US Brig Niagara by xken - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1/64

[scott larkins]

Up on that mast piece, can I ask why you didn't just put an eye bolt in the wood instead.  Not that I'm not impressed with our work, I truly am. I'm just asking for the time I get to that point in my build.  The bow sprit came out really nice.  I bow at your work.

Edited June 5, 2015 by scott larkins

[xken]

George, here is a link to the publisher http://www.schifferbooks.com/model-building-with-brass-4764.htmlor you can also try Amazon.

 

Scott, this is my first ship build so I am trying to follow the plans as described in every detail not only to produce a good model but also to learn about ship building. My past experiences have been WWI aircraft, horse drawn vehicles, a MASH helicopter, and a functional 1/8 scale Model T board track racer. I am a firm believer that God is in the details and that model building is a form of entertainment that should be enjoyed. 

 

I have also been told by many that I am crazy for the level of detail I put in my models; but that is just the way I build them regardless of the subject.

 

Ken

[GLakie]

Thanks for the link Ken!   I'm with you. The beauty's in the details. Especially on a ship like this. A lot of kits even point out that it's good to scratch-build the iron-work for authenticity in the finished product. 

[Jack12477]

George, the book is also available thru Barnes & Noble. Found it on their website yesterday.

[xken]

Scott,

I forgot to mention in the post above that I normally research my subjects and scratch build them using as much as possible the same materials as the subject. Here are images of the 1/8th scale1911 Model T racer that I scratch built as a online tutorial of building with brass. The hand crank turns the crankshaft with aluminum pistons going up and down geared to the camshaft that opens the valves in scale goes through the transmission and geared rear end and turns the rear wheels. The hand brake works the rear brakes. In the engine picture for example the radiator hose clamps work, the spark plugs have the sparking tang with a spark plug wrench to remove them; so at times, I am anal when it comes to some details.

Here is a picture of the trunk that has tools in the upper tray that hides a sound card of the engine running. The quick change jack works to raise the wheels off the ground for changing. The wheel spokes are turned out of hard rock maple to simulate in scale the wood grain of the real spokes. The wheel clinchers hold the tires to the wheels. etc.

Here is a rear view the seats are covered with goatskin leather from women's dress gloves which is very thin and subtle and works great in scale for upholstering. 

 

This Brig is the first time I have built a model from a kit and I figured that was the quickest way to learn ship building since I have no access to a tall ship to do my own plans with CAD. I will hold back my thoughts on these plans and assembly instructions.

 

Ken 

 

[scott larkins]

Ken,

 

Nice work there. I understand your desire to detail.  Detail on my man, detail on. LOL

[GLakie]

That's some really lovely "iron-work" Ken.  I'll be ordering your book around the 1st of next month, along with a couple others. 

[Jack12477]

George, check Barnes & Nobles' price - cheaper - ordered my copy yesterday - ships on Monday.

[GLakie]

Found it already Jack!  Amazon is the same also!  Thanks! 

Edited June 7, 2015 by GLakie

[xken]

Got a little time over the weekend to work on the brig. I spent the time gluing parts and components in place. Everything from the mast sections to all the deck details made so far.

Here is an overview with the masts in place.

 Here is the bow section with the bell and bowsprit glue in place.

A view looking from the stern forward.

Looking at the base of the main mast.

Looking at the base of the foremast.

 

The masts are not glued to the deck slots so they can be removed for access to the deck area around them. 

 

Next to finish up the deck details like the rings and the rest of the cleats and start the canons.

 

I hope those purchasing my book really enjoy and learn from them.

Edited June 9, 2015 by xken

[GLakie]

She looks marvelous Ken!   Since my past soldering experience only involved sweating copper pipes together, I'm sure your book will have a lot to offer guys like me. 

[xken]

George, I do most of mt soldering with a Weller 120 watt soldering iron and on the thick heavy stuff a propane torch with a very small flame. I use Staybrite Solder that I purchase from a plumber supply house and it usually has to be ordered. I get the 1/32" diameter 1 pound roll which is more cost effective than other sources and a 16 oz. container of Harris brand Stay Clean flux.

[GLakie]

I already have small and large propane and butane torches. And the large Weller is one I've been eyeing, but don't have just yet. Thanks for the info!   

[Jack12477]

George, I do most of mt soldering with a Weller 120 watt soldering iron

 

Ken, is that Weller a "gun" type or "pencil" type iron ? The only Weller I found only with that wattage is a "gun" type. All the "pencil" types were max 25 watt.

 

I ordered your book from Barnes & Noble last week. Should arrive this week. Looking forward to reading it.

Edited June 9, 2015 by Jack12477

[GLakie]

The 120 watt ones are the "gun" type Jack. The "pencil" type actually go up to 40 watt here:  http://www.homedepot.com/p/Weller-40-Watt-LED-Soldering-Iron-Kit-SP40NKUS/204195330

[GLakie]

Ken, do you happen to have a link to the larger quantities of the solder and flux?

[Jack12477]

George, Ken,

 

I have an old (and I do mean old) Sears Craftsman 200 Dual Heat solder gun - lo heat is 150 watts hi heat is 230 watts.  I assume this is sufficient for anything I might want to solder model-boat-wise ???  I may get the Weller 40 watt pencil - think the pencil I have is 25 watt but not Weller brand. The Craftsman still works fine.

[xken]

Here is a link to the Weller SP-120 that I use. 

 

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP120-Watt-Soldering-Iron/dp/B00002NB9K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1433881352&sr=8-1&keywords=weller+sp120

 

As for the solder and flux I went to the local welding supply shop and they ordered it for me and had it in a few days. I imagine in Dearborn there are a few.

 

Ken

[GLakie]

Wow!  Thanks Ken. Sorry Jack, for the wrong info!   I should have looked directly on the Weller site for those pencil types. The largest wattage Weller product HD advertises is 40 watt. 

[Jack12477]

Thanks okay George.  So question will the Craftsman "behemoth" I already have work for my simple needs? Or do I spring for the Weller Ken has? I think the only other soldering iron I have is a 25 watt pencil type.  Suggestions ?

[xken]

Just a word on soldering; patience is needed to let the iron get hot enough for the solder to flow. Most issues I have seen with cold joints is not allowing the iron to get hot enough. If one has a cold joint, add more flux and retry with the really hot iron.

 

I started to finish up capstan and thought I would show my humble effort at adding the top detail.

Here is the reference photo I found of it.

 

To add the top metal ring I started with a brass sheet piece .005" thick and covered it with a blue marker to see the scribed lines better. Drew two concentric circles the correct size. Then drilled a starter hole for the jeweler saw blade. Scribed a line through the center and then marked of 36 degrees with a compass from the first line. Then with a small compass marked off the 10 bolt head locations. Using a small center punch on a steel block I hit each location with a slight tap.

Here is a view of the bolt heads on the opposite side that will be the top good side when finished.

Small parts get hard to handle when sawing so I spray glued (3M 77) it to a scrap piece of wood as a carrier for handling.

Once the center was sawed out I cleaned the edge up with a needle file. Then I sawed out the outer edge and cleaned it up.

Here is the part ready to paint.

I hand painted a star on the top of the capstan the size of the inside diameter of the circle. If I had decal paper I might have made a decal; I figured that I could at least hand paint one quicker to keep going. I then CA'd the painted ring in place. The capstan will not be glued into the deck so if I decide later to rework the star.

 

I have also been busy with cleats, bits, eye bolts etc. Just a great deal of little items that are easier to add now than later.

 

 

[UpstateNY]

Lovely work Ken. Great tip as well on how to form the bolts.

 

Cheers,

 

Nigel.

[GLakie]

I'm with Nigel on this as well Ken. Very nice! 

[xken]

Thank you for the compliments! On the bolt heads this can be done on aluminum and copper as well and experiment with the amount of force to hit with for various results. Also the hardness of the material will affect the look as well. I have used this many times on thin aluminum for rivet heads.

 

A question for anyone.....the red board in the reference picture is not mentioned or shown in the plans; is it a brake or positioning board for the capstan that indexes in the bottom openings next to the deck?

[GLakie]

It looks like it's exactly what you're thinking Ken. Don't know for sure though, but it does look like it's meant to be pushed into the lower notches and used as a stop.

[dgbot]

Ingenious way ti do the job.  You are correct that in soldering the heat is important.  I have a 40W weller and it dos not alway get the heat I need but I am to clumsy to use a gun.

David B

[jct]

Very nice Ken...following with interest

[xken]

Working away on hull details and sorted out the sheaves that go through the hull walls. I decided to make a length of sheave profile using 1/32" stock forming a hollow rectangle shape. I then carefully cut a slightly undersized rectangular hole through the outer hull wall and then very carefully enlarged the hole to fit the profile. Then with a small drill bit drilled the four corners into the inner wall and cut it to size. 

The profile end was primed,sanded and then painted with green paint and inserted into the hole to fit flush with the inner hull surface. Once fitted it was CA'ed in place and when set placed masking tape around the profile to protect the painted hull surface and cut the outside length off. With masking tape still in place the exposed surface was sanded,primed and painted yellow. Tape removed and painted to blend with surface. Three more were repeated using the same profile part.

Here is a picture of the profile inserted.

Here is the finished outside of the sheave.

 

Next I started adding eye bolts . The kit has two sizes so I added the larger ones to the outside bow and side surfaces since they seemed too large for inside application and not enough of them.

 

I then added the small eye bolts down the waterway and sheer plank and outside transom per kit plan instructions. Keep in mind the bowsprit (4) and foremast (8) have these already added. I then thought I would start at the center gun port as a pattern for the rest and added the 4 rings to eye bolts on either side; then two on the planksheer on each side of the gun and finally the eye bolt and ring towards the center of the deck. I then looked at the remaining bag of eye bolts and thought not enough there in the bag. Sure enough the Bill of Materials said a bag of 120; counted out the the ones I used and the remainder in the bag and totaled just 80 not 120. Then quick math told me that 22 x 7 = 154; not enough to begin with. Emailed Model Expo and they should send more so I will just finish out with what I have.

Here is a picture of the gun port pattern. If I am understanding correctly the ropes are attached with hooks to these rings. Feedback would be appreciated.

 

Back to eye bolts and rings.

 

 

 

 

 

[dgbot]

You must have trained some carpenter ants to o that work.  My fingers would be to big to pull it off.

David B

[GLakie]

Looks like you have a good handle on the cannon rigging Ken. You have to wonder id anybody at ME's quality-control bothers counting all those tiny little parts in their kits. Probably not by the looks of it. I'll be doing a more thorough review of mine before getting started for sure.