AON
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Worked on repairing the broken fiddle bow today. As the broken part is missing I brought up my bow stretcher from the shop. I keep it next to my sky hooks. 😁 All joking aside.... I use WeldBond to rebuild the missing part. I suspend the bow vertically downwards so I have gravity working for me. I applied a drop to the broken end and let it dry for about 20 minutes before applying another drop. It slowly grows in length 1mm at a time! Once I have it long enough, I have to let it cure (dry and harden) for 24 hours. Tomorrow I with break out the sanding board and gently file it to shape. Finally, it will get painted and after another couple days (to let the paint dry thoroughly) it will get a matt spray sealing coat.
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Well, that's enough for one day. I don't know when the tip of my bow broke off. They are quite delicate. Guess I'll lengthen it tomorrow.
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Use a extra good fine brush. A dot of paint on the tip. Spread a little on. Wet the tip of the brush and dab it on a paper towel then brush what you applied to smooth it out. Let it dry before touchups. I mounted the little fellas on a dowel using a drop from a hot glue gun and use the stick or a finger from my one hand to steady my other hand on. Don't forget magnification and good lighting.
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On August 21st this year, I had posted a couple 1:64 scale 3D figures that were made for my build. Today I decided to paint one large figure to "get the hang of it". A practice run if you will. This figure is a larger version... of me with my fiddle. I had broken the bow off so had made a new replacement (wooden bow and hair from my shop brush). The bow was removed for painting. Acrylic paints and brushes. Letting it dry for a day or two before I give it a protective spray matt sealer coating. I was going to do my plaid shirt but that is too difficult to replicate. I was also going to add a small tuft of hair on my dome but, what the heck, I'm certain I'll get there one day soon! 😉 Now having "mastered" that I feel I've learnt nothing when I put the 1:64 scale mini me next to it. I'll give him a go tomorrow.
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Need small repair done on jibboom of Le Superbe model
AON replied to Mr. Matt's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
tmj's suggested repair above is the quickest and easiest! Once you wrap it with the cling wrap you might also apply a splint to hold the assembly in place using something like toothpicks and elastic bands or string if it is still on the model with rigging. Other option is to remove the pieces, drill both broken ends and insert a metal pin and epoxy them. The metal pin gives some additional strength. Alignment on a break has always been a problem for me. Another option is to remove the pieces, cut a slot through the two broken ends and insert a biscuit (wafer of wood) and epoxy it all back together. This is a little easier to align. I read you reached out to local clubs. Does this include the Model Shipwrights of Western NY located in Rochester? I might be able to help you contact them. PM me if you'd like some help. Alan O'Neill Model Shipwrights of Niagara (MSON) -
Working on the installation of some exterior hull planking above the main wales. Two rows of "thick stuff upon the wales". First row 6-1/2" thick, second row 5-1/2 inches thick. Now working on 3 rows of 4 inch thick planking above that. One row installed. Thought it best to get this on while I can still use my 4" bar clamps through the gunports. If I attempt this after the main deck is installed I'd be in trouble. Turns out it was a lucky thing I had to tear that deck out earlier.
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Having done some for the MSON, I feel for you and the massive quantity of videos you've committed to indexing, but rest assured that everyone using them will appreciate the work. I hope you haven't committed to a deadline!
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I would think a video log is better than any memory to allow you to physically see how you did something months or years ago!
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Leon by Doug McKenzie - 1:300 - BOTTLE
AON replied to Doug McKenzie's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Good evening Doug. I thought I'd watch you, learn and possibly try something easy .... but it looks like there might not be anything easy about ships in a bottle! I might try a submerged submarine! 😃 You must have one very steady hand. Alan -
Correct.
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I could belive one side was for the Captain and the other side for supernumaries but not necessarily a door inside vs. the other outside.
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Odd... 9" versus 10"... to save weight. They would start with 10" and spend extra time cutting away 1"!?. The half span is where the strength is needed, not at the ends.... unless it had to do with wood rot.
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Interesting! Thanks.
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it seems to be attached to the backside of the ladder, behind the closed stringer at the bottom. I put an arrow on the photo to point it out.
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Silly but practical! 🤣
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I am presently installing the two strakes above the main wale, cutting my notches in the gun deck beams for the carlings, and trying to plan how much of the hull exterior I will leave exposed.... and the lights went on. Finally! About two years ago I struggled to complete the counter timbers at the stern (posting #1512 on Feb 21 2023). Something didn't make sense and I just couldn't put my finger on it. I followed the detailed instructions I'd found in a reference book but the balcony seemed quite shallow. The quarter galleries had two doors on each side at the upper level. Why would they need two doorways into the one toilet facility? I discovered that all my counter timbers above the quarterdeck elevation need to be cut off. The wall (bulkhead) is set back between the two doors making the balcony deeper (less shallow). You can see it in RED in this image below. I followed the wrong example. Sad thing is Garyshipwright had showed me the proper assembly in his posting #1422 of Oct 2022 and I couldn't see the "forest for the trees". Sorry about that! I'm going to leave it for a bit yet but it will get cropped by the time I install the quarterdeck beams I still don't see why the officers needed the separate access from the balcony to use the facility. Couldn't they just take a few extra steps? There is always something new to learn.
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Good morning Kevin. May I ask, what is the item behind the closed stringers at the elevation of the lower three treads just above the deck? Alan
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go down to post 37 at: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/1133-baggywrinkles/page/2/#comment-627511 he explains how he made them.
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image 0037 didn't load the others look fantastic! well done
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The main wale jig-saw pieces are installed on the stbd side. I've one piece to add to the port side and then some sanding. I think I've done an acceptable job of it for my very first ever (and likely last) time. I found it very difficult, in fact impossible, to make the one side perfectly identical to the other. Human error. The saving grace is you cannot look at both sides at the same time... except from the bow and stern, in which case they seem to match fairly well. I did receive one personal message regarding the my bow: "The sheer should flatten out under the hawse holes as it heads to the bow rabbet." I've looked into it quickly and found my measurements and layout for the underside of the main wale is correct. The width (up/down) expanded a wee bit in cutting out and shaping, and the top side was initially wet and pinched when clamped. The top sides on port and starboard match. I need to go into it in more depth after I get the stern completed. Some adjustments are in order. I am certain there is accumulative error involved in the top side of the wales and the underside of the hawse holes. Some slight of hand may be in order.
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my newer old one is ALPHA Precision (Germany) the older old one is TESCO (Technical Supply Co., Montreal).
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