Nirvana

If you go to the Royal Museums Greenwich site, there are many open boat plans showing davits and windlasses. An example:
 

The windlass and stern davit was used for various tasks, one of thich was to help work the anchors with their parent ship, helping lifting the crown so that the anchor could free itself, and the the ships capstan did the work of raising it. The windlass was used to coil the buoy rope.

I have the second in my new line up of alternative printed resin boats almost ready. This is a 24 and 26 foot launch, complete with windlass and davit.

Many innocent sheets of material died to bring you these pictures...
 
This is the fifth hull I have made up, with incremental changes with each new version. I usually just remove and replace the parts I change, but there are many interlocking parts with this one, that I felt more comfortable restarting the whole hull assembly with all updated designs, so that I know all fits as they should. This will not be the final form, however, but am comfortable continuing using the hull form (which is final) to get more information for parts that fit onto it.
 
Hull has been sanded, ready to take gunport bulwark template (which are next to design)
 
(This will be thrown away once all info has been garnered from it...)
 

Amazing attention to details.
Great job.

Amazing attention to details.
Great job.

That free Zoom presentation for NRG members with Ian McLaughlan on "The Sloop of War" last month or so was fabulous.  Worth the cost of admission right there.  
 
I know I wouldn't be nearly as far without the MSW and NRG family - you guys rock.  Member if you can or want, and just continue to post and share if you can't or don't want to.
 
Oh yeah, and like $2 off on NRG's uber-legible "Steele's Tables" was awesome as well.
 
Love this corner of the internet.

I suspect some of that 40k+ number are those that joined, stayed for awhile and just never returned.

Should I be worried now? hahaha
 

LOL... spot on Keith.
 - from a fellow junkie

Silkjc,
It's probably the other way around, to haunt you down when you haven't paid your dues.
Besides it's only visible to yourself and staff of NRG's MSW.
 
But that magazine that comes in the mail, it's worth the money. 
Great articles, history, builds and tricks.

Thanks guys….
 
Yes I have mailed a few.  It depends on the country.  Some countries wont allow first class mail or the cheapest option and only allow priority mail.   It weighs about 9 pounds give or take.
 
I just shipped one to Italy for $99 US shipping.
 
I sent others which were around $85
 
So far the most expensive was $149 but I charge $99 usually so I take the hit if its more.
 
So probably around $99
 
 

Amazing attention to details.
Great job.

Hej Klas och välkommen ombord, 
Hello Klas 

Hej Klas och välkommen ombord, 
Hello Klas 

Hej Klas och välkommen ombord, 
Hello Klas 

Amazing attention to details.
Great job.

I never had issues with that and the ones you are using, I know those, have two of those myself but with my arthitis I can´t rally twist the wrist properly to use them and my hands het shaky very quick. I have no issues to fix the part I want to drill in. If it really needs to be accurate I use the Dremel Workstation or a benchtop drill press from Makita (20 yrs old) which works fine with the matching Makita corded drill (30 yrs old) which I can adjust from 15 - 2,200 rpm. They don´t build drills like that anymore nowadays lol but it still works, changed already two times the brushes in it.
 
My problem is really the hand and wrist, doesn´t work anymire like 30 yrs ago

That's a bit of thread drift now, but for really delicate work I use a watchmakers archimedean drill that requires both hands, as it does not have a return spring. I can precisely control the pressure needed/permissible (with tiny drills). Of course, the workpiece has to be fixed (some 'cello-type' suffices often), but this is good practice anyway. Mine can clamp drills down to 0.1 mm diameter.

Yes, since we use walnut instead of beech wood, the quality of the blocks has increased, they are smoother and stand out beautifully. Regarding the color, it must be said that there is a certain variability, some walnut blocks are even lighter depending on the log. This is a tribute to nature 🙂

You can see it on this picture. While the front triple block is dark, the other blocks have a more or less lighter shade, but this is nothing that detracts from the beauty of the model.

Welcome to the site.  Looking forward to the delivery for my CSS Alabama build.  You did a great job helping me out!

I have used their CNC Sails on my Revell USS Constitution. Great products. 
 
Their Rope is of Excellent Quality as well. 

The RCSubs Photo Etch
I shelved the Eduard PE because I found it lacked some of the hull details that RCSubs provide with their PE.  One of those areas was the front grate array behind the dive plane.   I had installed the aft grates but there wasn't any PE for the front.  So let's continue this journey of fun and games with PE.
 

Instruction Sheets set up 

A couple of sheets of PE in a box for easy access.   

Installation of the forward grates that were not included in the Eduard PE.  There have been some who have cut this whole area out of the plastic.   This is not necessary.  Tape the PE in position and airbrush black.  Remove the PE and you will have rows of black vent marks.  Gently use the grout removal bit on your Dremel and cut out the rows of black vents top to bottom.  Then adhere the PE in place.  The uncut sections act as support beams and this works rather well.


The aft grates installed.  I found that the PCSubs was a bit bigger and had more detail than the Eduard.  So I replaced the Eduard grates.  Unfortunately,
this section requires that you cut most of it out before adhering the PE.


Saddle tank access panels.


The clear side will require some of the PE hatches to be trimmed depending on how you design your view ports.
 

2 sets of screens here.  One with black primer on it already ( did not cut out the area) and the round screen port that has been cut out.
 

Custom made Happy Sawfish decal.   The Captain approves.
 

Some of the PE enhancements.   I taped the inside of the tower to prevent spray into the Attack Periscope room.   I will use the same technique on the clear section cut-outs of hull.
 

Now before I'm corrected on this, yes I did install this on the wrong side intentionally.  It has been moved back into it's correct position.
 

Since the Conning Tower has been completely assembled, I will not be using the PE decking.  I'll stick with what Trumpeter provided.  I also will refrain from drilling out the main deck area.  Instead I'll sand the decking down and then install the PE deck.
 
 

Cutting the Clear Sections For Viewing & Additional Items 
Cutting out the Clear plastic.  Scary thought but actually it isn't that bad.  I used a mini circular saw on a Dremel at the lowest speed possible.  Take small bites at it.  Don't run it as if you were cutting plywood.  The tool still turns fast enough to cause melting clumps so go a little at a time and you will be ok.  I started with the aft hull cone section.   Rounded corners can be done using a Grout Removal bit (serrated type bit) with a Dremel.   Slow and steady bites or your will chunk melted styrene.    If you're unsure about tackling this, find some old model parts and give it a practice run.  

As you can see, with the clear plastic still intact, there is glare that detracts from the detail.  Simply determine what you wish to view and use a marker to draw the area to be cut out.  I would advise to cut inside the lines to allow for any corrections and sanding.  Take it easy with small bites.

Your end result will look like this when primed.


Do the same for the remainder of the hull.   Place all your modules into the port side then lay the clear side over that and trace out your viewing areas.
 

The end result
 

Time to add an additional member to the forward torpedo room.  Some heating and bending require to position him properly.  Dry fit test.


Pretty happy with the positioning now.  Time to paint him.

The result