US Brig Niagara by Tom E - Model Shipways - 1:64 Scale

[Tom E]

Evening, 

This past Friday I passed my Certification exams for work!! Months of studying paid off in the end, did really well.

That means I can continue to work!! 

 

To celebrate passing my exams, I splurged and placed an order with Syren Co.

Think I got the last 2 packages of 3mm hooks. Plus a selection of rope of different sizes to rig the guns with.

Bought extras of rope, just to have on hand. Also threw in a bag of 3/16 single and triple blocks. 
Just bought a few of the blocks that I will eventually need for the entire build.

This order was just a taste!

 

With exams behind me, took care of all chores on Saturday, and got some great build time in this weekend.

I haven't left my house in 48 hours!

 

As mentioned in a prior post I've started marking and carving my Fore mast first.

The dowel stock that came with the kit was surprisingly straight. Except for one end of one of the dowels, I'll avoid that end.

 

Mind you, this will be all by hand. I don't own a lathe, mill, or any larger power tools just yet.

 

 

As you can see below, as I was measuring things out and couldn't resist a "dry fit" on the masts.

Its somewhat representative of the final height of the ship.....somewhat.

She's a big one!!

 

 

Below is my very first cut mast.

I used a Dremel and Exacto to whittle it down.

With some appropriate sanding to the insert and I should be able to control the final angle of the mast.

 

Well, It sounds good in my head!

 

Surprisingly it fits really well.

Snug with little side to side play, and she's straight!

 

A larger view.

Obviously this is just playing around and the dowel will be appropriately cut to final dimensions for a Fore Mast.

 

Meanwhile, Old Man Winter continues to batter outside.

Below was last Wednesday night. We received about 10 inches.

 

Signs of Spring are around. Its a lot brighter when I get out of work at 5pm.

Toasty warm in the Shipyard tho!!!!

As much as I love Winter...........I'm ready for some baseball!!!

 

 

Stay warm,

Tom E 

 

[mikiek]

It's always fun when you can put in some major part like that - even if it isn't finished and/or the boat isn't ready for it. It can really change the complexion. Wait till you get the whole bowsprit done and slip that in for a test. Hope your workbench is bigger than mine. Whereas most install the bowsprit first, I did it last for for just that reason. Space got tight.

 

You've probably heard this before but do as much rigging as you possibly can off the boat. You should be able to get at least one end of all the standing rig installed. It'll look like a big tangled mess but will be worth it. You can make a stand for your masts with a piece of 1'x6' or even a 2'x4'. Drill holes for each spar in your masts - main, top, top gallant, top gallant royal. Don't put them together permanently until you are ready to put it all on the boat. That way you can keep them low and don't have to work with your arms at head level.

 

Keep it up Tom.

[Jim Rogers]

She is looking real good Tom. I love her lines and your build has inspired me to add this to my ever growing pile. Keep up the good work

[Derek C]

Tom she is looking real good ,your doing a fine job .

 

[Tom E]

Evening,

 

Earlier this week I placed my first order from the Syren Co.

 

All I can say is WOW!!!!!!!

I'll take the Pepsi Challenge any day with this product!

 

It will be a joy to work with these.

 

Can you tell which blocks came with the kit?

 

 

The color of the rope is awesome.

It looks weathered.

 

 

I suppose I can save the gold stuff that came with the kit for next years Christmas tree.

 

In all seriousness, I will hold onto all replaced parts.

Never know when and where you, or someone else, might need something.

 

 

 

This will only be the first of many orders with Syren.

 

Tom E 

 

[mikiek]

Chuck's products will add a lot to your build. I did use the kit rope in a couple of places, mostly for long runs right at the mast. Inside a lot of the other rigging. The MS deadeyes were not bad. I would suggest using them as long as the 3 holes look pretty even. You'll likely paint those anyway.

 

I'll wager you really like the looks of your gun tackles with the rope & blocks. I felt like that was the best detail on my build.

 

My only suggestion to you is when you begin to use them keep close tabs on how many you are about to use and how many that will leave you. There's nothing worse than being a few short and having to wait for another order. Inventory control!

 

Have fun Tom.....

[JesseLee]

You are going to love using Chuck's rope. It is the best rope I've ever seen.

 

Jesse

[Tom E]

Evening,

 

IT HAS BEGUN.....

 

I have started planking the hull!

I have this recurring dream where I glue all my fingers to the boat and while trying to remove them destroy the boat!

With bits of wood still stuck to my fingers I wake up.......

 

This ship is going to get some skin.

Nervous as hell!!!!!

Done the tick strips, measured, re-measured.

Still don't have any Proportional Dividers. There on the list of "things to buy" but not too high up on that list right now.

 

It's heating season, oil bill gets highest priority.

 

I will follow the belts tho.

 

Anywho...

 

In prior posts I mentioned I would plank the hull with cut planks, not single.

The first few planks, I left them whole.

It was easy, some curve but not bad. 

Allowed me to get my beak wet when it comes to planking a large hull.

I'll try and get belt A done this weekend........try!

 

 

The normal planking hardware.

Who ever thought of the clip method should be made a Saint!

It's simplicity is staggering.

 

Using 1/16x3/32 for belts A and B, per the plans.

I notice the Parts List shows 1/16x3/16 for belts C and D. 

Am I reading this right? Is there a size shift?

 

 

Its because of this build that I will always use extra filler blocks in all future builds.

The extra bite really helps.

 

 

She seems to have a good flow.

Some glue stains, but not too bad. Nothing a good sanding wont fix.

 

I ended up getting half of belt A on both sides on.

And I was shooting for one full belt both sides! HA! 

 

I stopped here deliberately. There are some curves ahead.

I'll let what I did get done sit for a while and firm up. I'll tackle some steaming and bending some time this week.

 

 

Clamps!

 

Mike,

I took your advice about paint and looked at what I had first before buying anything.

I have been using the Model Expo Niagara paint set for the entire build.

I've seen others use it as well. In those other builds the "Yellow" they supplied was always too bright.

 

Below, the bottle on the right is what came with the ME Niagara paint set.

No where near as bright as I've seen in other builds.

Its like a dark mustard.

For comparison I had a bottle of Model Masters Insignia Yellow.

 

Is this a change from the manufacturer?

 

I feel like the Model Expo paint needs a few drops of the Insignia Yellow just to tone it up a smidge.

 

Am I looking at this right?

 

 

Tom E 

 

Edited February 19, 2018 by Tom E

[Jim Rogers]

Tom I agree that MS hull yellow looks more like a wood tan. I think I would tone down the testers a tad and use it. Your build is looking great by the way.

[Tom E]

Thanks Jim!

 

I agree, I'm gonna mix the two and should give just the right color.

 

Its funny, I'm looking all over the internet for the perfect yellow.

Was looking at weird "Milk" paints.

 

Had what I needed the whole time!

 

Tom E 

 

[mikiek]

Tom - I mixed something I call Dijon Yellow. And it truly matches the color of Grey Poupon. I went the opposite direction - started with Buff and yellowed it up some. With a little white & brown for seasoning. When mixing any paint do one of 2 things - make more than you could possibly need or make dang sure you mix drop by drop and write down the recipe so you can reproduce it.

 

After you finish A I would suggest the garboard next. These are kind of tricky and are typically a wider plank then the rest. Some people will also use the same width for the plank right above it, hence the possible need for different widths for regular planking. There are a few guidelines you can follow for the garboard that I can pass on when you are ready. If the garboard is not laid correctly it will have a negative impact on the rest of your job - especially at the bow.

 

Don't know how much tapering at the bow & stern you have done yet, but don't wait more than a couple of strakes the start. That will keep you from having to make planks with toothpick ends or doing a lot of spiling later on.

 

I understand your thoughts on the dividers. You should really spend the money on a good one when you are ready, so do that when you can afford to drop a few bucks. The one I use are now priced around $125 on Amazon. That said, they really can eliminate some of the questions you are asking. You can recalculate bands in the middle of planking, and they will tell you how wide planks should be. After putting in the garboard and a few planks above it, I was partially done with band C and decided to make 1 band out of the remaining space. Dividers made that a simple matter.

 

You are about to hit the nastiest part of the job. Getting those sticks running down the side of the hull and then turned 90 degrees to cover the transom is challenging. We all soak planks and then bend them. What worked well for me at the transom was soaking them and then putting a twist in them. I used two vises, clamped the wet stick in one, twisted the other end (1/2 twist for most, full twist for 1) and put that in the other vise. Then heat it or let it dry naturally. If you decide to do that be aware that one side of the hull needs a clockwise twist the other side needs counter clockwise. I don't remember which was which but You should see what I'm talking about.

 

Have fun.........

[Tom E]

Evening, 

 

Very quiet weekend in New Hampshire. Fresh coat of snow today, nothing too bad tho.

With most chores done, and the house quiet, time to head to the Shipyard.

 

A beautiful sunrise, hot cup of coffee, and spent the rest of the day building.

Only intermittent laundry interrupting my joy! 

 

Planking continues.

I'm in the area where the planks make a heck of a twist to lay flat on the transom.

I'm being very slow and deliberate with this area.

 

They get a good soak.

I've read a zillion different theories about soaking wood. Add bleach, don't add bleach.

 

I've done some planking in the past, limited as it may be.

I've had great results when I just let them soak for at least half an hour in hot water.

Even that seems too much, they come out kinda spongy, but workable.

 

When damp, there laid out on the hull and clamped.

The plank heater makes a few runs and then re-clamp.

It then dries for as long as possible, usually overnight, on the hull.

 

I'll "time" my build sessions so that the last thing I do is form and clamp the next days planks.

Its slow, but it works.

 

I think its working well.

Admittedly, I know I haven't shaped/tapered the ends of the planks well.

That will show up eventually.

With each and every plank I am learning something.

 

Adapt and adjust.

 

I'm still using whole planks.

I would like to get belt A done with nothing but whole planks. Then I'll switch to cut planks.

 

Once Belt A is done, I will lay the Garboard strake, before moving onto Belt B.

 

Mike, you weren't kidding when you said a lot depends on that Garboard plank!

 

While planking continues, side projects move forward.

I have my Fore mast cut to length and is marked for carving.

 

Working on it now as I write this update!

 

I gave my self some "extra" wood above the Cap so I could work my way down.

You can see it marked below.

 

Once shaped, It will get a coat of sanding sealer, then primed.

I have the "Buff" paint from the ME paint set that will be its final coat.

 

Well, It all works out in my head!

Tom E 

 

 

[Jim Rogers]

Planking is looking real good Tom.

[Tom E]

Thanks Jim,

 

I'm learning as I go. 

I've heard the saying "treat each plank as a minor victory", or something like that.

I like to think I'm doing that but its every 2 planks is a victory.

 

I need to stop dilly dallying and get serious about some color for this ship.

Or wait until after the hull is planked?........I don't think I can wait!

My gunports are technically ready for paint. If I don't do it soon, it will definitely be before I lay a deck down. Which is next after the hull is planked.

 

Tom E 

[mikiek]

Looking good Tom. The only suggestion I would make is to start tapering the ends. If you don't get on that soon, you will get a serious lesson on stealers & spiling towards the finish.

 

One version of your saying - Treat every plank as it's own project.

[Jim Rogers]

Need to paint those gun ports now.

 

[Derek C]

Looks real good bud , but I agree with mike start tapering those edges. Better a bit now than a Ton later .

[Tom E]

Morning,

A beautiful Sunday, a quiet house.......heading back to the Shipyard!

 

Thought I would share an update, I have been busy and want to get back at it!

I'm feeling motivated!

A lot going on right now, below is a small update.

 

Beside planking, the fore mast has been shaped, started the Foremast Top, started priming the Gunports, guns always continue......

SO much going on...I love it!

 

Sorry for the fuzzy pics on the Fore mast.

No professional photographer here! 

 

 

I'm happy with my Fore mast, but shaping will continue.

Once the rough shape is there, it will get a better shape as I sand in-between coats of sealer.

Only 2 light coats, bring the grain up, then smooth it down.

I know all this work will just get covered over by the final color of the mast, but in my little brain, every little extra helps.

 

If its only in my mind!  I know, its weird......my little "build" goblins running amuck! 

 

 

When I was forming the mast I left myself a little extra wood at the top.

Made it easy when forming the tenon. Once the rough shape was there, I slowly brought it down the its final shape.

Worked well. 

There is the Octagon on the bottom of the mast.

But its darn near impossible to get on a pic.

 

Below is the best pic I can get of the Octagon area.

 

Like I said earlier, the workbench has been busy.

I've got masts, guns, whatnot laying all about!

Constant cup of tea or coffee helps!

Although admittedly, I took a long break to watch the Boston Bruins play the Montreal Canadiens last night.

 

Great game, Bruins won!

They are looking good and should make some noise in the playoffs.

I'm not saying nothin about a Stanley Cup just yet!

 

Planking continues, I should have an update on that later today.

I've heeded everyone's advise and tapering is now a huge part of every plank. I knew I wasn't tapering enough from the beginning.

 

That's ok.

Adapt and adjust.

 

Time out for a great homemade breakfast of bacon, egg and cheese croissants!

Then college basketball on the TV and back to the Shipyard!

 

Tom E 

 

[mikiek]

Tom - as you begin your collection of spars you will need somewhere to put them. Also a place to work on them as you start to rig them, add the tops, etc. I used a 1"x6" maybe 15" - 18" long. Drill holes in it, about the diameter of the various spars. This was the first one, the second one included holes for the bowsprit and all the yards.

[Tom E]

I'm stealing that one Mike!

As of right now, the Foremast is in a 4" DeWalt clamp. I imagine with so many spars, yards, arms....everything, it can become a logistical nightmare.

I'm self confessed OCD........when it comes to modeling. Or at least try to be with my limited skills.

Out of place, and it bugs me to no end.

 

Its an organizer and build board, all in one. 

 

Tom E 

[mikiek]

Have at it Tom. Where it really saved me was with all the cleats and stops on the spars. Left in a pile those were always breaking off.

[Tom E]

Morning,

 

Another quiet Sunday morning. With a cup of coffee (and doughnut!) in hand, the workshop beckons.

Chores are done, so should be a good day.

Has been slow as of late. Seems if I'm not at work, I'm shoveling snow.

2 Nor'easters in 2 weeks with a 3rd in the forecast for Tuesday. Each one of these storms has brought 18" of snow each time.

Spring cant show up quick enough.

 

Anywho....

 

The planking continues. I wont bore with too many pics of that.

Belt A is done, the Garboard plank/belt D will be done next.

My planking will meet/finish in the middle, or somewhere in that area.

 

 

 

I have started the process of painting the gunports.

Starts with a coating of primer.

I do have masking tape on hand. A lot will be free hand, its what I'm best at, it's all I know. 

 

 

Everything is ready to go.

Should have some color to her soon.

The Foremast got a coat of primer as well.

 

 

With the Foremast coming along, thought I would start fiddling with the Foremast Top.

Man!     This thing is fragile!

 

Everything lines up well, but you just look at it wrong and one of the thin strips of wood will snap!

 

 

 

Put in the press for a while to dry.

 

 

Not too bad!

 

I may line the outer edge of it with some spare brass strip. It looks like it will flake apart when I drill the holes for the Futtock Shrouds.

I have seen a lot of Niagara builders do this, not my idea. 

It will eventually get primed, then a coating of Hull Spar Black.

 

I just had to throw in the below 2 pics.

Winter ain't done yet!

 

This was the site that awaited me leaving for work last Thursday.

Solid 16-18" of snow. 

Had to shovel out the bed of the truck. Way too much weight on the leaf springs!

I've popped springs from leaving too much snow!

Cost me $600.

I worked more that day cleaning my truck off than I did at work!

 

It still has it's pretty moments.

 

 

Tom E 

 

[mikiek]

Ha - had to run the AC unit in my shop this weekend.

 

Band A looks good Tom. A suggestion for continuing. Do your garboard as planned and the next strake above it. Don't do anymore than that for D. Then start your B and work down.  Like most of us you will likely have some adjustments to make when you are finishing up. If you do those in D they will be somewhat out of sight. If you have to make them in B or C they will be more obvious.

 

Regarding the tops, check my log, I put a brass strip around the edge along with some faux bolt heads. I liked it. Warning - it did get knocked off quite a few times while working with the top. Suggestion - get one ready to go but don't put it on until later.

 

If you think working with that top piece is bad, I am also building a balsa airplane right now. 1/16" square strips for the framing of the fuselage, wings, etc.  Gives me a new appreciation for basswood.

[Tom E]

Thanks Mike, 

 

I see it now, I want my planks to meet towards the bottom.

Hide the adjustments.

 

I hear ya about that balsa wood. I have some in my wood pile.

I know I've grabbed some when I can pinch it flat with my fingers.

 

Tom E 

[mikiek]

1 hour ago, Tom E said:

I hear ya about that balsa wood. I have some in my wood pile.

I know I've grabbed some when I can pinch it flat with my fingers.

 

Tom E 

[mikiek]

Hey Tom - One trick I read somewhere regarding garboard placement - it has worked well for me. A common question is where does the garboard stop at the bow? Actually in a lot of cases it stops before the bow. The one thing you are trying to do with the GB is provide a perfectly flat edge for the next strake to lay on. It is easy to place the GB too far forward and get it into the bow stem where it will want to curve upwards. Avoid that like the plague. If your GB has an upward bend to it, all subsequent strakes laid on it will too. In fact that bend seems to increase exponentially on each additional strake. All you can do to fix is to whittle down the front ends of the rest of the strakes.

 

The trick - and this will also show how well you did your rabbet - is to insert the GB into the rabbet with the front end about 1/3 back from the bow. Lay as  much of the GB edge into the rabbet as you can. Then slowly start sliding the GB forward keeping it in the rabbet. Watch the front end closely, eventually you will see it begin to lift up as it tries to follow the rabbet into the stem. STOP!  Back up and do it again. Find out exactly where the lifting begins. Your GB should be installed a hairs width before that. You'll probably have to put a rounded curve at the front bottom edge of the GB to get it to fit into the rabbet.

 

The late Mr. Sanborn taught me something about the ships rabbet that I never knew. Lay a plank along the keel about with the bottom edge about 3/16" up. Now try to press the plank up against the side of the hull from one end to the other. You'll see that the plank lays at several different angles. At the stern it's almost vertical pressed up against the deadwood of the stern. Amidship it may be contacting a frame and is bowed out somewhat. Your rabbet should be cut to receive the edge of that plank. This means the angle of that rabbet notch is going to change from bow to stern just as the angle of the plank does. It isn't easy to do but the closer you get to that the better your GB will fit.

 

More than you ever needed to know.

[Tom E]

Mike, 

Is it wise to follow the plans and use a stealer running from bulkheads Q thru M?

Or just one plank running the length to that transition spot you mentioned? "Where it begins to lift up"

 

Tom E

[Tom E]

A nice quiet Sunday. Most was spent in the Shipyard.

 

 

I started drilling the holes for the Futtock Shrouds.

Below is my second attempt. Not bad, some flaking of the wood.

I'll still be putting a brass strip on the edge.

One for structural rigidity, it makes sense.

Second, to match the first attempt.

 

Below is the first attempt, after much coaxing and TLC.

Looks like the dog grabbed it off the table, chewed on it, and brought it back!

Luckily, with that brass strap, it should be structurally sound for the shrouds.....I hope.  

 

Fore mast received it's first coat of Buff.

Very light coat. Will strength it up after I get a first coat of black at the top/square area. 

 

Mike, 

I took your idea about a build board for the masts and what not. Looked around the place to see what I had kicking around.

I had bought the Fair-A-Frame jig a while back. Useless for the most part, but I kept the good pieces of wood.

I had used the below strip of wood to hold the keel while setting up the frames. 

 

This thing is more useful for many other things than it was as a fair-a-frame jig!

 

As the other parts are built, they'll just line up behind them. 

 

With some supports, the masts slide right in.

I also have blocks of wood in the middle channel for more stability.

First coat of black for the Fore Mast.

This will dry for a few days before I touch it again. Work will do that!!!!!

Tom E 

 

 

[mikiek]

Hey Tom - No stealers is your goal. Don't do one just because the plans say. Do one when you need one. You may need more, you may need less. Where that ends up being depends on how you finish planking. If you do B,C,D you probably won't know that you need one until you get to D.

 

The garboard would best be done with one stick - wider than the rest of your strakes. Some people, including me, used the same width for the strake right above it. Of course that will wreak havoc with your bands as you have monkeyed with the size.

 

Not to worry. Plank B completely. Do the first few strakes of C. Then turn the remainder into 1 band. You may want to recalculate strake widths at that point. Just what the dividers were made for.

[mikiek]

Master Sanborn told me another trick and I think you are almost at that point. It's a little hard to describe. Where the stern post runs up and "meets" the transom forms kind of a joint. From the keel up to this joint is a lot of deadwood. Then you reach that last bulkhead piece (the transom) which sort of flares out if you are looking at things from the rear.

 

Your strake widths should be sized so that the edge of the last strake on that deadwood fits right up against that joint. Similarly, the planking over that bulkhead should be sized so that the edge of that last strake also fits right down to that joint. If that joint was 90 degrees it would be easier to picture, one leg being the deadwood the other being the bulkhead. You want the strakes from both sized so they fit into the corner. What you want to avoid is having a strake laying diagonally across the corner.

 

I'd post you a picture but my hull is all black and the camera doesn't see that joint very well. Let me know if that doesn't make sense.