Cutty Sark by Izzy Madd - Airfix - PLASTIC - Just trying to get it to go together

[CaptainSteve]

Izzy,

 

I'll take three !!

Where's the 'Add To Cart' button ??

[Izzy Madd]

not a GOOD SIGN......hope you can fix it!

Yeah I'll just put a six inch nail through that should hold

[Izzy Madd]

Izzy,

 

I'll take three !!

Where's the 'Add To Cart' button ??

While I'm all for making a quick buck. I'd rather share. But what am I selling sharing‽

 

If it's another tutorial it's yours for the exsorbatant fee of free. As a returning client.

 

But if its the ball joint i can give you the enpbay page gladly. As that is the hardset bit but at £3.50 ita not orth trying to make one. And a piece of boxsection or two bits of 2x2. And your spoilt for choice. You could have one for every model ongoing and just swap them over as you want.

[Izzy Madd]

Ahoy there me hearties,

 

Beware there be naked ladies further down the page. So be warned, not for the faint hearted...

 

Well here's the reason for the lack of progress, and despite the rumours put about by Cap'n Flint. It's not because I'm a lazy s**.

 

But after being stripped of her finery and loosing both the dolphin striker, and an arm. And having the upheaval of leaving the dry dock. We can proudly unvail the all new,all smiling, all singing, all dancing, and probably wi fix and Bluetooth. And all for under a tenner. As everything else is.

 

The brand spanking, fanfare please. And a roll of drums and even a twenty one gun salute. The latest in ladies attire. You watch they'll all be wanting one this year.

 

Nannie in her altogether, she's had the paint stripped, on the upgraded keel clamp...

Edited June 1, 2015 by Izzy Madd

[Izzy Madd]

There has been talk of sheaves and pullies or whatever they are called.

 

Well upto a diameter of at least 3mm there is the possibility of using copper capillary tube which can be cut with a sharp utility knife or if the admiral doesn't catch you a sharp kitchen knife. My preference is the kitchen knife as it resarpenable and stronger. The use whatever for a pivot depending on your scale also there are things called crimping beads which so long as they are made of metal come in a variety of colours and from 1mm x 1mm upwards. At about 99p for 500. Again making ready made sheaves for catheads, blocks, knightheads whatever.

 

The copper capillary tube cost £5 for 3mts

 

 

I was going to say that if your not happy with picture stand on your head but then you might break something important like a model so here you are the right way up.

 

Edited June 4, 2015 by Izzy Madd

[Izzy Madd]

Can some one please help.

 

I've just been through the arts for my latest Billing model "Mary Ann" 472.

 

And part from a missing prop. Which I know this part isn't I also can't identify

 

This

 

 

Which I'm fairly sure isn't covered by the part number and description "F451" and "Ball"

 

 

So can anyone identify either or my some very strange viewpoint, bearing in mind my own weird out look, convince me that the two are one and the same?

[NenadM]

One of the pins?

 

[Izzy Madd]

And today's top tip for those like me who are fiscally challenged or even just mean.

 

Wondering what to use as ships navigation light.

 

Well here's my answer.

 

 

The cheapest map pins you can get and I do mean cheap. 99p for 250 in red, green, yellow, and blue. The cheapest because they fall apart and they use less dye so they are translucent. As apposed to solid coloured.and even if you need to trim them to fit like this.

 

 

Worry not as even if you have turned or sanded them to fit a simple rub with your favourite brass or car cleaner will restore the clear plastic even bi carb or tooth paste. Basically anything that is designed or used to polish will do. Such as t cut or brasso, other brands are available.(English joke)

 

Stay tune for more useless ideas...

[popeye the sailor]

I use window maker to fill in the lense and paint them for the inside.......I'm good with that    I've even made my own.

 

as for your F451,  it is the ball for the floatation buoys {I added an extra one in my build of the Mary Ann.  I also built the Cux 87,  which is pretty much the same model,  with a slight variation in fittings.   I haven't looked at the Cux instructions  to see whether they show a fittings list {picture}......the Mary Ann instructions don't but I looked at the instructions that Billing Boats show on their site,  and they show that part.   why it looks like that......I couldn't say.

[Izzy Madd]

I use window maker to fill in the lense and paint them for the inside.......I'm good with that    I've even made my own.

 

as for your F451,  it is the ball for the floatation buoys {I added an extra one in my build of the Mary Ann.  I also built the Cux 87,  which is pretty much the same model,  with a slight variation in fittings.   I haven't looked at the Cux instructions  to see whether they show a fittings list {picture}......the Mary Ann instructions don't but I looked at the instructions that Billing Boats show on their site,  and they show that part.   why it looks like that......I couldn't say.

I bought both as a double lot and the images is identical so. As it happens I spotted the number on the plans. I've been through Billing's full catalogue of fittings but the small brass pin is not in them. I think as it came from a vintage kit it's a belaying pin that's been through another process as well.

 

Unles someone knows different said Ester. Another blast from the past...

[Izzy Madd]

And today's Top Tip of the Day.

 

Fed up of dropping those awkward little parts just as you apply the last bit of paint. Or wondering where you can put that part you've painstakingly detailed while it dries and the cats not looking. Then try this

 

 

What is it? Well it's a fly tying vice several differing designs and sizes to suit all clamps to the table or free standing if you clamp it to a bit of wood

[Izzy Madd]

 

Valar dohaeris

 

For a friend...

[keelhauled]

Very creative solutions to finding parts!  looking good!

[Izzy Madd]

Well,

 

After many hours nay weeks of wracking my brains and even a few seconds thinking about it. I've finally found out what the last model I made 35 years ago. I felt it was but I've just seen the exact same model up for sale still untouched. Sadly I think I've got enough for now but here it is.

 

 

And for those observant enough to recognise her it is...

 

 

Yes. Nothing less than the good old Vicky.

 

I think it must be some sort of record though. As I never finished it back then and now I'm about to start. Well working up to it. All over again so if this take me say five years that forty years from start to finish one model...

 

And back then if you didn't have to go forward to dozen pages to find out exactly where something perhaps should be you had put it in the wrong place. So don't complain about instructions today. It's far to simple.

 

I don't like being rushed

Edited June 24, 2015 by Izzy Madd

[Old Collingwood]

Well,

 

After many hours nay weeks of wracking my brains and even a few seconds thinking about it. I've finally found out what the last model I made 35 years ago. I felt it was but I've just seen the exact same model up for sale still untouched. Sadly I think I've got enough for now but here it is.

 

image.jpg

 

And for those observant enough to recognise her it is...

 

image.jpg

 

Yes. Nothing less than the good old Vicky.

 

I think it must be some sort of record though. As I never finished it back then and now I'm about to start. Well working up to it. All over again so if this take me say five years that forty years from start to finish one model...

 

And back then if you didn't have to go forward to dozen pages to find out exactly where something perhaps should be you had put it in the wrong place. So don't complain about instructions today. It's far to simple.

 

I don't like being rushed

Hi izzy.

 

Great start my friend,   i remember that Airfix Vic kit ...very well   i built one when i was a wee lad and after i let it get into a battle with all my Airfix 1/72 scale Waterloo soldiers, i set fire to her :o   not foregetting i was a young lad with a weird imagination and a not very pleased mother

 

OC

[Izzy Madd]

Hi izzy.

 

Great start my friend,   i remember that Airfix Vic kit ...very well   i built one when i was a wee lad and after i let it get into a battle with all my Airfix 1/72 scale Waterloo soldiers, i set fire to her :o   not foregetting i was a young lad with a weird imagination and a not very pleased mother

 

OC

And considering its polystyrene a good job you didn't breath too much of the fumes as well.

 

Mine just disappeared as that ever present enemy of modelling came on the scene. Girls. Then kids etc. hence the 35 year gap.

 

And I still don't know what became of it.

 

As soon as I saw the contents I recognised it as it was about the only one in black as all the others were wood effect brown. Which trying to thread over glued blocks with black thread and awful plans wasn't the best way to keep a pubescent youth happy for long. Not with much better curves on offer anyway.

[Izzy Madd]

Ahoy there,

 

Sorry there has been no new updates regards ship building but I'm rather busy at the moment. Sort some issues. But as its just turned midnight here I thought I'd take a moment to ask a question that's been bothering me.

 

When we start making these models. Which ever they are and out of whatever. We all have intentions of building them as they were when whatever we choose.

 

BUT

 

When you consider that even the HMS Victory. Was subject to the whim of whoever was in command. Such that colours could be changed weekly names altered at the drop of a hat, and adornments, weaponry and methods. All of which were far from written in triplicate. Most times they would be lucky if someone said more than "give her a new coat of paint.". Never mind writing it down.

 

So my question is while we've got a target in our heads. Such as Nenads dilemma regarding the capstan.

 

Does it really matter if we become captain for the day and decide to alter things a little because they look better on the model. Or perhaps we want a slightly different shade of vomit yellow on our model of the Vicky. Or should we stick fast to the letter of the plans. Even if it means we are unhappy with the finished product.?

 

My vote is for stuff the books occasionally and just go with what you like. Look at the Vicky. They are still trying to decide what colour she was and we've got more info on that battle than almost any since. Never mind the feathers.

 

So what's your take on it all?

[CaptainSteve]

From what I've read on MSW, it is pretty much a case of Captain's choice.

 

In other words, if you wish to go for the Baby Puke Puce, as opposed to a nice Vomit Yellow, then that is entirely up to you. Or if you were to choose to fly in the face of all conventional wisdom and add (perhaps) whaling harpoons to the whale-boats on a naval vessel, then that choice would be yours to make, as well.

 

The corollary, of course, is that if you demand nothing less than complete historical accuracy, then you are also free to read every historical paper and discuss every detail in-depth with the experts (and this place has plenty !!). Heck, if you want to, I'm sure nobody would object if you wish to design and build a working time-machine in order to go back and check the details, yourself. Just be sure to take heaps of pictures !!

[Izzy Madd]

Ahoy there, shipmates.

 

Multiple questions tonight.

 

The subject it copper plates.

 

Now I know the HMS Victory takes some 4-4500. But how many does the Cutty Sark take.?

 

Also on plastic models self adhesive works great. But on wooden useless. So does anyone have any suggestions for a glue for copper plates?

 

And no I'm not using CA. I don't want to be picking them up of the floor in a few years. Also I don't really want to be using contact cement as its a nightmare if you touch the wrong place. As its then stuck there and I'd have to wait for the glue to set first. What I want is something like the old poly cement. That can be applied to one surface for about 150mm then stick a row of plates then more glue and so on.

 

So we come to the next bit. Has anyone tried "Zap Goo"? Is it Good, Bad or ugly...

 

And one last one I've got three thousand copper plates. Not enough for one and probably not the other so I'll post an image below but they are 18.5 x 5.5 x 0.11mm between the dimples and 0.30 across the dimples. Does anyone know who's the seller of these? o I can match them up.

 

Thanks

 

[NenadM]

Hello Izzy

 

Visit Rfolsom's log for some answers

 

And think about preparing to immediately removing excess of glue from any placed plate, if yoy want clean and neat work

 

Good luck with army of plates