HSM

A few things that I have in my workshop that I like:
 
I have several switches all next to each other that are run to plugs on the workbench. One powers the mini table saw, one the drill-press, one the disk sander and the other the vacuum. I can turn on and off the vacuum and any of the other 3 tools with one hand.
 
Wire one plug above the workbench to the lightswitch, and color that plug red. Use that plug for a soldering iron or plank bender, so even if you forget to turn it off, it goes off when you leave the shop and turn off the light.
 
Have an area for painting and staining. Hang a shower curtain(s) as best you can to section off that area and have an exhaust fan sucking from that area. Keeps the fumes out of the house very well!
 
Lots of light, with one movable so you can focus it on your workspace.
 
Have a deep laundry sink for cleanup.
 
In cabinets, drawers are better than doors/shelves, and more small drawers are better than fewer large drawers. Most of the parts and tools we use are small so large drawers get cluttered fast.
 
Opposite to the previous item, thin drawers with a large footprint (think map drawers... maybe 10cm tall...) are great for storing different cuts of wood, plans, metal, etc...
 
I have a foot-switch that I plug my dremel into. The switch on the dremel is always on, but the tool only runs when I step on the switch.
 
A drying-rack made out of wire shelving suspended below a furnace duct.
 
That's all I can think of right now, but there may be more...

A few things that I have in my workshop that I like:
 
I have several switches all next to each other that are run to plugs on the workbench. One powers the mini table saw, one the drill-press, one the disk sander and the other the vacuum. I can turn on and off the vacuum and any of the other 3 tools with one hand.
 
Wire one plug above the workbench to the lightswitch, and color that plug red. Use that plug for a soldering iron or plank bender, so even if you forget to turn it off, it goes off when you leave the shop and turn off the light.
 
Have an area for painting and staining. Hang a shower curtain(s) as best you can to section off that area and have an exhaust fan sucking from that area. Keeps the fumes out of the house very well!
 
Lots of light, with one movable so you can focus it on your workspace.
 
Have a deep laundry sink for cleanup.
 
In cabinets, drawers are better than doors/shelves, and more small drawers are better than fewer large drawers. Most of the parts and tools we use are small so large drawers get cluttered fast.
 
Opposite to the previous item, thin drawers with a large footprint (think map drawers... maybe 10cm tall...) are great for storing different cuts of wood, plans, metal, etc...
 
I have a foot-switch that I plug my dremel into. The switch on the dremel is always on, but the tool only runs when I step on the switch.
 
A drying-rack made out of wire shelving suspended below a furnace duct.
 
That's all I can think of right now, but there may be more...

A few things that I have in my workshop that I like:
 
I have several switches all next to each other that are run to plugs on the workbench. One powers the mini table saw, one the drill-press, one the disk sander and the other the vacuum. I can turn on and off the vacuum and any of the other 3 tools with one hand.
 
Wire one plug above the workbench to the lightswitch, and color that plug red. Use that plug for a soldering iron or plank bender, so even if you forget to turn it off, it goes off when you leave the shop and turn off the light.
 
Have an area for painting and staining. Hang a shower curtain(s) as best you can to section off that area and have an exhaust fan sucking from that area. Keeps the fumes out of the house very well!
 
Lots of light, with one movable so you can focus it on your workspace.
 
Have a deep laundry sink for cleanup.
 
In cabinets, drawers are better than doors/shelves, and more small drawers are better than fewer large drawers. Most of the parts and tools we use are small so large drawers get cluttered fast.
 
Opposite to the previous item, thin drawers with a large footprint (think map drawers... maybe 10cm tall...) are great for storing different cuts of wood, plans, metal, etc...
 
I have a foot-switch that I plug my dremel into. The switch on the dremel is always on, but the tool only runs when I step on the switch.
 
A drying-rack made out of wire shelving suspended below a furnace duct.
 
That's all I can think of right now, but there may be more...

A few things that I have in my workshop that I like:
 
I have several switches all next to each other that are run to plugs on the workbench. One powers the mini table saw, one the drill-press, one the disk sander and the other the vacuum. I can turn on and off the vacuum and any of the other 3 tools with one hand.
 
Wire one plug above the workbench to the lightswitch, and color that plug red. Use that plug for a soldering iron or plank bender, so even if you forget to turn it off, it goes off when you leave the shop and turn off the light.
 
Have an area for painting and staining. Hang a shower curtain(s) as best you can to section off that area and have an exhaust fan sucking from that area. Keeps the fumes out of the house very well!
 
Lots of light, with one movable so you can focus it on your workspace.
 
Have a deep laundry sink for cleanup.
 
In cabinets, drawers are better than doors/shelves, and more small drawers are better than fewer large drawers. Most of the parts and tools we use are small so large drawers get cluttered fast.
 
Opposite to the previous item, thin drawers with a large footprint (think map drawers... maybe 10cm tall...) are great for storing different cuts of wood, plans, metal, etc...
 
I have a foot-switch that I plug my dremel into. The switch on the dremel is always on, but the tool only runs when I step on the switch.
 
A drying-rack made out of wire shelving suspended below a furnace duct.
 
That's all I can think of right now, but there may be more...

A few things that I have in my workshop that I like:
 
I have several switches all next to each other that are run to plugs on the workbench. One powers the mini table saw, one the drill-press, one the disk sander and the other the vacuum. I can turn on and off the vacuum and any of the other 3 tools with one hand.
 
Wire one plug above the workbench to the lightswitch, and color that plug red. Use that plug for a soldering iron or plank bender, so even if you forget to turn it off, it goes off when you leave the shop and turn off the light.
 
Have an area for painting and staining. Hang a shower curtain(s) as best you can to section off that area and have an exhaust fan sucking from that area. Keeps the fumes out of the house very well!
 
Lots of light, with one movable so you can focus it on your workspace.
 
Have a deep laundry sink for cleanup.
 
In cabinets, drawers are better than doors/shelves, and more small drawers are better than fewer large drawers. Most of the parts and tools we use are small so large drawers get cluttered fast.
 
Opposite to the previous item, thin drawers with a large footprint (think map drawers... maybe 10cm tall...) are great for storing different cuts of wood, plans, metal, etc...
 
I have a foot-switch that I plug my dremel into. The switch on the dremel is always on, but the tool only runs when I step on the switch.
 
A drying-rack made out of wire shelving suspended below a furnace duct.
 
That's all I can think of right now, but there may be more...

Minwax also sells a "pre-conditioning" product that (I think) is basically the liquid carrier in a can of stain, but without the pigment. This wets the wood and when the stain is applied it is much more even.

Minwax also sells a "pre-conditioning" product that (I think) is basically the liquid carrier in a can of stain, but without the pigment. This wets the wood and when the stain is applied it is much more even.

I have always used a thread and needle to "sew" the ratlines through the shrouds and then glue them in, even on scales as large as 1:76. Right now I am working on a 1:47 scale ship (Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde from Euromodel) and will try the clove hitch method. Not looking forward to it though!

I have always used a thread and needle to "sew" the ratlines through the shrouds and then glue them in, even on scales as large as 1:76. Right now I am working on a 1:47 scale ship (Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde from Euromodel) and will try the clove hitch method. Not looking forward to it though!

Are the rest of the masts more clearly documented? Look for an online photo of the replica from the side and measure the mizzen relative to the mainmast and then use that ratio for the model.

Are the rest of the masts more clearly documented? Look for an online photo of the replica from the side and measure the mizzen relative to the mainmast and then use that ratio for the model.

Are the rest of the masts more clearly documented? Look for an online photo of the replica from the side and measure the mizzen relative to the mainmast and then use that ratio for the model.

I have always used a thread and needle to "sew" the ratlines through the shrouds and then glue them in, even on scales as large as 1:76. Right now I am working on a 1:47 scale ship (Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde from Euromodel) and will try the clove hitch method. Not looking forward to it though!

I have always used a thread and needle to "sew" the ratlines through the shrouds and then glue them in, even on scales as large as 1:76. Right now I am working on a 1:47 scale ship (Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde from Euromodel) and will try the clove hitch method. Not looking forward to it though!

Yes, they are ropes that can be let out to help sailors climb into the boat in the water below.

Yes, they are ropes that can be let out to help sailors climb into the boat in the water below.

Yes, they are ropes that can be let out to help sailors climb into the boat in the water below.

They were for fighting fires and were not unique to clipper ships. The HMS Victory has them.

I use a needle to thread the thin line through the stay and preventer. You can adjust the tension of each segment to keep it relatively straight and avoid pulling the two stays together.

One thing I would like to see (and Chuck you already do it) is detailed pictures of what is being offered. When I am looking for cleats I see a list of 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, etc... or something similar. If there are no detailed photos or just a crude drawing or description I have no idea how good they really look or if I will be able to use them until they are delivered. Often I order anchors, belaying pins, carronades and cleats for a kit upgrade or a scratchbuild and end up with some grossly mis-shaped or out of scale.
 
Detailed pictures make the sale easy!

Oh, one more thing that I would like to see (from Syren specifically) is an option for bulk-orders of blocks. If you could offer a package of blocks to replace all of the kit blocks in the MS Rattlesnake (for example) builders could order that for the MS kit or any similar ship.
 
It is impossible to offer such a package for every kit, but a few generic 20 gun, 50 gun, 100 gun packages at 2 or 3 different scales could be doable...
 
It's amazing how easy something is to suggest when SOMEONE ELSE has to do the actual work ;-)

One thing I would like to see (and Chuck you already do it) is detailed pictures of what is being offered. When I am looking for cleats I see a list of 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, etc... or something similar. If there are no detailed photos or just a crude drawing or description I have no idea how good they really look or if I will be able to use them until they are delivered. Often I order anchors, belaying pins, carronades and cleats for a kit upgrade or a scratchbuild and end up with some grossly mis-shaped or out of scale.
 
Detailed pictures make the sale easy!

Oh, one more thing that I would like to see (from Syren specifically) is an option for bulk-orders of blocks. If you could offer a package of blocks to replace all of the kit blocks in the MS Rattlesnake (for example) builders could order that for the MS kit or any similar ship.
 
It is impossible to offer such a package for every kit, but a few generic 20 gun, 50 gun, 100 gun packages at 2 or 3 different scales could be doable...
 
It's amazing how easy something is to suggest when SOMEONE ELSE has to do the actual work ;-)

One thing I would like to see (and Chuck you already do it) is detailed pictures of what is being offered. When I am looking for cleats I see a list of 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, etc... or something similar. If there are no detailed photos or just a crude drawing or description I have no idea how good they really look or if I will be able to use them until they are delivered. Often I order anchors, belaying pins, carronades and cleats for a kit upgrade or a scratchbuild and end up with some grossly mis-shaped or out of scale.
 
Detailed pictures make the sale easy!

Oh, one more thing that I would like to see (from Syren specifically) is an option for bulk-orders of blocks. If you could offer a package of blocks to replace all of the kit blocks in the MS Rattlesnake (for example) builders could order that for the MS kit or any similar ship.
 
It is impossible to offer such a package for every kit, but a few generic 20 gun, 50 gun, 100 gun packages at 2 or 3 different scales could be doable...
 
It's amazing how easy something is to suggest when SOMEONE ELSE has to do the actual work ;-)