USS Constitution by Modeler12 - Cross-Section - Bow Area

[Modeler12]

Here is a photograph of the shelf in the aft filling room. It is probably taller than the one in the forward room because there should be more head room.

Notice the bags and other items listed.

There are still some discrepancies since other pictures I have seen of the aft filling room show copper plates on the floor. Here it shows bare planking which appear to slope up to the right (hull shape?). Also I see sprinkler pipes that are very low.

At any rate, I doubt that this shelf was brought here just for this picture.

[Modeler12]

Barrels

I was not at all satisfied with the powder kegs. The bands are too wide and look sloppy.

So I decided to experiment with making barrels of a bit larger size. I will need several in the hold later on.

 

Standard dowel is not the best choice but I went ahead and used 1/4 inch diameter for these trials. It is probably made out of pine.
The main thing is that I wanted to use some narrow tape for the bands rather than painting them. Let me show you my various approaches and the final method I have settled on thus far.

 

I have a small mini lathe (used but from Harbor Freight) with lots of attachments and cutting tools. I modified a cut-off bit and thinned it to 0.032 inch. I will use this later to cut some grooves for the tape. The black tape is 1/64th inch wide and, although it has some adhesive, it does not really stick that well.

I ended up relying on the wet poly wipe to keep it in place (and even then it was a bit of struggle).

 

Here are the steps.
First I clean off the end of the rod and indent it with a simple turning bit.

 

Rather than turning chisels I use a triangular file to round off the end and cut the groove to the length of the barrel.  

Both ends get rounded to my eyeballs. Nothing sacred. After all, coopers used the same eye balls.

 

I finally settled on resting the tape inside a tiny groove as shown. This gives me much better spacing and more uniform looking bands.

 

I may still modify this, but so far it works.

 

 

 

[Modeler12]

There is always a way to improve.

In order to make the band spacing more uniform I decided to use my earlier modification by installing two dial indicators on my mini lathe.

The picture below shows how the traverse head travel can be measured to the nearest 0.001 inch. -- I did not need to use the cross-head travel, so ignore the small dial indicator. It is perfectly safe where it is.

To cut the grooves, (after shaping the barrel form) I position the narrow cut-off bit just to the left of the end. That gives me a 'zero' and will be the first band towards the end of the barrel. I cut the first groove, back out and move the head to the left using the indicator for an accurate position for the next groove, etc.

In the case of these barrels I used a spacing of 0.090 inches.

The two barrels to the far left were my earlier attempt. The others, I think, are more uniform.

 

I need a few more of this size and then will make some more that are shorter and bulkier (like wine barrels). 

I do have a chart showing various sizes of barrels used in the olden days and will use that to 'comply'.

[Modeler12]

A few more and then it is onto something else. The main frame, perhaps.

[GLakie]

Some good-looking barrels Jay!  Can't wait to see it all come together! 

[Mahuna]

Hi Jay

 

Great work on the barrels.  I hadn't seen this log before, so I'll be following along from here on.

[Modeler12]

Thanks George and Frank.

I am taking my time with this project, Frank, so you won't see a lot of progress shortly.

As I am going along I get distracted easily with new ideas on how to use my tools the best way.

Another example is the bracket for the mini lathe that holds the cross feed dial indicator. It is now a section of aluminum bar bent to shape and attached as shown below. The bottom part can be swiveled out of the way (with the wing nut) when I need to move the cross feed more than the 1/2 inch max for the dial indicator. There is also a 8-32 set screw marked 'zero adjust'.

At any rate, for the last few barrels I used both indicators to locate and cut the grooves for the bands.

[Modeler12]

The frame works.

It has been a while since I worked on the main frame. It was simply a matter of procrastinating while the inevitable was waiting for me.

 

In the six inch long section there should be 31 frames, but I only will be showing (in part) only 16. Here they are attached to the keel with some of the 'in-between' frames partly shown. Towards the bottom there will be planking in and outside of the frames, nevertheless, there is a lot of filing and sanding to be done in order for this to look halfway decent.

When the inside is done to my liking I will start the supports for the four decks and see how things go from there on.

The outside of the frames comes later and I will not be concerned about that unless the frames get too thin as I am filing and sanding away  .

I also need to remember where the wires go for the various LEDs.

 

 

[Modeler12]

I think it is going to work!

All along I have been wondering if my approach of prefabbing the decks would come together.
Here is the orlop deck viewed from both ends.

  

I need to do a lot of additional work with the keelson, clamps (the beams that support the deck frames along the hull), the knees, etc. The inside of the port hull will be planked and then the deck will be fitted again.

Meanwhile I will be cutting and fitting the walls of the powder room and more details (including stepping the mast).

 

[lambsbk]

It is exciting to see when things come together AND work! Congratulations. Very nice indeed.

[mtaylor]

Congrats are indeed in order.  Building large structures off-ship and getting it to fit is a scary thing.   Well done, Jay.

Edited October 8, 2015 by mtaylor

[Modeler12]

Thanks guys. At one time I put all decks together and it was scary indeed.

Now I am going along with the assumption that a lot of the deck beams and some frames along the starboard side will be cut away to see the inside.

 

[Modeler12]

The first thing I did is make the keelson. 

There was a lot of controversy about this earlier. I saw drawings with different shapes depending on the time frame. Several of you provided me help, but in the long run I decided to draw up my own plans on the basis of what I learned back then.

 

So, the keelson (not yet glued on) was notched for the small frames that support the copper bottom of the forward gun powder room. 

I hope there is enough clearance for the 'book shelf', but if not, I may have to cut the top part so it fits in the cramped space.

  

 

The next strep is to install the first set of 'clamps' for the orlop deck and then fill the inside of the hull with planking.

I already know that because of the hull shape, I have to taper some of these planks.

[Modeler12]

Tapering planks

After the keelson and the two 'clamps' were in place, I took two of the planks and beveled them so they would fit against the keelson at an angle. They were glued in place one on each side of the keelson. Marquardt refers to them as 'lose limber planks'; mine are not lose.

 

Now I was ready to measure the distance from the keelson to the clamp and see how many planks I needed. I am using some basswood that was ripped to about 0.131 inches. The sketch below shows that I needed 17 planks tapered from .127 inches down to 0.092 inches. I simply divided the measured distances by 17.

 

To taper the planks I used a small block plane mounted in a vise. The wooden block is to keep the plank from rotating. The dial caliper was used to measure both ends and some sandpaper helped to smooth the rough edges.

  

The third picture shows two planks before and after tapering.

[dgbot]

Nice way to use a plane. What brand do you have?

David B

[Modeler12]

Nice way to use a plane. What brand do you have?

David B

Beats me, David. It has been in my garage even before we had a garage. 

The only marking is in the casting 'Made in USA'.

[Modeler12]

The first section of the inside planking is done. This is where the starboard side stops. In fact some of the planking (and frames) towards the middle part will be cut away to show the gun powder room (yet to be installed).

The plank just underneath the clamp had to be 'custom fitted', but it all came together alright. 

[Modeler12]

I did the same with the port side. 

In order to hold the center part of each plank down while gluing, I use various clamps and dead weights (along with some shims).

I wonder how many of you recognize the two types of weights I show below. I did use the lead weights but never caught anything with the iron ball.

  

[Canute]

Jay, I've used a piece of rail as a weight a time or two. But I wanted to weigh down a large, flat item, gluing card and cardboard together.

 

Are those diving weights? Not sure about the iron ball. We've used big weights for surf fishing, but those were lead.

[Modeler12]

Jay, I've used a piece of rail as a weight a time or two. But I wanted to weigh down a large, flat item, gluing card and cardboard together.

 

Are those diving weights? Not sure about the iron ball. We've used big weights for surf fishing, but those were lead.

Indeed those are two lead diving weights (from my SCUBA diving days long ago) and the ball was left over from salmon fishing off the coast of San Fran.

[Modeler12]

Now that the inside planking is done, I was able to trim the orlop deck to fit where it is supposed to go. 

I also finished installing carlings and lodging knees. I had to remake the knees for the new beam sizes and spacing, but I left out two knees and carlings where the frames will be cut later on.

The floor of the gun powder room is supported by beams and is covered with copper. Here that is simulated with copper painted board. This now gives me the locations for the walls of the powder room.

  

Earlier I mentioned that I might have to lower the shelf that holds the cartridges. Now it looks like there will be plenty of headroom, even with copper sheeting on the ceiling of the powder room.

[Modeler12]

The problem is that this would not be visible when the walls below the orlop deck are added.

Here is the first of two walls between the front of this model and the powder room.

It still needs the cutouts for the passage in and out of the room. To show the rest, the wall will be cut away as needed.

All is still loosey-goosey.

My concept all along has been that (when finished) this thing would be displayed at an angle - not straight on.
Hence, the finished parts to port and the details along starboard. But I may cheat here and there.

 

[GLakie]

It's coming together nicely Jay. I'll be great for all on-lookers to see a detailed piece of the inner workings of the ship as well as seeing her in all her splendor in one big display.  Now I'm considering something along those same lines. 

 

Cheers

[Modeler12]

Go for it George. It is a lot of fun learning, doing and seeing the results as you go along. 

I keep thinking about various aspects of this project as I take my morning walks or rowing routine.

Better than watching TV.

 

Here is an example of why I want to add some LED lights.

[mtaylor]

LED's seem like a good idea and with the stuff that's now available size wise, you should have a great looking model.

[Modeler12]

I figured that there are two ways to provide more light below. One is to install LEDs, which I will do. The second is to open up the orlop deck.

The picture below shows how I used my mill to carve away some of the planking. I took it right up to the king plank at the center line. There will be posts on top and below this plank, so I did not want to go any further. By doing this the structure also becomes more visible.

  

The cable for the LEDs goes through a hole I drilled through the keelson. The various LED wires will come together here and the whole thing will be covered with the orlop deck. The wires to the LEDs will be buried underneath the powder floor and then down between the frames where needed. I will still have access to the terminal from behind. There is still room for the large block where the mast steps.

  

The hole through the keelson will line up with one of the two supports that will be made of mahogany dowel (just like I used on the full scale model).

[Bobstrake]

Your build is non-stop amazing! Thank you for sharing.

[Modeler12]

Your build is non-stop amazing! Thank you for sharing.

Thanks Bob.

I do go on as time permits. Right now I hear a timer and the baked chicken is done.

Will be back with more.

[Modeler12]

The chicken was just right (according to the admiral) and the brussels sprouts ok, while the fresh string-bean salad with olives was marginal. Maybe some ice-cream later will help.

 

I have changed my mind about the LED terminal. I will still use the one I showed above for the two 'light rooms' (they are right next to this point). But for the others I added a line that ends up along the port side between frames. From there I can easily connect LEDs where I want them (rather than having all those little guys dangling as I proceed with the rest of this monstrosity). In either case the wires will not be visible. If some belong back or forward I can simply cut a small groove in the frames for the tiny wires.

Meanwhile I cut a template for the aft wall that has the two holes for the 'light room' -not yet cut out.

Will it work????? Will there be enough light??

Who knows? Maybe tomorrow.

 

BTW the three  posts you see are glued to the back of the cartridge shelf. This gives me a perfect reference and a nice 'resting place' for the center of the orlop deck.

[Modeler12]

Stepping the mast

I first tapered the mast section that is below the gun deck. Then I milled the end as shown below.

Using a piece of birch, I milled a 1/4 inch wide slot that would fit across the keelson. Then I cut the key slot to fit the mast.

    

Finally I shaped the block so it would fit inside the frames. I had to do some trial and error machining to make it fit. Then I cut it to length.

Now that I look at the last picture, I realize that the block is too thick. No problem as long as I make the adjustments before it is glued in place. The mast will not be glued at all. It needs to be removed several times as the other decks go on.