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Sultana by Overworked724 (Patrick) – FINISHED - Model Shipways – Scale 1:64 – Solid Hull – First Wooden Model Ship


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Tha lanyards between the deadeyes has been a challenge. After looking at my first two I realized my problem...consistency. 

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The loose end of the lanyard was difficult to tie down and still maintain good position and tension.  So my initial attempt seemed a bit assymetrical. So I redid them...

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 And voila.....!!!

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Moving on!!!:pirate41:

Edited by Overworked724

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Just a note. The book, Rigging Period Model Ships by Lennarth Petersson, is a great tool to help visualize how to properly set up deadeyes and their lanyards. At this scale, it’s hard to hold to complete historic accuracy, but gives you some ideas on how to tie them and still make them look reasonably accurate. 

 

One thing of interest, the top deadeyes are set up on the shrouds so as to reflect the opposite side. So the port and starboard deadeyes attaches to the shrouds are tied so they are mirror images of each other. 

 

Symmetry...always symmetry!  Makes me rethink everything. :cheers:

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And as soon as I posted the previous note, I realized that I had tied my top deadeyes to the shrouds correctly on both port and starboard.  But....the aft pair of deadeyes on the starboard side of the foredeck are rigged opposite from the leading pair (i.e. I accidentally rigged them as a port side pair)  Symmetry and the necessary mirroring between the two sides of the ship can be a real B*TCH sometimes!! 

 

:default_wallbash: 

 

Sigh...it's always something.  But damned if I'm redoing them.  It still looks decent and represent a good bit of work, and skill/knowledge obtained.  Imperfection accepted!!!  :piratetongueor4:

 

Moving on...again...

Edited by Overworked724

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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You need to get your little helper in your avatar to do a little less sleeping and a little more helping you out by pointing out where you have not done it like in the book!

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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2 hours ago, lmagna said:

You need to get your little helper in your avatar to do a little less sleeping and a little more helping you out by pointing out where you have not done it like in the book!

Right!!!!??  And you look in books and it seems so simple!!!  But you’re right about my avatar...that pic makes me want to take a 😴 nap. Puts my brain to sleep. 

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Looking at the way sheer poles are attached and finding some references. Most seem to show the rope attaching the pole to the shrouds cross-crossing as you look at them from the front. 

 

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So...I’ll give it a shot using black thread (slightly smaller gauge than the 0.008” Rope) and crossing in front. 

 

On a side note...the admiral noted last night during a movie that one of the candles she lit looks like a deadeye!  (I laughed so hard I coughed up my beer!)

 

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Moving on!!!

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Okay. So here is my attempt at the sheer poles. I’ve only just completed the port side foremast shroud sheer pole, but got the rhythm for how to do the others. 

EBC0E081-AEFF-4365-88F2-E79304107A7F.jpeg.bc6421e74a966fe816dd48e79d42bee9.jpeg

Long and slow slow stretch of work here...just plodding along!!!

 

:dancetl6:

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Foremast shrouds are up and sheer poles installed. The mainmast sheer poles are still pending but...Soon it will be ratline day!!

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In the process of installing the shrouds, I really messed up!  Knocked my bowsprit clean off!  But the gammoning stabilized it enough that I could simply glue it back without any noticeable damage...and was able to keep the same level of tension on the Bob-stay and bowsprit shrouds!  

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🍀 Lucky!!!!!  Moving on....cautiously. 

Edited by Overworked724

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Just noticed that pic above I posted which I dug up from the internet shows the top deadeyes mounted upside down!!

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Makes you wonder when or if they were ever mounted in such a way. 

 

🤔

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47 minutes ago, Overworked724 said:

Just noticed that pic above I posted which I dug up from the internet shows the top deadeyes mounted upside down!!

    And yet, the deadeye at the bottom is correct!  Maybe it's just him using artistic license.

Dave

“You’ve just got to know your limitations”  Dirty Harry

Current Builds:  Modified MS 1/8” scale Phantom, and modified plastic/wood hybrid of Aurora 1:87 scale whaling bark Wanderer.

Past Builds: (Done & sold) 1/8” scale A.J. Fisher 2 mast schooner Challenge, 1/6” scale scratch built whaler Wanderer w/ plans & fittings from A.J. Fisher, and numerous plastic kits including 1/8” scale Revell U.S.S. Constitution (twice), Cutty Sark, and Mayflower.

                  (Done & in dry dock) Modified 1/8” scale Revell U.S.S. Constitution w/ wooden deck and masting [too close encounter w/conc. floor in move]

Hope to get to builds: MS 3/16” scale Pride of Baltimore II,  MS 1/2” scale pinky schooner Glad Tidings,  a scratch build 3/16” scale  Phantom, and a scratch build 3/16" scale Denis Sullivan.

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Looking good Patrick! That is an interesting question concerning that drawing. And that's both really lucky and really unlucky about your bowsprit. :huh:

-Elijah

 

Current build(s):

Continental Gunboat Philadelphia by Model Shipways

https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/15753-continental-gunboat-philadelphia-by-elijah-model-shipways-124-scale/

 

Completed build(s):

Model Shipways Phantom

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?showtopic=12376

 

Member of:

The Nautical Research Guild

N.R.M.S.S. (Nautical Research and Model Ship Society)

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Mondays aren’t always bad!  Got the sheer poles in...it is a bit scary manhandling the shrouds and deadeyes. I always think something will snap off.  And yes...that fear is well founded. I’ve broken or snapped off bits and pieces here and there...including my entire bowsprit assembly. 

 

But I have to say, I’m pretty happy with this result!  Getting the sheer poles on represented a big milestone for me!!!  So, I’m going to bask in the glow a bit. 

 

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I find find myself really trying hard to focus on symmetry. Proof is in the pudding...not perfect by pretty good. 

 

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And yes...deadeyes come in uneven flavors too!  But I found many references where deadeyes were not even and had some horizontal asymmetry. 

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Not too shabby!  Moving  on!!!...to ratlins!

:pirate41:

 

 

Edited by Overworked724

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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giphy-5.gif.89d8713765b367a57b2d86a512119ef7.gif

 

BB-8 is celebrating too! ;):imNotWorthy:

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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Photos always magnify imperfections. 😣 I need to redo one tie on the sheer pole for the starboard side foremast shrouds. Thing looks like it’s hanging by a thread...pardon the pun. 🤣

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Made my own rigging pic tool based on a really good YouTube video on ratlins.

 

 

No way am I sticking my fat fingers into the rigging again...time to start thinking like a surgeon!!!  Thanks to David Kump!

 

note:  redid the tie on the sheer pole on the foremast starboard shroud. Muuuuch better. 

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Edited by Overworked724

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Ok. It’s been a long week and I’m ready to attack ratlins. However, I wanted to take my time with those over this weekend, so opted for a side project.  Making the Fore Stay!

 

Chuck’s practicum had him using 0.028” rope as was used for the shrouds. Well, I ran out and my alternate rope sucks. Besides, I checked against the 0.035” rope I plan to use for the anchors and I think the 0.018” rope will suit nicely and not overwhelm the look.  Not historically accurate...but it’s my ship and I’ve deviated so much, what is one more deviation!!!  

 

The thinner thread make it more difficult  to make the mouse...but I had a plan. I decided to use a toothpick!!!  My favorite material....

 

I chopped off the top of a tooth pick with a razor blade, drilled in a hole into the top of the now shorter toothpick, chopped the hollowed piece off which seems to match the look of the mouse, threaded it (the right direction) onto the rope, siezed the bullseye at the other end, wrapped the wooden mouse skeleton in black thread...taaadaaaaa!!!!

 

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My fore stay awaits. I’ll sieze the closed heart tomorrow. 

 

Moving on...to bed. 😁

Edited by Overworked724

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Ok. Word to those who may be doing this for the first time. The mouse needs to be threaded BEFORE you attach the close heart at the end of the Fore Stay!!! :default_wallbash:

 

I stupidly unthreaded the bullseye and then attached the heart. Yeah...I was not happy...had to rinse and repeat. In doing so, found a good length of 0.025” rope so decided to make the Fore Stay per Chuck’s recommendation since I needed to start over anyway. Also, since I knew I could, I rigged a mouse for the smaller 0.018” rope for the Inner Jib Stay. That’s actually still historically accurate, and seemed to be a reasonable deviation. 

 

Below are the pics for the Fore Stay (thicker and shorter) and Inner Jib Stay as they should look BEFORE you put them on the ship. And make sure you thread the bullseye to the mouse BEFORE you measure and attach the closed hearts. 

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You’ll note the closed heart for the Fore Stay is slightly larger than the heart for the Inner Jib Stay. This is because I had a few options for the hearts since I made extras. It seemed the slightly larger heart looked better (but maybe not completely historically accurate) on the thicker rope for the Fore Stay. 

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Okay...time wasting. Time to suck it up and jump into the ratlins!!! 

 

Damn the torpedoes!!!

:pirate41:

Edited by Overworked724

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Well...my first attempt at ratlins was a moderate success. I was actually afraid to start for fear of screwing up. But I made a couple decisions to give me some leeway. The video above helps!!  

 

First, I didn’t put CA on any knots until I was done with the entire shroud. That allows for last minute adjustment and you will need it. 

AAEC09E0-DB6D-4D5B-B3E4-4135ED2C5D51.thumb.jpeg.46afe6ad72336f244aa078305d0e4ff1.jpeg

Second, I found having a sheet of paper helps tremendously. 63621CAF-EFA4-4694-AD88-AF692758BB3B.thumb.jpeg.3e39b00fa8d1bef16291a3766d692157.jpeg

I now have a better feel for how the ratlin thread (too much or too little) between the shrouds can impact the finished shape of the shrouds once the ratlins are installed. You can’t notice without the paper background, but the outer shrouds actually bulge out very very slightly from the ratlin thread tensile strength pushing very slightly outward. Something I’ll be careful of for the next three shrouds. 

 

Moving on...

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Installed the Fore Stay and Inner Jib Stay. Nice result, I think. We shall see how the rest of the rigging goes!

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The shrouds are difficult. I did my best, but they do tend to pull out of alignment due to ratlin line tension.   But overall, not bad for my first shrouds!!!! 

 

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Moving on....!!!!

 

Edited by Overworked724

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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3 hours ago, thibaultron said:

Patrick;

You are probably the only one who will ever notice any distortion in the shrouds, they look great!

Hi Ron,

 

Many thanks!   You are absolutely right.  I see the errors, rather than the impression from a first time viewer.  The admiral was stunned at how nicely they turned out. 

 

But I did learn a lot on my first two shrouds...hoping the next two will turn out as nice.  One key lesson is that ratlins can’t be rushed. They really are eye magnets, so getting them right is both a cumbersome task, and a patience marathon. I can’t imagine how the folks who make fully rigged first rates manage this task without going bonkers!

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Experimented with making blocks with hooks. 😁

 

The brass pins in the kit are easily bent and shaped to form a nice hook With an eye. A bit of blackening and they turn out pretty decent. (SAND YOUR BRASS BEFORE BLACKENING!!!). Invest in a really small gauge wire bender...it makes making tiny hooks a breeze. 

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I used quilting thread (heavy gauge black nylon) to form the strop...experiments are fun...and made sure there was a friendly groove in the bottom of the block to allow room for the hook. Voilaaaa!!!

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Decided to go ahead and set up the catheads. A needle threader made things easy here...just moved very slow. Before threading the blocks, I double checked that the hooks comfortably fit into the ring on the anchors.

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Also, I double checked that I can easily thread the 0.035” rope I bought from Syren which I’ll use to rig the anchor into the haus holes...and it does...no problem.   So I can run my anchors after I’ve set up the other two stays which attach to the bullseyes on either side of the foremast. 

 

Moving on to the main mast shrouds!!!  Shipyard weekends are fun!!!

 

:cheers:

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Having fun with the anchors after the catheads led me in that direction. Decided I’ll forego the bouys that we’re typical (and mandatory in many cases) in those days. I can always add them later, like the jolly boat. 

 

Found a nice reference in Mondfled’s book on how hausers were tied to the anchor. 

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May not be perfectly historically accurate for this class of ship, but it gave me a good reference point and got me past the builder’s block!

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Decided I’d set one side up to see how it looked. I am using the cathead as one point of attachment and a knighthead for the flukes as the other point. I liked the end result. 

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Trying to get the hawser to lay down was fun. A couple of tiny touches of CA was the ticket...

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Out for the evening. It was a fun weekend!!!

 

Edited by Overworked724

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OK...it's spelled 'hawser'.  However, I think the appropriate term I should be using is 'anchor rope' or 'anchor cable'.  Not certain!  But it is a bit confusing since it comes out of a 'hawshole' in the ship's bow.    A hawser is a rope used to tow, secure, or moor a ship.  So...I'm not certain if this applies to anchor cables.

 

:huh:

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Just a fun pic.  Went to the shipyard with my coffee this morning as I was getting ready for work and saw the morning sun lighting up the bow of my ship model. 

 

Was so so relaxing....ahhhh...Java!!!

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Moving on!

Edited by Overworked724

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Anchors are on!  Don’t care about historical accuracy!  I love the look!!!

:dancetl6:

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Moving on to main mast ratlins!!!

 

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Even got the sun to peek in! Seems like no one can resist looking at good work!:D

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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4 hours ago, lmagna said:

Even got the sun to peek in! Seems like no one can resist looking at good work!:D

Hehe!  Well, I’m out of the country for business next week, so maybe I’m starting to miss the shipyard in advance!  

 

And thanks for for the kind words, Lou!  It’s certainly been a learning experience!

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