Section Deck Between Gunbays by mikiek - FINISHED - Panart - 1:23

[mikiek]

I have had this kit for a few months - on the shelf. Niagara being my main effort to this point. Watching Bob a.k.a. Cobr@ work this kit got my interest up. I am also at a stage with Niagara that is painfully monotonous, so this will be a good distraction. I don't plan on adding every gory detail to this log. Bob has done a fantastic job of that. I will make notes on what happens along the way with this build.

 

One interesting thing already - Niagara's scale is 1:64. This kit is 1:23.  Parts are huge in comparison, notably the 1 1/2" long gun barrel on Niagara is about 5" here. The kit has a lot of pieces - buckets, cannonballs, etc. that could not be replicated at 1:64.

 

I will spare you the pix of the kit, but I will say the materials seem fairly good. The wood is well cut, brass is clean with no casting sludge on it. The one negative I have run into has to do with the laser cut parts. There are several places where the laser did not get all the way thru. Had the sheets been basswood this would be no big deal. Not sure what wood the ply sheets are but it's pretty hard and also 1/4" thick. Trying to get thru that with an Exacto has been an ordeal. I have been tempted to pull out the scroll saw as one place where the laser failed is some of the cannon carriage wheels, meaning a round cut.

 

Next note - this is probably no biggy for most of you but as this is my second build, it is my first with plans in a non-english format. So far not a real problem as I am not paying a lot of attention to them. Most steps are pretty obvious and a look at the pix in the instruction book ( each step is described in one or two words - like 'glue') help to determine what part to use.

 

I started putting together the frame. It was pretty flimsy at first, but Panart did a good job of providing braces/knees to beef the structure up. Each piece I add makes the whole thing a bit stronger.

 

Here's where I'm at tonite:

 

 

 

The gun deck is the 'ground level' deck in this build. There will also be a portion of the main deck above that. I am refraining from putting the some of the main deck supports/beams in yet. I can already see it's going to get tight trying to build the gun deck so any extra room to move hands around is a bonus.

 

 

 

Edited February 1, 2017 by mikiek

[Nirvana]

Mike,

Seems like the cross sections kits are on the hights right now.

Your start and being inspired by Cobr@, well I am taking the first seat on this build.

Having Cobr@ as a reference you can't go wrong.

This is looking good.

[Nirvana]

Just make sure you are sanding all the laser chard off!

[mikiek]

Nirvana - glad to have you along. I have been looking at the section kits for some time now, but nothing really grabbed me. I would call this one more of a chunk than a section. The level of detail is what attracted me. The whole layout is very busy.

 

Excellent point on the laser burns. Some of that will be planked over, however a good review and sanding now would be prudent as it is only going to get harder to do that as the build goes on.

[Nirvana]

Mike,

Even though the laser burns will be covered, many of us has experienced less contact with glue when charded.

Using a combo of CA (spot (like spot welding)) along with wood glue and your structure will be solid.

Clean up any wet spots from glue before setting!

Edited July 11, 2016 by Nirvana

[cobra1951]

 The one negative I have run into has to do with the laser cut parts. There are several places where the laser did not get all the way thru. Had the sheets been basswood this would be no big deal. Not sure what wood the ply sheets are but it's pretty hard and also 1/4" thick. Trying to get thru that with an Exacto has been an ordeal. I have been tempted to pull out the scroll saw as one place where the laser failed is some of the cannon carriage wheels, meaning a round cut.

 

 

:

 

 

Hi Mike

          As you know i am doing 2 of these kits and i had exactly the same problems with the laser cuts not going all the way through.    For straight parts this didn't matter as they need a good sanding to get all the soot off anyway.

As you point out there is a problem with the carriage wheels not being fully cut. Getting the small holes in the center of the wheels sorted is no big deal just use a 2mm drill. To get the outer rims of the wheels nicely round what i did was wait until i was ready to fit them to the axles, then i fitted the dowels into them a bit longer than needed then put the dowel in a drill and spun them while holding a sanding board against them, just don't go too far and make them too small

Good idea leaving the upper deck center support out wish i had thought of that with my big fat fingers

Edited July 11, 2016 by Cobr@

[mikiek]

It's good to have you guys on board for this! Any and all comments are welcome, be they positive or negative.

 

I will get after some sanding. I needed to get a few parts a little more flush and can do some of the chard at that time (this evening). Nirvana it didn't take this kid long to see that gluing with a combo of CA and white glue is the way to go. I use CA for my 'nails' and white between plank edges and the like.

 

Interesting for this build is the nails in the hull planks that appear to be left in rather than just for temporary holding. I like that look.

 

Cobr@, I am about to take one of your suggestions regarding support for the deck planks. Haven't decided whether to use a full sheet or just a few strategically placed beams. Besides the general support, I would like to cut deck planks rather than cutting the notch to simulate plank butts. The additional cross beams give me some extra places to tack down a plank butt.  I noticed you used a 6 plank spacing between butts. Was this a personal choice? I don't recall seeing anything about this in the plans.

 

Just a general question regarding this kit - for anyone in the know. I know this is not a particular ship, but does anyone have an idea as to the time period?

[cobra1951]

Cobr@, I am about to take one of your suggestions regarding support for the deck planks. Haven't decided whether to use a full sheet or just a few strategically placed beams. Besides the general support, I would like to cut deck planks rather than cutting the notch to simulate plank butts. The additional cross beams give me some extra places to tack down a plank butt.  I noticed you used a 6 plank spacing between butts. Was this a personal choice? I don't recall seeing anything about this in the plans.

 

Just a general question regarding this kit - for anyone in the know. I know this is not a particular ship, but does anyone have an idea as to the time period?

 

Kit era is early 1800's

Support under the deck planks can't be done in one sheet as the support pieces have to fit in between the frames and cross beams. also it was done in sections after the planking was laid as you have to allow for the curvature of the deck, so be careful when laying them or a lot of sanding will be needed to level each one with the next

You can then cover it all over with one piece afterwards if you want.

Butt shifts were my choice, made so it was evenly done with the frame you have to work with

For the butt shifts i just put a joint in plank one over the left side support beam as you look at it from the front

The next plank no joint

The next plank i put a joint above the middle support beam

The next plank no joint again

The next plank a joint above the left support beam

Then the next plank no joint

Then repeat across the deck

This worked out well for me as i wanted the joints placed over parts that would give them some support especially if you simulate the joints as per the manual which is what i did, just don't saw too deep

Edited July 11, 2016 by Cobr@

[Canute]

Mike nice start. I'll follow along, too.

[mikiek]

Hey Ken - welcome. Pull up a bucket or a powder box.

[mikiek]

I may be spending more time on this than I anticipated. At least for the moment. I am desperately struggling with gun tackles on my Niagara build. Almost 30 minutes trying to strop a 3mm hook to a 3/32" block. Had to put it away before something went airborn. Not sure if it was just a bad nite or I am really having some eye/hand issues. At any rate with 1:23 there is no problem handling parts. Yet!

 

Today on this guy was mostly sanding. While doing that I noticed that the additional 'frame' pieces that are glued in are a little out of alignment. A little odd as I had cut a couple of sticks to use as battens when I glued the frame pieces. I slid the frame pieces in until they came in contact with the batten so I would have expected them to all be flush. At least with each other. Will have to do a little faring before planking.

[Canute]

Mike, I've found that with aging eyes, I could only work on smaller scale projects (N-scale double hung and glazed window frames ) for about a half hour. I'd put that down and work on bigger scale projects. And I use an Optivisor & magnifier lights, with extra lighting. It's the small size of the stuff and the heightened concentration.  Of course, right now I'm building a 1/24 grist mill for our garden railroad.

[mikiek]

It's really disconcerting Ken. If you have followed my Niagara log I was cranking out quite a few gun tackles just a few weeks back while I was in experimentation mode. I had a decent process for stropping those hooks. The last 2 nights have been a disaster - hooks fall off, lines won't pull tight, etc.  I'm still a rookie in this hobby, but I know enough to know when to walk away for a while.

 

I am fortunate to have this kit as a diversion for times like this

[AntonyUK]

Hi Mike.

Nice to have another gun deck under construction.

As with most kits there are little tweets to be made.

It's also nice having Cobr@ on board.

You are off to a good start. It's a good idea not putting that centre beam in at this stage. You will need to get in there and work on the model.

 

Regards Antony.

Edited July 12, 2016 by AntonyUK

[mikiek]

Hello Antony - good to have you along. Cobr@s log was what pushed me to take this kit off the shelf. I feel like I am in good company with all you guys looking in.

 

I'm liking the build more and more. It allows for a level of detail that I just can't do on my Niagara build. So far, I'm pleased with the quality of the materials as well.

[donrobinson]

Great start Mike, looking forward to more

[mikiek]

Thanks for stopping by Don. I'm kinda going back & forth between this kit and Niagara. I'm seeing that progress (and log entries) are becoming less frequent. This is my first attempt at having 2 projects going on together, so I will have to learn to juggle more efficiently.

[mikiek]

About ready to do some deck planking. Per Cobr@s suggestion I picked up some black styrene to simulate caulking. I may go with a thinner sheet than Cobr@ used.

 

I have almost no experience with styrene. What is the best glue to use for styrene to wood?

[donrobinson]

I'm not too sure about the glue but I'm thinking ca.

[mikiek]

That's where I was leaning too Don. Otherwise epoxy. I don't think wood glue would bond well as styrene is not very porous.

[cobra1951]

About ready to do some deck planking. Per Cobr@s suggestion I picked up some black styrene to simulate caulking. I may go with a thinner sheet than Cobr@ used.

 

I have almost no experience with styrene. What is the best glue to use for styrene to wood?

 

I used CA Mike 

Edited July 13, 2016 by Cobr@

[mikiek]

Paul - I was planning on the styrene based on Cobr@s notes regarding the 0.5x2 strips. That said, I glossed right over the step in the instructions - the plan makes no mention of it. I do like the idea that the strips are already cut to fit.

 

So I dug them out and fit one between two deck planks. They are hardly visible, mostly due to the color. So I took out the old Marks-a-Lot and colored the strip black. This is a little more appealing. However, when it comes time to stain I would be a little nervous as to whether the black ink would get absorbed by the limewood planks.

 

So the decision may get down to how much of a caulk strip do I want? The 0,5 is not bad. I don't think I would go as wide as Cobr@ did. I have some 1.0 styrene which I find to be the most pleasing for my eye. The downside is having to cut the strips. But I know it won't run at stain time.

 

FWIW....

[cobra1951]

Hi Mike if you're going to use 1.0 styrene that will be 4 times wider than mine as I used 0.25

[puckotred]

Hello Mike,

I also used the supplied strips. Mine where dark enough to simulate nicely caulking. When I varnished the deck they darkened a tiny bit more

 

[cobra1951]

My supplied strips in both kits were very dark as well the only reason I did not use them was because I kept getting little splinters from them because the edges split easily

Edited July 14, 2016 by Cobr@

[WackoWolf]

To me it looks real nice, good sharp detail not hard on the eyes. Nice work.

[mikiek]

I thank you all for pointing out the kit supplied caulk strips. If you hadn't I would have breezed right by them. I'm still undecided as to what to use. Both the strips and the styrene have pros and cons. I will do a little more testing tonite and let you know what I come up with.

 

BTW - It's good to see even more builders of this kit jumping in to help. I appreciate all input and feedback!

[mikiek]

Tried a few things this evening, mostly dealing with the kit caulking strips. My gripe with them out of the box is I feel they are a bit too lite in color. I tried darkening a strip with a black Marks-a-Lot. I like the result but would be nervous applying stain to the deck planks. Would be afraid the black might leech into the limewood, which seems to be almost as porous as basswood. This pick shows the natural strip color and the strip blackened. I prefer the black but that's purely a personal preference.

 

 

Not sure if my answer is any safer, but I darkened a strip with some dark stain and tried that and found it acceptable. Here's a shot of the natural strips and some stained.

 

 

So I glued the stained strips to the edge of the deck planks and will let that dry before cutting the butt notches and installing.

 

I am afraid I may have to recant my claim about the wood being nicely cut. Many of the deck plank edges are not square and several are warped.

[cobra1951]

You seem to have got a bad batch of planking as both sets I had were fine

The reason the Limewood is just as porous as Basswood is because it's the same wood named differently depending on where you are.

Personally I don't like it for planking as it's too soft and marks way too easily, but sometimes you have to go with what you have. You are right that the styrene gives a better colour blend between the planks. I also found the styrene easier to fit to the plank too. I just put a small amount of CA along one edge and glued it to the styrene sheet then cut it out once it had dried

Edited July 15, 2016 by Cobr@

[puckotred]

I had 4 or 5 planks that where quite bad but fortunately I managed to either fit them with the bad side down or use them around the grating cutting away the worst parts. One was warped but I force glued it (almost) straight...