Jond

I could not stand the ugly outer yard lifts, so today I fixed one. well almost. I also cheated on the topsail lift by not yet inserting a chain. I am looking for some the right size and will try. In this real close up photo, the shine of the tung oil over stain is a bit much. The next two yards are coming without tung oil to compare. 123

mark Thank you for dropping in and commenting I have experimented with different thread and for most of my work use cotton and diluted white glue. The actual thread here that is typically my tie off thread is mercerized, I think that is to make it stronger. I have a weak memory of being told not to use mercerized thread because it has memory and is really tough to hold shape. That issue is the exact problem i am dealing with today. I think since they look bad and after two attempts with glue are not getting better, I should cut them off and use some other cotton. cheers

Post 19 Foremast yards part 1 Now is when I get nervous. I made up double spliced pennants for the lower lifts. I am not sure any bigger line would fit through these tiny blocks. The foot ropes don’t hang right and the memory in all the thread is so strong the lines just don’t lay right. Perhaps after on board and the lines are tied off it will be better, but I am not thrilled. This is the first time I have ever done one of these. I am sure after twelve yards I will figure it out. The fore topsail yard is trimmed out and I need to decide how to finish it. The lower yard was surely a ‘made’ yard and painted. I also need to figure out how to attach it at the mast. There is not enough wood to connect a band. I am thinking of placing a pin through the yard into the mast and then 1/16” black tape for the band on the aft side it is seems a void when done. I will complete this fore mast as I am doing, knowing that it might all come off to be redone once I get the hang of it.. Example 119 here is another closer look at my first attempt. The pennant should have been spliced around the block. The lift line might be one size larger and tan. The foot rope will get diluted glue and pulled into better shape. Even the experts I followed on other logs bemoan the difficulty with keeping them looking good. After completing this mast. I will go to the Mizzen and try again off the boat. Presumably after two masts I can do the main mast on board as planned. I will then decide how much of this one to redo. One little detail is I need to put and iron band over the lower mast head to hold the double blocks, and not use the eyes on the crosstrees that will be needed for running rigging. I will comment on the possible adding of any running rigging as I go. I think only lifts and braces at the moment. Again, this build is a repair of a model and to record the first ship in town. It is a learning curve for me. That is all I can promise. A few days later, I made a little progress fixing above. In the past few days after writing the above, then fixing a few things, I have made a few conclusions. I am not sure if it was a good night sleep or the second shot of scotch as we listened to the news about the world’s new corona virus Friday night. But I propose the following 120 I made up a brass strap to sit on top of the lower mast and reach forward to catch the two double blocks for the lower yard lifts. I learned this from the masters. My attempt at least improves the accuracy. 121 I much prefer this look as the little brass strap projects the load from the mast top and not just shear double connection coming from the crosstree eyebolts. The crosstrees simply wrap the mast and are better designed for more vertical loading. The line is still black and will need to change at some point too. One thing this picture shows me is that tying ratlines with a continuous line and then cutting the loop ends does not work at this small scale. They look rough from this angle. Also looking to the old vs the new yards, one can see I followed Mr. Crothers with the octagon section of the built-up lower yard. He shows the center 1/8 of lower yard “the sling” being octagonal. He shows the next section with three sides to aft and round forward. I chose to ignore that as being a detail out of proportions to what I can accomplish here. On the top sail yards above, I am replacing an old one and all of the upper yards are round per his book. This one is pinned in place. A chain halyard will go up to a ring in the top gallant mast below the cross tree [ I think] I am still studying how the halyard works. 122 stepping back one sees all for foremast yards under way. I have added bands, jack stays and foot ropes. I share my woe. The topsail foot ropes were soaked with diluted white glue and pin hanged like the lower lard foot ropes are now. It did not work obviously. Also, one side is stretched a bit. I suppose one drills holes below the yard and puts in two vertical black wires pretending to be pennants? I could soak them with CA and they lose all semblance of line. maybe varnish on the line to dry hard? So much to learn.

Post 18 Starting yards and things As I return to this build, I am reminded this is the first ship rig I have ever done. I started some whalers, but they are resting waiting to comeback, and no rigging was started. It is also quite challenging to do any good detail as it is 1:96. So I thought. During the period I started this build and then again resumed it last week, I have been bouncing between NRJ logs of both Young America and the Great Republic. Though different, they are both amazing and incredible detail is there. There are so many wonderful things. Then I have, as I stated earlier in the build, all the books from the famous Mr. Crothers. To make a yard one can go correctly through the 7 trims sequence as Ed Tosti teaches us. Or one can spin dowels in a drill or lathe and file or sand on a taper, add some black tape for a few bands and be done with it. Some day I would love to build a yard properly. With my all thumbs though I am thinking more about doing it on another build. What scale would make more sense for me. Also as a rebuild of an existing model I would like to reuse yards that are OK. I already threw out all the masts. Loan of the Cutty Sark Model for me to fix the bowsprit was a great opportunity to study a nice ship model. 112 here she is sitting in front of the window. I was intrigued with the afternoon back lighting and took a few photos. 113 here we see why sails can make such a difference on a model. With them in place one does not really notice the yards construction nor connections at all. 114 I zeroed in and Viola…..an acceptable compromise answer to detail. This model looks great, but what are the technical specs. First, it measures out to be 1:64 or 3/16” to 1 ft scale. Not as easy to work with at 1:48 but looks easier than what I am trying for my first ship. More importantly look at the connections of lines and blocks and things. They are simply tied off for the most part. No splices to eyebolts. The spars are clearly sanded dowels and I see no or at least little as far as ironmongery. Something to think about as I am struggling below on this my first ship. Back to work I set up my new rigging desk and laid out the parts and pieces for making the twelve-yard arms. I want to use all the original spars where I can 115 here I have drawn the proper lengths and diameters on a yellow paper, and I identified which will be which. It looks like the three lower yards plus the fore topsail yard will be new, but I can rescue the rest. 116 I gathered all my little holders to set up an assembly line to lash blocks. I get 7 at a time. 117 I copied a set up I think I saw on Great Republic build to hold yards as they get trimmed out. I also learned there of the source of dental bands for presized bands. I bought an box of them on eBay for $12. This is my biggest yard and it is the smallest band in the box, so I guess future consumption will require larger scale. 118 I set up the foremast, so in between tasks I can complete ratlines and tying on lashed blocks, as the trim out of the yards is completed. now i need to get some work done cheers

Post 17 This winter’s break Today is not another progress posting but a re opening of this log. It is three or more months since I have been able to get to this build and it was an eventful; period. Below I just want to fill in talk about what is coming. I wrestle with the purpose of this build, Highly accurate, just a saving of a cast away model or somewhere in between. We made a repair to a broken Cutty Sark bowsprit that allowed me to work on a larger scale model with a compromise on the level of detail, did a little research trying to identify where this ship was built and read a lot more about rigging yard arms. 103 In the last exchange re the size of dead eyes I had forgotten an few pictures that were in the camera. He we share what many are familiar with and that is the difficulty of rigging this small scale for the newcomers like me 104 here I am laying out six pieces of thin thread at a time and applying some CA so the ends can actually go through the little holes. I found a for sewing. lighted magnifier normally used for fine needle point and wow I can see what I am trying to do. Cutty Sark bowsprit. Yes it happens. a youngster could not resist touching the model and snap went the bowsprit. 105 the oops 106 I took these two photos so I could remember which line was port and starboard 107 ditto 108 I taped it together so I could measure for new one 109 I remade the “it’s a mast cap if on a mast” so Sprit cap??? the broken one was squared up. so I chose not to file it to be more rounded. 110 all fixed More research. As I am completing the study of the first Pinky Superb, 1816 and moving boat works to Boothbay 1826. I am trying to find out where Mr. McDougal and Sargent were working in 1853.They were both named as builders and owners. 111 here is photo of the blow up of the Boothbay Inner harbor in 1857. This view and checking all the names eliminated the thought that Aphrodite was built in the inner Harbor. We are still betting on East Boothbay. More on that to come. Cheers

Hi Ron I will bring the schooner on a cradle and ask a few more questions as usual. My next trial is stop at lowes and see if i can get a large sheet of Acrylic cut down, so I can handle it and try to make a case. All suggestions appreciated . the dimension grew on me so i need sheets about 24 3/8 to fit around the diorama.... bummer jon

Thank you Richard I am still watching you too and love your work. Love those schooners. jon

Joe Thank you for you kind words . Yes you hit on the joy of going back and combining the love of history and telling of stories with a diorama. That is niche I am falling onto. My modeling skills are improving but I have a very long way to go if i want to replicate natural wood etc. this niche allows my limited skills to blend with research and history and then focus on the local scene . The build I interrupted to do this diorama is Aphrodite, the first ship built in the harbor 1853. I am already working on more of the history there and will be back in that log by next month. The ship is a tiny scale for me at 1:96 and I still want to show things that demonstrate how the ship sailed. Here on this model I am just touching on how they built things. I plan, as I stated in the first posting, to consider a second smaller scale scene where one pinky, Superb, is a waterline model with all the rigging in place, something that is missing here. Then the second hull will be on a slip way with all the frames, so it will be showing more about building. That will extend this experience and side by side give me time to learn more about how they built back when. Thanks again for following. I have read a few books about the Erie canal that went very near to you and I understand the joy of project celebrating your local heritage too. ' cheers

Post 32 The deck is done One of the hardest things to do with a model is say I am done. That is with any stage of worse with the whole thing. I still have work to do on all the models where I have started logs and a few where I didn’t start a log. One can always go back and fix something or add something. This is especially true for those of us that are still learning. We always find something. My first example 263 In my past logs, one will see I have a horrible time soldering. It is a skill I am trying to learn years after retirement, and I do struggle. Here I finally succeeded, I think , in making a simple band to go on the forward end of the foremast to hold the boom tackle block. Well I was successful getting it on. What worries me is when I get back to Aphrodite, my “first Ship” built in Boothbay ,I need dozens of them even smaller bands for the yards. Back to my point though, do I go back and redo those that are not quite so round. One issue I have is to drill holes through them tends to crush them or worse open the seam, Anyway the joy is finding these tough tasks and figuring a way through. I just ordered dental bands on eBay to see if that works for me. 264 How much detail is enough. The write up in Chapelle’s book talked about the removable wooden chimney to starboard in the early boats and the lashed water barrel to port. So, in honor of those references I felt the barrel was needed. The cap is on the hatch ready for the chimney to Starboard. The barrel is further consideration that the family mill is very close, and all these things would be provided from the family supplies. I have stored the completed spars on the deck. I even installed the throat halyard blocks on the gaffs. I need the little flapper blocks inside the yokes…or do I? 265 here I decided to lash the rigged boom in place on a temporary post. Note the after-boom tackle and sheet blocks are lashed over the boom with tarred line through a wooden stop. The forward iron band is holding the hooked block [ as it is stored when not in use] for which there needs to be eye or staple on the rail just aft of the chain plates. I did add the privy seat and lash down the binnacle. 266 here the other spars are just lying on the deck. Considering they have not yet painted the deck furnishings I am debating if I add more stuff. 267 now below and around: I have stained some seaweed and broken it up into little pieces and started gluing it in place. I also made up four support posts with glued chocks. If or better when I get them to work, I will add more glue and sand at the bottom. I may wait until transporting to the museum store Now for the overall display I was just taught how to take a photo of something and then loop around it in photo shop. Then inverse the selection, go to Filter blur gallery and voila’ one can up the blur of the background and then say OK. One then crops and what follows for fun is a walk around the diorama for views that will later be impeded by a case and other thing as it is set within other exhibits. I only have photoshop because it comes free when one subscribes to Lightroom a great program for managing photos. I reduce all photos to thumbnails for posting here and including in text version of this log One reason I have all these numbers is so when I go to make a slide show, I can go back and get the full photo. 268 – 275 random views Cheers

Post 31 History where is the diorama I will be putting together a few display story-boards to help folks tell the story. I also need a power point to tell the more detailed story. Part of the story is to explain where the diorama is sited. All the data I have used comes directly from Barbara Rumsey’s book, Hodgdon Shipbuilding and Mills. Below I have included the first 6 rough draft slides describing the location of the 1816 build. 257 This 1772 map is a great resource. The next definitive maps are about 1857. These maps show little black dots to represent structures. There are no roads shown in 1772. There were likely trails that were improved for horse back and step by step for farm wagons. As this compound had been in the family for three generations there were most likely wagons and tracks to move grain and other products to the mill. In this first view we see Caleb Hodgdon’ s uncle Thomas, a land speculator of sorts, obtained a large holding on Jerrymiisquam island. The island was part of Edgecomb at the time, which is the north half of the Boothbay Peninsula. The land holding drawn on the map is derived from 1815 records of Hodgdon deeds. Caleb and his brother Benjamin bought land in Boothbay. Caleb still recorded his residence to be Edgecomb He would most likely have traveled by boat on the Sheepscot river. The town of Wiscasset was about 5 miles north on the river. 258 In today’s google regional map we see the island is now called Westport. We also see the largeer Damariscotta river on the east side of Boothbay. This 10-mile tidal river attracted Caleb over the following years. 259 In this cropped Google map we see the location of Building Superb on the Westport Island and the East Boothbay location of the Hodgdon mill. By 1826 he was established there and started building a legacy of ship building that is still active today. 260 here in a blow up of the 1772 map we see a small dot representing structure. It is likely the mill that had been established there for many years. 261 here I cropped the google image to cover the Hodgdon property. It is highly likely that as the family generations spread out the shore road extends to join the properties. 262 here is where I had to make a choice. The records are not clear as to the product of this mill. It was a long-established mill but quite rural. Regardless they would have had dockage for transporting grain or wood and other support for the venture of young Caleb. I selected the best and closest possible site to the mill as the site for the diorama More to come on the history side

Thank you Chris and G.L. I really am enjoying the idea of diorama and scene. not to say a model on a stand is not beautiful, I get to put more of the results of my research to work. this is my second attempt and the fun is encouraging me for more to come. I learn so much each time. It also gets folks talking about the scene. I have thank Lunenberg NS museum who showed me how much more there is to a schooner display than her lines. They have several set on undulating Acrylic ocean with active fishing, a sandy bottom and even fish to catch your eye. You come away understanding what these great schooners were doing. cheers jon

great to see you back. I totally get the shop expanding bug. I got to New Bedford for the nrj conference. great museum and wow the Kate Cory model. I loved following your build . these small boats are projects themselves. cheers jon

Post 30 The final plan for the diorama There are six more steps as I see this project. First today is to complete the plan on what needs to be done before moving to the show. Second do all those little things on the schooner to call it a wrap. Third complete the diorama seaweed attempt and other staging items. Forth decide what if any case or protection measures. Glass box or acrylic. Fifth Complete the write up for perhaps 3 of four explanation sheets of what the display is about. Sixth take the model to the museum, set it up and fix what ever happens on the way. That is in May Today is a start on step one. 249 our on-deck workman is completing the port side cat head. I need to think about the cleating of the starboard one and set the removable chimney hatch that I will set to starboard. 250 I need a bucket of paint and brush for our painter. I also want to mention the Swiss pear 1/16” by 1/16” strip that is simply covered with tung oil and follows the third strake. It looks a lot like the feature on the Essex and I think helps. Not sure if the red shirt guy remains or what to go into the wagon. The loose hemp should be replaced with nicer line and maybe a few fittings. the chain plates are still loose. 251 here the rudder is laid out with some more pieces of copper waiting to be installed. I wonder what the tools would have been like. Would there be a table to prepare each panel?? 252 I need more going on in this aft section, maybe more spars and stuff stored. 253 here I have a workman using an adze [ to be added] on the new foremast. The completed mainmast lies next to it. If I add the trim to the main mast does it help to be here or not. 254 if I set the main boom in place and maybe lash it , it helps explain the look and the transom doubling as the boom crutch, but is it realistic? The other spars laying on deck I like so I need to trim them out. 255 I have moved one of our copper men to the ladder. I think is makes much more sense. I need to figure out the propping and set it up to it is solid so it stays in place with or without the schooner in place for transport. Also, the swiss pear accent strip really helped out 256 here we are now. A new workman has joined the copper gang. The seaweed needs help. I think amateur Photoshop blurring the perimeter in the photo really helps in viewing, though even in the museum there will be distractions. What about a case. Next week we need to get through all this step if we can. Spring and diversions are coming fast. Jon

Post 29 A little progress on deck I am nearing the end and now find I need to go back a few steps. The kit provided cap rail was nice and it saved lots of time. Unfortunately, it is set up to ride only on the stanchions that under perfect study were likely tapered a bit like all other schooners. Considering the added full bulwark, and the need for pins inboard and chain plates out board, I decided to widen the cap rail. This means I will need to paint it out to. Looking over the model photos of the early schooner, i feel this is the right decision. So, as I worked on this process, I did what I could to bring along the other elements to their final detail. 240 here I am partially covering the rudder with copper. 241 here I am adding the thinner 1/32" section to the outside of the cap rail near the bow. 242 here is the whole thing getting another 1/16-inch strip. 243 Here I need to fill and sand the joint that I know otherwise would open on me. Now we need to think about the show. What to rig and what to have being worked on. Much has been planned, but there are a few more things to decide for what to show as this schooner nears completion. 244 I have gone and added the rigging to the bowsprit. The head stay is made up with a large splice, coiled and lashed. The photo is my first attempt of blurring the unwanted surroundings just for fun. 245 In this photo, we see several items. The chain plates are sticking up through the wider cap rail. The cat head is made up from maple. As in the Essex photo a monkey paw holds the line that drops down and returns over the sheave in the slot. I tied a big granny knot and added a drop of glue, sorry. This picture gave me an idea for what to show our kneeling workman doing. The windlass is all in and the head stay is lashed to the jib down-haul cleat on the freshly painted bow sprit. 246 looking forward we see the main horse set up, black tape as place holders for hardware on the binnacle and tie down rings I need to lash. I also completed all the little nails, using a hard pencil in the shellac finish. I felt it important at this large scale to show the nails and joints of the deck planking 247 here we see the foresail horse, the mast holes are up to size, the tie down rings for the hatch tarps, temporary hinges and main chain plates are now all in place. 248 I have taken the dirty sawdust and broadcast on spray adhesive over all the land area. I then glued down many, but need more, shavings as the fore mast is being made on the left. A new ladder is also on site as the scaffold is gone Next time we make decisions on what is the final show and what is the remaining work. All for now

Post 28 Complete deck work...basic furniture First off, I took the Essex plans and model photo and studied the bow area. I’ve much to do here 228 in this section we pick up the size and positioning of the Sampson post and windlass. Note the wooden chimney that was removable. I will need to make the covered hatch for that and maybe the large water barrel that goes on the other side. 229 in this elevation, we see a confusing depiction of the knight head above the rail. How long is that curve? Also, a good detail on the cat head. 230 in the plan view we again get the relationships of things. 231 in this blown up and cropped photo of the Cape Anne museum model Essex, we find an expert’s rendition of what all this bow area should look like. Note the forward companionway is a simple hatch with, I assume, a ships ladder. Note the knight heads are effectively bow bitts. My rendition has the curved top and sliding hatch that others showed and wrong knight heads. also the size of the hatch planks and their bright rings Now let’s go to my build and fix what we can to make a 1937 slim hull look like a fatter and rounded 1821 bow. 232 First, we see the lashing lines that I put on for the bowsprit are much too big. Second, we see I followed my first hunch and raised the hawse timbers to meet the knight head in a long curve. Then I had a brain cramp and did not think to bring the rail over the bowsprit 233 inserting the bow sprit, I now have shaped the internal octagon section…..much better. I need a big wooden cleat on top for the jib down haul. 234 here is the second card template…[ the shop dog ate the first one] I transferred this to 1/16 plywood to cut and trim and fit. It will be painted, so the plywood short cut should be ok 235 now for the hatch rings. I removed all the planks and milled new ones. I need two tries to get even numbers of 6 and 8 planks, and they are roughly 13 inches in scale. The Cape Anne model left them bright. I assume they were iron rings in those days. I made them up and put them on a scrap piece for blackening. I must admit that after looking for 30 minutes I simply can not find my blackening jars…lost in the move. So, I cheated here and used lamp black paint. Not great but only experts will know. I need to find that stuff ! 236 building the windlass was fun. It is basically carved out of maple, my hard wood of choice. Here one sees the crew painting the green, so I need a tiny paint bucket and brush. 237 here are the pumps. I copied the model photo as best as I could and again used maple filed to an octagon. The handles are from scrap pear, so they are strong. The binnacle is also pegged down and the two horses are in. the aft horse is interesting and will show up better in other photos. 238 here is the basic furniture on the main deck. I plan to have the tiller and other small spars on deck as they are completed and ready for future installation. So, what does this look like? 239 here we are resting on the slipway. For now, I have removed the large primitive scaffold as it was just that, too large. I need a ladder or something to get the guys on board. I also have chosen a smaller spar to be under way and set the rudder down. It will get some copper too. The bowsprit is in and I will do some rigging for next time along with the cat heads. Maybe install some or all the chain plates and have coiled lines ready. Cheers

Thank you Richard and David. I am off to our monthly guild meeting to get more advice on things like .how much should i do with the spars and how do i put a paint brush and bucket in the hands of a figure ...my next posting shows all the deck work almost complete and I am ready for preliminary rigging work. cheers

Thank you Yves I am getting into a tricky area now of making the detail parts. The clock is still ticking too, as I need to be able to display this diorama in late May, and that is really just around the corner. Any time I drop a piece on the floor, the shop dog checks it out. Today the windlass supports bit the dust. I then added the bracing for the raised stern and found the rudder no longer fits. It is talking two tries for most steps forward, but that approach is normal for me. cheers

Post 27 Mid-point on the diorama It’s time to look at what we have now and see want we want to develop and what might be better removed. I start off with what now is my favorite view. Naturally it is not one of the four views I use for study, but a low angle from a corner 219 looking in from an angle, we see seaweed coming along and all the colors of the schooner. the rudder is missing and i assume would not have been installed. I plan to have it sitting ready to go in. I would have coopered before installing gudgeons over some tar separating the copper. I never thought about it before. Since i am using tape I would hardly notice. but since only one falls into the copper as completed , I need to decide. more to come on that one. 220 here we back away and see the new supply of seaweed. I plan to experiment with a brownish wash and dab with a sponge. I want some yellow to survive as that is the fresh air-filled pods that float in the sun. the browner Spanish moss did not work, and I will use some of it to make up bushes. I wonder how to make eel grass? Also, at the moment one end of the main mast in the rough is looking at you. there is so little room i am not sure yet what to do to stage the work going on right there. Now the four side views with presumed directions/ 221 north: the wagon is delivering things that would not be floated. Who is it to say that everything may have come by boat and there was a dock nearby? Now I believe they were on a remote site on Westport Island with the slipway falling south west. I plan to go see Barbara , our town historian to see if she can help me more in this area. I believe they were about 5 miles out of town. 222 west: here is the best view of the swooping lines exaggerated with the raised stern. I have lots of bark and saw dust and stuff to make the brown area more like a work shop. 223 south: the water side view. Here I must think more of the scaffold. What is it doing and why is it there? I also need to treat the slipway that gets wet twice a day. all such structures today have treated wood, these would have been simple logs. they would we wet covered in seaweed and maybe barnacles. 224 east: to confirm this means east side looking west. the spars are the point here. what to do? I think I want some spars done and even with fittings. They must have been working in parallel. The question might be if they were built somewhere else. For now, I assume they did it all here. Also what to do at the front of the slipway? These large frames would have had an A frame or gin pole to swing the keel, frames and any other large timbers. It would likely have come down once the need was over. I plan to start building one but stop as if the large components had been removed. Now for the story. What are we going to talk about, and what are the workmen doing? 225 on deck they would be further along than we are now. I am making the windless, pumps large horse and other parts and will have most of them at least set in place. I am now not happy with the size of the hatch planks and will remove and replace them with larger planks each with its own ring to lift out. More to come on the deck 226 here we have someone painting the bottom. This approach leaves enough planking visible for the audience to see. I left some on both sides and the top rail for now 227 the adding of copper I think is fun to see. I have doubled up copper tape with its backing to have a ready supply of plates and will have then around the site and a pile near the work. I am not sure how they cut it back then, I assume with a chisel. Next week more on deck, and yes these pictures, as always, help us see imperfection in the painting that need to be addressed.

Post 26 Complete the bulwarks, paint and copper the bottom It is time to complete the bulwarks and exterior finishes. I have always planned to have some copper going on the bottom as part of the diorama. So lets get ready. 212 I took the kit provided cap rail to see if it fit. Well almost. You can see where I cut and then added in a new piece to fix the higher bow and wrap the hawse timbers. I need to come back and drill that hole too 213 here the cap rail is all on. I plan to leave this unfinished, as if it was just installed. It is time to make the pumps. I had two options in mind. One is to make a small octagon plug and clad it with eight beveled sides. The right way. Or a short cut. I took a 5/16" square p[piece and made an octagon to the outside limits. I rough drilled it out and will now file it to shape. There is one at each end. We’ll hope this works and yes, it is a short cut. 214 here we are part way through the filing to shape. I will have a smaller dowel extend below through the pad and deck, so it is solidly attached. I need to find a few more examples to see how to build the handle and plunger. Now for the bottom. I need to paint under the copper so that wherever it ends, the black paint is already there. I also chose the dark green. I went to the art supplies to get the paint. I am a paint brush person. 215 I have stayed so far with the lamp black flat paint. I read in the clipper ship books that in the 1850 they added a shine. That might mean that that before then there was less shine. I would love to learn more about what paint colors were on New England schooners. Most documents paint centers on Navy craft. 216 here is the copper tape jig altered for ½ inch tape. Unfortunately, I only have a ¼ “ponce wheel. Anyone is welcome to complain if they chose. 217 here is enough for one side. I plan to have one of the crew painting in the diorama. My thought is to assume they would have wrapped the keel first all the way down and around. 218 I just got some new yellowish lichen that looks a lot more like seaweed.....cool! Next time I plan to set up the diorama to see what the story is to be and then focus on that work alternating with completing work on deck. I also have to figure out what to have for spars. Cheers

Richard I just enjoyed reading your blog all the way through. I appreciate all the little things I learned along the way. It is wonderful when folks with your skill show us trick.......your set up for soldering such little pieces. It is so much about how does one hold things in place. After building my Bluenose at 1:24 ,where one can actually hold onto things, it is a marvel that you keep andeven expand on the detail at this small scale congrats on a great build and thank you for sharing. jon

Post 25 Diorama let’s get going There are times in life when more study is good. There are also times like now when one needs to just go for it. 205 first up we need to mill up a collection of rough-cut timber to make scaffold, ladder and maybe a gin poll. 206 let’s set the base, the slipway ties and rails. You can see toothpicks painted black to represent iron rods hammered down into the sand/gravel and marine clay mixture between ledge rock where this would have to have been sited. There is also glue and toothpicks driven rough the rails into the ties. The rail is going down into the water at the edge, so unless I change my mind and use more milled timbers I can go ahead with those cross timbers. The gray and tan paint was an experiment. The brown is the paste earth. 207 I needed more material, so we have added: · Rough milled lumber · Hemp rope in different sizes. I normally use this for bolt rope in old canvas sails but think hemp would have been the line of the time. It does not coil well, but I can use it for lashing and things. · The ½ in copper tape to try some bottom work. · Tan color lichen / moss to try to make seaweed 208 so here is the first attempt. I have used two steps in the ageing for the wagon and used most of the brown paste dirt over the plaster. The wagon is made from plywood so there is no grain to play with. Oh well 7 of the nine bottles in the ageing kit remain unopened. I have used spray adhesive and broadcasting of sand gravel over the lower zone and started to glue and place rocks. After drying I will tilt and spill loose material and go again. it takes several times to get enough material to stay in place, so we can transport this stand and not worry too much. 209 How to build an erector set. I made up the two sides of the main scaffold by lashing local cut spruce logs and pinning a cross member on the outside of the frame. I then made up the top platform to set in place. I am not sure I like this. I need the schooner there to figure it out. 210 I needed to add 1 by 2 trim boards around the bottom of the plywood to thicken and complete the base. I smoothed up the edges and painted out the edge. I am not sure I will be adding the cost of a glass box for this diorama, as it will not necessarily last that long. 211 here comes the first application of Spanish moss to replicate the seaweed. Wow I have a lot to learn here. I keep cutting it up into smaller pieces, but is won’t sit down. Maybe I wet it. The little pile of gravel is what fell of this time when I tilted. Not bad Cheers

Post 24 A little more Bulwark The bulwarks are going to be a bit tough. This phase is to get the white planks in and that was not too difficult. The stern is going to be a challenge that I will explain later. 189 here we are dry fitting the port side white 1/32 plank that I cut down to 3/16 wide. 190 after gluing the starboard side. I dry fit the top planks again from the kit and it quickly became obvious the white plank was too wide. I went to the picture of the model of the Essex and found yes, their white plank was narrower than all the others, and definitely was narrower than the top plank. 191 so off the 3/16 wide planks came, and we made up new planks at 1/8 and they look much better in proportion 192 the transition between the raised foredeck and the main bulwark looks a little forced as the 1/16th strip makes up the height. I did not want to force a 5/16-inch plank to avoid that joint as that would have been an unrealistic 15-inch-wide plank. Thinking in inches of full scale, perhaps I should have used 3/16 plus 1/8th instead. on the other hand the 1/16" strip lines up with the raised shear plank so it becomes a continuous line. the option I chose. Oh well lesson learned is more planning on the full build up next time. The next step is to figure out how to set the tombstone. I made up a gig that would clamp to the stern post and hold the tombstone in place. 193 Looking at the Essex plan I see the tombstone is parallel to the stern post with ½ “space. Also, it is a little smaller than the kit size. To correct the size, I will take it off the top after all it is together. 194 here the jig is in place 195 I am sure now as I fiddled with these dimensions and having the gig in place, that there was more trimming and spiling to these planks to sit tightly together 196 I figured out by looking again at the Essex plan and model photo what to do with the stern post. The red drop of paint shows what must be ground off. Too bad I didn’t figure that out earlier 197 here the double twist on the starboard size cause trouble and needed extra clamping. This joint fell apart more than once. I like to blame gravity. This joint fell apart several times, so I need to get it together and then clean up extra glue etc. with some filing 198 here we go with the little white plank trying to hold the recess with the lower black plank back to the tombstone 199 oops the starboard side that causes all the trouble ended up too high. I had to cut it off and figure out a shim to pull it up and re-glue it 200 I think we are getting there 201 here we are gluing the top plank that is just thicker at 3/64” than the 1/16” white plank to help with the edge. It is the kit supplied piece On deck…Now for another oops. 202 I made up the pintles for the rudders in 1/8 size just because I thought they looked better. The pin was 1/16”. I went to the Essex plan and sure enough that was way too big. So back to square one and you can see the 3/32” band about to be installed 203 the tiny pin 1/32” in the upper pintle broke the solder joint and fell out during peening the little brass pins….oops 204 taking it out caused damage to the rudder. Here is a little dutchman going back in and the new pintle was made up. Thank goodness the rudder will be painted. Cheers

Post 23 Diorama planning and materials The work on the Bulwarks continues, and I can see it will for some time. As each step requires a respite for paint or glue drying, I am now laying out and getting into the diorama. This is all experiment or trial and error so let’s see what we get. First up is to gather material. I think I have enough to begin, 184 here is where we begin. The slipway rails. I went through this zone with another layer of joint compound and set the pieces where they go. I figure this is the basic unit and everything goes around it 185 I have cleared other projects and leave the layout tabl3 for this phase of the project. 186 at this end we have three boxes. One has clean sawdust the next dirty sawdust, from cutting the woods sticks and the large box has strips of bark and cuttings from the band saw work on those sticks. The far pile of extra logs is for ??? We have of course the people, various milled limber and the thinner sticks for use in building a scaffold and ladder 187 here we find two diorama products, to jars of paste dirt and paste rock from Vallejo. The ways ready are for more top cutting and installation as well as scaffold sticks and a few practice stones 188 here we have a Vallejo would affects kit and the wagon to experiment with, the drill and tools to toothpick timbers together. We have collected the first batch of stones and some more sticks to try and make up spar blanks that look more realistic than the perfect dowels that came in the kit In the works or on order we have some diorama moss…brown and fall color lichen I believe and a need for a few more colored paints. I also need to rough mill a few planks as the wood used for a scaffold would not likely have been perfect. I also need to think if I should show some type of lifting rig , I believe the heavier items like the bowsprit, rudder and the like may have been rigged with a gin pole of sorts. That may have to wait for another smaller scale build where there is room for these things. cheers

Post 22 Get the first bulwark strake on and set up for strake 2 I guess if a plank goes full length it is a strake. I will need to come back and add a few joists after, but since they go all the way I am calling them strakes. I knew this was to be a hard part of the build. planks are to bend in more than one direction, and we want crisp colors as we go. One step forward, find we need to paint something. Paint something and find more defects…a few repetitions are in the cards, so here goes the bouncing ball. 175 here we are once bit twice warned adding the hold down clamps as we add the lower bulwark stake to the starboard side. 176 now looking at the next strake we see that the deck thickness of 1/16 needs to be accounted for. I had assumed that to be the case and planned to add a 1/16 square piece. 177 dry fitting the piece we are reminded of the difficulty in the aft section. If we keep building up, we shall exceed the height of the long knee just to the right of the clamp. I also think these strakes are sloping up too fast, and will re-glue and hold down the bottom strake before moving on. I believe looking closely at Essex that the bulwarks are on deck to the last station and then flare out. 178 here in a better view; we see the need to spile this strake all along to lover the height to half the remaining knee height. We also see across the deck that gap is a little too high. 179 The same issue took place on the foredeck and some spiling of this plank is in order. The other issue here is that the raised deck strake and shear planks need to be painted black before this white strake is added. 180 while painting the forward section it seamed foolish not to go ahead and mask off that top line and paint it out. I can see if it is indeed what I want to show, if I want to add a molding etc. also treating it like a primer I will likely need to sand it out and repaint later. 181 here is the port side painted. I do not love the dip in the line, but it is the line of the third strake. 182 here I am re-gluing to lower strakes overnight. I have added the block to train the plank to reverse their curve to meet the tombstone aft. 183 here I have painted the starboard side. I much prefer the line of the curve than port side. I can also go and fix this all up before moving to fast forward Cheers

Peter thank you for the suggestion. more though for your selected piece. I went on line to woodland scenic and was so overwhelmed. what you selected to show is very close in scale to what with a little brown color might work. Yesterday i was in the woods and along the driveway picking up rocks, and more sticks to try to cut down spars. I got caught using the admiral's colander and mixing bowl oops so now I can google moss and see where it takes me. I will let you all know before i glue it in cheers