Will Everard by Izzy Madd - Billing Boats

[Izzy Madd]

Hi ho,

 

From the insane alchemist.

 

Just a quick surprise update on the blackening brass front.

 

I've just been cleaning some second hand parts up such as cannons. That were painted. So I put them in the neat Detol. And left the for three days. But when I've com to check on the progress.this is happened.

 

 

 

Sorry the first is out of focus its the white paper. I was just trying to show the contrast. The shiny bit is where the CA glue is but that will come of with acetone then back in the Dettol. Cheaper than liver of sulphur.

 

Just use gloves as there is enough caustic soda in there to blind at least so yet again all suggestion are based upon your own safety precautions and all via the IMO clause. So play safe children.

[clearway]

interesting- will bank this idea for later- wonder if it works on copper too

[Izzy Madd]

interesting- will bank this idea for later- wonder if it works on copper too

I'm not sure but I can do a trial if you like and post it. But I would imagine it would as even PVA sends copper black in about an hour. So watch this space.

 

This is the before. Fresh cut and diced. Sorry that was my dinner. Just fresh cut no cleaning so grease oil and whatever the worlds chucked it's way. And we'll see. Remind me though or it could be pickling for a year...

 

Edited July 20, 2015 by Izzy Madd

[Greg the peg leg sailor]

G'day Izzy

You are a mad alchemist my dear mate! Well done

Havagooday

Greg

[Izzy Madd]

The only thing I can imagine might be an issue. As its a big problem for stripped furniture. That is the caustic soda has been primed. That is its been used to strip paint and that could be how the brass is changing colour. But it's no big deal on this scale as its just as easy to use it to clean either brushes. Removes old colour stains great from them. Or flush your airbrush out with it. Either way it's primed. Then just lable it and keep topping it up. And if that's the reason than it should like a good whisky. Improve with age.

[Izzy Madd]

Ahoy there one and all.

 

An update on the update I never posted just to update you.

 

If your still following me. HOW.?

 

When I removed most of the brass it had considerable amounts of the dreaded CA over it which I could have left in the Detol for a month but I decided to speed things up a bit. And so threw them all in a load of acetone. For a couple of days. Tenderises it lovely with a bit of gravy...

 

This then had its own unexpected effect. It removed a lot of the blackness. So as they were multi coloured. Back in the Detol they went. I'm pleased to say that they went even blacker but they do need moving around regular as the underside was far less dark where it had been flat on the bottom.

 

As for the copper... I think it's actually brighter. So no it doesn't work for copper. Sorry folks.

[Izzy Madd]

Ahoy again.

 

As its been so long since my last post. I thought I'd give you another top tip from the other side of sanity.

 

Are you trying to get that perfect finish on those hull planks or decking. But that woods not palming fair and there are holes and grooves where that horrible grain is. Well worry not. I have the solution and it doesn't involve paint.

 

If you need to fill small grain rips or plucks. So as to get a smooth finish without hiding the grain.

 

You need three things some varnish. Any will do but I find alcohol based works best. Such as sanding sealer.

 

Some thinners to suit your varnish.

 

Now the tricky bit. Sneak past the admiral into the bathroom. You want some pure talc. Yes I did say talc. One of the softest minerals and right there at the bottom of Mohs hardness scale. I find the best is simple brand as its just talc. But you can tell if it's pure talc and not synthetic if it feels greasy between your fingers and leaves a shine on your skin. Also just look at the chuffing label.

 

Right listen up here comes the alchemy bit.

 

First thin your varnish down to about two parts thinner to one varnish. So as its just a little thicker than water. Then start adding the talc. It will go cloudy and if you leave it to sit the talc will sink to the bottom. So keep stirring now and then but you want it so as it just sits on the wood or runs slowly down a vertices surface. Make sure you put it on well and it may take a few coats. But not as many as without.

 

Then leave.

 

And when it has fully set the surface will feel gritty that will go with a fine sanding. But that's where you get the fill. And no it doesn't look white as talc absorbs the varnish and goes clear. If it's true talc. And that shine you get on your skin will add to the finish as it is this lubricant that smooths the surface as you sand. And then finish of with normal finish either wax or varnish. And it will be as smooth as the proverbial behind. IMO

[Izzy Madd]

And if you think that's mad wait til I show you what you can do with aluminium powder, rust and glycerin...

Edited July 23, 2015 by Izzy Madd

[Greg the peg leg sailor]

Can't wait mate

[mobbsie]

Hi Izzy,

 

Happy Birthday mate, have a good one, not sure if it's been, gone, coming or still here but whatever it is I hope you enjoy it.  

 

Be Good

 

mobbsie

[Izzy Madd]

Hi,

 

Thanks Mobbsie, as it happens it's ended 3 and a half hours ago but I'm being taken out for a meal with the family today‽ so I'll still be celebrating. As its the last one before the big 50. You never know my mental age might even get into double figure. but then again perhaps not its too boring being grown up.

Edited August 3, 2015 by Izzy Madd

[Greg the peg leg sailor]

Happy birthday mate, a bit late, I'm very sorry.

Greg

[Izzy Madd]

I'm not sure but I can do a trial if you like and post it. But I would imagine it would as even PVA sends copper black in about an hour. So watch this space.

This is the before. Fresh cut and diced. Sorry that was my dinner. Just fresh cut no cleaning so grease oil and whatever the worlds chucked it's way. And we'll see. Remind me though or it could be pickling for a year...

image.jpg

  

Hi ho,

From the insane alchemist.

Just a quick surprise update on the blackening brass front.

I've just been cleaning some second hand parts up such as cannons. That were painted. So I put them in the neat Detol. And left the for three days. But when I've com to check on the progress.this is happened.

image.jpg

image.jpg

Sorry the first is out of focus its the white paper. I was just trying to show the contrast. The shiny bit is where the CA glue is but that will come of with acetone then back in the Dettol. Cheaper than liver of sulphur.

Just use gloves as there is enough caustic soda in there to blind at least so yet again all suggestion are based upon your own safety precautions and all via the IMO clause. So play safe children.

Hi,

 

Thanks Greg the peg

 

A double update as regards blackening.

 

The copper I consider a failure as putting out in the rain would be quicker, here at least. Not so sure in Aussie.:-). But the brass has had a while longer and now the colour is ideal and doesn't rub of on totally uncleaned brass both rubbed down and untouched. As one of the wheels was rubbed down the other straight out of the box.

 

 

I realise it may take longer than the chemicals sold for the job. But if you've got parts you know you want black. You know it at the start. So start the dip then then when you are ready so are they. And no oil or corrosion in sight.

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

The odd colouring of the centre of one of the wheels is due to the reflective nature of the surface. And is an iridecant black like the feathers of a magpie.

[clearway]

who said alchemists never discovered anything!  being 1 off the big 50 meself i know the O.M.G. half century fast approaching!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! feeling

Keith

[Izzy Madd]

Is it just me or does anyone else have problems getting acrylic paint to stay on the model. I understand that grease needs to be removed before painting. No problemo. But when it's been drying/curing for over a month and I come to "touch up" parts. And I end up with more missing paint stuck to my fingers than was on the model before I started is taking the wee wee. How are you spposed to hold the blooming thing if the paint stick more to me than the model.

 

Somebody please help.

 

What am I doing wrong.

 

And don't say holding it. Or I'll send the parrot around.

 

And she's not in a good mood since I showed her where to shove her crackers.

[clearway]

i always either prime wood before painting or thin down the first coat to let it sink into the wood a bit like stain to get it to stick.

Keith

[Izzy Madd]

Ahoy there,

 

Just a little snippet of info for anyone who wants it.

 

I've just learnt that if you need info about a Billing model. The best contact is not the Danish site as that's now defunct and running on auto. Or the English one

 

But here

 

agesofsail@gmail.com

 

As I've just been after a set of plans and they are sending me a set ASAP. And that's from an email sent last night. Not only useful but fast.

 

Hope this helps someone

[popeye the sailor]

Roger is a really good person.   I usually download the instruction sheets from either site

[Izzy Madd]

Roger is a really good person.   I usually download the instruction sheets from either site

Hi,

 

He's not just letting me have the instructions but a full set of plans which he's doing specially. So I'd say a great chap.

[Izzy Madd]

Ahoy there one and all.

 

Now I know I'm more than a loaf short of a picnic. And got more loose screws than a bucket of bolt.

 

But have I imagined it. Or what.

 

As a former cabinetmaker and all round wood butcher. I know that unle you like your wood with splits in it. In exterior conditions where it is likely to get some excess moisture on it. That unles there is no choice you only put ONE fixing in the plank.

 

I THINK I've read the same as regards ships decking. Which lets face it get a tad damp at times.

 

So why is it everyone is imitation at least two fixings. On each plank. As any decent plane jockey will know if you cut the wood the right way you only need one fixing. As all you are doing is stopping the plank from doming. If it's going to cup then you need to keelhaul the wood monkey and get one that know how to do it.

 

******So where has this double fixings idea come from?******

 

As the reference I recall was some sort of instructions on how to lay a deck on a full size ship. And I think it may have been a navy manual. And the fact that the size of caulking that is recreated is evidence that the planks were expected to swell by at least 15mm each. Which would mean either fixings fly all over the place or so many split planks there would be more caulking than planking. Even teak which is know for its water repealing properties swells. And with the width of the average ship your looking at a movement width wise of well over 600mm at a conservative estimate.

[clearway]

Good point izzy- and why do people only put fastenings on the end of the planks as any boat i have been on has had fastenings were the plank crosses every beam

[Greg the peg leg sailor]

G'day Izzy

Good point, I've been thinking about that as well.

You said you're loaf short at a picnic, after your very good point, I have to change it to a sandwich short at a picnic! LOL

[Izzy Madd]

Ahoy fellow squirrels,

 

Whilst I'm annoying half the crew of this global ship I might as well annoy some more.

 

Now don't take this wrong I'm not criticising in any way. Just trying to understand different lines of thought

 

My question is about the phrase "scratch built"

 

Now technically anyone who alters the model from the kit is then scratch building all be it more kit bashing. But it's just degrees. And I would like to know how do you decide if it's kit bashed or scratch built is it percentage. And if so is that by weight or volume...

 

Now my real question is. Surely scratch built is building a model from the plans only. That is I assume a given certainty. That and taxes and death. Only one of which I believe exists. And that's taxes...

 

But, and I salute those with the skills patience and imagination. There are those that will roll out lathes and drills etc. and make every part to scale. And great job they do then there are some who still work to the plans but make some bits fabricate others. And buy the best available that is right but pre made. An example that springs to mind would be belaying pins. Many are just right. Many are foul but some are right. So why make them. And then there are those who fabricate things even if there is a valid item available at a reasonable price.

 

Now the latter are true heroes sourcing things most of us don't even see. And at the other end of the scale the just as good who mix match and make.

 

But apart from down playing the latter with such a lowly title. Which there should be a better title like super scratch or what ever. But from my point of view why. Take the belaying pins. Say you need 100. Why sruggle to find a very clever substitute when there is either a perfectly good version out there or why not make them on a lathe. Both are still scratch built but hard for me to understand why. Other than because. Which I've used myself. But this is above and beyond. And what's the difference between using a gear wheel from a watch or buying one from a model shop or making one on a lathe. It still not from a prepreared kit and so is just as valid.

 

Now before I raise the drawbridge against the pitchfork waving villagers wanting to lynch me. Please explain why choose any of the methods beyond just literally scratch built of wooden parts or turning metal parts. And buying Better bits. Which is basic scratch built.

 

And if anyone's got this far without send death threats well done. And please tell me why?

Edited August 30, 2015 by Izzy Madd

[mtaylor]

Izzy,

 

The simple answer is... hmmm.... let re-phrase that... the MSW answer is:  if you make the keel and the bulkheads or frames (POB or POF), then it's scratch. If you use the kit supplied keel, frames/bulkheads, it's a bash no matter what you do to it.  At MSW, even after-market items, line, guns, blocks, etc. can be used.

 

Now, other sites and organizations have different rules and some are pretty complex.  Some say no after-market pieces like blocks, cannons, etc. on a scratch.  I don't know if any require you to plant the trees from seed and grow your own wood, though.

 

Basically, there's only two categories.. and that's purely for administrative separation.  Kit builders are the same cloth as scratch builders and vice versa.  We don't do "elitist" things and the staff put a stop to it pretty quick.  We're all about having some fun and being better builders.

 

As for why I'm scratching... I want something different than the kits.  And even what I'm choosing to scratch haven't been done much.  Come to think of it, the only other 1854 Constellation (I bashed the hell ouf the kit) is Jerry Todd's RC scratch build.   Ignore me.. I'm an oddball.  No desire to do a Vic or Connie, or any thing else mainstream. 

[Izzy Madd]

G'day Izzy

Good point, I've been thinking about that as well.

You said you're loaf short at a picnic, after your very good point, I have to change it to a sandwich short at a picnic! LOL

Goodonyamate

Greg

To be truthful I think or at least hope I'm a picnic short of a day out..

[clearway]

Hi Izzyi agree with Mark (mtaylor)- i am scratchbuilding a model of a 1927 built grab dredger which worked whitehaven harbour for over 70 years and remained coal fired to the end. I had to scratchbuild as no kit is available- however i still bought in ready made items like the handrail stanchions and engine room cowl vents. The anchor windlass was a "bashed caldercrat 1/48 kit, and the winch for the stern anchor was knocked together from several sources (including an 0 gauge loco kit) and some scratchbuilt items- really need to finish her one day- started it in 1998! If you google:- whitehaven harbour dredger clearway you will see loads of pics of the real thing on images.

Keith

[Izzy Madd]

While I'm on forced go slow on building. In case you might not have noticed it doesn't mean I'm not able to stick my oar in here.

Edited August 31, 2015 by Izzy Madd