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Everything posted by AON
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It takes some practice but it is somewhat like tensioning a stringed instrument... you pluck it. see here: https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+tension+a+scroll+saw+blade&oq=how+to+tension+a+scroll+saw+blade&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyCQgAEEUYORiABDIICAEQABgWGB4yCAgCEAAYFhgeMggIAxAAGBYYHjIICAQQABgWGB4yCAgFEAAYFhgeMggIBhAAGBYYHjIICAcQABgWGB4yCAgIEAAYFhgeMggICRAAGBYYHtIBCjIwOTU0ajBqMTWoAgiwAgE&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:0917ef03,vid:gW-tO2Jx4Gc,st:50
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2D Drawing in Fusion?
AON replied to Duck's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
I use Fusion 360 - free hobbyist version to create my 3D models and it can generate 2D drawings from the 3D model. You need to make a few choices like sheet size, scale, views and then you can add dimensions and save the sheet as a PDF and print it out (letter size 8.5" x 11") or have large sheets printed out at a commercial print shop. -
I see you've soaked it... how hot was the water (boiling?) Have you tried steam... 5 to 10 minutes is normally adequate for us. I use an old rice steamer to steam my wood... limits the length. I've also place some pieces directly in the boiling water of the steamer. I've read exotic and soft woods do not bend well, and that kiln dried wood cannot be steam bent as the ligin in the wood has been permanently set. Air dried wood below 10% moisture has limited bending capabilities when steamed for the same reason. Should allow a shallow curve which is normally plenty for us!
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This one is a mish-mash. On both sides the breech rope is well to the outside eyebolts where as the gun tackle is in on the right side and out on the left side. Also they eyebolt location of the breech rope and guntackle are switch as other sources suggest the breech rope secures to the lower eyebolts. Two securing eyebolts above the gun port.
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Below is an image reference to various methods of securing the guns. In all images only two eye bolts are shown to either side of the gun port, not three. Interestingly, both are quite high, adjacent to the actual gun port, none lower than the lower cill which some other references would suggest. In image "c" there is a single eyebolt above the port... but in the earlier photo I can see two eyebolts. It is all very confusing.
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I was told to laminate tight bends with multiple thin strips. Make the pieces wider because they will wander. Steam and bend them as an assembly without glue. Allow for spring back. When dry, glue them together and clamp. When cured, sand the edges to proper width then assemble on the model.
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I offer the two images below showing the end face of the steps were square to the bracket and not to the centerline of the carriage assembly. On the Victory photo, the end face of the step would not be seen if it was square to the centerline, so it must be square to the bracket face. the carriage construction photo... square to the bracket face. I suspect the carriage drawings were simply easier to complete square to the centerline with a tee square... but easier to cut square to the bracket face. They would have enough of a necessary challenge cutting the cannon pivot trunnion and the axle pockets square to the centerline so why make things more difficult then they need be. ?????
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I am reading in Those Vulgar Tubes ( by Joe J. Simmons III) that when two or three levels were involved the seats were offset and by the late 1700's they had a flushing mechanism utilizing a water tub located on top of the quarter gallery. They do not describe or show how the soil tubes were run or located. Goodwin's Sailing Man of War, pg 199 has a photograph of the Foudroyant port quarter under gallery restoration and you can see the "flushing pipe" and "cistern" but doesn't seem to discuss it at all in the text on pgs 199-203.
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