AON
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I believe the types of shift are explained in the PDF. PM me if you indeed need more explanation. I won't be able to respond until late today as I need to get ready to go to our local monthly club meeting today.- 30 replies
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- La Nina
- Artesania Latina
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It is good practise to specify your sources if you can. Sometimes they are found on the internet with no original source give which makes it tough. Your images above are from the Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War 1650-1850 (pg 58) and are for hull planking. Planks were usually 20 to 24 feet long with one source suggesting up to 36 feet long. After 1850 deck planks were normally nailed with spikes to the beam below with a wooden plug inserted in the countersunk hole above the nail, grain oriented to blend into the deck. Prior to 1850 it could be treenails (dowels) or spikes. Here is a PDF copy of a presentation I did for our local club, Model Shipwrights of Niagara (https://mson.ca) that might be of some help to you. It is entitled Treenails but covers deck and hull planking. Treenails - Alan O'Neill - 15MAR2022.pdf
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- La Nina
- Artesania Latina
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Off to our local club meeting this afternoon (https://mson.ca). below are a couple of updates. Compared to the bow in posting #1751 above, this adjustment is looking better. I also have been notching my orlop beams for the carlings. Sttrted with beam 22 at the stern and working forward. Beam #14 is done. This time I'm removing them one at a time, notching and then gluing back permanently while double checking the placement (gap) to the adjacent beams and that the centerline marks align. I am also scoring the notch outline with an x-acto knife prior to chiselling them out so the face cut is clean and square. I won't be posting again until I have placed the stairs, some grating and deck planks.
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Could it have been galvanized pipe?
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I experience similar issues with my scroll saw so I stay outside the line and the sand up to the line with my table top disk sander and files.
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Thanks Druxey. It was easier this time. Hope to see you on Sunday at the Model Shipwrights of Niagara meeting.
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The orlop deck beams have all been preinstalled. No hump this time! Tomorrow I'll mark the centerline and the carling locations, then remove the beams and begin notching them
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Deck clamps installed... and so we begin installing the orlop deck beams again, this time with some experience under my belt.
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I've not used it but it gives it a finished "painted" look. I prefer a natural wood look and I like it when details stand out!
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- hahn
- oliver cromwell
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I managed all but the last one piece, the roundhouse port side clamp. Not enough clamps to hold it with glue. Tomorrow is another day. Now for something different... A fellow club member printed some scale 1:64 crew members for my build. Amongst them was a surprise! Two fiddlers seated cross legged. If you look closely the fellow on the right is wearing glasses and looks quite a bit like yours truly. Yup, it is me! So I can put myself in my build. He also printed a larger version at 1:25 ...and at sometime while in my care the end of the bow to the left of the violin strings snapped off. So I carefully removed the rest of it and gingerly removed the frog from between the fingers and thumb with a fine mini chisel while wearing my magnifier. Then I made a new bow from Pau Marfim, stained and varnished. Added hairs from my old drafting brush and slipped it into place. I cut one to simulate a broken hair. It looks a bit too chunky so I'll thin out the stick tomorrow. I had tried to personalise it with hair from ma tête, but it was a bit too unruly... wouldn't be tamed into place.
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I've seen them carved individually and glued to a curved stern base plate. Carving such small pieces is quite a talent... but only impossible if you don't try and try again. My figurehead took multiple attempts until I got something I could live with. BTW, I took your sketch of the stern works, scaled it down to 1:64 and held it against my Bellerophon. Almost a perfect fit! I'm certain the ever so slight mismatch is my fault.
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Slowly getting my deck clamps in after a few more health concerns (all better presently). Working on the quarter deck/waist/forecastle clamps that support the deck beams. My first photo is locating the deck height using my gun carriage assembly to get it to look correct. The height of the deck is measured using the device I made to originally mark my heights (but I marked the top of the beam instead of the bottom!). Then comes the math... using the contract to get the deck plank thickness and deck beam height and subtracting these from the height measured. That locates the height of the top of my clamp. This I double check to the plan measurements.... close enough! Now I calculate the difference to the height of the top of the lower cill of the gun port. This is the width (height) of the spacer needed. Next I made my spacer, thin flexible maple, and clamped it to the hull (red nosed clamps), locating the top edge to the top of the gun port lower cill. My deck clamp was glued and clamped (blue nosed clamps) while butted up against the spacer. You can see the other deck clamps below. I've got two more sections to install per side at this level, the last piece needs to be steamed to fit at the bow. Then is the roundhouse or poop deck clamps and then I can start putting the decks back in. Photo below... you can never have enough clamps.
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Good morning Doug. I find what you are doing extremely fascinating. Is this your first ship in a bottle? I've never done one myself, but it is an itch that might need scratching some day soon. I've acquired a copy of How To Build Historical Bottled Ships by Bill Lucas (1982) for when that time comes. So I follow to see it done. Thank you for posting this. I also enjoyed your posting the 1:8 scale model photo!
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Seems correct as you can see the light below reach up to the upper beam.
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upon reflection it seems the headroom is needed on centre below this deck, in the hold. the higher line seems like the wings (officer's quarters) hopefully someone with more experience can confirm.
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Possibly it is reversed? The lower section is on centre for more clearance passing through and the raised levels are the officers cabins? They'd step up into them. I admit it is all unexpected. I am just guessing. Waiting for someone "in the know" to enlighten us both!
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You only had to measure it three times to be confident it was correct before you started potentially butchering the whole thing. I am impressed!
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You've got steadier hands than I! I don't think I could have masked that adequately.
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I wonder how they would look after sitting around untouched for a month or more?
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I am interested in the answer too!
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That's what I was thinking... it looks quite smart and tiddley (finished) with the batten!
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A few drop planks would fill that nicely. As it will be right side up who will notice.
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- Miss Adventure
- Model Shipways
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The words that come to mind are using drop planks and stealers but I do not see a need for them yet in your photos above. Take a look at post #34 at: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/37626-hms-harpy-1796-by-blue-ensign-–-vanguard-models-164-scale/page/2/#comment-1081778 You will see some quite good examples of drop planks and stealers if you should need to use them. Have you tried steaming or soaking your plank in hot water then clamping them to dry to shape before installing permanently?
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- Miss Adventure
- Model Shipways
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Good morning Dave and welcome to MSW. As a newbie to the hobby you might consider joining a local club. If you haven't one near you on your side of the river you might consider one nearby on the other side. Check us out at: https://www.mson.ca/ We are having our February meeting this afternoon at 1:30 PM ET and they run about 2 hours.... well before the football game today. You can attend via zoom. Email us from the email address on the web page and I will send you the zoom link.
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I completed the assembly of all 28 of the gun deck 32 Pdrs. After some encouragement from one of our club (MSON) members I again attempted to dry rub the barrels to try and make the details more visible as they were lost in the flat black. You can see the results in the close up... the one that shows the dust! The raised details (reinforcing rings, powder pan, royal cypher) are not very high at near 0.01" so I found it difficult to try and apply the dry rub to only the raised parts. So I gave up on focusing on that and focused on the results which in essence mutes the flat black and shows the detail as compared to the image in post 1741 above. I added the wooden quoin handles. They are made from Pau Marfim cut and sanded down to 0.06" square strips, one end sharpened to a point and then pulled through the two largest holes on the draw plate to round them to 0.057". The end of each handle was sanded round prior to cutting them off of the strip to then glue them into the drilled hole in the quoin. Now I go back to re-installing my orlop and gun decks.
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