HM Brig Supply 1759 by bryanc - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1:64

[Jparsley]

As I have yet to do my second layer is it thicker like the first layer or just the very thin veneer type stuff

[bryanc]

The 'walnut strip' is 1mm thick whereas the limewood is 1.5mm, so its significantly thinner - and feels it!

 

Bryan

[hornet]

Hi Bryan. As you move forward with your second layer of planking, you may like to consider using PVA wood glue instead of CA (superglue). The use of wood glue such as titebond, or my preferred glue a quick drying PVA from Selleys is not only much easier on your fingers because it is water based but is a lot more economical and has no toxic fumes - as CA does. You can use a gel type CA (this is not runny) on the end of the planks to help hold them in place while the PVA glue dries ( only a couple of minutes in the case of the quickset PVA). Using PVA allows you to move, adjust or even remove an reshape where necessary. CA is much less forgiving.

[bryanc]

I take your point and will look into getting some of the woodfiller mentioned - if only to minimise the very real risk of me gluing my fingers to the ship!

 

Thanks!

 

Bryan

[bryanc]

PVA v CA (continued)

 

The decision whether I use PVA or CA (Superglue) for keel planking has been very decisively taken for me; I have become very intolerant to CA glues! After two evenings heavy use of the stuff I suddenly 'came down with' very bad flu symptoms, and after a drastically sleepless night when I became convinced I was close to expiring(!), I have sworn off it!

 

But I’m finding using ordinary wood glue or (the recently purchased) Aliphatic glue quite frustrating especially for the planking, where the use of pins has now become obligatory especially towards the prow where the bend in the planks is too much for wood glue. I used the CA simply because it eliminated the pin holes (mostly), but the flu has decided otherwise!

 

It did raise the issue of clamps, and I had recently ordered a set of Amati Fast Clamps. I found them worse than useless! Has anyone any opinion on these things? What a waste of money, they don’t clamp anything, barely hanging on, never mind holding fast.

 

Luckily I had spotted some cheap and cheerful Silverline Mini Clamps in my local hardware store. At less than £4.00 the pair, they do exactly what the Amati clamps were meant to do. Now they are intended as carpentry clamps, and with anything more demanding than model building I suspect they would be a bit of a joke, but for model building I find them superb – limited on curving keels, but they outperformed the Amati without question.

 

 

The observant may spot my attempts at treenailing on the foredeck of the ship. A lot of cleaning up needs to be done, but I think I will stick with this method. Drilled holes filled with white woodfiller. I have experimented with mixing a darker wood stain with the filler (hence the staining on the deck!), but eventually opted for the plain white. It ‘suggests’ the treenails without overemphasising them, a trap many people fall in.

 

 

Bryan

 

 

[mtdoramike]

Beautiful work, but this seems to be a different HMS Supply than the Artesania Latina kit as far as shape goes me thinks?

 

 

Mike

[bryanc]

Beautiful work, but this seems to be a different HMS Supply than the Artesania Latina kit as far as shape goes me thinks?

 

 

Mike

 

Hi Mike,

 

Thanks for the compliment, she's hardly beautiful, but she's coming along. This is the Caldercraft version and indeed it does appear to be a different ship to the Artesania Latina version. I was prompted to have a look and found some pics of that kit being built, and yes that version appears to be a much different bird; the main deck appears a longer and with three hatchways in it for starters. Referring to "the bible"; the Powerhouse Museum Collection (http://www.powerhousemuseum.com/collection/database/?irn=238338&img=154993), it would appear from that standpoint alone, the Artesania version is the more correct!

 

Bryan

[mtdoramike]

Thanks for clearing that up Bryan.

 

Mike

[hornet]

Being half way through my Caldercraft build of HM Supply, I too found many differences between the Caldercraft and the Artesania kits. After close inspection of the build by Dan Vadas I noticed the model seemed more `rounded' than the Caldercraft kit. When comparing them both to the Powerhouse Museum model, I could see that both kits had some similarities and some differences to this as well. Things became even more confused for me when I looked at a contemporary painting of the HM Supply (see below)

 

 

I think that the overall `shape' of the Caldercraft version is more accurate, but many other details are more accurately shown in the Artesania Latina kit. The Caldercraft kit was reasonably inexpensive and this may account for some of the omissions (like a ship's boat). With a lot of `bashing' I have ended up producing a hybrid of all four configurations. It may not be entirely accurate but I am having fun with it.

Edited April 11, 2015 by hornet

[bryanc]

Being half way through my Caldercraft build of HM Supply, I too found many differences between the Caldercraft and the Artesania kits. After close inspection of the build by Dan Vadas I noticed the model seemed more `rounded' than the Caldercraft kit. When comparing them both to the Powerhouse Museum model, I could see that both kits had some similarities and some differences to this as well. Things became even more confused for me when I looked at a contemporary painting of the HM Supply (see below)

 

supply.jpg

 

I think that the overall `shape' of the Caldercraft version is more accurate, but many other details are more accurately shown in the Artesania Latina kit. The Caldercraft kit was reasonably inexpensive and this may account for some of the omissions (like a ship's boat). With a lot of `bashing' I have ended up producing a hybrid of all four configurations. It may not be entirely accurate but I am having fun with it.

 

Yes I think you're right Steve, and your reasoning is spot on. Like you I intend adding a ship's boat to the mix! But the most telling thing you said was the last sentance, I couldn't agree more :-)

 

Bryan

[bryanc]

Hull Planking Complete

 

Nearly...just a little filler and a lot of sanding, then its complete. Because of my super glue problems I've had to use pins quite a lot, certainly more than I wanted to, but it won't look too bad filled, sanded and painted.

 

I've elected to go for the Geoffrey Ingleton (Powerhouse Museum.com) colour scheme or a variation of it, the Victory touch, black on yellow! With white below the waterline. Should be interesting.

 

 

 

Now it gets a little more involved...

 

Bryan

 

 

 

[bryanc]

Hull Embellishments Continue...

 

My apologies, I realise I have done quite a lot of work without documenting it, sorry. I completed planking the hull, I did finish treenailing the deck (after a fashion), although my process has left the deck randomly stained with the filler used; I cannot decide whether it looks a mess, or it actually enhances the appearance!

 

I completed some of the more basic deck and bulwark fittings - including prematurely adding the bashed facia c/w half open brass hinged door, which I proceeded to demolish accidentally whilst manhandling the ship! I think it’s repairable.

 

 

Then I part painted the hull and started adding the unique fittings (in the Victory livery). And that is where I'm at. One (of the many) things troubling me is adding fiddly bits without the use of CA glue; it really is frustrating trying to secure things while they dry and cure, rather than just holding them for a couple of seconds. But then I don't want those flu symptoms again, which, believe it or not, haven't completely disappeared after a whole week!

 

 

 

Now, after completing the hull (and rudder etc.), I move back up to the deck to add all the furniture and more interesting bits! There are quite a few 'creative' ideas to be implemented here!

 

Bryan

 

[Canute]

Bryan, you may have to get a mask with organic filters.

[riverboat]

Hi Bryan..... your build is coming along nicely, I like the colors you chose ....... I'm not very fond of ca either... I use Titebond, it has a very fast setting time. I'm not sure if it's available in your neck of the woods, but I'm sure you must have something comparable. Ck. it out.

 

Frank

[hornet]

I used Zap-a- gap CA glue to copper the hull of my Sloop Norfolk. It was my first attempt at copper plating. Up until this time I had never had any health problems with CA glue. Even though I did the coppering outside on a deck, I too came down with symptoms similar to flu. In fact I thought I had a very bad cold and ended up taking a couple of days off work. The Admiral suggested that I may have been suffering from the effect of CA fumes. At first I thought that this could not be so as there was no warning on the bottle. However, after doing some research, I discovered that this was a fairly common problem. I now never use CA - even a very small amount - without a face mask.

Edited April 18, 2015 by hornet

[bryanc]

Thanks for the advice guys. I'll investigate the face masks, in fact have just checked out Amazon and they have a good selection. Similarly with the Titbond Frank, but I am currently awaiting delivery (from across the pond!) of some Aleene's "Fast grab tacky glue"! We'll see how that performs.

 

Bryan

[bryanc]

On the deck

 

Working on the deck fittings and furniture, usually my favorite bit; I love the detail. However this time a little more taxing; what sadist thought up the hatch covering eyelets and bolts? Probably the same one that thought up the ladders! Still enormously good fun though. I'm not sure about the colour of the hatch coverings, attractive, but hardly the colour they would have been. However most of it will be obscured by the ships boat which I intend will sit there.

 

 

 

I'm still well aware I haven't yet painted the lower keel (white) which I should do before I develop the deck much further of course. And the rudder, I always neglect the rudder!

 

 

Bryan

[bryanc]

The build continues...

 

….mostly with deck fittings and furniture. But I’ve been beset with problems hence the slow progress, the ship’s boat and its cradle for one caused no end of grief. The cradle itself (its “bashed” of course) is currently on its third design as previous ones proved unsuitable, mostly because of potentially fouling the cannon placement, which, as observed before, is a little unreal anyway.

 

When the latter happens that is, because the cannon assembly is another cause for concern; the cannon and especially the wheels are so tiny and awkward to assemble I’m beginning to despair. I’ve even looked online for ready built cannon but can’t find any at this scale. I’d be interested to know how others got on with the construction of these.

 

But we must persevere of course… Onwards and upwards.

 

 

 

 

Bryan

 

[riverboat]

Nice progress.... she's looking real good!!

 

Frank

[bryanc]

Nice progress.... she's looking real good!!

 

Frank

 

Thank you, praise indeed Frank, I'm sure you have not missed my boat cradle and windowed hatch covering is not unlike your own ;-) Yours is very much amongst the ones I look to for inspiration. I hope I'm brave enough to tackle the 'weathering' like yours come the day.

[bryanc]

Moving up to the masts

 

Just a quick update as things are moving on. Deck fittings almost complete - I've removed the forward hatch covering and intend replacing it with something more interesting, although I don't know what yet! I replaced the supplied cannon with better ones, I wasn't happy with the originals. Similarly I bought replacement deadeye strops; I was tearing my hair out with the rubbish supplied ones. You will also note the proportionally oversized anchor rope has been replaced with chain. Now I'm the first to admit that, while I believe anchor chain was employed at the time this ship was constructed, there is no way brass chain would be used! I did try to paint it black, but it didn't take kindly to it.

 

I am particularly pleased with the bowsprit assembly; with its addition suddenly the ship has life!

 

 

The eagle eyed may just notice the ship now stands in a keel clamp. It’s the over expensive Amati one. Now I've not been particularly impressed with Amati products, but must admit the clamp is good, and what a difference it makes to the construction process. It’s expensive, but recommended.

 

But now up to the masts! You'll notice in the one photo (apologies for just one, I took several, but the others didn't do the work justice), the lower foremast is well underway, and it soon became apparent they (the complete masts) should be fully constructed before being permanently placed in position.

 

Onward and (literally) upward!

 

Bryan

 

 

[riverboat]

Hi Bryan..... now the fun starts!!! ........ she's looking real smart!!

 

Frank

[bryanc]

Masts are up...

 

Both masts now completed and erected (well, nearly completed, various blocks need adding here and there), but next to be constructed and added are the yards and booms of course before and, as Frank so succinctly put it; "... the fun starts"! I.e. shrouds, ratlines and rigging (groan)!

 

 

 

 

Bryan

 

[riverboat]

Hi Bryan..... you're moving right along, just wondering , do you have all the blocks attached to the masts. It looks as though  some might be missing. You might want to look at  all the plan sheets concerning the standing and running rigging. If you missed any nows the time to attach them, later will be very difficult . The reason I bring this up is, it looks like there should be two blocks at the very top of each mast,

just ck it out to be on the safe side. Have Fun!!!

 

Frank

[bryanc]

Hi Bryan..... you're moving right along, just wondering , do you have all the blocks attached to the masts. It looks as though  some might be missing. You might want to look at  all the plan sheets concerning the standing and running rigging. If you missed any nows the time to attach them, later will be very difficult . The reason I bring this up is, it looks like there should be two blocks at the very top of each mast,

just ck it out to be on the safe side. Have Fun!!!

 

Frank

 

Hi Frank, You're quite right of course, there are quite a few blocks missing. Now I know it may not make sense, but in a lot of cases I hold fire until the moment of fitting, and do them as I go along, as in many cases I work backwards and fit whatever the blocks are attached to before the blocks themselves. I hope that makes sense, although I doubt it rereading it!

[bryanc]

Stays etc. nearly completed

 

The fitting of the stays, backstays, running rigging etc. continues apace. Alternatives had to be found to some involved items, cleats for instance were too tiny to hold in place under the tension of the ropes.

 

I’ve still not come up with an alternative to the removed hatchway covering, and the starboard anchor, despite being roped to the wooden cleats several times, steadfastly works free and just wants to dangle in space. I might just let it!

 

Of course construction has not gone entirely to plan; the fore topgallant mast is about version 5. Three went the way of botched creation (“over-turned” or snapped while “turning”), while the forth snapped off as stays were being fitted! Now while I admit to uttering a nautical phrase or two when it happened, it’s interesting to note that rather than immediately turning to the rum, I took a deep breath and continued; I simply sawed the old ‘stump’ off, delicately drilled a hole into the existing mast, “turned” another topgallant mast, varnished it and when dry glued it into the prepared hole!

 

 

 

 

 

I should just mention I haven’t got a lathe, and topgallant masts are I’m sure, too small to be turned as such anyway. I simply hold my Dremel  757 with one hand and work the doweling to and fro with the other. Hardly very accurate (or safe!), but it does the job, mostly. Occasionally I'll clamp it into the vice to work the doweling over, which is more accurate and certainly safer, but the Dremel is badly designed in that claming it in this way can actually dismount the power pack, which isn't very helpful!

 

The Dremel will of course be used in part to “turn” the yards, which are next on the list. According to the manual, they should be fitted before the rigging shrouds. So be it.

 

Bryan

[riverboat]

Hi Bryan..... I have a Proxxon lathe and never use it... at my age I do everything by hand!!

 

Frank

[hornet]

Hi Bryan

 

I too have a proxxon Lathe. I use it all the time. Recently finished turning all masts and yards for my HMS Supply with it. It is a great tool. Speed is infinitely adjustable and collets allow you to work accurately with very small dowel or square timber. I also used it to turn up very small oars for my scratch built ship's boat on the deck of the Supply and the scratch built capstan. I also turn up pedestals for my model stands. It is worth the money - one of my favourite mini power tools.

[Thunder]

Bryan, I would consider doing your shrouds and ratlines on now while you still have finger room as your stays and back stays will get in the way. Also, if you look up the ' order of dressing the masts and yards' rigging to me and you, shrouds went round the head first before stays and back stays, however, fore stays are useful to prevent the shrouds pulling the mast out of align whilst rigging. This is something I learnt with plastic kits where I would rig temporary fore stays to higher up the mast doubling and then rig them correctly after the shrouds were in place.

[mtdoramike]

Beautiful work on her, but that pink box kind of turns me off a bit

 

mike