Nirvana

Hi Chuck,
 
I've been using the machine rather intensively the past few weeks and it is dream to use.  I'm finishing up the standing rigging on Bluejacket's Smuggler and there are yards of serving on the model.  
Shortly after I bought the Servo-o-matic I came up with virtually the identical jig.  One small difference is that I used a dowel slightly larger than the inside diameter of the brass tube, chucked into a drill and created a taper.  I get a good tight friction fit and don't have to otherwise alter the machine itself.
 
Thanks for making such a useful tool,
 
John

I am often asked by folks who own my Serving machine how to use it to seize blocks or make a mouse etc.  Truthfully it was never designed to do those things but because it is a very simple tool it can be modified/augmented very easily.  In fact I have written directions to dozens of folks about how easy it is to make a jig of sorts that can be used to hold and seize blocks using the serving machine.   So I figured to save time I would also post it here. As you know it is very simple "Amish" technology to say the least.  The jig/attachment for holding and seizing blocks or even making a mouse is equally as simple.
 
I will not include these devices with the machine because they literally cost only pennies to make but will take about 20 minutes in time.  The cost isnt the issue,  its the time and folks would probably balk at having to pay me for that time when they could make these on their own for literally pennies.   So here is how it is done...or at least one method.
 
So first...to make a block fixture.....
 

 
You will need a wooden dowel that fits snug in the 1/4" tube of the serving machine.....two alligator clips or any other clips.....and some glue.  That is it, although you could get fancy and use another brass tube or rod and fancy clips.  For me it isnt about the materials used but the functionality.
 
The brass tubes that are used on the serving machine protrude just a bit from the handles as shown.  This was done on purpose because I always knew the extra meat would be used for stuff like this,  I am just surprised nobody has done so yet.
 
Drill a small hole through this tube protrusion...straight through so it goes through both sides.  You will use it to insert a pin and secure the dowel/block holder.  I actually just use a length of 22 gauge wire.   It works great.
 

 
Then take a short wood dowel and drill another small hole through the end as shown.  You can slide the pin through the tube and dowel to secure it....easy-peasy.  The dowel should be a snug fit in the tube.
 
The other end of the dowel is cut to length so after attaching say....an alligator clip....it will be close to the side and gears.  The back of the alligator clip is opened up and crimped onto the dowel....also secured with glue.

 

 
That is it.  very simple.  Its so simple in fact that its easy and more economical for you make these on your own rather than pay me to make them.  This same concept can be used to make a jig for making a mouse too!!!  Just use another brass tube rather than a dowel or rod.   I am sure that you have seen these...
 
It makes the Serv-o-matic an even more versatile , low cost and simple machine to own.  If you have other jigs and modifications that you have made to your serv-o-matic.....please share them here.  I am sure that everyone could benefit from them.
 
Chuck
 
 
 
 
 
 

Great progress!  To me, this was the most satisfying section of the build.

Ok elsewhere on this web site there is mention of feeling stupid. Now that is me. As mentioned above I carefully used the tic strip to calculate the number of planking strips and the amount of taper I would need. Note to Self: There are 4 1/32 in 1/8 not 8! So as I mentioned I was concerned that I would not be able to accurately taper just 1 1/32 from each plank so I instead tapered 1/16th from every 5th plank. When I should have tapered 1/16th from every other plank. So progress report: Port side is 1/2 done but all planks from now on will need significant tapering.
 
Also a note to the Syren club. I noted much to late that when Rich did his planking he did it before he did the counter. I would suggest every one think this over very carefully. when I get home from work tonight I will take pictures to explain. But if the counter is finished there is no where to hide the butt end of the hull planks. I believe I will need to remove 1 or 2 planks from the counter, sand the hull flush and then replace those planks.
 
Needless to say but the "assembly line" of soaked and bent planks has come to a halt for now.

Today I got off work early and the sun was shinning so what did I do? I began Planking the hull.  I had intended to finish the Treenailing first but I realized that the Treenailing was exactly the thing to keep me busy while Planks were soaking and bending. So I started an assembly line. Below is the results. 
 
Using Chuck's suggestions about measure and calculating the Taper of the planks. I discovered I needed 21 planks on each side and that at the bow they each needed to be tapered down 1/32". Now I don't know about you but my tapering is not that accurate. So I decided that since I needed to reduce the width by 20 X 1/32 I would just remove 1/2 of the width every 5th plank. Not exact but as we all know that last planking is always a strange shape anyway.
 
So I soaked 5 planks at a time in my trusty PVC pipe. and 1 of those planks was tapered first. After soaking for 30 min. they it was time for 30 min on the planking board. and the next set of planks was soaking and bending while I installed the current set. In a 2 hour period I have added 10 planks! 
 
I am really pleased with my treenailing. I have broken 4 drill bits so far. And the Port side is almost complete. the starboard is 1/2 way. Since I ran out of number 75 bits I switched to number 76. I have also resisted using the dremel. the drilling is not bad its just the number of holes. I also opted to not do as many holes as Chuck suggested. It just seemed to cluttered.

I have completed Chapter 4. I added the hance pieces and the hull sheaves. One comment on the hance pieces – two pieces 3/16 inch thick each need to be glued together to form a piece of wood 3/8 inch thick that is sanded to shape after it is glued to the hull. This requires a lot of sanding with existing bulkhead extensions and other basswood parts in close proximity, and therefore the risk of deforming existing parts of the hull. I discovered that there are TWO sets of these provided in the kit as laser cut parts. One set is in basswood, and the other is in the same plywood as the bulkheads. NOTE TO OTHER CONFEDERACY BUILDERS: Use the basswood pieces because they will be easier to shape. The plywood ones are much harder wood.
 
I also constructed the ship's wheels, using the mini-kit from Chuck Passaro' Syren Ship Model Company. I am probably around the median skill level for folks on this web site, and I was able to assemble – two of them. I think they look pretty good. Someone with more skill would likely make fancier spokes. I would encourage other builders to consider them. Chuck has his usual excellent instruction sheet pdf for them on his web site. For me, the hardest step was adding the spokes. I used my large “yarn darner” needle to pin the hub to the center of the template and then it became easier. When you look at the pictures, remember that the actual wheels are 11/16 inch rim diameter so you are seeing them greatly magnified. I stained them with Watco walnut stain and finished with wipe on poly.  The finished rim is 3/32 inch thick, which is a scale six inches so that is not too bad.  
 
 

I am very familiar with the feeling like an idiot part. This Hobby can be humbling.

fnkershner
You can also look at my pages 7 and 8 to see I used pins, clamps, rubber bands etc to curve stern planks in place.

Finish the transom like on my page 9. Then you have a target for the long planks like on page 13. To hold them while the glue dries takes some creativity. Clamps, rubber bands pins, etc

Grate is finished and installed by the companionway

Rich - If I can take you back a bit. How did you do the bending of hull planks for the stern? As you know I have a planking board for the bow. but I am trying to work out a pattern for the stern. Suggestions?

Thanks Thomas, Tom and Alan. Several models ago I was completely driven crazy trying to build gratings when I hit on using a comb. It works perfectly. Half the comb has fine the other half larger spaced.

I like the comb jig to hold your grating pieces. They look great (or should I say grate).

I just dropped by expecting to see a few update entries.  It turns out I had 4 pages to read!  You are a quick modeler, and I'm envious!
 
Alan

Hello Rich, when building the gratings keep in mind that the 'continuous bars' are pointed parallel to the length axis of the ship, the 'interrupted' ones go perpendicular to the length axis. The Syren plans are a bit misleading in this respect. Not that it makes a big difference for the final looks. But I redid all my gratings when I figured that out. Couldn't stand the thought that I had it wrong 
 
Thomas

I'm using Watco Danish Oil Golden Oak, but any golden oak will do

Rich are you using Minwax Golden Oak?

I built and installed the capstan over the hatch next to the companionway. I made it so it turns.

The evolution of a workshop, love it Helmut.
It's funny how a lot of us seem to get as much enjoyment in organising our tools as we do modelling.
 
Nick

So clean and detailed. Still amazes me!

This model is a great eye opener as to modern marine architecture. Very interesting hull shape. All in the name of efficiency I suppose. Nice work as usual Ken.
 

Hi Floyd, I did a quick check on the Carronades and I think I'm OK. I included a photo so if this triggers your mind and I'm wrong, let me know.
 
When lining up the gun port lintels I realized I must have had a brain faze fitting the gun port sills. 1/4' is a smaller number than 3/16, right...., apparently not, so I glued in both rows orientated vertically instead of horizontally.
After a few choice words and a frantic search further down the manual to see where it could cause me trouble I think I might have gotten away with it.
(In the end I might even feel smart, because I got away with a lot less sanding than what I would otherwise had to do.....lol).
Lesson learned: Concentrate & tripple check those silly imperial numbers when you are used to metric.
 

Rough finished first grate. After the diluted glue dries I will trim it to size

I'm building the first grate. My jig is a simple comb. The glue is a mixture of water and PVA. 3 or 4 to 1 mixture

So very impressive, update after update, pic after pic. WOW