AON
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I found the first one in Seamanship in the Age of Sail pg 283 below are images from pgs 284 and 285
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Could you provide the sources for each figure please. I've only seen the one on top, not the one below. I haven't any expert knowledge with this subject and so, am interested in the responses
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As important, could someone explain how the anchor could be raised (man handled) in such a short distance between the hawse pipes and the forward grating when the capstan is way back aft? Seriously, I'd like to know. I don't understand.
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- Harpy
- Vanguard Models
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Looking at the location of the capstan in image 1588a I tend to agree with you as to where the anchor cable ran utilizing a vyol (viol) and nippers. The cable would be coiled below in a heaping stack, one to the port side and one to starboard (or larboard) and it involved a major portion of the crew over a good portion of the day to accomplish the feat.
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I simplified my description some... left out steps. I mark them insitu, remove them, score the pencil marks on the fore/aft face, chisel with the grain from port to starboard then pass the file to ensure flatness. My carlings and ledges are cut square to length then with my bench sander support tilted at an appropriate angle, I sand the ends to fit the notches. I had tried cutting them on the model as I believe David Antcherl and a number of others do and it was a disaster. I tried cutting them off the model, on the bench, and they split on me a number of times, so I gave up! How I do it has extra steps but it works for me. You do you!
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- hahn
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I experienced the same cracking and splitting trying to notch for carlings. Ended up scoring and sanding a chamfer instead of a notch. I see people do it but they are obviously much more talented then me.
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I don't understand why it applied so unevenly.
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- Miss Adventure
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Bruce, There is a fellow in our MSON club that 3D models and resin prints figures. He made one of me playing my fiddle sitting crosslegged for placement on my orlop deck (deep in the ship for anyone that tries to see tha far). I can ask him if he has anything suitable and have him contact you if you wish. Alan
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Brig Eagle 1814 by bdgiantman2 - 1/48
AON replied to bdgiantman2's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
I think salt water ocean shallow and fresh water lake shallow might be two different things. Also, isnt gravity involved when cannon shots fly.... they drop. Not all shots were balls. Sometimes they might even be two balls if close enough. Chains and grenade style balls were also used. But more importantly, shots to the rigging and mast do damage to the gun deck (weather deck of the Niagara) when it all collapses. There would be quite the mess for the cleanup crew. 😉 -
Bruce Ray (MSON) had built the GJØA. You can email and ask him. I would have thought it was gear driven... but that is from someone that has absolutely no idea! 😉 Alan
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Good morning Bruce I am going to send you 3 PNG photos from A Ship Modelmaker's Manual by John Bowen that might have the answer. The images are too large to post. Cable Stoppers pg 41 fig 64, pg 141, fig 252 and pg 166 fig 311. Alan
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Thanks for the video... I learned something from it about loading bullets! My only thoughts were for the use of the train tackle. Yes the gun would recoil on firing so the train tackle was mostly used to retract manually. I cannot envision that one getting used and wonder if I might experience the same thing on my ship, and if so what might be the resolution to the issue. I will reflect on it for a bit more... quietly in the corner! 🤔
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Kevin. While watching your video and seeing the train tackle that could not be used as it was already hauled in as much as possible... I wonder if they would have used the port deck eye with the starboard gun and the starboard deck eye with the port gun? This would allow them to pull the gun back all the way to the eye and possibly expose the muzzle inboard for loading. I know it will be covered and hidden from view... but I am left wondering if this was the solution? Alan
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I suppose that is another reason not to rig stuff no one will see! I'm taking notes.
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I may be seeing things wrong but it seems the eyebolt in the deck is too close as the gun doesn't look like it can be haul back.
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The contest opens on the 15th of June. I imagine all information will be available, and the website will be operational then.
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Wipe On Poly.
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What an interesting use of electrical wiring heat shrink tubing! Now that is thinking outside the box.
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- Santos Dumont No. 18
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I had bought my pin vises (2) and number drill bits from McMaster-Carr. I bought two pin vices because they came with a reversible chuck (larger shaft/small shaft) so I could have one set for each. That ended up being a waste of money as they are easily reversed. I bought a few bits that came in multiple quantities in envelops. The smallest of which are quite delicate and snap with the slightest side pressure (flex) if you do not choke up on them with the pin vise chuck.
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I wonder how more experienced modelers manage the task?
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