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AON
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AON got a reaction from Don9of11 in Draftsight Question
I have the free download version at home and I am convinced if you want it to function properly you need to purchase the full version.
It also seems to crap out at the most inconvenient times.
Text will work per my settings when it wants to.
Dimensions likewise.
But it is free and I am only getting older .... I find myself slowing down so doing things twice all of a sudden seems to be the new natural thing to do
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AON got a reaction from WackoWolf in what is the ideal modelling table?
I like what you've done and have been eye balling the underside of my table in the 3D model for storage shelves (as you have done) or drawers.
Your photos help me visualize the options
Thank you!
Once I get the feel for this table on casters I may add casters to the legs of my old reference table that I use for everything in my workroom because it can be a pain moving it out of the way when it is loaded down.
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AON got a reaction from HIPEXEC in what is the ideal modelling table?
I like what you've done and have been eye balling the underside of my table in the 3D model for storage shelves (as you have done) or drawers.
Your photos help me visualize the options
Thank you!
Once I get the feel for this table on casters I may add casters to the legs of my old reference table that I use for everything in my workroom because it can be a pain moving it out of the way when it is loaded down.
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AON reacted to HIPEXEC in what is the ideal modelling table?
I'm almost finished with remodeling my work area. I expanded the work top by three feet. I added overhead lights and electrical plug by my bench. I took over a large closet for my quartermaster storage area. (I kicked out my grandkids stuff to another room). I bought a light retractable vacuum to make for easy cleanups and I will add a pull-out swivel since I am constantly rotating my model and I'm afraid one day I'll drop it. I made a work holding stand the let's me angle it in , upright or away from me. My wife put in a new very dark hardwood floor...and guess what? I have no trouble finding the tinyest part when I drop it.
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AON got a reaction from WackoWolf in what is the ideal modelling table?
I splurged and purchased a second Up/Down control button and splitter cable for the lift
I will mount it on the opposite side of the table to the first button so that way if I am comfortably seated and find I need to make a table height adjustment I do not have to get up off my lazy butt and walk around to the other side to do it.
In 1990 I had a tumour removed from my neck and spinal column that required the fusing of the lower vertebrae in my neck.
I believe that this electric-hydraulic lift device and the manual pivot mechanism will be well used by me and make my time spent at the table more enjoyable.
I laid out one set of table legs and one long top frame piece this morning.
I will need to make these cuts before I mark the others (using these as templates).
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AON got a reaction from WackoWolf in what is the ideal modelling table?
Drilled the holes for pinning the table at various pivoted angle from horizontal to 60° in 5° increments
I should mention that before drilling it is important to square the press bed to the drill bit to ensure straight holes are made
Sanded the edge to finished shape using a belt sander And that is as far as I got this weekend I will try laying out the legs and frames this week to cut this coming weekend. With luck I might start some assembly.
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AON reacted to JerseyCity Frankie in Spanish flag flown at the Battle of Trafalgar
http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/02488/flag_2488242b.jpg
I wish I could tell you more about this image. Its said to be a flag flown at tTrafalgar from the San Ildefonso. Further its said to have been flown over St Paul's Cathedral during Admiral Nelson's funeral.
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AON got a reaction from Mike Y in what is the ideal modelling table?
Drilled the holes for pinning the table at various pivoted angle from horizontal to 60° in 5° increments
I should mention that before drilling it is important to square the press bed to the drill bit to ensure straight holes are made
Sanded the edge to finished shape using a belt sander And that is as far as I got this weekend I will try laying out the legs and frames this week to cut this coming weekend. With luck I might start some assembly.
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AON reacted to RMC in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
Getting the supports for the gratings both square and level proved tricky. For the first, I finally used 2 pieces of sqare stock clamped to the prow to provide the square, then leveled it by eye against the bottom of the doorway. Once the first was correctly positioned and glued, the positioning of the middle and forward supports was fairly easy.
I used PVA wood glue which allows adjustment before setting. A medical hypodermic syringe (point ground off) is really useful for positioning small amounts of glue accurately. The glue also lasts indefinitely.
However, bringing the last grating flush with the end of forward support (ie: +2mm forward) has brought an unforseen consequence. Without adjustment to the forward support, the angle of the forward grating is at too severe an angle to allow the top head rail to be flush with the top of that grating. It was therefore necessary to file down the top of the support by about 1mm to provide the appropriate angle.
Once the glue has fully set further adjustment - and another coat of paint - may be necessary.
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AON reacted to Trussben in HMS Pegasus 1776 by Trussben - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop based on TFFM
Well just arrived home from working away, threw my bags through the door and went strait down to the workshop to look at the issues with some of my aft cant frames, Druxey hit the bullseye and my port frames 2&3 are sitting high compared to the starboard side ones!
Starboard frames do not show any problems and the height of breadths are dead on, the first pic shows the astern view of the starboard side from below, the second shows the problem port side internally and shows the frames sitting high compared to other frames.
So this weekend I will break out the isopropanol and move the frames down as suggested by Druxey.
It's great to get sage advice that saves your *** on this site, Druxey - I owe you the adult libation of your choice if we ever meet.
Ben
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AON reacted to Don9of11 in Making sense of Zebra View in SolidWorks
Here is an example of a Bounty class launch that has a perfectly shaped elliptical hull. In the real world you would never see this, at least I don't think you would. I would think you would see symmetry on the view of the bottom hull but that must depend on the position of the cube and the mirrored surface of the boat. The lines do flow all together so this hull is smooth.
I think this could be a good visual tool to easily see bad spots in a hull but ultimately its going to be the traditional measurement of waterlines, buttock lines, etc. that determine the fairness of the hull.
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AON got a reaction from jud in Making sense of Zebra View in SolidWorks
Zebra View is a mirror reflection of lines on your shape ... your shape is the mirror
as the shape changes the reflection of the lines adjust
it highlights changes in shape, mates and alignment
I am still having trouble wrapping my head around what it is telling me.
a perfectly fluid shape would, I believe, have long lines reflected... their direction might change but not sharply and they would change as a group
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AON reacted to trippwj in Question on waterline placement
Hi, Sal - good question! I have also posted a response to your build log.
In this case, it appears that the ship sat lower at the stern than the bow - not at all uncommon for these types. Increased speed, supposedly, as well as providing the rudder more bite and increased stability.
The launch ways are angled to allow the ship to slide into the water - think of them in relation to the ground and the keel is parallel to the ways. 2.5 to 3.5 degrees was very common for launching ways - about the ideal slant to let the vessel slide in a controlled manner into the water, but not so much that she would start to move before the blocks were removed.
The waterline is in reference to the way the ship will set in the water and will not match the slant of the ways. In the water, the stern would be lower, hence that 4.5 degree angle as opposed to the ways. They are really two totally different and unrelated sets of angles.
the masts also showed different amounts of "rake" - in general, the fore mast had slightly less rake or angle than the aft (main) mast. This was very common across nearly all ship types.
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AON got a reaction from alde in Draftsight Question
I have the free download version at home and I am convinced if you want it to function properly you need to purchase the full version.
It also seems to crap out at the most inconvenient times.
Text will work per my settings when it wants to.
Dimensions likewise.
But it is free and I am only getting older .... I find myself slowing down so doing things twice all of a sudden seems to be the new natural thing to do
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AON got a reaction from jud in what is the ideal modelling table?
Hoping to start building my table this weekend.
I acquired a 30” x 8 foot sheet of ¾” plywood and am now wondering if I should leave the table top at 30” or rip it down to the 24” wide I had originally planned to do.
I also have all the other lumber I could possibly require stock piled.
Picked up two lengths of ¾” Tee-rail for the table top as I’ve seen used on the forum.
Below are a few photos to christen the beginning of the build.
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AON got a reaction from NenadM in Small lockable tool chest
My daughter wouldn't give any of it a second glance.
I explained to my son that "all this" is his inheritance so it all needs to be treated as such
So he started taking them home!
He calls it borrowing
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AON reacted to druxey in HMS Pegasus 1776 by Trussben - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop based on TFFM
Thanks for taking my comments in the spirit that they were intended, Ben! That astern photo seems to indicate that they are sitting high.
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AON reacted to Trussben in HMS Pegasus 1776 by Trussben - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop based on TFFM
Here are some pics of aft cant frames 8 thru 10 installed.
Making up the last 3 frames now.
Ben
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AON reacted to druxey in Deck beam Scarphs?
I imagine at this time period 30' 0" lengths of timber were easily available, which is more than 8 meters. I suppose, depending on the geographic location of the shipyard, if only shorter lengths were available they would have scarphed them together. You are the master shipwright: you decide!
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AON got a reaction from Elmer Cornish in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
Ben: Apparently we are the lucky ones as there aren't enough mentors to match all the various requests!
Druxey: Below is the section of the build contract. If I'm reading it correctly the Billy Ruffian once again breaks the mold as the dimension seems to be 5-1/2"
Alan
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AON got a reaction from daHeld73 in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
Siding the Individual Frames (Images 14 thru 19)
Having hid all but the one frame at dead flat I could work on it to chisel away to it’s sided dimensions.
The frame sided dimensions differ from Floor Timber (16”) to 2nd Futtock (13-1/2”) to 4th Futtock (13”)
To create the sided dimension for the 2nd Futtock I inserted a plane against the face of the floor timber and using reference lines sketched in a box to remove 16” – 13-1/2” = 2-1/2” from the frame. I mirrored the box and completed the extrude cut.
I repeated this for the 4th Futtock sided dimension which was a removal of a mere ½”.
I then sketched in the outline of the Chock at the head of the Floor Timber and the Scarf Joint at the head of the 2nd Futtock.
I offset the chock and scarf joint lines a distance of 0.01” (1/8” at full scale) and extrude cut through the timber to reveal the joint.
I picked 0.01” arbitrarily as it was something I didn’t have to zoom in too closely to see.
I am not certain the chock would have been stepped to match the frame as I’ve done.
These steps would be used to create the sided dimensions of the adjacent frame and reveal the Cross Chock at the floor and the Scarf Joints.
If anyone has a cleaner method of accomplishing what Ive just posted please let me know!
That's all for now.
I have to get back to fairing my hull yet again!
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AON got a reaction from popash42 in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
Siding the Individual Frames (Images 14 thru 19)
Having hid all but the one frame at dead flat I could work on it to chisel away to it’s sided dimensions.
The frame sided dimensions differ from Floor Timber (16”) to 2nd Futtock (13-1/2”) to 4th Futtock (13”)
To create the sided dimension for the 2nd Futtock I inserted a plane against the face of the floor timber and using reference lines sketched in a box to remove 16” – 13-1/2” = 2-1/2” from the frame. I mirrored the box and completed the extrude cut.
I repeated this for the 4th Futtock sided dimension which was a removal of a mere ½”.
I then sketched in the outline of the Chock at the head of the Floor Timber and the Scarf Joint at the head of the 2nd Futtock.
I offset the chock and scarf joint lines a distance of 0.01” (1/8” at full scale) and extrude cut through the timber to reveal the joint.
I picked 0.01” arbitrarily as it was something I didn’t have to zoom in too closely to see.
I am not certain the chock would have been stepped to match the frame as I’ve done.
These steps would be used to create the sided dimensions of the adjacent frame and reveal the Cross Chock at the floor and the Scarf Joints.
If anyone has a cleaner method of accomplishing what Ive just posted please let me know!
That's all for now.
I have to get back to fairing my hull yet again!
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AON got a reaction from fatih79 in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
Siding the Individual Frames (Images 14 thru 19)
Having hid all but the one frame at dead flat I could work on it to chisel away to it’s sided dimensions.
The frame sided dimensions differ from Floor Timber (16”) to 2nd Futtock (13-1/2”) to 4th Futtock (13”)
To create the sided dimension for the 2nd Futtock I inserted a plane against the face of the floor timber and using reference lines sketched in a box to remove 16” – 13-1/2” = 2-1/2” from the frame. I mirrored the box and completed the extrude cut.
I repeated this for the 4th Futtock sided dimension which was a removal of a mere ½”.
I then sketched in the outline of the Chock at the head of the Floor Timber and the Scarf Joint at the head of the 2nd Futtock.
I offset the chock and scarf joint lines a distance of 0.01” (1/8” at full scale) and extrude cut through the timber to reveal the joint.
I picked 0.01” arbitrarily as it was something I didn’t have to zoom in too closely to see.
I am not certain the chock would have been stepped to match the frame as I’ve done.
These steps would be used to create the sided dimensions of the adjacent frame and reveal the Cross Chock at the floor and the Scarf Joints.
If anyone has a cleaner method of accomplishing what Ive just posted please let me know!
That's all for now.
I have to get back to fairing my hull yet again!
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AON got a reaction from daHeld73 in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
My method of cutting out Frames in the 3D Hull (Images 4 thru 13)
First turned off the keel by rolling up to hide it.
I drew a single rectangle (taller than wide) to represent the SPACE between frames and located it to one side of dead flat.
Room and Space is 32-1/2” and the sided dimension of the floor timber is 16” so the space is ½”
I made the rectangle ½” wide
I then copied the rectangle using the Linear Pattern feature at 8" intervals
I extrude cut through the hull in one step to reveal individual frames.
Then to my amazement I noticed each frame was saved individually as Cut Extrude 1 thru 15.
I could pick frames and hide them.
So I hid all but the frame at dead flat.
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AON reacted to SGraham in Band Saw Question... or two
Mark, +1 on what Duff says. You can pick up an older 14" USA made band saw for not much money. Check out the older Deltas, Walker Turners, Atlas, etc. I have a late '40s Delta 14" that I use to size stock. I don't know how I would do without it. There is a website called VintageMachinery.org (owwm.com) that offers all kinds of support for folks who want to get an older machine and tune it up. They really are so much better than the new underpowered plastic/sheet metal things you can buy at the big box stores. With ebony or boxwood stock of the dimensions you mention, I'd resaw it on the band saw to thin enough pieces and then do the fine cutting of the planks on my small table saw.
Steve
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