AON
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Bruce Ray (MSON) had built the GJØA. You can email and ask him. I would have thought it was gear driven... but that is from someone that has absolutely no idea! 😉 Alan -
Good morning Bruce I am going to send you 3 PNG photos from A Ship Modelmaker's Manual by John Bowen that might have the answer. The images are too large to post. Cable Stoppers pg 41 fig 64, pg 141, fig 252 and pg 166 fig 311. Alan
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Thanks for the video... I learned something from it about loading bullets! My only thoughts were for the use of the train tackle. Yes the gun would recoil on firing so the train tackle was mostly used to retract manually. I cannot envision that one getting used and wonder if I might experience the same thing on my ship, and if so what might be the resolution to the issue. I will reflect on it for a bit more... quietly in the corner! 🤔
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Kevin. While watching your video and seeing the train tackle that could not be used as it was already hauled in as much as possible... I wonder if they would have used the port deck eye with the starboard gun and the starboard deck eye with the port gun? This would allow them to pull the gun back all the way to the eye and possibly expose the muzzle inboard for loading. I know it will be covered and hidden from view... but I am left wondering if this was the solution? Alan
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I suppose that is another reason not to rig stuff no one will see! I'm taking notes.
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I may be seeing things wrong but it seems the eyebolt in the deck is too close as the gun doesn't look like it can be haul back.
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The contest opens on the 15th of June. I imagine all information will be available, and the website will be operational then.
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Wipe On Poly.
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What an interesting use of electrical wiring heat shrink tubing! Now that is thinking outside the box.
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- Santos Dumont No. 18
- hydroplane
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I had bought my pin vises (2) and number drill bits from McMaster-Carr. I bought two pin vices because they came with a reversible chuck (larger shaft/small shaft) so I could have one set for each. That ended up being a waste of money as they are easily reversed. I bought a few bits that came in multiple quantities in envelops. The smallest of which are quite delicate and snap with the slightest side pressure (flex) if you do not choke up on them with the pin vise chuck.
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I wonder how more experienced modelers manage the task?
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Yes. I took the subassemly to my belt sander and gradually created the taper from point to point, each side.
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I drew an imaginary line from B to D and from A to the Gripe horizontally opposite D and tapered the stem to these points along these lines. It made sense to me.
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THE CABINS LOOK GREAT! I just watch a two short videos of the cori robotic knee replacement surgery... got my GDD (Google Doctor's degree!). I'm guessing it will be a quicker recovery with this procedure. Hoping all goes well and your back jogging in no time.
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Sometimes I find the small restricted area fiddles with my mind to make it more difficult than it should be. I also find carving on end grain to be difficult. I find that if I take a slightly larger piece of thin stock and rubber glue that to a base piece of wood that is clamped, then pencil mark the shape, then start carving it is somewhat easier. Then I remove it from the base and take it to the table top disk sander and sand the edges to their margin lines.... but still the first one can take three attempts! But it gets easier.
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I get to 9:51 in the above video and it kicks me back to the beginning! I can pick just ahead of that and it loads and plays... not sure what I missed, assuming not much
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How do you know?
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HMS ANSON 1781 by albert - 1/48 - 64 guns
AON replied to albert's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
There is nothing more satisfying than getting the last of those seemingly never ending frames done! BZ -
Thank you Bruce. I find the mention of those in 1790's and earlier quite interesting
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Well, that was a better idea then what I was trying to do originally. I'm too embarrassed to tell you. 🤐
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Was it the actual removal of the rubber cement or the paper template? If it was the rubber, what did you use? I use a crepe eraser to remove rubber cement residue. Thanks to David Antscherl who had taught me this. You can buy it at any tool shop that sells sand paper. It comes in a block and is used to clean the sand paper to get more life from them. I cut about a 1" slice off one end to use as my rubber cement residue eraser. Works like a charm!
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