G Class Destroyer by cog - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/350 - PLASTIC - from Tribal Class kit

[Canute]

Okey-dokey.

[cog]

Do me a favour, count the posts which are related to this build, and subtrack them from the total postings on this build ... I don't mind some fun ... livens things up, but I start to wonder who's build this is

[Old Collingwood]

Mate,  have you thought of also doing a K class destroyer like HMS Kelly   aka from the film    -   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/In_Which_We_Serve

 

OC.

[cog]

If I'm not mistaken, I should receive one presently ... I might make the whole UK destroyer fleet if I don't watch meself! I know there is a Dutch destroyer amongst the lot, just need to find it, and get a fitting kit to build it

[RGL]

You have other responsibilities young man. Big Japanese boat perhaps? 

[cog]

1 hour ago, RGL said:

You have other responsibilities young man. Big Japanese boat perhaps? 

 

[RGL]

What do you call it when a computer locks up? 

[cog]

bloody annoying

[Jack12477]

Blue screen of death ?

[cog]

It depends how it locks up ...

it doesn't respond to anything anymore (not even Ctrl + Alt + Del)

you get a blue screen (of death)

...

 

is it a pc/laptop or a flimsy tablet ... options, options, options

[Jack12477]

When that happens, press and hold the power on/ off button until it powers down, wait a minute or two amd power back on.

[RGL]

I was going to say your IJN build......

[Jack12477]

4 minutes ago, RGL said:

I was going to say your IJN build......

  Did not see that one coming ! 

[cog]

There is a distinct difference between a PC and and a model ship, but as digibeet - what you call an illiterate - you probably wouldn't know

[cog]

Tried my hand at the hull, airbrush anti-fouling... mixture Vallejo Air hull red 15 drops, white 1 drop, 10 drops of thinner, used for the hull 75 hull red (calculate the rest yerself lads)

 

Cut the bridge's planking to size ... sweaty work...

[Canute]

Carl, did you cut individual strips or is it a piece of scribed wood or plastic? Nicely done, either way. Did you pre-shade the hull?

[cog]

Ha, no way, Ken. That's a piece of wooden deck from Musashi. As you can see on the grey part, I preshaded very lightly. Might have given a pass less of the red ... Next the water line and the uper hull. Something to look forward to for tomorrow

[Canute]

That's what the Tamiya masking tape is for. Helps prevent messing up paint jobs.

[cog]

Never knew it was for that, thought you needed it to stick the decals on   I use painter's masking tape a lot cause it's wider and cheaper, the blue one. I let this dry unil tomorrow before I mask it

[Old Collingwood]

The red anti fouling has come out real nice mate.

 

OC.

[RGL]

Nice deep red! 

 

Be careful using normal masking take as it will lift at the edges or be very ragged. The Tamiya tape really is the goods for it. 

Edited July 16, 2018 by RGL

[Canute]

I use both tapes, although I try to cut the blue painter's tape with a straight edge to make sure the edges are sharp. Also stick it on my pant leg to reduce the stickiness of the blue tape.

[popeye the sailor]

really great progress so far Carl

[Piet]

Nice work Carl.

 

Cheers,

[cog]

Gents, thanks for the likes and the comments.

 

Ken, I read somewhere that a bloke stuck the tape to his forehead to make it less sticky ... interesting, as it would mean you are adding grease to the part below the masking tape. Not  something you would be looking for whilst painting a model ...

[Canute]

Hmm, another technique. I think I like the pant leg method, a bit of dust/dirt versus grease. Any grease/oils are anathema for our paints sticking properly.

[RGL]

Never seen this before, interesting technique. Would not use skin, that’s why I use acetone on all large pieces of PE now to help the primer stick, acrylics just won’t stick. 

Edited July 17, 2018 by RGL

[cog]

Acrylics don't adhere to PE, whatever you try to clean it. The only options are: 1. Use a primer which sticks to it, or etches into the surface, or 2. use an ageing agent like blacken-it. However, even the latter isn't 100% proof, if you dare, the most certain way is an etching primer. Since PE can be rather thin, you do run a risk

[Jack12477]

What primer brand do you find works best?  Testors ? Tamiya ? or ??????

Edited July 17, 2018 by Jack12477

[cog]

On PE, Tamiya, vallejo doesn't stick, at least their airbrushable primer.

 

I've bought a rattle can primer from vallejo, which I have tot try. Since I do have quite a stack of PE leftovers, I'll be trying it on some of that. Let you know how that will turn out. I used the flat and gloss rattle cans from them, and those worked fine. A little getting used to in the beginning, as you do not see the quantity very well, so better a pass less than a pass to many I would suggest. You can always add another layer if needs be. I hope it will be as good as Tamiya. Tamiya is rather expensive here in Europe due to import duties, and transport. Vallejo is Spanish so that gives them a fair advantage