gratings suggested by the kit. 
 
Note - The planking lines drawn onto the subdeck are not 100% accurate, and they're there just to help plan the butt-shift and get a better sense for the how the alignment will eventually run into the waterway.  There's also a little bit of pencil lead smudging from the caulking which always seems unavoidable and hasn't been cleaned up yet...

 

Hi No Idea, very much enjoyed reviewing your progress to date.  I can't believe that this is your first scratch build, as everyone has said your work is so clean and precise.   I especially appreciate you sharing how you do some of the basic wood working, that often seems to be 'assumed knowledge' and seeing what you've done here definitely has shown that it might just be possible at some point in the future to attempt something like this.  Will be watching closely from here on in as this will surely be a beauty.
 

And finally the metal bracing 

Now a dark wash to bring out the planks
 
 
and a buff overspray to represent wear 
 

Interesting development...Divers are making a digital map of 17th century warship 'The London'

Hi No Idea, very much enjoyed reviewing your progress to date.  I can't believe that this is your first scratch build, as everyone has said your work is so clean and precise.   I especially appreciate you sharing how you do some of the basic wood working, that often seems to be 'assumed knowledge' and seeing what you've done here definitely has shown that it might just be possible at some point in the future to attempt something like this.  Will be watching closely from here on in as this will surely be a beauty.
 

Interesting development...Divers are making a digital map of 17th century warship 'The London'

Interesting development...Divers are making a digital map of 17th century warship 'The London'

Interesting development...Divers are making a digital map of 17th century warship 'The London'

I actually managed to get some more frames in today which wasn't planned but you've got to take the time when its available!
 
I've now raised frames 16 - 23 and they seem to have gone in nice and straight.  There were no real issues it was just a case of repeating what I have already done.  
 
The floor chocks with the limber channel start to rise at frame 20 so there are a lot of bespoke pieces to be made.  The rise starts off very slight and becomes much more pronounced as you move towards the stern.  These chocks also rotate their limber channel 180 degree's at frame 23.  I missed this until it was too late so mine will have to rotate at frame 25.  Some you win and some you loose I guess.
 
Cheers Mark

A few pictures of what is now starting to look like a ship.
 

I'm glad to say that the sternpost has turned out ok.  I did forget to put a tar line across the bottom of the false sternpost but I'll correct that with a line of paint probably in 2023 when I'm nearly finished 🤣  I now have a nice and straight keel which exactly aligns with the plans.  I've made a start on the stern rising wood and also the part that holds the transom parts.  All of the parts need finishing off at a later date but so far so good.  I did make the mistake of drilling the rising wood with 3mm holes - I put 2mm holes in the frames!  Oh well its no big deal I'll sort it out when the time comes.  I think I'll enlarge the frames to suit the rising wood.  These pieces also require tapering so I need to put some thought into how I'm going to do that but tomorrow's another day.
 

Hi Alan thanks for the comment
 
I've now finished the final 5 frames as they have the bolts and notches in them.  I've made some minor errors which hopefully will be ok when its time to install them.  If not I don't mind remaking as many as needs be.  So thats the frames finished for now so I'm going to make a start on the keel tomorrow.  I just need to work out my wood sizes from the scantlings and I'm away.  Please excuse the wonkey stack of frames but its the best I could do and after taking the pictures I noticed that frame 8 is upside down!!

Just a quick update.
 
The 5 frames are now glued together and I'm getting on with bevelling them.  I've done frame 28 and the pictures are of frame 32 sanded to shape which I think has come out quite nicely.  When I started this build I never realised that some of the frames would consist of 13 individual parts.  It make things much more interesting even if they are not seen when it's finished.
 
 

Finding a little time to update some (small) progress, thanks everyone for the interest, comments and likes.
 
@Eamonn, @Mike - One comment off the bat, certainly would not want to be claiming this approach as my own.  I think we all stand on the shoulders of others, and it was Rob's Ethalion build that inspired me to try this approach...how's it going?  Read on....
 
Before pressing forward with the deck, I had to decide how the companionway cover would sit.  While not being quite sure how much would be visible through the tiny windows, the decision was made to once again install some false beams and carlings for the companion cover to sit on.  This sits quite nicely in place, and is once again put aside for final detailing.

 
Jumping into planking proper, it quickly became clear that initial steps required a bit of fine tuning.  Once the various coaming are glued into position, quite a bit of  care is needed to ensure alignment to the centerline, and also address any potential symmetry issues.  It was necessary to re-attach the rear hatch coaming as it was clear that this was slightly off-center and the misalignment would have been emphasized by the run of the planks.  The only other slight complication was the need to cut custom planks to flank the hatchway, capstan step and rear grate coamings.  Not difficult, just time consuming to ensure a fit and keep the necessary curvature for the run of the planks.
 
Overall, pretty happy with how this is turning out.  The only other thing to comment on is that the decision was made to plank the top-tackle and pump scuttles which seems more consistent with the original plans, rather than the raised gratings suggested by the kit. 
 
Note - The planking lines drawn onto the subdeck are not 100% accurate, and they're there just to help plan the butt-shift and get a better sense for the how the alignment will eventually run into the waterway.  There's also a little bit of pencil lead smudging from the caulking which always seems unavoidable and hasn't been cleaned up yet...

 

Finding a little time to update some (small) progress, thanks everyone for the interest, comments and likes.
 
@Eamonn, @Mike - One comment off the bat, certainly would not want to be claiming this approach as my own.  I think we all stand on the shoulders of others, and it was Rob's Ethalion build that inspired me to try this approach...how's it going?  Read on....
 
Before pressing forward with the deck, I had to decide how the companionway cover would sit.  While not being quite sure how much would be visible through the tiny windows, the decision was made to once again install some false beams and carlings for the companion cover to sit on.  This sits quite nicely in place, and is once again put aside for final detailing.

 
Jumping into planking proper, it quickly became clear that initial steps required a bit of fine tuning.  Once the various coaming are glued into position, quite a bit of  care is needed to ensure alignment to the centerline, and also address any potential symmetry issues.  It was necessary to re-attach the rear hatch coaming as it was clear that this was slightly off-center and the misalignment would have been emphasized by the run of the planks.  The only other slight complication was the need to cut custom planks to flank the hatchway, capstan step and rear grate coamings.  Not difficult, just time consuming to ensure a fit and keep the necessary curvature for the run of the planks.
 
Overall, pretty happy with how this is turning out.  The only other thing to comment on is that the decision was made to plank the top-tackle and pump scuttles which seems more consistent with the original plans, rather than the raised gratings suggested by the kit. 
 
Note - The planking lines drawn onto the subdeck are not 100% accurate, and they're there just to help plan the butt-shift and get a better sense for the how the alignment will eventually run into the waterway.  There's also a little bit of pencil lead smudging from the caulking which always seems unavoidable and hasn't been cleaned up yet...

 

I've had a go at building the first of the 4 forward rising frames.  This is frame number one and it needs to be spot on as all of the hawse timbers are attached to it later.  I think if I get this one wrong it will have a lot of knock on consequences later in the build.  Just out of interest what do you all think is a good wood to make tree nails from to complement Castello?  Bear in mind that I will need to source it in the UK and I quite like the subtle look.  I do have quite a good stock of pear and mahogany but I would very much appreciate any advice.
 
I used a photocopy of the plans to workout and check the angle where the frame meets the rising wood.  There's also a lot of material to remove too to get the bevel.  I must also thank Barkeater as he helped me to understand the drawings of the rising frames as I just couldn't see them until he explained - cheers mate!
 
 

Next was to make a small piece of the rising wood so that I can glue the floor timber and the cross chock together. I would love to be able to say that my first frames went together with no issues - but no!  I had sanded them far too much and had to make them again.  Its not a problem I'm in no rush. 

I wasn't sure whether to put a build log on here as this is my first POF build and I'm not sure how it will go.  I keep on asking random questions about issues that I've had, and to me it would be better to put them all in one place.  So I've taken the plunge and I'll give it a go.
 
I'm building Le Rochefort using the Ancre Monogragh which in itself is a lovely piece of work.  I'm also using the book by Adrian Sorolla called Model Shipbuilding Dockyard Style.
 
So why Le Rochefort and also at 1/24th scale?  I chose this ship after having communicated with a few people on this forum as to what a good first ship would be.  I didn't want to start something that I would loose interest in due to my lack of skills and experience.  I only ever build one ship at a time and my last two boats have been POB builds at about the same size as the 1/24th scale version.  So building in this size will feel familiar to me and let's be honest we all like a big ship!
 
Time is one of my biggest issues as I'm a truck driver and my job takes me away from home all week, so I only get to work on it at the weekend which also has to fit in family time.  So thats an introduction of me and why I'm building this lovely ship so I believe its the right thing to put a bit of history on here too.
 
Le Rochefort 1787
 
This is the third ship of this name and was built in Rochefort France in 1787 on the plans of Hubert Penevert.  It was classed as a yacht and was designed to navigate the shallow waters of the Charente.  Its job was to carry powder from the safe port of Rochefort to the larger fighting ships that could not sail the Charente and as such had to wait in deeper water in the estuary.  Its design was very detailed such as specific instructions on how the hold must be fully planked and caulked and a floor above the keelson.  This details were all about keeping the powder dry.  One funny reference is to the ships kitchen and how it says that it may not be used with powder on board.
 
So I hope all of the above makes sense as I'm certain that I will need to ask many questions.  The good news is my kit has arrived in the form of Castello planks
 
Mark

Finding a little time to update some (small) progress, thanks everyone for the interest, comments and likes.
 
@Eamonn, @Mike - One comment off the bat, certainly would not want to be claiming this approach as my own.  I think we all stand on the shoulders of others, and it was Rob's Ethalion build that inspired me to try this approach...how's it going?  Read on....
 
Before pressing forward with the deck, I had to decide how the companionway cover would sit.  While not being quite sure how much would be visible through the tiny windows, the decision was made to once again install some false beams and carlings for the companion cover to sit on.  This sits quite nicely in place, and is once again put aside for final detailing.

 
Jumping into planking proper, it quickly became clear that initial steps required a bit of fine tuning.  Once the various coaming are glued into position, quite a bit of  care is needed to ensure alignment to the centerline, and also address any potential symmetry issues.  It was necessary to re-attach the rear hatch coaming as it was clear that this was slightly off-center and the misalignment would have been emphasized by the run of the planks.  The only other slight complication was the need to cut custom planks to flank the hatchway, capstan step and rear grate coamings.  Not difficult, just time consuming to ensure a fit and keep the necessary curvature for the run of the planks.
 
Overall, pretty happy with how this is turning out.  The only other thing to comment on is that the decision was made to plank the top-tackle and pump scuttles which seems more consistent with the original plans, rather than the raised gratings suggested by the kit. 
 
Note - The planking lines drawn onto the subdeck are not 100% accurate, and they're there just to help plan the butt-shift and get a better sense for the how the alignment will eventually run into the waterway.  There's also a little bit of pencil lead smudging from the caulking which always seems unavoidable and hasn't been cleaned up yet...

 

Finding a little time to update some (small) progress, thanks everyone for the interest, comments and likes.
 
@Eamonn, @Mike - One comment off the bat, certainly would not want to be claiming this approach as my own.  I think we all stand on the shoulders of others, and it was Rob's Ethalion build that inspired me to try this approach...how's it going?  Read on....
 
Before pressing forward with the deck, I had to decide how the companionway cover would sit.  While not being quite sure how much would be visible through the tiny windows, the decision was made to once again install some false beams and carlings for the companion cover to sit on.  This sits quite nicely in place, and is once again put aside for final detailing.

 
Jumping into planking proper, it quickly became clear that initial steps required a bit of fine tuning.  Once the various coaming are glued into position, quite a bit of  care is needed to ensure alignment to the centerline, and also address any potential symmetry issues.  It was necessary to re-attach the rear hatch coaming as it was clear that this was slightly off-center and the misalignment would have been emphasized by the run of the planks.  The only other slight complication was the need to cut custom planks to flank the hatchway, capstan step and rear grate coamings.  Not difficult, just time consuming to ensure a fit and keep the necessary curvature for the run of the planks.
 
Overall, pretty happy with how this is turning out.  The only other thing to comment on is that the decision was made to plank the top-tackle and pump scuttles which seems more consistent with the original plans, rather than the raised gratings suggested by the kit. 
 
Note - The planking lines drawn onto the subdeck are not 100% accurate, and they're there just to help plan the butt-shift and get a better sense for the how the alignment will eventually run into the waterway.  There's also a little bit of pencil lead smudging from the caulking which always seems unavoidable and hasn't been cleaned up yet...

 

Thanks for the likes.
 
A short update.
 
The gap under the outboard end of the tafferal will be filled with a quarter piece, which will extend down to the wale. It’s a complex shape as it has to blend with the counter, be shaped to suit the PE decoration which will adorn it and taper to nothing at the wale. The photo shows the two quarter pieces after shaping. Each is about 25mm long and is laminated simply because I didn’t have a suitably sized piece of wood - they are to be painted.
 

 
Two photos showing the piece in place.
 

 

 
I didn’t like the rather ugly box (on the left in the photo) that was provided as the cover over the rudder head, so I made a new, smaller, octagonal one.
 

 
In doing so, I freed up enough room between the rudder head and the transom to install an ensign staff, following the description in TFFM. The staff apparently has two small sheaves in the cap, so I’ve assumed two halliards would be present and I’ve added two cleats on the transom for them. I also made a new tiller and attached two small rings at its end with a simulated iron band.
 

 
Cheers

Thanks for the likes.
 
A simpler binnacle than the one provided in the kit was made following advice from Blue Ensign and Greg Herbert - thanks guys.The photo shows it roughly in place on the deck.It will be finally fixed quite a bit later.
 

 
The capping rail is made up of four laser-cut pieces that go on the fore and quarter decks, and in the waist, the instructions say to use 1.5mm thick strip here. When I offered up a section, it seemed to me to be too thick, so 1mm strip was used instead. Slots in the bulwarks for the catheads were cut before the capping rail was glued in place.
 

 

 

 
The inboard end of the kit supplied catheads are at the  wrong angle to allow them to fit under the capping rail and sit flush on the deck. While sanding a more correct angle, I broke one of the catheads and so had to make two new ones. Holes were drilled in the outboard ends to simulate the sheaves that would be there - the instructions do not mention these, nor do they mention cutting the slot first. It would certainly be tricky to cut the slots after the capping rail was in place, which is what the instructions say. The photo shows the kit supplied cathead on the left and the new one on the right.
 

 
The catheads loosely in position, they will be removed for now and fastened sometime later.
 

 
I have made a start on the fascia and tafferal at the stern. I prebent the tafferal then glued the fascia to it. I then added the windows to the tafferal. To ensure the PE window frames finished up flush with the outside of the tafferal, a piece of strip wood was held in position as shown in the photo.
 

 
The frames were then inserted from the rear and gently pushed home against the strip. A thin bead of epoxy was run along the edges of the frames to hold them in place. As I did with the quarter lights, gloss pale blue paper was used to represent glazing of the windows. These were individually cut and a small amount of PVA used to glue them in place. 
 

 

 
The next job will be to do something about the very obvious gap under the lower, outboard ends of the tafferal.
 
Cheers
 
 

Hi, and thanks 🙂 Allan, I am looking at the drawings, and I was wondering if there were any gratings in the lower and upper decks, I only see them shown in the forecastle deck, it's correct?