Sultana by Bob the Builder - Model Shipways - First Wooden Ship Build

[Bob the Builder]

Started my 1st ship kit this weekend. The Sultana in 1:64 scale by Model Shipways.

 

This a solid hull kit, so I had some sanding and carving to do so that the supplied templates fit properly.

The carving was required on both the inside and outside of the bulwarks to achieve the correct scale thickness.

At an early stage, my "carving" turned into something more akin to gouging, so I turned to my xacto knife with a #11 blade

and actually found it easier than using my chisels, which I couldn't seem to get a sharp edge on, even after minutes

on the honing stone.

Note the repaired area in the front (sorry- still don't know my nautical terms)...I had already sanded the outside of the hull

up to my stopping point that I had marked, THEN I started carving the inside of the bulwarks to the required thickness. 

That is when I cracked the thin basswood in a couple of places.

At least the breaks were clean, so I salvaged the pieced, used thin super glue, and carefully and quickly put them back

in place.

I dared not try sanding the area yet, but it will be my next step now that the glue has had a day to dry.

 

Hopefully, my damage control will not show up later, as this hull will be painted. 

 

[Bob the Builder]

Several weeks ago, I picked up some 3M sanding supplies (for home and hobby) at Lowe's, and in my sandpaper pack was a bonus item to try --

 

I can't call it sandpaper, because it is not paper, but rather abrasive material on thin flexible plastic.  This is GREAT STUFF!

 

You can roll it, bend it, fold it, crease it for tight edges,... and you can do it over and over.

 

For fairing a solid hull, put the material in the palm of your hand, spread your fingers slightly, and the flexible material will sand exactly where you need it.

 

Very handy stuff -- thought you guys might be interested..   

[AON]

The front of the ship is called the pointy end according to my darling wife.

(the other end is the blunt end!)

 

I'll be watching so keep posting!

 

Alan

 

(Okay it is not fair to not tell... the bow (pointy) versus the stern (blunt) ... tons more to go and no I don't know most)

Edited June 16, 2015 by AON

[Beef Wellington]

Nice start Bob, mistakes seem to be a part of this process for everyone, the important thing is to keep moving on and getting comfortable with 'fixes'.  Best of luck, I'll be following along.

[Bob the Builder]

Good advice, Jason.

To me, a fix is problem solving, and I'm pretty good with that.  My buddies from the plastic side would tell you that I am the king of fixes.

Usually my problem is getting started on something I've never tackled before. I consider the possible approaches, and narrow those down

to what is fixable without starting over.  

[shihawk]

Good to see you got the build log going , makes it much easier to get advice if needed , Lookin good so far 

[Bob the Builder]

Thanks to Chuck Passaro's supreme practicum on this kit, I have no worries about finishing (maybe not museum quality) but respectable for a first build..

[Chuck Seiler]

Bob,

 

SULTANA is a great model. It is sufficiently basic so as not to bog you down, but includes all the stuff you will eventually have to learn; planking, rigging, swearing and throwing things. I don't recall if Chuck's practicum discusses planking the hull, I believe it does, I know the original kit instructions do not. I would strongly recommend planking the wale (the thick planking right around the waterline) and above the wale. This part is a lot easier than the area below the wale and makes for a very nice model. I did this while leaving the area below unplanked but painted a cream white color. I am very happy with it.

 

You can't go wrong following Chuck's practicum. I think you will enjoy the build.

[Bob the Builder]

I'm taking Chuck Seiler's advice, I'm gonna give the Sultana a good planking. I've sanded down the kit bulwarks, sanded the deck to fix the camber,

and procured all the lumber I need, plus a little extra.

Will have progress photos to post Monday...

 

Thank you for the inspiration, Chuck!

[Bob the Builder]

Made progress on the schooner this weekend - I planked and decked her with inspiration from Chuck Seiler and Chuck Passaro.

I practiced my trunnel making on the side planks, and will do the same for the deck now that the stain has dried enough to fiddle with.

I used Minwax Golden Oak for the color.

[Bob the Builder]

The volutes will be next (the curvy decorations where the cap rails break)  Chuck made his from Sculpey, which has to be baked.... I will use DAS air-dry clay, which I have experience with. The only drawback to air-dry clay is that it shrinks a bit when dry, so I'll make them about 1/16" larger than needed, then sculpt them down to size if I need to -- glue-fix them in place, and paint-blend into the cap rails.

[Bob the Builder]

I plan to make my rudder a fully functional piece, and using the technique from Chuck's practicum that I'm now so fond of, I'll make the gudgeons and pintles from a brass sheet I picked up last Friday. Not costly at all...and I'll have plenty of leftover (if I do it right the first time)

[Bob the Builder]

Using Chuck's advice once again, I painted the wales, trim, and fashion pieces off of the model for a neater job.

From the plastic hobby, I've used Tamiya Lacquer paints for years, and after wood is properly primed, the paint works just fine here too.

I used Tamiya Racing White for the hull color. It gives the schooner a slightly weathered look in my opinion.

The insides of the bulwarks are Tamiya Dull Red (not sure if historically accurate, but it looks right to my eye)

[shihawk]

Lookin good Bob , Great progress !!!

 

Boyd.

[Canute]

Nice tip on the Tamiya paints, Bob. The few remaining brick and mortar hobby shops out this way do stock it, along with Vallejo paints. Many of my old solvent paints are going away, so I'm doing more water based paints. Keep filling the bag of tricks, but gotta clean out some of the old stuff.

[Jparsley]

Tamiya paint never heard of it I've looked at Michael Hobby lobby and hobby town no one carries it or Vallejo Where can you get these

[Bob the Builder]

Tamiya paints are the best I've ever ever used - I pick up these up locally at Raleigh Hobby, or they can be ordered and shipped anywhere in the continental U.S. from Tower Hobbies. The spray cans designated with the "TS" prefix are synthetic lacquers...they dry fast, and sand easily.

I use these for 90% of my work. If you're using an airbrush, their bottle acrylic paints are designated with an "X" prefix for gloss colors, and "XF" for flat colors.

If you find a gloss color that's perfect for your need, they also have a flat base you can mix in to make it as flat as you want.

NOTE: Be sure to use an appropriate primer first though! I use Krylon spray primer w/ 10-minute dry time.

[Bob the Builder]

I know the Vallejo paints are stocked at Squadron Hobby in Texas, but I've never used them. I've heard a lot of good things though...

[Jparsley]

Thank you for your response bob I'll check out the paint

[Bob the Builder]

To describe the Tamiya Dull Red that I used for the inside of the bulwarks is like mixing 85% bright red and 15% rust, again for a slightly weathered look...

it's been difficult to see the exact red that other folks have used, since camera settings and lighting affect they way the color is represented in pictures.

[Jparsley]

I do believe this is the first solid hull build I've followed I believe I would be very uncomfortable carving into something Lord knows it wouldn't look like yours She is looking lovely Can't wait to see her grow up

[Chuck Seiler]

Bob,

 

The deck planking looks good. Some might say it is unrealistic because you don't have any butt-ends in your planking. In truth, there are none. If you look at the replica SULTANA, there are no butt ends on deck. Th eplanks are short enough that they can go single plank per strake.

 

Do you have any pics of the hull planking?

[Bob the Builder]

Chuck, I can take more pics of the side planking so you can see my trunnel work and butt-ends, but I have to find another photo resizing program --

my trusty program vanished with my last updates!

As for the deck planking, I fully intended to add trunnels and butt-ends there too after a final sanding, was just waiting for the stain to dry.

Now you've got me re-thinking about the butt-ends up on deck. (I really like the look, but if it's not accurate...?)

 

I knew I would have to make some compromises when I committed to ship-building with historic accuracy. In plastic, we say "It's your model,

make it like you want it", but this (to me) is different.

[Chuck Seiler]

It gets more interesting when you have a real live ship to look at.

 

 

[mtaylor]

I knew I would have to make some compromises when I committed to ship-building with historic accuracy. In plastic, we say "It's your model,

make it like you want it", but this (to me) is different.

 

Bob,

We say the same thing with wood.  Historically accurate is admirable, but being able to do that way 100% is tough.  It's all a compromise somewhere.

[Bob the Builder]

Well-said, Mark.

[Bob the Builder]

Here's my first attempt at trunnel-making and plank butts....

[mtaylor]

Looks pretty darn good from here.  I'm having a hard time believing this is your first ship.

[Chuck Seiler]

Bob,

 

    Looks pretty good. 

 

    One flaw I see is that you don't have the butt ends trunneled.  Since they necessarily fall on a frame, they should be trunneled.  I prefer using 2 nails on the ends and one everywhere else (see attached).  This protocol would vary from time period to time period and nation.  People smarter than I can tell you more on nailing patterns.

 

[Bob the Builder]

That's the kind of advice that will help me learn, Chuck!  Now that you point it out, it seems obvious the planks should appear to be fastened where they begin and end-- that's just good logic, and I missed it....but it will be fixed tonight.

Also, I was able to right-click on the diagram and save it so I can print it out and put it on my cork-board as a reminder. Great help -Thanks for taking your time to help me be better!