AON
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Everything posted by AON
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Thank you for asking and making me look again. I have a folder of pics taken by a friend and darned if it wasn't much clearer! There are extra bolts. I didn't see these in the video.
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I wonder if 3 and 4 are actually the adjacent gun eye bolts being used to train the gun? I do not see extra eyebolts on the Victory
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I can see your confusion as I too have gun rigging sketch references that show two different things. I always try to find a believable source. Looking at videos of HMS Victory that can be found on line I see the ring bolts are one over the other in areas 1 and 2 of your marked up sketch.
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I was told to laminate tight bends with multiple thin strips. Make the pieces wider because they will wander. Steam and bend them as an assembly without glue. Allow for spring back. When dry, glue them together and clamp. When cured, sand the edges to proper width then assemble on the model.
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Glen Unless my eyes decieve me, your 22130 gun carriage plan pdf is odd. The top sheet, top left corner, top view of the carriage. The top bracket has steps square to the centerline and the bottom bracket has steps square to the bracket. I wonder why they depicted them both ways. Alan
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I offer the two images below showing the end face of the steps were square to the bracket and not to the centerline of the carriage assembly. On the Victory photo, the end face of the step would not be seen if it was square to the centerline, so it must be square to the bracket face. the carriage construction photo... square to the bracket face. I suspect the carriage drawings were simply easier to complete square to the centerline with a tee square... but easier to cut square to the bracket face. They would have enough of a necessary challenge cutting the cannon pivot trunnion and the axle pockets square to the centerline so why make things more difficult then they need be. ?????
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hopefully these help
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In my mind there was one communal discharge point and multiple levels plumbed into each other. I also think the hinged seat was to allow scubbing the bowl clean by the Stewart of the gallery (I made up the title).
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I am reading in Those Vulgar Tubes ( by Joe J. Simmons III) that when two or three levels were involved the seats were offset and by the late 1700's they had a flushing mechanism utilizing a water tub located on top of the quarter gallery. They do not describe or show how the soil tubes were run or located. Goodwin's Sailing Man of War, pg 199 has a photograph of the Foudroyant port quarter under gallery restoration and you can see the "flushing pipe" and "cistern" but doesn't seem to discuss it at all in the text on pgs 199-203.
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The model is getting more difficult! Below is a pic of the soil pipe discharge from the quarter gallery that David Antscherl included in his model of the HMS Comet I note it is a direct run and not to the dangling ornament. How was it plumbed for a two or three decker? I'll keep looking.
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Darn auto correct on my phone. Not incline .... in line. Apparently age has tripped me up again. I am wrong. They are inline. Apologies
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I thought they weren't. Also, I believe the fore and aft trucks (wheels) should not be inclined. The fore trucks are inboard.
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Excellant work! I believe the officers seats of ease had a discharge tube connection running down to the pointy ornate bit on the underside of the quarter gallery Dumping directly into the water. I remember reading about gawkers getting too close to the Bellerophon When Napoleon was held onboard and getting a surprise.
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I would prefer to learn from someone else's mistakes except I just don't seem to remember them as well as those I make myself. Since I told one person (and the cat is out of the bag), I have gotten past my damaged pride and so can tell everyone. I got to a point where I could actually put a gun on the gun beam and see it poke through the gun port. The problem was it didn't. The deck was too high. (note the past tense) I double checked my scale on the 3D gun models and compared to the 3D printed guns. Perfect. I double checked the dimensions of the model to the reference material dimensions. Perfect. I checked the height of the deck.... and there it was. I had measured from the underside of the keel to the top of the deck beam, not the underside. This made my clamp location too high, hence the deck being too high. I tore out the gun deck, and since lowering the gun deck makes the gap to the orlop deck too small... I tore it out also. Sanded everything yesterday and recalculated and proved the new deck height today. Orlop and gun deck clamps going back in today, then I get a "do over". Up side: I guess I am not a novice in this area of the build anymore so my results should be more pleasing to the eye. Now I am away until after my "new" anchor cable riding bitts are installed.
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Some bad news. I will not be posting for some time. Something happened and I would not like to talk about it at this time. I will be back (just like a bad penny), but it will be quite some time. Sorry folks.
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Anchor riding bitts and small scuttles are done. Now I must decide : do I go forward and work on the hawse hole inboard side, or do I continue aft and work on the stairway to the orlop deck?
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Made the two scuttle coamings. Used walnut for contrast as I wanted them to stand out amongst all the other wooden pieces. Went square shaped at an unconventional 27" because the size looks good and I shifted my ledger beam over about half a thickness. Forward one installed.
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Swan class 3D model in progress
AON replied to dvm27's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Excellent! BZ- 141 replies
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Prior to completing the installation of the aft of the two forward gun deck anchor riding bitt standards (knees), I need to install the carlings and ledges. Prior to doing that, I need to determine the size of the two small scuttles so I will have adequate open area to accommodate them. I found an excellent photo (cropped and posted below) on page 67 in the book: The Construction and Fitting of the Sailing Man of War by Peter Goodwin. It shows the gun deck construction details on a model of the 74 gun ship HMS Egmont. Page 208 states scuttles were just large enough for a man to pass through at either 24 inches square or 24 inches x 30 inches, and they were provided with solid covers. The NMM plan J2930 (Elephant Lines) shows their length fore and aft to be about 27”. The scuttle framing or coaming rises above the deck some 7 inches and they are about 5 inches thick. The lip measures about 2 inches wide x 2 inches high. According the Anatomy of the Ship: The 74-gun ship Bellona by Brian Lavery the forward scuttle is to the gunner’s store room and the aft to the powder room. Peter Goodwin’s photo of the Egmont shows the forward scuttle shifted to port whereas the aft one is centred. The NMM Elephant deck plan J2938 shows exactly the opposite, plus the scuttles are depicted as 30 inches square. So I guess... it is “dealer’s choice”?
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Swan class 3D model in progress
AON replied to dvm27's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Sorry, but I've discovered it is the the small things that impress the most. You get 90% of your audience with the magnificent looking sail. The another 9% with the two holes... we were told about them! There is still that 1% out there... those real sailors that see everything. 👀 I'd be impressed to see those holes with the rope grommet sewn around them 😏... a challenge for you!- 141 replies
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Swan class 3D model in progress
AON replied to dvm27's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
I think the drainage holes are missing.- 141 replies
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Installed the riding bits (glued in place) with the cross piece eyes and hooks on both sides of the bitt pins, and the standards on the forward riding bitts. I need to install the carlings and ledge beams before I can put the forward riding bitt standards in place. Then I came make the two small ventilation scuttles.
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Made my riding bitt eyes, hooks and bolts. The photo below shows the size. The eye and hook is made from black anodized jewellery wire. I had some tiny nails that I thought I'd just snip the length shorter but then realized I had another bag of black anodized jewellery wire that had a flattened head on one end... so I tossed out the nails. You can see the new "nails" in the second picture. The eyes go in the cross pieces. The hooks are nailed to the bitt pieces. I have all the eyes installed. I also made my standards for the riding bitts. They are two pieces rubber cemented together to cut and shape identical pairs. They've been fitted and all edges softened (sanded) and are ready to install. Below is after shaping on the oscillating drum sander.
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Bitts dry fitted to gun deck beams and cross pieces glued to bitts. Presently working on the cross bitt hooks and the standard knees.
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