US Brig Niagara by mikiek - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship build

[Chuck]

I find it easier to construct the gratings first...then build the coamings around them.  This way you get a nice tight fit with them.  No open holes along the sides and certainly no spaces.  If you are also creating the grating with a camber as it should have,  then when you build the coaming around it, you will have an easier time matching it.  If after you are done the completed hatch is slightly larger or smaller than your plans it wont be noticeable yet you will have a really tight and beautifully made hatch.

 

 

 

[mikiek]

After seeing Chuck's pix, I see the error in my ways. I have a grate dropped into one of my coamings, but it was not possible to get the grate battens flush to the coaming pieces. The flush look is much better. This can't be accomplished by fitting a grate to a coaming (well maybe by blind luck).

 

As much as I am resisting the idea, I will start over. Even though what I have done is not overly noticeable. To me, things like grates and other deck pieces are where my eyes are drawn first when I observe a model ship. Even more so than rigging. Those features really need to "pop" at you. So they should be the best I can turn out. Now if I can just hurry the Postal Service up with more grates.

[jbshan]

Mike, there are a couple of ways to use the precut grating stock.  Some are more wasteful of material than others.

 

http://uvsmgshipmodelguild.wikispaces.com/Hatchways

[mikiek]

Joel - have you been holding out on us?    You are turning up more and more great write ups. It would be interesting to peruse the Sanborn Nautical Library. Lot's of good stuff I'm sure.

 

The MS grates you show from your Niagara kit don't look much like mine. On mine, the corners of the nubs are not squared well. Neither are the indentations. My instructions shows to either fit the strips in egg crate fashion or glue them edge to edge (this is the preferred method). I did the latter, and the result looks like a bunch of strips glued together - even with a lot of sanding the 'unsquareness' shows thru.

 

It's good to see some write ups on Lexington and I would love to see any other material you have regarding her. The 'Lex' is on my shelf.

[jbshan]

What I've written is mostly on that wiki website.  Start with the home button and just go browsing around.

 

http://uvsmgshipmodelguild.wikispaces.com/Hatchways

[mikiek]

The grates are off to a good start I believe. Here's where I was last nite on the first pass. The frames were boxwood 1/8" squares. This had come down from a 3/16" prototype but it still seemed a little over sized.

 

 

Fair, but lot's of room for improvement. This was an attempt to fit grate to frame. It fits nicely, but the grate is not positioned properly and any attempt to reduce the sides so it would sit right would have left a gap.

 

Soooo, rework.

 

 

The side pieces are 1/8" (tall)x3/32"(thick). The fore and aft are 3/16"x3/32". I like this thickness better. The skinny pieces will be glued to the side pieces for support of the grate. The fore and aft parts are taller because of the camber in the grate - higher in the middle (fore & aft) and lower on the sides. I am really loving the Byrne's table saw for doing things like the lap joints. The precision is remarkable.

 

 

Side pieces with grate support

 

 

Test fit. The camber is obvious now.

 

 

First pass at shaping the fore and aft pieces.

 

 

A little rounding of the edges and - ta-da!

 

 

Sitting on the deck but not glued. I'm trying to decide the finish. The plans call for the obnoxious fire engine red for the frames. I didn't see any notes regarding the grates. Personally I would like to use the Bright Cherry stain I used on the nibbing strake but I doubt that was the original color.

 

All the openings in the deck will be grates rather structures. I do have to decide on the Lazeret Hatch. The location on the deck is too close to the aft edge for me to cut it without risking collateral damage to the deck. I imagine I'll just glue a frame to the deck. I'll need to decide whether to cover it with a grate or a very low roof or sliding top.

 

I'm all out of grates for the moment but more is on the way from Syren. Maybe I'll work on fastening the deck down in the meantime.

 

Glad to get these parts underway.

 

 

 

[S.Coleman]

Hey those grates look...... great!! Very nice clean build.

[jbshan]

Those look good, Mike.

Instead of grating, a hatchway, especially a small one, could be closed by a solid cover made up of several planks nailed to a couple of cross pieces, or by the individual planks which could be lifted out.

[mikiek]

Thank you S.Coleman. I'm glad to have you following us.

 

Maybe like this Joel?

 

 

 

You're reading my mind this morning. I was going to experiment with adding a handle to each end of the lid. Maybe using some thin brass rod.

 

The lid idea might also work for the ladderway. A couple of planks running fore to aft on the port side of the opening with a ladder coming up on the starboard.

 

Any feedback on the color of the grates/frames. Did your research turn up anything regarding the use of red paint?

Edited April 9, 2016 by mikiek

[mikiek]

Went back to your Niagara paper and see that you did call for the red paint on the frames. Ah well, I guess that's what it will be.

[jbshan]

The cross piece would probably be underneath.  A ringbolt in the center of one end would be sufficient.  This would be called a scuttle.  It would lead to a small storeroom which would not be occupied except when someone went down to retrieve an item, so no real need for a grating.

[mikiek]

Boy, we have to get our ideas and our production coordinated 

 

 

Making the handles was interesting. I have read "back in the day"  if you didn't have brass strip you just smack some wire with a hammer and flatten it out - voila, strip. Did sort of the same with those handles where they are fixed to the plank top. I tried repeatedly to put some sort of rivet looking thing on the flat part to make it look like it is bolted down. That flat area is just too small and my rivet maker wasn't cooperating.

 

Among other things, I painted the grating frames today. The red doesn't look near as annoying as it does elsewhere. I finished the grates with a Natural stain. No added color, it just gives some depth to the color of the boxwood. Same as the deck.

 

 

 

Kept thinking about the rear hatch. Why is that called a Lazeret hatch? What is a Lazeret hatch?

 

" A lazaretto /ˌlæzəˈrɛtoʊ/ or lazaret (from Italian: lazzaretto [laddzaˈretto]) is a quarantine station for maritime travellers. Lazarets can be ships permanently at anchor, isolated islands, or mainland buildings. "

 

Need more?

 

" The name derives from the biblical story of "Lazarus". On the old square-rigged sailing ships it was located in the bow of the ship. The original purpose was to store the bodies of important passengers or crew who had died on the voyage, (lesser seamen would be buried at sea). It was a large locker obviously, and was situated at the bow in order that the stench of rotting flesh was blown away from the vessel rather than across the decks. (The wind cannot come from the front of the ship whilst sailing.) All that remains from these origins is that it is still generally the largest locker on a boat, and it's still known as the "Lazarette".

A lazarette is usually a storage locker used for gear or equipment a sailor or boatswain would use around the decks on a sailing vessel. "

 

It turns out that it is rather common to have a solid top rather than a grate here. Thus the term scuttle.

 

So being as how I love rework, I give you the Lazeret hatch complete with scuttle and ringbolt.

 

 

 

I don't know why, but for some reason I have been having the urge to bust into one of my other kits. Not for the purpose of shelving Niagara - not a chance. But the thought of working on some different wood is appealing. I need to watch myself. No room for 2 hulls on the workbench.

 

I also made a ladder for the ladderway hatch. Will try to tackle that tomorrow. Not a huge task but I am contemplating cutting out a chunk of bulkhead and keel that run under this opening. The whole thing would look kind of goofy if I don't.  Will also have to come up with a way to simulate a dark hole so the ladder just disappears into the dark. Should be interesting.

 

 

[jbshan]

Lazarette hatch or scuttle looks good, Mike.

A search for 'lazarette on a boat' leads to a storage space below decks at the stern of a boat.  It may have a scuttle on deck or perhaps a doorway if the entrance is below decks.

At least you should have had only to make a new cover.  My Lawrence/Niagara was on show at a local venue where a shuffling of models led to a fall and crash and loss of the grating for the forward-most hatch.  I just made a multi-plank cover for access to the forepeak, using the same coaming.  Strangely, the person responsible for the display keeps asking for models for future shows and doesn't understand my reluctance.

[mikiek]

Ouch!  You're a braver man than I.  Not sure I could "loan out" a model.  On display somewhere, yes, but I would want to be there the whole time. No one touches it but me. Even then I hear horror stories about transporting models to and from shows, displays, etc.

 

Actually the top was the same one as before , just flipped. Only problem was it was glued to the frame and didn't want to come off at first. I'll probably end up gluing it again. That is the type of part that I WILL end up losing. Besides, there is nothing to see underneath.

 

Last nite, I did get the Dremel with a grinder bit and took out a piece of the keel and bulkhead directly under the ladderway opening. Even without a frame, the ladder looks quite good there. I think it will be a nice touch. I just need to decide how to integrate the ladder into the frame. As has been suggested, I will likely put a few planks in the frame, probably at one side or the other. Then the ladder will take up the rest of the opening. I happened to glance at the plans and realized that the ladder has to end up at the aft side of the hatch. Having a climber exiting to an alley is not practical and exiting towards the bow would put them face to face with the capstan.

 

Joel - in your Niagara article you mentioned placing a binnacle rather than the captains skylight. Is that what you ended up with? If yes, did you make one? I will have to do something at that spot as I did drill a hole in the deck there in anticipation of cutting the footprint for the skylight. I have seen several model web sites that sell scale binnacles, however it's difficult to see what they look like.

 

So far I am really pleased with how the deck pieces turned out. Thanks to everyone for their ideas and support!!!

[jbshan]

Yes, binnacle.  It is basically a piece of furniture with sliding openings on the aft face so the tillerman can see the compass.  I didn't model the interior or make doors.  It would have no iron fastenings, only brass or wooden.  It would be lashed to brass eyebolts or ringbolts in the deck.  I have since made the whelps of the capstan larger.  I thought it looked kind of skinny.  Note the capstan is on an area of thicker planks.  Easy enough to do, even now with your deck laid.

One of the other model owners had to take his model out, going on vacation, IIRC, and wouldn't be home when the exhibition came down.  The club person and an employee of the venue were shuffling the remainder around when one of the big glass shelves slipped.  Mine was on top and slid into the side of the display case, dislodging some things and I never got the hatch grating back.

 

[jbshan]

I see my camera has shifted the colors a bit.  The red is an oxide red, like barn paint or red brick.  The sides are dark gray, no blueness involved.

[mikiek]

OK - I will add a binnacle to my list of deck items. Definitely not making a captains skylight.

 

As for today - SUCCESS!!

 

I think the kid nailed it today. The ladderway hatch came out..., well take a look.

 

First off, the ringbolt from yesterday - used a few more today. How do you drill a <1mm rod with a #75 bit? I was using the brass rings from the kit and #75 was as small as I could go and still make a big enough hole. But getting that hole started proved challenging. Ended up with a styrene rod and squeezed the drilling spot to flatten it out a little. Much easier! After inserting the ring you can squeeze it back into shape.

 

 

Please excuse the focus, but you get the idea.

 

 

I'm using this color paint a lot lately instead of blackening. I like the looks.

 

Back to the problem at hand - a ladder going down to the lower deck thru a hatch opening (ladderway). First problem, bulkhead N goes right across the opening. As does the keel. Solution - remove.

 

 

Next - the ladder has to end up on a deck. Problem - there is no lower deck on this build. Solution - make one. Problem - when you look into the ladderway hatch you can see other bulkheads. Solution - darken the entire area where the ladder lands.

 

 

 

 

 

Gives a whole new definition to the term false deck! My Evil Black strikes again. It is sooo black.

 

The rest is sort of a repeat of the grate/frames. I elected to go with solid planks as a covering. This helps hide the "below decks". Keep in mind none of this has been glued yet so alignment is a little off.

 

 

 

 

 

 

How about that for a rookie? I'm pumped! I think this was a nice addition and my first real "bash".

 

For those that have followed this log for a while, you may know I have been threatening to glue down my deck for some time now, and trying to do whatever is necessary first. As someone who has yet to plank a hull to those that have - would there be any benefit to planking the hull before installing the deck?

 

 

 

 

[Elijah]

I'm not sure on your question, but your evil black looks great! Nice bash!

[jbshan]

If you have access to the frame under the deck, when you get to planking the hull, you can turn things upside down and clamp to that framework.  Glue the deck in place and the only place you can 'grab' the hull for planking is the keel.

[mikiek]

Joel - did you mix that Red Oxide?

[scott larkins]

That worked out really well for you.

[jbshan]

Joel - did you mix that Red Oxide?

It's a railroad color, oxide red, from the old solvent-based Floquil™ line.  Presumably they still have it in acrylic, but any in that brickish boxcar red will probably do.

[mikiek]

That worked out really well for you.

Thank you Scott. It was an enjoyable effort.

 

 

It's a railroad color, oxide red, from the old solvent-based Floquil™ line.  Presumably they still have it in acrylic, but any in that brickish boxcar red will probably do.

 

I found some red oxides that seem to be popular with German tanks. Oddly, Tamiya doesn't make one or at least they don't call it that. Anyway, I am already too invested in the fire engine red at this point.

 

For all you Niagara builders - I came across the chock rails last night. Painted and ready to go, but stuffed away in a drawer. I know it needs some holes drilled for rigging but I cannot find the actual spacing measurements in the plans. The plans and instructions have a pic with some holes but the angle of the view makes it hard to guess exactly where they are. Does anyone have these? Does it really matter if they are exact?

[jbshan]

Walthers, the model train supplier, has several manufacturers of model paint.

[texxn5]

Hi Mike, I like the way you did the ladder that is a nice addition and looks very real. Nice job.

[mikiek]

Thanks John - it's good to see you back again.

[mikiek]

The hull planking process has officially started. I have taken a rather lax approach to the band method. Rather than trying to mark off everything before beginning, I am going to plank band A - not worrying about the others until I get there.

 

Band A is rather easy, 3/4" wide at each bulkhead (8 - 3/32" planks) so no real plank shaping to speak of. This is a real blessing as I am able to get the rest of my process down without that complication. I've done some bending at the bow and it looks like there will be some twisting involved towards the transom starting at the 4th strake.

 

I am also using cut planks butted together rather than a single strip for the entire strake. This has worked out very well as it is easy to make a small correction without having to tear off a whole strip.

 

I am finding I did a reasonable job when I originally faired the bulkheads, but when it gets down to laying planks there is some fine tuning to do. Lesson there - don't kill yourself trying for a perfect fairing right after gluing the frame together. You are going to have to clean it up down the road anyway. Also, the small planks make fairing easier (at least for me) as I only have to straighten out an area big enough for the next plank.

 

So I fair both the bulkhead and the edge of the previous strake. So far I am ending up with a nice smooth surface to lay the next plank. We'll see what happens at strake 4.

 

The other step I have been doing is to bevel the top inner edge of each plank. I was doing that with the bulwark planks. It seems to help the plank be flush with both the previous strake and the bulkhead surface, as those two surfaces are not perpendicular to each other.

 

Band B will be a little more challenging - narrowest at the bow, not quite as narrow at the stern. Band C looks like the crazy one.

 

I'll post some pix when I finish Band A

 

Thanks for reading!

[jbshan]

Some planking tips are here:

 

http://modelshipwrights.wikispaces.com/Planking+Tips

[mikiek]

One thing I forgot to ask last nite regarding the transom. The underside of the horn timbers will be planked. I believe they are called counter planks? These planks run 90 degrees to the keel. They will also intersect with the first few hull strakes.

 

How is that supposed to happen? Do the hull planks butt into the counter planks or vice versa?  It seems either way, the result will be an ugly joint.

[jbshan]

Mike, you've got basically no planking below the wale, either on the sides or the counter?  Just to see where to begin with my invaluable free advice.