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USS Constitution by LASVcard - Revell - 1:96 - PLASTIC - First build, here we go.


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Got the kit for Christmas, convinced my wife to let me into it early. Been going on it for about a week now. Kinda crazy all the additional little purchases you need to make to aid in the build.

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This image is from a few days ago. I had seen different recommendations on how to paint (I'm REALLY new to this) as far as priming, thinning, enamel vs acrylic. I decided to go with enamel, no priming or thinning so that I wouldn't have to paint the whole hull black, but I'm regretting that a little now and I'll probably have to go back through and paint all the black to get rid of the little mistakes I made with the white. I taped off the waterline to get a nice clean line, but there was some seepage in places, more drastic in others as well... I cleaned that by taking a Q-tip soaked in thinner and rubbed it off, same as I did with the white, which you can tell it kinda left smears, a few more wipes with a clean Q-tip and it mostly went away. You also can't really tell in the picture, but there are obvious brushstrokes in the copper plating below the waterline and I don't really know how to get rid of them. I'm thinking I just need to paint another coat with some thinned paint.

From here on out, I'm going to be priming any large part that I need to paint (decks, mast, etc.), and thinning at a paint to thinner ratio of 15:1.

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

 

-Galen

Edited by LASVcard
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Hi Galen,

 

If your worried about brush strokes you could try using a foam brush. I had issues with the white as the black tends to bleed through so I just used a lot of white. I mostly used Acrylic on mine. Tip though I would paint the inside before getting to far into the deck going in. I forgot to do that on mine. After copper painting I had to varnish or else the paint on mine kept rubbing off.

Tim

Current builds: San Fran II AL, Santa Maria AL

Finished Builds: Sharpie Shooner Midwest

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Small updates. I decided to try it acrylic paint, I am much happier with how easy it is to work with compared to enamel. 

 

Mostly just been painting the last couple days, lots done today during the college football playoffs (:( too bad Sooners...). I glued the 33 long guns together, painted the gun deck sections, attempted a dry brush to help the grain stand out, not too happy with the outcome, will likely try again. Details on the hull painted, touched up, bulwarks painted a dark green. Painted the gun port doors white, the inside red. I was wanting to drill a hole in the middle of each and cut them in half like shown on the box, but then I realized there are three circular flashing marks on the backs, and they would show... But the red is a nice touch anyway. I also started painting the stern details, no picture, because it looks horrific right now... 

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Edited by LASVcard
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G'day Galen. One tip when painting - always (when possible) paint the lighter colours first followed by the darker ones. You won't have the trouble of using multiple coats to cover the previous colour. Another tip for masking - Tamiya Masking Tape is probably the best you can buy. It's edges sit really tight and you don't get any bleeding under it, unlike "normal" masking tapes. It comes in a large variety of widths.

 

I agree with your finding about Acrylic versus Enamel - I much prefer the Acrylic. The best I've found to date (and I don't paint much, hate it in fact) is a brand called "Lifecolor" - seems like hundreds of colours and it covers really well. It doesn't dry too quickly either, so you can get a nice even coating.

 

:cheers:  Danny

Cheers, Danny

________________________________________________________________________________
Current Build :    Forced Retirement from Modelling due to Health Issues

Build Logs :   Norfolk Sloop  HMS Vulture - (TFFM)  HMS Vulture Cross-section  18 foot Cutter    Concord Stagecoach   18th Century Longboat in a BOTTLE 

CARD Model Build Logs :   Mosel   Sydney Opera House (Schreiber-Bogen)   WWII Mk. IX Spitfire (Halinski)  Rolls Royce Merlin Engine  Cape Byron Lighthouse (HMV)       Stug 40 (Halinski)    Yamaha MT-01   Yamaha YA-1  HMS Hood (Halinski)  Bismarck (GPM)  IJN Amatsukaze 1940 Destroyer (Halinski)   HMVS Cerberus   Mi24D Hind (Halinski)  Bulgar Steam Locomotive - (ModelikTanker and Beer Wagons (Modelik)  Flat Bed Wagon (Modelik)  Peterbuilt Semi Trailer  Fender Guitar  

Restorations for Others :  King of the Mississippi  HMS Victory
Gallery : Norfolk Sloop,   HMAT Supply,   HMS Bounty,   HMS Victory,   Charles W. Morgan,   18' Cutter for HMS Vulture,   HMS Vulture,  HMS Vulture Cross-section,             18th Century Longboat in a Bottle 

Other Previous Builds : Le Mirage, Norske Love, King of the Mississippi

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Thanks Dan, I'll look into the Tamiya tape, I've seen other good things about it. As for now, I've been able to get a much cleaner line panting by hand, with little mistakes easily cleaned up on the spot. 

I've been admiring your Bismarck build, very impressive stuff!

Edited by LASVcard
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A question that just occurred to me to ask.

As I was going over the parts when I opened the kit, I noticed that some of the eye bolts didn't cast correctly. Is this something that Revell would replace if i sent them an email?

I've seen that many people recommend replacing them with hand made wire ones, and I'm thinking of maybe just doing that. If I were, what diameter of wire should I use?

Thanks in advance!

-Galen

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Little update,

 

I've mostly been working on the decks, getting the rudder installed, painting gun ports, etc. 

 

Also, I'm getting ahead of myself...but I've been doing this lately.

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I've got a move coming up (August) and need a stand at the new place for a 55gal aquarium I have. Figured I could kill two birds with one stone...

Total dimensions are 19" W x 48.5" L x 41" H

The front glass is 38.5" W x 30" H

I'd like to put some lights in the top, and a mirror as the back, add some nice trim and a good dark stain. Some Outlets in the top for the aquarium needs, and a switch on the back to control the case lights would be a nice touch too.

Hopefully the model of the Constitution I found was to scale. It looks like it might be.

 

-Galen

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I've been trying to follow Andymech's build log as close as I can, because it a a beautiful build, unfortunately he is a much better painter than I.

This is my gun deck. Just a plain tan. Wish I could do better, but I'm alright with that, it will hardly be seen anyway...I think I might try planking the spar deck :unsure:

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Next, gluing the gun port doors! Andymech's log shows using pencils and feathering index cards in to hold them flush with the top of the opening. I found that the further I progressed down the deck, the pencils started dropping. So instead I took a stack and placed it flat on the deck, kept them firmly in place for a longer run than the other method.

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Tying the ropes, needle threader is my friend (some touch-up to do on the paint there...)

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-Til next time

Galen

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