Chaperon by Blighty - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Weathered and aged - My first build log

[leclaire]

Hi Len,

 

You may have had an issue with your cotton bales but I'll tell you one thing - your weathering sure is spot on. Your Chaperon looks well used, old and tired before it has even been launched. Very nice work. I'm afraid mine will turn out to be the "just slid down the ways" version.

 

Bob

[Blighty]

Thx Bob for your kind comments. I hope I don't end up regretting the tired old look.

[Tigersteve]

Bob is right. Your last photo tells the story of your success. You did such a great job there that it looks real and not a model.

Steve

[Blighty]

Thx Steve. 

[Blighty]

Try taking a look at the suppliers of accessories (in 1:48 scale) for the plastic military modelling diorama scene.

A quick look brings up oil barrels and much else, some nice clutter to enhance your model.

(No cotton bales that I have found yet!)

 

Ken

Hi Ken, Thx for the follow up. I checked out a military site and as you mention oil cans and buckets are available but the amount I was looking for works out cost prohibitive. I may just stick with boxes, they are basically offcuts of scrap wood.

 

The vinegar solution I'm using to stain the wood is working really well now. It has been sitting for approx a week and has taken a brown tinge colour, I'm applying it more and more.

[Kishmul]

Yep, the cost would be high, but a few items scattered about can enhance a model at a reasonable cost.

I am about to start a 1:24 scale model which includes a galley and dining saloon, visible if I leave the doors open and through the windows.

I can buy crockery and copper pots from 1:24 scale dolls' house suppliers, not particularly cheap, but I am sorely tempted!

I did see a cut-away model of the "Cutty Sark" once complete with cargo of tea, hundreds of boxes true to scale of which the maker was very proud. Another viewer pointed out that the maker could have reduced his workload by only creating those that we could see and placing them around blocks.

But then we frequently spend hour fashioning pieces that will never be seen.

Whatever, yours is a great build.

Edited January 30, 2017 by Kishmul

[JPAM]

joining this build log. it's looking fantastic. 

[Jack12477]

You can simulate bags of grain or bales of cotton using a modelers clay, such as Sculptey brand, shape it by hand to the size and shape desired, then wrap it in tissue, such as Kleenex brand, or gauze, such as Band-Aid brand. Use a 50-50 mixture of white glue and water with 1-2 drops of dish detergent (again "wet" water) to set the tissue/gauze in place. The tissue will give a finer weave while the gauze will give it a more coarse weave similar to burlap. Once set it can be brush or spray painted and weather to get the appearance desired.  A trip to your local pharmacy will get you a good supply at a reasonably cheap price. For this purpose I'd use the "no-name" brands.

 

I used this technique to make simulated folded tarps, sacks and other "bundles" for my 1:35 scale armor vehicles.

[Blighty]

Yep, the cost would be high, but a few items scattered about can enhance a model at a reasonable cost.

I am about to start a 1:24 scale model which includes a galley and dining saloon, visible if I leave the doors open and through the windows.

I can buy crockery and copper pots from 1:24 scale dolls' house suppliers, not particularly cheap, but I am sorely tempted!

I did see a cut-away model of the "Cutty Sark" once complete with cargo of tea, hundreds of boxes true to scale of which the maker was very proud. Another viewer pointed out that the maker could have reduced his workload by only creating those that we could see and placing them around blocks.

But then we frequently spend hour fashioning pieces that will never be seen.

Whatever, yours is a great build.

Once again, thx Ken. I am going to try to make as many cargo items as possible, mainly because it is kinda fun to do. I'm about to put the boier deck in place and glue it down so inside will not be accessible after that.l

I settled for the boxes and cut off broom handle slices to fill the visible openings, it has a reasonable effect if you look closely.

Good luck with your build, that's a great scale to work with for detailing.

[Blighty]

You can simulate bags of grain or bales of cotton using a modelers clay, such as Sculptey brand, shape it by hand to the size and shape desired, then wrap it in tissue, such as Kleenex brand, or gauze, such as Band-Aid brand. Use a 50-50 mixture of white glue and water with 1-2 drops of dish detergent (again "wet" water) to set the tissue/gauze in place. The tissue will give a finer weave while the gauze will give it a more coarse weave similar to burlap. Once set it can be brush or spray painted and weather to get the appearance desired.  A trip to your local pharmacy will get you a good supply at a reasonably cheap price. For this purpose I'd use the "no-name" brands.

 

I used this technique to make simulated folded tarps, sacks and other "bundles" for my 1:35 scale armor vehicles.

Jack, my savior, great idea I will try it out, I just replied to Kishmul that I would prefer to make my own cargo for the fun factor but failed at every attempt to date, this looks a gem. Sculptey! does that have to be baked or is it like Playdough?

Edited January 30, 2017 by Blighty

[Jack12477]

According to the packaging Sculpey (I spelled it wrong above) is baked in oven.  Can't remember the brand name I used prior to Sculpey but it did not need to be baked; just air dried. I have not used Playdough so can't comment on that one. You could also use blocks of balsa wood covered in fabric.  I think if you wander around a Michaels or Hobby Lobby (or the Canadian equivalent) you should be able to find a suitable clay at a cheap price - maybe an artist supply store (as in Fine Art artist) altho they tend to be pricey (at least down here they are).

 

Another source would be fabric (as in sewing) remnants cut into narrow strips then folded over many times, tied into bundles with Chuck's scale rope and glued with the 50-50 mixture.

 

Another technique I use, mostly in my woodcarving pieces, is to collect dead twig size branches that fall off your trees in your yard. The can be split into quarters so they look like split fire wood and stacked.  Most of the ones I use are about the diameter of my pinky finger. Leave the bark on them.  A sharp stiff Xacto blade will split them easily.

 

 

Glad I could help.

Edited January 30, 2017 by Jack12477

[Blighty]

Thx Jack, a few more great ideas, I will be employing some if not all these ideas when I am ready to dress the lower deck, I'm looking forward to playing with these methods.

This is such an enjoyable build, I'm learning new skills and tricks every day.

 

Len

[Blighty]

The boiler deck is now glued up, the only ware/weathering so far is at the top of the steps, I sanded the red oxide off to expose the wood. I've added the vertical support posts to starboard side and did a little weathering to the posts, more to do yet.

 

I moved the fencing that is shown hung on the boiler posts in the instructions to the cabin wall rear of the boiler. I did this purely for appearance, the detail of the boiler is now more exposed for viewing and the plain (little bit boring walls) are now adorned with the fence which adds a bit of interest. Spacers were added to rear surface of the fence to pull it away from the wall to make it show up better.

[Rossi46]

Looks great dad.

[Blighty]

Thx Em.

[Jack12477]

Shep Paine wrote a number of books on detailing models and building dioramas. While primarily aimed at the plastic modeler, specifically armor, his techniques are applicable to all forms of modeling. Kalmbach Publishing carries a lot of his books, they also publish Finescale Modeler magazine, mostly plastic, but the articles on weathering apply to wood as well. Used them as a reference myself for years and still do.

[Blighty]

Jack,

        To date, this forum and You Tube have been splendid sources for guidance, but I have noted this guy's name down just in case. Thx for the follow up.

 

Len

[Blighty]

I have a question regarding simulated glass. Should I or shouldn't I add glass? There is non included in the kit and I'm easy either way. However, if there is such a thing as 'the norm' I will likely follow that route. Trouble is I didn't even think about it on the lower level and that is now going to be difficult to add the glass now the deck above is glued down but I can remove the windows and door skin if need be.

 

Anyone have thoughts on this? Thx in advance.

 

Len................

 

To all following this log, thx.

Edited February 1, 2017 by Blighty

[Canute]

If the window panes are small, MicroScale Krystal Kleer. It's a liquid you run around the inside of your window. Put some on a toothpick, slide the pick around the window edges, slowly remove the toothpick and the liquid should fill the space. Practice before you do it on Chaperon.

[Blighty]

We've got to stop meeting like this, I think I'm off to the model shop today to pick up YOUR shopping list, thx Ken. Yet another gem.

 

Len

[Rossi46]

If the window panes are small, MicroScale Krystal Kleer. It's a liquid you run around the inside of your window. Put some on a toothpick, slide the pick around the window edges, slowly remove the toothpick and the liquid should fill the space. Practice before you do it on Chaperon.

Hey ken. How big of a space can this product be used on out or curiosity?

[Mike Dowling]

I would like to know about this stuff too.

By the way Blighty, have only just found your build log but will follow along with interest. You are taking a very different approach from the way I did my Chaperon which is fascinating to compare. Keep having fun!

[Canute]

A good hobby shop selling decal sheets most likely stocks the stuff. If you've built planes, trains or plastic ships and applied decals, it's in that area.

I've filled an opening of about 3/8 inch square. Much bigger and I'd use clear plastics or maybe microscope cover glass.

[Blighty]

I would like to know about this stuff too.

By the way Blighty, have only just found your build log but will follow along with interest. You are taking a very different approach from the way I did my Chaperon which is fascinating to compare. Keep having fun!

Hey Mike, I was hoping you got to read this log and come aboard, just to let you know I open your log almost daily for info and guidance, thx for your efforts in starting it in the first place................ and complements on your Chaperon, I bet she looks great on display in your 'pride of place'.

 

Len

Edited February 2, 2017 by Blighty

[Mike Dowling]

Hi Len and thank you for your very kind comments. You flatter me Sir. I have to say that I am quite pleased with the end results which I couldn't have achieved without help from Kurt. He will be distressed to know that mine is nicely gathering dust on a shelf in my work room. One consolation for you I guess is that a bit of dust will just help your aging process !!

 

I have just started the Oseberg, a Viking ship. Very, very different from Chaperon but then I like to ring the changes. I think it will be easier but then maybe not quite so much fun.

 

Your efforts so far are amazing and I look forward to watching your progress.

[Blighty]

Hi,

    Not to much going on right now worth taking pics of. I'm bending the radii of the walls on the boiler deck using the bend fixtures supplied with the kit, they work well, so  thought I'd give a status summary of my impressions to date.

I am not qualified to aim this at any of you experienced guys but I think I can offer some useful tips and/or advise to the first time builders or guys wondering whether to purchase this kit as their next model.

First off, this model is all but 3 feet long, I have a great final resting place for the Chaperon to sit, right on top of the TV surround, it will be about 5 feet off the ground, out of reach of the youngest of my Grandkids and a very pleasing spot to display. This model is very likely the largest I am likely to build purely due to display restrictions.

   I have a temporary work station in the kitchen, I use the island counter but we are redecorating the spare bedroom into a hobby room and I will be moving my gear into there, should be done in about a month. My current work surface is 30" x 42" and is more than enough room to work in a very scruffy manner as I do! I have lots of scrap offcuts of wood I use for kindling when we go camping but I cut small squares about 6" sq. to use for gluing, painting, cutting and trimming boat parts. You see, if I spill CA glue or enamel paint, or cut the worktop surface of the kitchen island, my boat, my tools,my clothes, my pillow and myself would find them selves on the front lawn, never to be allowed back in the house. That is not a good thing.

 

Difficulty:- I don't think the average DIY guy will have to much of a problem with this. Patience, a few off the shelf tools and flat work surface to work from is about all you need. The instructions are isometric views, easy to understand, there are a few details that require clarification but the internet and this forum are more than up to the task of providing adequate assistance if in need.

The detail level of the base kit I think is very acceptable, however if you want to upgrade or add detail it is a very rewarding and accommodating model to do so. I think there are plenty of pics on the net of this ship and if you look carefully you can see alternate layouts that have been employed to do different loads. I'm pretty sure this shipped every thing from live stock to cotton bales and timber too tourists.

One of the most pleasant parts of the build for me was doing the upgrades, giving it my own flavor was very time consuming, which I enjoy and have plenty of, and still more to come.

The use of very sharp knives and other tools are an obvious requirement so I would be reluctant to give this type of model as a gift to any of my grandkids until they are age appropriate.

 

Quality:-

           Fantastic, I have been very impressed with this kit, the laser cut parts were well done extremely accurate and fit beautifully with mating parts. There were just a couple of minor laser cutter path errors, hardly worth mentioning but I am being unbiased so I'll tell ya!

The boiler doors were mismatched and a couple of man doors were slightly out of line, I salvaged the man doors and cut new boiler doors. This is an absolute no brainer but now you know. The only other issue I have found is it looks like I will be a stick of 1/8th" square wood short, again nothing to worry about. The instructions do say that full length pieces need not be used for the landings on the walls for the boiler deck, I used full length and that is where a lot of wood was used up.

 

Recommend this or not?

                                     Absolutely, it is a great kit, I don't want to finish it though, I'm enjoying it very much, so if you are thinking about this one, go for it, you could do a lot worse.

Finally, doing a build log,I'm not sure what the % is of guys who do logs but I have really enjoyed doing this one. I have to be honest I often look at the amount of people who look in and it gives me a real boost to do my best and keep the interest going, so in danger of going on, thx for reading, following, contributing etc. I have a build to get back too.

 

Be pictorial updates in next couple of days.

 

Len

[leclaire]

Nice synopsis Len.

 

The only issue I have encountered with my Chaperon is the joining of the decks. I initially thought that sanding off the laser burn portions of the pieces would make a nice smooth joint but not so. I wanted to stain the decks rather than paint them which is what I have done on the main deck thinking that the obvious joint marks could be covered up with firewood, cargo, etc. However, I did not consider that the same issue would be found on the upper decks where cargo would not look very good. I can't go back since all the walls, boiler, etc are glued down tightly. I guess that is the price you pay for not thinking ahead. Otherwise, this is a great kit.

 

Bob

[Mike Dowling]

You are quite right Bob. The joining of those decks was awful. I would much have preferred simple butt joints. I spent ages trying to hide the joins with sanding, filler, more sanding etc. but whatever I did they still showed. Having said that you would need a keen eye to spot them on the finished boat. Len had the right idea in my opinion making the decks off boat. I did the same and it made things much easier.

 

I agree with Len's synopsis but I still think the basswood was dreadful and far too keen to warp but that is the challenge of building models I guess.

 

Looking forward to some more photos Len.

[Cathead]

Len, I can't tell you how many times knowing that I have an audience has kept me going, or pushed me to do a better job on something. Glad it's working that way for you.

[Blighty]

Hi Bob,

              You could plank the upper decks to hide the seam line.

Edited February 4, 2017 by Blighty