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HM Bark Endeavour by REXY - Artesania Latina - scale 1:60 - 1768 as she appeared after refit before her scientific observation voyage


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This is my second proper model kit build (first i never took photos of ) and as the Endeavour was the ship that is credited with discovering my country i felt it was such a fitting build.

 

My first impressions of the kit is that wood is good quality, minimal if any bow to the plywood all nicely packaged in plastic wrap. The metal castings and various other parts are nice.

 

Now lets get onto the fun part and build it.

 

False keel trimmed out standing on my board.

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All frames positions marked on the False keel.

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All frames trimmed out and laid out next to the false keel.

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About half the frames fit over the false keel and into place nicely but the other half of the frames will need to be filed to fit over the false keel.

Edited by REXY
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well that took longer than i thought but i have finally finished filing the frames to sit nicely over the false keel, i ended up filing every frame as some were a bit tight and sat a bit out of square in relation to the false keel. i have noticed that in the two kits i have gotten the laser tends to cut with a slight angle not much but when the parts are a tight fit can cause the frames to sit off square. next step will be to start gluing the frames in and and planking the small sub decks, while i am on the subject of the decks i remember reading somewhere that the standard board length for the deck is 12 feet (full scale) please correct me if i am wrong but ill do some more research into that.

 

Edit : did some more research into the deck plank length and found that the planks were usually 20 to 25 feet long or 6 to 7.5 meters that means at 1:60 th scale planks are 100mm to 125mm long think ill go for 100mm. 

 

 

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Edited by REXY
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While i was removing the frames getting ready to start gluing i held my ruler down the face of the false keel and notice a small bow to it, do not know what causes this but my guess is the humidity change during shipping or that the big sheet it was cut from was slightly bowed. The way i fixed this was adding a third set of right angle brackets around the center of the false keel and resulted in most of the bow being gone there is still a small bow (like less than 1mm in the center) but the decks can easily get rid of this. After fixing the bow i started gluing the first 2 frames in place.

 

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Rexy,

 

Starts to take the form of a ship. Concerning the deck planks: Depending on how true to scale you want to be you might find out the distance between deck beams on the Endeavour. That will define the length of your planks. You could use 10cm though

 

To get rid of the deformation in the false keel, you could glue blocks of wood in between frames. What you did now will work as the hull will keep it into form

 

Cheers

Edited by cog
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Thanks for the input Cog, i did look into the deck beams and found some plans on it but i do not know if i want to go that far. Anyway i got some more frames glued in (its quite hot today so they are drying real fast) while waiting in between gluing of frames i started on one of the sub frames, i trimmed the boards needed to size clamped them all together and rubbed a 8B pencil down both edges, after that i made a little jig to add two little pencil marks simulating the fixing i think it turned out quite well considering that its only seen if looking down the hole. since this was just a small deck i did a butt joint every second board but the bigger decks will have a 3 or 4 butt stagger.

 

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Edited by REXY
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Well after another day of gluing i have finally finished, and all the frames are attached to the false keel, this includes the mast support blocks. from what i can tell the false keel looks nice and straight. While waiting for the glue to dry when i put in frames i worked on the fore, waist and aft decks which i think came up quite nice only problem is they are almost hidden and can only be seen if looking down the holes oh well better to do it right for piece of mid ( i am sure it would bug me). Next is to get the bow and stern filling blocks in place and maybe start the upper decks.

 

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Cheers Rexy.

Edited by REXY
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Captain Cook We have a problem.... (technically should be lieutenant )  :piratebo5:

 

 

Well this always seem to happen to me but after beveling all the frames so the decks sit nice and flat over them i dry fitted the forecastle  and waist decks which fit nice, with the back of the frames lining up with the edge of the deck so as to keep the profile when shaping the frames. Now this dam poop deck, it  has some fitment issues, one is that the deck is smaller than the frames so even after shaping them to the curve the will be 1.5 to 2 mm gap to the edge of the frame although the gunwales are 5 mm walnut so i can cover the gap by running them to the edge of the frames, may run them over the table saw to take out 1.5 mm by 2 mm rabbit (thickness of the deck) to make them sit on the frames and deck. Now the hard problem, the instructions for the boat show the stern filler block the same width as the deck mine is not and this seems to be a problem that a lot of people encounter just nobody shows how to remedy it, i can not sand the deck to taper cause from what i can see the transom piece needs the deck to be this width , i might need to add material to the filler block. some problem solving is in order. If anybody has any fixes or suggestions please leave your input.

 

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cheers Rexy

Edited by REXY
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Seems they sold you short ... Right, thinking in solutions:

The poop deck: Don't worry, when you lay your deck planking you'll fill it up, and you won't see it any more.

The stern filler. That's a different story. You might try to get something from the manufacturer by way of the  reseller, but that could take a long time. Alternatively, you could get yourself a block of balse and shape it to fit.

 

Just my two pennies

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Thanks for the feedback guys ,Hof i did look at your endeavour and you did not have the problem with stern filler i did some more research and i think i have found that the older kit has better filler pieces. Cog trying to get a new part is more hassle than it is worth, plus my father has a full workshop downstairs with any tool i could ever need to make a new piece. Now onto the fix, i was looking at the transom piece and noticed that filler was way smaller (about 4 mm each side) when it only needs to be two hull planks plus two veneer planks, it is far easier to modify the filler piece than trim the transom piece the shape 

. I glued two blocks of MDF to the sides and sanded them to the contours of the filler piece this should fix the issue but it will need to be shaped with all the frames, time will tell if this fixes the problem but anyway here is what it looks like now.

 

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Cheers Rexy.

Edited by REXY
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She has decks...  (would sound real funny in the New Zealand accent)

 

after marking and drilling every hole for the pins with a 0.75 mm drill bit on my drill press i have the forecastle waist and poop decks on as well as the sub decks in. i pulled the hull out of the cleats to check the false keel for bow and there was none, i will leave it in the cleats until a few planks are on so it does not move. next job is going to be planking the decks and as cog suggested i went out and got a dark silver marker, from a little test piece i did i looks real good. Here is few picks of the fitted decks.

 

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Cheers Rexy.

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Oh man, i never would have thought of that thanks Carl, i have some humbrol enamel but what colour, black comes to mind as it wants to look like a void i assume not much light got down there.

Edited by REXY
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Black, very dark brown ..

 

Oh, nearly forgot!

A happy, healthy and prosperous new year to you an your family!

 

Cheers

 

I forgot another thingy ... You could erect a bit of a wall between frames at those sbdeck spots, and give that on the inside the same colour as the one you put on the frames ..

Edited by cog
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Well after some procrastination, waiting for the grey felt rubbed on the edge of every plank to dry so it does not smudge and dealing with little fiddly pieces i have almost finished planking the poop deck. If i do say so myself it has come up quite well. Now while planking the step with Sapele i came up with a smart idea to use the ply that the fame came from to cut the veneer to the curve of the waist deck. anyway here is some pics of the progress. 

 

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Cheers Rexy.

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Well after a long time dealing with fiddly little planks i have finally finished planking all three decks they have come up quite nice but must resist the urge to seal them as more parts need to be glued down. next step is to paint the frames fore and aft of each of the hold decks and then start work on the gun wales. some pics of the finished decks.

 

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Cheers Rexy.

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Have not done much progress since last post and had to work but the fore and aft frames of each hole to the sub decks have been painted black to give the illusion of a dark area, they do look very nice thanks for the suggestion. The bow gunwales have also been glued in, next step is to bend some 5 x 5 mm walnut to shape. I think i may want to soak them in hot water, well here are some pics of her progress so far.

 

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Cheers Rexy.

Edited by REXY
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After some more debating about the gunwales and how they fit on the poop deck i have decided to fit them to make them line up with the top of the frames 1 frame is a little out but that is because of how ridiculous the bend of the walnut is. I have also fitted the waist deck gunwales, soaked and bent the extra bits for the forecastle deck well enough chatting here is some pictures.

 

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Cheers Rexy.

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All gunwales have been glued on and the instructions say to file them to lines given by the tops of the frames this means removing a fair amount of material from the waist deck ones. The instructions say to file them but using my small block plane is a far nicer and cleaner way of tapering them, they go down form 5 mm to around 2.5 mm but this is at the top and most of this gets tapered to the deck height so they will get wider. Well enough talking here is the obligatory pictures.

 

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Cheers Rexy.

Edited by REXY
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