H.M.S. Triton Cross Section by Paddy - Scale 1:48

[Paddy]

Today’s effort was laying out the limber strakes for receiving treenails. Went with the suggestion of one inch treenails and pulled the bamboo down to 0.020”. That’s the smallest treenails I’ve pulled to date. The Byrnes Model Machines draw plate is a jewel.  

 

 

 

 

[Boccherini]

The limber boards worked out well Paddy. I had the same problem with my garboard strake, left it at the size the plans indicated and put it in. It looks ok, but not really noticeable with all the other detail on the model drawing the eye

 

Regards,

Grant.

[Paddy]

Hi Grant,

 

Thanks for taking a look.

 

Working on making the garboard strake a narrower width. Even with that not getting the fit I would like. More fiddling and we'll see how it looks.

Have some curved scrapers on the way that should arrive today and maybe a help. If not, well, decided I wanted some on hand anyway.

 

Regards

[Paddy]

For the internal trennals I’ve decided to mark, drill and install them in each plank before the planks are installed within the hull. One of the things I’ve been concerned about is sanding the treenails once the planks have been installed and possibly damaging adjacent planks in the process. Also, for me at least, drilling the holes after the planks have been installed will be a bit cumbersome. So,those being my primary reasons, I made a template for locating the treenail pattern, punch the hole locations with my needle awl, then drilled the holes with a fence setup on the Dremel drill press. Seems to be working OK and I won’t be getting a twist in my knickers worrying about a buggered plank that is already installed. Whew…… lots of gas in the preceding. LOL.

 

[rafine]

Good idea Paddy. I had done something similar on some of the internal planks as well.

 

Bob

[Paddy]

Thanks Bob. I didn't know if it would be possible to use the Dremel  except on the floor futtocks and sure wasn't looking forward to all those holes

with a pin vice.   

[AntonyUK]

Hello Paddy.

Nice work on the treenails.

I also have done mine before installing the planks.

 

Regards Antony.

[Matrim]

Interesting approach. The two reasons for doing them on model is firstly to avoid minor differences in placement which could cause the holes to be out of line with each other. Secondly the treenails help hold the model together and as glue fades over time this can be important. Still if you are only using them cosmetically then it matters less.

 

Joss

[Paddy]

Thanks for everyone's input.

 

Joss, your point is well taken. As a compromise I'll be doing the treenails to the external planking into the frames and beams I do believe at this point.

Edited August 29, 2013 by Paddy

[Paddy]

First pre-treenailed planks laid up today.

 

Now I need to quit avoiding the garboard issue and get back to it!

 

[Pete38]

Those are looking rally nice....treenail are small enough not to distract from the rest of your great work....

[rafine]

That's looking really great Paddy. Very neat and precise.

 

Bob

[Paddy]

Pete and Bob,

Thanks very much for your comments.

[Paddy]

Garboard glued and clamped. With my struggle I decided to settle for a 1/48 scale 12 inch wide plank.

 

Edited August 31, 2013 by Paddy

[AntonyUK]

Hello Paddy.

Looking very nice. The Garboard on the full size ship would also have been a large chunk to fit.

With the two angles fitting into the keel. Also the angle and the Garboard twisting as it follows the frames.

It's also one of the special planks .. Hence having a name.

Must have been a nightmare with the tools they had then.

 

Regards Antony.

[marius]

Paddy you will always do a neater job than me because you have patience

Marius

[Paddy]

Antony,

Thanks for that. One thing I'm learning for sure with this project that well supports something Russ said some time back. "Always be thinking ahead".

If I could go back to the time I was making the keel I would have check the frame at the point of the garboard installation, checked the garboard width and then made an adjustment to the floor futtock curve so the two would have been compatible.  The importance of Russ's comment has sure been driven home.

 

Marius,

Now don't be so sure about that. My patience has been known to last a whole nanosecond at times.   But I do thank you for the thought.

[Paddy]

It’s time I started to think about the external planking patterns I would like to try. I’m struggling with some nomenclature here and things like where the diminishing strakes begin and how far down before we are into what’s termed bottom planking.  My search arguments don’t seem to be adequate in locating any discussion in the forums. So, I’ll try to ask what I’m thinking about here and see what you all may like to express. Careful with that!

 

If I think in terms of what’s above the wales and below maybe that will get me in the ballpark. Above the wales and maybe the wales too I think I would like to try Top and Butt Planking. If I understand correctly it maybe alright to use Top and Butt on the diminishing strakes (whatever they are) also and use parallel planks for the bottom planking up to the diminishing strakes……... that sound you hear is my head scratching. 

 

I’m trying not to get wrapped around the windlass but would like to be in the ballpark.  

 

I will depart now with a brown paper bag over my head.  

[Boccherini]

Paddy,

I used top and butt planking below the wales. The thickness of these strakes tapered down to the thickness of the normal planking below. Above the wales, the thickness tapered as the planks rose up to the sheer rail. I believe all the planking dimensions were from TFFM books. I don't explain myself very well sometimes, so I apologize if this is unclear. Pictures are better, I can send you a couple (or clutter up your log with them), to illustrate if you like.

 

Regards,

Grant.

[Paddy]

Paddy,

I used top and butt planking below the wales. The thickness of these strakes tapered down to the thickness of the normal planking below. Above the wales, the thickness tapered as the planks rose up to the sheer rail. I believe all the planking dimensions were from TFFM books. I don't explain myself very well sometimes, so I apologize if this is unclear. Pictures are better, I can send you a couple (or clutter up your log with them), to illustrate if you like.

 

Regards,

Grant.

Thanks very much Grant. I would be pleased if you would post them to my log. 

Edited September 5, 2013 by Paddy

[Boccherini]

Paddy,

hope this helps. I forgot to mention, the wales are also top & butt. Unfortunately, the joints were too tight so the stain and sealer have made them almost invisible.

 

 

Regards,

Grant.

[Paddy]

Grant,

Grand, thanks very,very much. Really like the look you achieved. You've stopped my twisting in the wind and I can continue with a plan now. Hope you don't mind but I would like to try and copy what you've done. 

 

I think I'll make up some stiff paper test strakes first, check my spacing and get a count on the parallel strakes needed up from the garboard, with the three sets of Top and Butt up to the Wales.

 

Need to mill some strake wood for the Wales now. Thinking possibly of using some walnut I have and staining with Minwax Ebony stain I have and see how that looks.  

 

Have been thinking it would be possible to rip the Top and Butt on the Byrnes Table Saw using a taper jig and ripping the strakes in two passes. So, with that thought in mind I ordered Jim's Rip Taper Jig a couple of days ago. I do love that jewel of a saw. Could go on and on about that but then I would be singing to the choir.

 

Thanks again Grant.

Edited September 8, 2013 by Paddy

[Boccherini]

Paddy,

the taper jig is the way to go. Sounds like you have it pretty well worked out, I found it is easiest to do the wales first, then the top & butt strakes and finally fill in with the standard planking. I look forward to seeing you bring it all together.

 

Regards,

Grant.

[Paddy]

Grant,

Thanks for the sequence. I'll follow your lead.

 

Regard,

Paddy

[Paddy]

Wood milling day today and thought you may like to see what I’m thinking about. From the top of the stack down is Walnut, Cherry, Yellowheart, and Boxwood on the bottom.

 

I’m going to cut the walnut for the wale planks in the Top and Butt pattern and then stain in Ebony to see how they will look. Above the wales I’m going to rip some parallel planks out of Yellow Heart to see how I like it. Below the wales will still be in cherry but plan on doing the first three strakes below the wales in the Top and Butt pattern also. Going to follow Grant’s patterns.

 

 

Learned that Yellow Heart will burn like Cherry if you crowd how much you take off in a pass. So, I take approximately 1/128 of an inch in a pass and run the conveyor in fast speed setting, which seems to work well as with the cherry. Next will be to rip a test plank and apply Danish Oil to see how it takes.

 

In the photo its difficult to see that the Boxwood is much lighter in colour and the Yellow Heart has more yellow.

 

 

P.S. Earlier I had said Top and Bottom......... dah!     Corrected to Top and Butt now. Man, some people....... LOL at myself.  

Edited September 8, 2013 by Paddy

[Matrim]

Nice wood colours 

[Paddy]

Joss,

Thanks for taking a look.

 

Installed treenails in the walnut and photographed with the yellow heart above and cherry below to have a comparison with the walnut before I apply the Minwax Ebony stain. I kind of like the colours and contrast with the walnut natural.

 

 

P.S. Those are bamboo treenails. It will be interesting to see how they take the stain.

Edited September 10, 2013 by Paddy

[Pete38]

That is looking nice, I also like the contrast. The bamboo should darken a little with the stain...

[Paddy]

Thanks Pete. I'll post a photo of the ebony stained walnut in comparison with the above. I do think the natural walnut has become my choice already.

[Paddy]

Top photo walnut natural and bottom photo walnut with Minwax Ebony stain applied.