US Brig Niagara by xken - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1/64

[xken]

I have settled on a color for the gun stripe and am moving forward on the planking. Here is the color and the start of the planking on the starboard side starting at the stern and moving forward. These planks are just set in place and will need some fine tuning on the edges before the final gluing in place.

 

Ken

[GLakie]

That yellow looks like a good color match to the common shades seen depicted Ken! Nice! 

[xken]

Thanks George! The color is close based on the pictures I have seen and of course the light conditions will change a color as well. As long as the impression is close it works for me. Here are additional in progress of the starboard side planking. I have settled on a process of doing them that is improving with each one.

I will do the bow section the same way I did the inside with a 1/64" birch plywood carrier to handle the compound curving. I have the patterns done and just need to transfer to the plywood.

Here is the aft section.

 

The forward section.

 

Here is an overall view completed to this point.

 

Now to the bow sections.

Ken

 

[GLakie]

Looks great Ken! She's starting to get her hull profile together. 

 

Cheers

[scott larkins]

If you want to get a better idea of the color, try taking pics outside on a sunny day.  I do it that way and I've always been happy with the results.

[xken]

Scott, absolutely correct and also if I had the real brig on hand to compare to. Since I only have on site photos on the earlier page I will just make the judgement call. When I worked I had a computer color matching system at my disposal which was fantastic. We also had it matched to use automotive paints so you just took the formula in to the local paint shop and they could mix it up. 

Now I just have a pair of old eyes and judgement.

Ken

[xken]

Finally finished up the gun stripes. The bows sections required carving away stock from the framework to allow for the thickness of the carrier plywood. I am also very satisfied with the color as compared to photographs available. While waiting for paint and glue to set I also finished up the lower transom down to the keel.

 

I then fabricated a deck pattern using the model structure rather than the plans with various pieces of spare stock. 1/16" square was used on the sides for ease of bending and being cross braced to maintain shape. The real challenge here was to not glue the pattern to the structure.

 

Once the pattern glue was set; reinforcement braces were added to assure correctness of pattern. I then cut a 1/32" sheet using the pattern.

 

The 1/32" pattern required a little perimeter fussing to sand to a press fit. I still have to add the slots for the two masts. This is what I will use as a pattern to now build the deck which I think will be much easier to build outside the hull than inside. I will also have the benefit of being able to access the inside when adding the hull planking. This may not be a traditional approach, but I will find out soon enough.

I am also thinking of using black glue on the decking to emphasis the grouting and stain the decking with colonial oak. I will do a test section first to see what it looks like.

 

Ken

 

[GLakie]

Looks great Ken. Definitely a unique approach, but so far the results are outstanding. There will be quite a few deck fittings that can be installed off the ship as well. 

 

Cheers

[Guest Tim I.]

Nice progress and color selection for the gun-stripe.

 

- Tim

[xken]

Made a test with the black glue experiment using white glue and Lamp Black; my first attempt I added too much Lamp Black which resulted in a weak glue joint. I added more white glue to the mix and then had a strong joint also a more of a darker gray than a true black. Lamp Black can be purchased at any paint store that mixes paint, I bought 1 ounce for less than a dollar.

 

After the glue set I sanded then piece down to get a nice clean joint. I then stained with Colonial Oak which looks similar to the deck of the real brig pictures. The stain I have is oil based so must be stained after gluing. Staining first would result in poor adhesion of the glue unless a water based stain is used.

 

I water soaked two long strips in the plastic bag that wood strips are shipped in over night and edge formed them and clamped one at a time to the 1/32" pattern. The clamped half overhung the edge of a desk while weighted to keep the pattern flat and I used a ruler to check the flatness of the pattern. When one was dried on the pattern it was removed and the second clamped and dried. The longer the parts are left dried (ideally overnight) the better the results with less spring back.

Here is a closeup showing the flatness of the pattern which is critical.

This shows the pattern with the formed strips with the deck planking awaiting the black glue.

Now to sort out the butt pattern for the deck planks; right now I am considering a length of 4 inches for the individual planks and then bleeding off with random lengths at the stern and bow.

 

Ken

[xken]

Proceeded with the gluing of the deck planks with black glue, which was slow going to assure each piece adhered correctly. I was able to complete one half before calling it a night last evening.

 

The planks were premarked and cross cut with an Xacto blade just about half way through each location before gluing in place. I marked planks at 4 inches with a one inch stagger to the next that allowed for three boards between butt joints. I found it easier to work with four planks at a time to cross cut, glue in place, glue fill the cross cut and wipe off the excess with a wet paper towel followed immediately with a dry one to absorb any excess water. I then weighted down and moved to the next course. 

 

Here is a close up showing a course ready to glue.

 

I am finished and the deck now just needs to dry completely before sanding. Hopefully this experiment should work.

 

Ken

[GLakie]

I hope it does Ken. Don't see any reason why it wouldn't. It's a method that assures a nice flat, clean installation, as opposed to doing them one at a time on the ship.

 

Cheers

[Don Quixote]

Nice job. I hope I remember this on my next ship!

[xken]

George, it worked very well for my first attempt and I have learned a few things for the next time I do this.

Here is the rough sanded deck plank sheet. A few of the butt cuts I did not cut quite deep enough or I did not plunge the blade evenly as seen in the red circle. These were easily fixed with another carefully placed blade cut and a dab of black glue filler.

 

Here is the full 24" long sheet ready to cut to shape using the pattern, both the perimeter and mast holes.

 

Located the pattern on the sheet and made sure it was square to the sheet before tracing the perimeter and hole locations. I used a steel block to weigh it down to avoid shifting. This is one of those where you need a third arm.

 

This shows the sheet cut and fit to the ship's deck area. Keep in mind that the next step will be to locate the two strakes down each side and cut the deck sheet to receive them. And then glue them in place as well.

 

Here is a close up showing the nice fit I got using the pattern and then some careful trimming and sanding. Even a blind pig gets lucky now and then. I just hope I do not screw it up adding the strakes.

 

Now to see what it looks like when it is eventually stained.

Ken

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[GLakie]

Now that looks like your experiment worked out splendidly Ken. The planking turned out great and fits like a glove. Is the deck butted up to the waterway, or is that yet to be installed? I couldn't tell with these eyes, if it's already there.

 

Cheers

[xken]

George, it is butted up to the waterway for now and I am in the process of cutting in the strakes that fit between the deck planking and the waterway. On the plans it is called the nibbing strake. The top waterway is in the shadow and the bottom (in the picture) the red is the waterway with the planksheer on top of it.

 

Ken

[UpstateNY]

Hi Ken,

 

Your decking test looks great and your entire build looks really clean.

 

One question is do you think your method would work well if there is significant fore to aft curvature to the deck?  You were extremely careful to make sure the deck remained flat so I assume the Niagara deck is pretty flat in both directions.

 

Enjoying following along.

 

Cheers,

 

Nigel.

[GLakie]

Now that I looked again with fresh eyes, I can see that's probably what you had in mind. Seems like a good method to me, and the whole assembly should flex enough to follow the slight contours of the deck framing. Nice!

 

Cheers

[xken]

Nigel, the deck was glued together flat and as a result there is quite a bit of glue that seeped to the underside as each strip was added; consequently as I sanded and dried the sheet it developed a slight side to side arc that worked perfect for the deck which has a slight side to side crown.

 

Now that it is cut to shape it is quite flexible both fore and aft as well as side to side. I can bend front to rear about 4 inches quite easily; which is a factor of length, side to side bend is about 3/4". As for a compound bend in both directions at the same time I am sure it could be done with a resulting flat spot where the two arcs would intersect. If more severe than this I would add a reinforcing thin fabric to the underside for additional strength. Much like the fabric used on RC airplanes (not the heat shrink film).

 

Ken

[xken]

Nigel, here is a quick picture of the deck flexibility at roughly 4 inches with a little more to go.

 

George, here is a better picture showing the first side strake glued in place against the waterway. The deck surface was masked off to avoid additional glue on it.

 

Here I have just cut in the second strake using the mast holes to locate the deck in place holding the first strake tight against the waterway. I then very carefully with one hand pressed the second strake in place against the waterway and both cut and pressed against the strake with the tip of the blade trimmed the excess the length of the strake and pressed it in place as I went. 

 

The glue will take up some space since it will be glued separately and not in place, which will require some fine tuning once the glue has set.

 

Ken

 

 

[xken]

After fitting and a little fussing the second strake was glued to deck edge with the black glue and 1/4" masking tape to hold in place.

 

Here the deck with sanded starkes is final fitted with a slight press fit.

 

Here is the deck stained with Golden Oak and now drying before being clear coated.

 

Now to sort out the hull planking.

 

Ken 

[GLakie]

Turned out real nice Ken! Glad to see your experiment worked flawlessly. 

 

Cheers

[Canute]

Nicely done. The deck looks great!

[UpstateNY]

Hi Ken,

 

Very interesting...looks like the technique enables more than enough flex for even a compound curved deck. Fabric backing would be a good precaution to avoid any tendency for the planks to separate over time for these cases.

 

The final stained deck also looks great against the black, red and ochre colors.

 

Cheers,

 

Nigel.

[xken]

The deck has been painted with clear urethane and set aside for later use. Now I have started the planking of the hull. For me this is a similar process I have done before with airplane fuselages and wings and attention to detail and understanding what is happening to each piece will result in tight fits and thus minimal use of filler. Unfortunately, the thicknesses of the wood strips does vary that will require additional filler at certain places rather than excess sanding resulting in flat spots.

 

Before starting I made a hull holder that clamps into my panavise and adjustable. I used the scrap 1/4" wood from the laser cut sheet. Not fancy but very effective and saved some money.

Here is an overall view for the benefit of others that may build this ship in the future and save money.

 

I used the mast holes with the parts being cut to a loose press fit. I salvaged the machine screws and wing nuts from the fair a frame unit. Here is a close up of the fit to the mast holes.

 

Here are a couple of pictures of the hull planking at the center section. I followed the instructions and used the lengths recommended and they are working very well. For the tapering I am using my mini wood plane and the widths on the plans for the bow and stern and adjusting as needed. I am into the second belt at this point.

 

Here is a close up, my goal is the minimal use of filler. However there are varying thicknesses within the wood strips that you may see in the pictures.

 

Back to planking.

 

Ken

[GLakie]

Your planking looks splendid so far Ken!  Seems like a nice, tight fit from what i can see.

 

Cheers

[gjdale]

You really seem to be a natural for this Ken. All that previous experience in other forms of modelling, coupled with your inherent ingenuity, are really coming to the fore.

[scott larkins]

Ken,

 

Wow, I've got to keep that deck planking method in mind when I start mine.  The planking is coming along well as well.  I bow at your expertise.

[xken]

I have added the planking on both sides up through Belt "C" using the 3/16" strips supplied in the kit which were trimmed down to the 5/32" thickness on the plans at Bulkhead "H" and blended fore and aft. After installing two planks I thought it best to install the garboard which indexes into the rabbet at the keel and traps a stealer at the stern.

After checking other builds I could not find how others did it; only finished hulls. So for the benefit of others who may follow and wonder as I did; right ,wrong or otherwise here is how I did it.

 

First I cut and installed the stealer from bulkhead "M" to the stern. I then started with a strip of 3/16" and cut it to length from the stern to bulkhead "B" per the plans. I cut the shape out for the stealer while maintaining the full 3/16" width at the stern. Also while clamped in place I rough cut a curve from bulkhead "B" to bulkhead "E".  The strip was removed and section "B" to just past "E" was soaked in water; once soaked it was then hand formed to match the curve of the keel and index into the rabbet.

Once the curve was fitted the entire plank was then clamped in place to allow the curve to dry and set. In the meantime while clamped from "B" to "K" to allow the stealer cut out section to flex this inside edge that mated to the stealer was cut and trimmed on the inside at a steep angle to match against the stealer. Be careful not to cut the top edge and disrupt the smooth edge line. See pictures below.

 

Here is a close up of the bow area at bulkhead "B" with garboard end indexed into rabbet.

 

This shows the center section with 5/32" width exposed at bulkhead "H".

 

This shows the stern section with the stealer glued in place with the plank clamped to allow the front to dry.

 

Now back to planking and honey-do's.

 

Ken

 

[xken]

Finished up the rest of the planking between honey-do's. I am glad I had a little experience in planking airplanes when it got to the stern and bow areas and had to do some creative stealer work. I am glad that this will be a painted hull based on the butt joint patterns which I am sure are not to shipwright standards. It would have been very helpful if the plans had included a few butt lines to show the pattern.

Please keep in mind this is my first ship build.

 

Here are three views and some areas have had a little rough sanding done to them. 

 

 

Here is the bow area.

 

 

And a stern view, the transition to the transom still needs a little fine tuning.

 

 

Now to finish up the sanding and prep work for painting.

 

Ken