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Posted (edited)

I stock 3 types of glue:

 

- Polyvinylacrylate (PVA) glue. I stock two types - Titebond original (http://www.titebond.com.au/products/index.htm) and regular white PVA. I use Titebond the most. It works like regular PVA, but it sets much faster, stronger, and is waterproof. The downside is that it dries yellow - this is why I have the regular PVA in case I don't want it to dry yellow. 

- 2 part epoxy (both in slow curing and fast curing varieties). Excellent for joining dissimilar materials (e.g. metal to wood). I use the slow curing type if I have many parts I need to glue and I don't want to keep having to mix up a fresh batch. The downside is that if you apply it too thick, it will seep out and be almost impossible to clean up. If you apply too little, you won't get a good bond. 

 

- Cyanoacrylate (Superglue), and CA accelerant. I stock 2 types of CA - fast curing liquid, and fast curing gel - but I use the gel the most. The major downside of CA is it's low surface tension, which means it goes everywhere. CA gel alleviates this problem. CA gel can sometimes be slow to cure, which is why I use the accelerant spray. 

 

The brand I buy for both CA and epoxy is Bob Smith Industries: http://www.bsi-inc.com/hobby/hobby.html

 

Should be available in the USA. After all, it's made in the USA! 

Edited by KeithW

Regards, Keith

 

gallery_1526_572_501.jpg 2007 (completed): HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina  gallery_1526_579_484.jpg 2013 (completed): Viking Ship Drakkar - Amati  post-1526-0-02110200-1403452426.jpg 2014 (completed): HMS Bounty Launch - Model Shipways

post-1526-0-63099100-1404175751.jpg Current: HMS Royal William - Euromodel

Posted

Phil, I second Keith's recommendations. :dancetl6:

 

I usually use Titebond, but have used Elmer's wood glue. It works well, too. And Elmer's for white PVA glue.

For epoxies, JB Weld is available in many good hardware outlets.

The Bob Smith CAs are great, but a good fallback is Loctite, since many chain hardware stores carry that brand.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

Posted

Weldbond is a PVA adhesive.  It is pH 4.5 instead of pH 3.0 for Titebond II so it is 15 times less acidic.

Not a significant factor for wood to wood,  but possibly makes a difference in longevity with paper or natural fibers

: linen, cotton.

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Posted

Along with the 2 part epoxy and cyanoacrylate glues, I most often use the original formula of Titebond rather then the new formula Titebond. Why? Because it is not waterproof. Over the course of my model building career, I have learned I am prone to making mistakes from time to time. By using the original formula glue, I can take it back apart if I need to do so by slightly moistening the area with water. This has saved my projects many times.

Of course, there are times when a water resistant or waterproof glue is a must. 

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