US Brig Niagara by Tom E - Model Shipways - 1:64 Scale

Tom E · June 16, 2018

Thanks Darrell,

I was going to form it with 2 pieces of brass strip, instead of drilling a hole in the Bees.

One on top and the other underneath.

Lined up correctly, it should "appear" to go thru the Bees.

Will that be structurally sound or is it best to wrap one piece around the Bowsprit?

The more I think on this I'm leaning towards a 1 piece method.

Tom E

mikiek · June 17, 2018

Every time I take a photo of the bowsprit all the black parts just melt into each other

Tom E · June 19, 2018

Evening,

Time for an update, and its a big one. Well it is in my book.

I finally finished planking the hull!!!!

Only took 3 months :huh:

Its not so pretty, rather jagged looking.

Looks like they just raised it from the bottom of Misery Bay!

The sanding and wood filler will commence shortly!

I figure the burn marks from the plank bender and glue stains will clean up with sanding.

This was my first planked hull on a tall ship.

I learned a lot, and it shows that learning process! Ha!

I'm pretty confident future builds will be better.

I used little scraps inside the hull if a plank needed something to bite onto.

Worked really well.

The below photo shows some sanding done to the port side, none Starboard.

Should clean up nicely with sanding and filler.

I continued on the Bowsprit.

I shaped the Bees. I will drill small holes on either side to feed the Bobstay Wye Iron thru, no 2 piece method as I mentioned before.

Now onto the Deck!!!!!

Tom E

mikiek · June 19, 2018

Nice work Tom. Getting a huge task like that finished feels good doesn't it?

It's my personal preference but I'll throw it out there anyway. Use the filler sparingly. Don't strive for perfection. I think the surface looks better and more authentic with some imperfections. Remember filler will cover some evils but it also covers the plank edges, wood grain, etc. Resist the temptation to slather it over the whole hull and then sand it down. Instead just put it on in the spots that need it. Remember you will also be priming, painting and varnishing this guy. Those will do a little filling as well.

Tom E · June 25, 2018

Evening,

Time for an update.

It's a huge weight of my shoulders Mike, knowing that the planking is done.

It was probably the most intimidating part of the build so far.

But, I got it done with minimal blood shed.

I continued on with the Bowsprit.

I ended up drilling some holes in the Bee's to accept the Bobstay Wye Iron.

Wrapped it, shaped it, glued it, then clamped it. Let it sit for a while to firm up.

I may have been a bit robust forming the extra holes, but oh well.

Still a bit naked, needs chocks and a Jib Boom saddle.

That will be next.

Drilled a hole for the Bobstay.

Right after all this was done, I realized my brass part was upside down!

Had to break it down and re do the entire process.

Duh!!!!! :blink:

I went on and formed the Chocks and Jib Saddle.

Easy enough I suppose.

I glued some square pieces and will sand/carve them into shape.

Looking like a proper Bowsprit and Jib Boom!

Also started to build the Topmast tops for the Foremast.

Easy enough with the laser cut trestle trees.

The Crosstrees are placed for fit.

Should be good.

This entire area will be black.

Fragile little Crosstrees.

Lucky tho, never did break it. Thought for sure I would!!

Still have to drill holes for the Shrouds so there's still opportunity to snap it.

Tom E

mikiek · June 25, 2018

All those cross tree parts are better drilled before gluing. As a matter of fact, attaching blocks, eyebolts, etc. should all be done before gluing the top to the crosstrees. I really blew it with the sprit on the first try. The normal taper that we put on most spars (fatter at one end thinner on the other) doesn't apply completely on the sprit. The top side is flat. Like you, I got something upside down. I figured I'd be a smart guy and just rotate the sprit. Oops.

Did you make your spars from square sticks or did you use those from the kit?

Tom E · June 26, 2018

Mike,

All wood, so far, has come from the kit.

I've heard horror stories about warped wood.

So far, I'm not finding that with this kit.

Don't get me wrong, there is some, but I've been able to avoid using it.

Lucky I guess.

Tom E

mikiek · June 28, 2018

I found it interesting. I would have assumed the grain in a dowel would run from end to end, thus giving you fairly straight stick. However if you look closely - maybe with a magnifier - you can see the grain (if there is any) goes all over. Even a stick that appears straight today will likely warp down the road.

Go with what you got for this build but you might consider trying to make spars from square sticks sometime. I found it a good challenge, but at the same time some things - like cutting the octagons - can be easier.

Tom E · July 1, 2018

Evening,

Its a good night to be in the Shipyard.

Its hotter than heck outside and I have Central Air Conditioning!

As much as I complain about the colder months, Its heat and humidity that we have now that I truly hate.

I feel like a polar bear on the equator!!!!

Any who...….

The Red Sox and Yankees game is on...….Let me turn up the a/c and move along here. :dancetl6:

I finished the Bowsprit. With some final sanding and clean up it will be primed then painted black.

Mike,

After I read your last post, I checked my wood stock.

There's a grain thru the top of the bowsprit that runs pretty straight the whole length, but that was square stock.

The dowels aren't too bad, but they could be better.

I finally dove into the "yellow" paint needed for the hull.

I mixed and mixed and came up with a "Dijon mustard" like yellow.

Its the mix on the left on the below pic.

The pics make it look brighter, my shop lights brighten it up. In person its not so bad.

Its odd, but after I made my paint mix, I got hungry and made lunch.

I grilled up a few hot dogs and coated them with relish and Dijon mustard...…..connection?!?!?!?

Yet, I only thought of that after a few cold ones with those hot dogs!...…..connection?!?!?!?!?

I thought I may have made it too dark.

But the white primer underneath brightened it up just enough.

I'm happy with my mix.

I wrote the recipe down just in case, but I should have enough made for what I need.

I figure at least 2 coats, with plenty left over for touch ups.

Mind you, this is all hand done, as we can plainly see.

I don't have an airbrush right now, maybe next year when I buy a house and have a more permanent Shipyard.

Don't think my landlord would appreciate me airbrushing in the place!!!!

A trip to Michaels for new paint brushes yielded a possible base for Niagara.

In the store it was labeled as an "Inn Keepers Sign", in the wood section, for $8.99.

I figured If I don't use it for this build, I'll find a use for it down the road.

Should stain up easy enough.

I doubt I'll have an acrylic case around it.

No kids, no pets in the house help.....but that can change as needed.

These last 2 pics are the second coat to both the green and yellow that ended todays building.

Must be Fall in New England already...….I'm starting to see some color!

Tom E

JerseyCity Frankie · July 1, 2018

I was kidding myself for five minutes about a case for Niagara. That Bowsprit! Too long. I think a case would have to be the same size as one of the diagram sheets that came with the kit, 27”x39 x @18”. Too unwieldy for my apartment.

I agree the yellow color requires a lot of careful consideration to hit just the right note, so too does that “Buff” color of the caprail and masts. I wound up using “flesh” color. Congratulations on getting the exterior planking and some of the spar work done!

mikiek · July 2, 2018

13 hours ago, JerseyCity Frankie said:

I was kidding myself for five minutes about a case for Niagara. That Bowsprit! Too long. I think a case would have to be the same size as one of the diagram sheets that came with the kit, 27”x39 x @18”. Too unwieldy for my apartment.

I agree the yellow color requires a lot of careful consideration to hit just the right note, so too does that “Buff” color of the caprail and masts. I wound up using “flesh” color. Congratulations on getting the exterior planking and some of the spar work done!

Yupper - pretty big indeed. BUt she's as clean as the day I put her in there.

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Tom that paint jar concerns me. If you end up needing the paint 6-8 months from now for a last coat or touch or something it could very well be dried up. Seal that lid or look for a better storage jar. The cardboard gaskets don't last long in my experience. These work a lot better.

Tom E · July 9, 2018

Evening,

Hope everyone had a great 4th of July!

I have been busy with Niagara, but I've been centered around painting.

Making a big push to finish the green and red on the inside of the ship.

I want all that done before I start the deck. Hopefully limit any paint getting on the deck. The deck will be stained instead.

Since Its all hand painted, its taking a bit.

A while back I had bought a can of Weathered Oak stain for the Deck.

But, I went back to Home depot trying to get a "Holy Trinity" of stain.....one dark stain, one med, and 1 light stain, and kinda go from there.

Below is what I ended up with.

I'm thinking the Early American stain instead of a light Weathered Oak, which was the original plan.

I'm sure something was drying, so Idle hands wanted to see where I am so far.

Never in my little head did I think I would get as far as I have.

There's a point where this skeleton of wood really starts to feel, and look, like a ship!

I think my Bowsprit came out well.

Pardon the Scotch tape, Its holding the Job Boom in place. The Flying Jib Boom is "in progress".

Nothing was glued, purely just having a little fun.

The Bowsprit will be painted all black.

First of many coats.

Tom E

Tom E · July 20, 2018

Evening,

Hope all is well.

I've been busy in the Shipyard, but slow.

I started putting the deck in.

I know it's kind of cheating, but I'm not going to stagger butts in the deck.

I'll just use single planks this time. I would probably screw it up! It would look horrible, I know it would.

On my next build I'll try it.

The only place I did cut planks was when forming around the mast holes.

There's some waviness to it, but some sanding will help.

Pretty straight tho!

I'll take that!

Below are the stains I have right now.

I'm pretty much committed to the Early American.

It's going pretty well.

Slowly but steady. This ship is getting filled in.

Wont have the frames to hold it with. I find myself holding the main rail instead. That's a disaster waiting to happen!!!

The painting is going well.

Being that its hand painted...….I'm constantly on "dot" patrol!

Tom E

6ohiocav · July 20, 2018

Great steady progress and everything looks great.

I would suggest you consider applying a sealer to the basswood decking before you stain. Basswood is very soft, and has inconsistent density, so that it tends to cause blotches when stain is applied. Applying a sealer will equalize the density and help with a finer finish. Just a suggestion.

mikiek · July 20, 2018

Tom - just my opinion but that early american looks pretty dark for a deck

Tigersteve · July 20, 2018

I agree with Mike on this one.

Steve

Tom E · July 21, 2018

I'm glad you mentioned it Mike.

I made those sample stains last weekend and have been looking at them all week.

Something was just bugging me about them, but couldn't see it.

Would a "Golden Oak" be to bright?

Darrell,

I have a fresh can of sealer.

I just wish when I made my stain samples I used it to see what It would look like.

Sounds like a good weekend project.

Tom E

johncole · July 21, 2018

Tom,

Nice build. I have this model in queue for when I'm feeling especially brave (and more skilled).

My unsolicited vote for the deck stain is weathered oak. It looks really good to my eyes.

John

Tom E · July 22, 2018

Evening,

Hope all is well.

Been a quiet day. Got the chores done early then headed into the Shipyard.

I had to make a trip to the town dump, and stopped at Home Depot afterwards.

With a side trip to the local diner for breakfast!!

I loaded up with 4 cans of lighter stains.

Below is with all planks well sanded and sealed.

I like the Golden Oak stain so far. Natural seems too bright.

The Ipswich pine is second choice.

The Colonial Maple is too orange for my taste.

Gratuitous boat shot.

The Deck grows.....plank by plank.

I'm also working on the Fore Top Mast.

Its finished and ready for primer.

Fragile things!

Don't wannna jinks myself, but, haven't broken one of the cross trees yet!

Its still early. <_<

Even managed to drill the holes for the Futtock shrouds without breaking it!

That's a milestone in my book!

Tom E

Jim Rogers · July 22, 2018

I used Yellow Cedar for my Syren deck so I like the Pine stain. IMO it looks more like a hollystoned deck.

Tom E · July 22, 2018

Jim,

I agree.

Think I'll make another sample with the Golden Oak and the Pine.

Instead of just 4 or 5 planks, each color will get a good sized test area.

Side note......

Maybe I miss Football, but this endeavor with the stains is like the NFL playoffs.

Start with 4, then 2 go head to head and winner takes all......in this case the winning stain.

Patriots start next week!!!

Tom E

mikiek · July 22, 2018

Hey Tom - with the basswood a lot of people use Golden Oak. With basswood I think it looks real nice. If you want it a little darker then apply 2-3 coats. Keep in mind that stains look and behave differently on different woods. My deck is boxwood and Golden Oak looked dreadful on that.

If you want it uniform then use a conditioner/sealer first. Personally I like the blotchiness. I think it adds a weathered look so most times I dont use the sealer.

The biggest source of blotches is glue so sand, sand, sand before you stain. As basswood has a tendancy to "shed" hit it last with some very fine sandpaper or steel wool to help remove flakes.

JesseLee · July 22, 2018

I like the Golden Oak or the Pine.

Jesse

Tom E · August 6, 2018

Evening,

Been a while since I updated.

Summer time fun.....it sure does keep a person away from there Shipyard!

All those hamburgers and hot dogs aren't gonna eat themselves.

Now is when all the local produce starts showing up.

Its corn season! Local tomatoes, zucchini, summer squash and melons are everywhere!

Its a good time of the year for eating!

Berry season didn't do too well this year. It was too warm and dry.

We have a winner on the deck stain.

Golden Oak it is.

Dark, yet bright with a weathered look to it.

Now to just finish the deck!

Its been one plank at a time.

Cut, shape, glue.....rinse and repeat.

Slowly and methodically.

Below are the current state of affairs.

I keep putting together what I have so far on the Niagara.

Its a pretty cool ship model!

Its big, and I'm no where near finished.

The Fore Topmast has a few coats of Black since this pic was taken.

I'm getting to a point where I wanna check a few guns on deck to check clearance in the gun ports.

A few more deck planks and I can check.

I'll post those photos later.

Tom E

GrandpaPhil · August 6, 2018

Coming along nicely!

Jim Rogers · August 6, 2018

On 7/1/2018 at 6:07 PM, mikiek said:

Yupper - pretty big indeed. BUt she's as clean as the day I put her in there.

Tom that paint jar concerns me. If you end up needing the paint 6-8 months from now for a last coat or touch or something it could very well be dried up. Seal that lid or look for a better storage jar. The cardboard gaskets don't last long in my experience. These work a lot better.

Get some Bloxygen. Prevents dryout.

mikiek · August 7, 2018

Ya think she's big now? One thing to think about - as you put masts and especially bow spars in place it gets incredibly hard to turn the boat around on your bench without breaking something. Drill holes for each section of each mast (main, top, top gallant, t.g.royal) for each mast and bow spars.

A 1"x6"x18" board with holes drilled in it is great for working with the individual spars and also good for storage when you want that stuff out of the way. If it hasn't been said already rig these spars individually before assembling a mast. I found that I could hang about 80% of the rigging before assembly & installation. The big trick is guesstimating how long some of the ropes should be. Measure, measure again and then add about 15-20%.

Warning - you will end up with a huge bowl of spaghetti. This can be mitigated somewhat by taking logical groups of ropes (for instance the t.g.royal port side shrouds) coiling them and then wrap with a piece of masking tape. They still dangle around but they shouldn't get tangled that way.